DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[Necsones]

almost finished with my stand, just wanting to know if this should be good to hold up 180 gallon. bottom rails and legs are 2x4's top rail is 2x8. I went a lil over kill and went heavy with 3/4" plywood all around. just have to put the sides and front on. So, should this stand hold? lol

 

[uncleof6]

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[uncleof6]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14810875#post14810875 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Necsones
almost finished with my stand, just wanting to know if this should be good to hold up 180 gallon. bottom rails and legs are 2x4's top rail is 2x8. I went a lil over kill and went heavy with 3/4" plywood all around. just have to put the sides and front on. So, should this stand hold? lol

Yes.

 

[uncleof6]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14796413#post14796413 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BodiBuilt
I thought this thread would be a good place to ask, how much of a span can safely be achieved using dual 2x6 side-by-side supported by a 4x4? The reason I ask is I have built my own stand to support a 280g 72x30x30 and I made an unobstructed opening in the front that spans 54.5" for easy sump installation/access. Is that going to be okay?
Thanks for your advise - Dave

A glass rimmed tank, only requires support at the four corners, this is per Aqueon/AGA. in other words, only the four corners are load bearing. I would assume w/your stand, the 4 x 4s. There is nothing wrong with "overkill," and I think you have achieved that. I could put up an argument on the advisability of using 4 X 4's as support, as they twist, tweak, crack, split with time, and 2-- 2 x 4s used to accomplish the same thing. For insurance, a center support on the span added after the sump is in place. With an acrylic tank, or non-rimmed glass, all bets are off. FWIW.

Jim

 

[yankee26th]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14812135#post14812135 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by uncleof6
A glass rimmed tank, only requires support at the four corners, this is per Aqueon/AGA. in other words, only the four corners are load bearing. I would assume w/your stand, the 4 x 4s. There is nothing wrong with "overkill," and I think you have achieved that. I could put up an argument on the advisability of using 4 X 4's as support, as they twist, tweak, crack, split with time, and 2-- 2 x 4s used to accomplish the same thing. For insurance, a center support on the span added after the sump is in place. With an acrylic tank, or non-rimmed glass, all bets are off. FWIW.

Jim

Hello Jim ---
I'm just curious. Would you know why sytrofoam should not be used underneath a glass rimmed tank?

Thank you ---
Chris

 

[uncleof6]

The info is that it CAN cause stress on the bottom panel and cause it to fail. One tank design, (CRS or senility as to brand) there is a brace on the bottom front to back... the foam will cause the bottom panel to fail. When using foam on a rimmed tank, it may be ok for just the rim portion, but honestly why?(unless recommended by the builder as in the case of GlassReef's) Foam is used on acrylic and rimless glass to relieve point stress from irregularities, not to level an out of wack stand, or to fill large dips. Why foam has made the cross to rimmed glass tanks is a mystery to me, as only the edge of the tank requires support, and of that, the four corners most importantly.

A stand, for a rimmed glass tank, does not even require a top, only a rim at the top of the stand. So the whole debate is moot. You gotta build the stand the right way--true, plumb and level. With some methods of stand building this is harder to accomplish than with others.


Jim

 

[BodiBuilt]

I picked up my tank yesterday, and I was able to finish framing up my stand. It will still be sheeted top, bottom, back, and sides, and have one large removable door in the front... My main concern is the unobstructed opening in front which spand 54.5" across. I feel comfortable with my design, but I thought I should get some approval before I put nearly 3K lbs on it! (and yes, I reinforced my floor too) : )

Heres a few pics

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[uncleof6]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14813853#post14813853 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BodiBuilt
I picked up my tank yesterday, and I was able to finish framing up my stand. It will still be sheeted top, bottom, back, and sides, and have one large removable door in the front... My main concern is the unobstructed opening in front which spand 54.5" across. I feel comfortable with my design, but I thought I should get some approval before I put nearly 3K lbs on it! (and yes, I reinforced my floor too) : )

Heres a few pics

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Does the words M1 Abrams have meaning?

