DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[james3370]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15397030#post15397030 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 1DeR9_3Hy
Hey guys, i went through the last 15 pages looking for someone who made a canopy...i didn't see much.

Anyone have some pics/descriptions of how to make an attractive canopy? Im using T5 retro's as an fyi.

http://garf.org/index.shtml

in the drop-down menus on the left side, near the bottom, there is a "diy pages" menu that has several useful links

 

[1DeR9_3Hy]

Thanks James, i found the calculater you were refering too. It makes a nice, plain canopy...but i am trying to match my stand.

What if i build that canopy, then trim it to match my stand....would that look rigged up or decent?

 

[james3370]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15401936#post15401936 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 1DeR9_3Hy
Thanks James, i found the calculater you were refering too. It makes a nice, plain canopy...but i am trying to match my stand.

What if i build that canopy, then trim it to match my stand....would that look rigged up or decent?

the majority of the pimped out stands/canopies people have done start as simple plywood skinned bases.....it's all in the trimming LOL

 

[dennisdeng2002]

How do you guys attach the plywood? Just wood glue I'm assuming?

 

[1DeR9_3Hy]

Im planning on brad nails and wood glue, followed by putty.

 

[finksmart]

Re: Re: stand for frag tank and 40 breeder

Re: Re: stand for frag tank and 40 breeder

Hey guys,

Looking to feedback to see if I should be concerned about the tank sitting on 1/2 inch of the 1.5" 2x4 top frame based on the diagram below. (the green part is plywood cover). Thanks.

 

[spllbnd2]

I attached the plywood with glue and brad nails.

 

[Suzukibusa06]

I got a question for you guys. I just bought a tank that is 96x24x48 which is almost 500 gallons. What size wood should I use using rocket engineers design above?

 

[1DeR9_3Hy]

Re: Re: Re: stand for frag tank and 40 breeder

Re: Re: Re: stand for frag tank and 40 breeder

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15421709#post15421709 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by finksmart
Hey guys,

Looking to feedback to see if I should be concerned about the tank sitting on 1/2 inch of the 1.5" 2x4 top frame based on the diagram below. (the green part is plywood cover). Thanks.

I dont think it would be a problem, but you better be damn certain it is actually touching 1/2" of the supports all the way around!

 

[1DeR9_3Hy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15422907#post15422907 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Suzukibusa06
I got a question for you guys. I just bought a tank that is 96x24x48 which is almost 500 gallons. What size wood should I use using rocket engineers design above?

I cant remember exactly what you should use, but if you go back to the first page in this thread he lays out all the requirements including 2x4, 2x6, 2x8 uses.

 

[1DeR9_3Hy]

I was finally able to find a kreg jig locally Friday, so i will be able to get the legs on it today at work.

After looking over many of the other stands here, i think i am only going to use the 1/4" oak ply on the back and two sides. I am thinking about using 1x4 or 1x5 oak around the front to make adding doors easier and i think that will give it a better appearance overall instead of thinner oak ply in the front.

If i assemble the stand today and its not perfectly square, whats an acceptable amount to be "off" and how can i correct it?

 

[Rhodes19]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15422907#post15422907 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Suzukibusa06
I got a question for you guys. I just bought a tank that is 96x24x48 which is almost 500 gallons. What size wood should I use using rocket engineers design above?

2x8 is recommended for larger tanks. I used 2x8s for my 180 build and included a center vertical leg for door attachment. Here is the link to the first page of this tread that gives a guideline for lumber use. HTH.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1169964&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

 

[Rhodes19]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15422958#post15422958 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 1DeR9_3Hy
I was finally able to find a kreg jig locally Friday, so i will be able to get the legs on it today at work.

After looking over many of the other stands here, i think i am only going to use the 1/4" oak ply on the back and two sides. I am thinking about using 1x4 or 1x5 oak around the front to make adding doors easier and i think that will give it a better appearance overall instead of thinner oak ply in the front.

If i assemble the stand today and its not perfectly square, whats an acceptable amount to be "off" and how can i correct it?

The Kreg jigs work great but the only caution I would give is that it is easy to strip the wood if you over tighten the screw. Its actually pretty easy to do with soft wood such as pine 2xs. I wound up using a screw driver to drive the screw in instead of a drill with bit. It gave me a better feel for when the screw was snug.

 

[agentgreen]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15423340#post15423340 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Rhodes19
The Kreg jigs work great but the only caution I would give is that it is easy to strip the wood if you over tighten the screw. Its actually pretty easy to do with soft wood such as pine 2xs. I wound up using a screw driver to drive the screw in instead of a drill with bit. It gave me a better feel for when the screw was snug.

I can attest to this. I built my 120G stand this weekend using another type of jig (same style as the Kreg) and when I put the screws in, the drill drove the screws straight through the wood into the other side. The jig doesn't allow much room for the screw to hold on to on 2x4's.

 

[finksmart]

Re: Re: Re: Re: stand for frag tank and 40 breeder

Re: Re: Re: Re: stand for frag tank and 40 breeder

Thanks for the reply. Yeah it will sit on the full 1.5" on the sides. Just the front and back are on 1/2".

Also the wood I got a couple of pieces have some cracks in them. Should I be worried?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15422942#post15422942 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 1DeR9_3Hy
I dont think it would be a problem, but you better be damn certain it is actually touching 1/2" of the supports all the way around!

 

[1DeR9_3Hy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15423461#post15423461 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by agentgreen
I can attest to this. I built my 120G stand this weekend using another type of jig (same style as the Kreg) and when I put the screws in, the drill drove the screws straight through the wood into the other side. The jig doesn't allow much room for the screw to hold on to on 2x4's.

I just finished drilling the 2x's and i must say it looks thin as well. I measured it, and the jig i bought at home depot leaves about 3/4" of wood to drive through + it makes a rather large pilot hole (larger than i have been making). I think a weak hand drill or like mentioned above a standard screw driver is the only way to do this.

Maybe i should make a point of mentioning here to either purchase a jig that allows depth adjustment or buying a jig that is taller than the ones sold at home depot. It just seems pretty thin...

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Perhaps you have all thought about this, but many drills/drivers have an adjustable clutch that will limit the torque applied to a screw, just for situations like this.

 

[agentgreen]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15423759#post15423759 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by der_wille_zur_macht
Perhaps you have all thought about this, but many drills/drivers have an adjustable clutch that will limit the torque applied to a screw, just for situations like this.

This is true, but given how little wood is left after the jig is used to secure the screw, I got scared and stopped using the jig altogether.

 

[Rhodes19]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15423759#post15423759 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by der_wille_zur_macht
Perhaps you have all thought about this, but many drills/drivers have an adjustable clutch that will limit the torque applied to a screw, just for situations like this.

I played with it and either it would not drive all the way or still over drive it.

 

[1DeR9_3Hy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15423759#post15423759 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by der_wille_zur_macht
Perhaps you have all thought about this, but many drills/drivers have an adjustable clutch that will limit the torque applied to a screw, just for situations like this.

Good point, i thought about it after the 2nd screw...but they were going in so easy with a hand tool i just did it that way.

I finished putting the stand together, now i can start on polishing it up. I tested it with a tank on it, and the tank is very level and sits flush all the way around...but the stand has a wobble to it. I picked up some 50 grit sanding belts to fix this problem in case it did arrise (which it did). But I am going to wait until i get the stand home and in position before i start sanding it level.

For now, i am scrolling through this thread looking for a good way to finish this stand off with oak trim and ply wood.