Jim

 

[BodiBuilt]

Thanks Jim!
And yes, it is rumored that my stand designs may actually be able to sustain the weight of military "tanks" as well... "Overkill" is my middle name. (better safe than sorry)
Heres a shot of my buddy Dan beside my new tank

 

[uncleant]

i made the stand in the summer and put a pic of it up then but now i finally have the tank all set up again so heres a quick pick from my phone
<a href="http://tinypic.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i41.tinypic.com/2ikzibd.jpg" border="0" alt="Image and video hosting by TinyPic"></a>

 

[salty321]

After following this thread for ideas and inspiration, I finally completed the stand for my new tank....

Built round a 2x4 framework...

Thanks to those who un-knowingly helped.

Cheers!

 

[Rhodes19]

Nicely done. Can not wait to see pics of your tank.

 

[Necsones]

Ventilation inside of stand? i wraped my stand with 3/4" plywood all around, but wondering if it will get really hot and humid in side on the stand. Should i drill holes in the back panel or this shouldnt be a problem? sump/fuge makeing about 40" x 20" x16"The front is going to have 2 about 2ft x 2ft doors.

 

[Scottn29]

good write up

 

[james3370]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14825531#post14825531 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Necsones
Ventilation inside of stand? i wraped my stand with 3/4" plywood all around, but wondering if it will get really hot and humid in side on the stand. Should i drill holes in the back panel or this shouldnt be a problem? sump/fuge makeing about 40" x 20" x16"The front is going to have 2 about 2ft x 2ft doors.

i considered putting one of the louvered AC return or vent covers on the back of my stand......like this:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=65902-33599-ABRGWH306&lpage=none

 

[Rhodes19]

Re: Inclosed stand

Re: Inclosed stand

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14770306#post14770306 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Rhodes19
I am looking at putting ¼” plywood on the back and side of my stand with doors on the front but am concerned about moisture build up inside the stand. Has anyone had that issue? If so, what is a good fix? Cut outs, fans? Thanks.

I decided to leave the back opened and only attached triangular pieces of plywood to the back 4 corners for stability.

 

[malawinovice]

2nd purple legs optional on 75 gallon?

2nd purple legs optional on 75 gallon?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14306804#post14306804 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RocketEngineer

You state the 2nd set of legs at each corner is optional.

Does that mean the corner is supported under the long front/back 2x4 and nothing under the short side? Will two 2 1/2 inch screws be enough to support short sides on 75 gallon?


Can I just defer the screws strips and glue the single leg on each corner?

I am going to use 1/4 oak on each side for front back sway, and then 1/4 plywood across the back. Front going to have 1/4 oak facing for 4" on front corner.


Thank you

 

[Rhodes19]

Re: 2nd purple legs optional on 75 gallon?

Re: 2nd purple legs optional on 75 gallon?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14872572#post14872572 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by malawinovice
You state the 2nd set of legs at each corner is optional.

Does that mean the corner is supported under the long front/back 2x4 and nothing under the short side? Will two 2 1/2 inch screws be enough to support short sides on 75 gallon?


Can I just defer the screws strips and glue the single leg on each corner?

I am going to use 1/4 oak on each side for front back sway, and then 1/4 plywood across the back. Front going to have 1/4 oak facing for 4" on front corner.


Thank you

Yes. It is my understanding that the 2x4 leg under the longer front 2xs are the main weight bearing legs and the 2x4 legs under the shorter side are optional. IMO, I would add the optional side legs because they stiffen the legs and offer more surface area to attach the skin to.

2 1/2 screws will probably be fine. Don't forget to counter sink them. I used 3" because I had them on hand.

You don't need to use the screw strip but if you are limited on tools or wood working technique, it is an easy way to make sure the legs stay put. I have a pocket hole jig and I used it to attach the legs and frames together. I glued and screwed all the joints.

Once you get started show some pictures of your progress. HTH.

Chris

 

[MVlk]

IMO, unless you have a very specific need to eliminate something, follow the plan exactly. There is a very reaonable amount of overkill built into it, but it worth doing for saftey, peace of mind etc.

 

[Necsones]

Finally finished my stand, and level is off by a hair.. want to get feed back from others on this. Should it be fine or should it be fixed? First level pic is lenght wise and second if width wise.