DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[PaPa_Johnny]

I have a question for the people with the answers . I have acquired a standard 240 that I am in the process of getting equipment to set up now. I am really considering constructing a new stand using Rocket Man's patterns. My question, if I use a 2 X 8 for the top board and inset uprights 1 foot from each end, will I be ok with a 6 foot opening in the front of the stand? All the stands are such a pain trying to get anything under neath I would like to make the opening as large as possible.

If I do go ahead and build this I also want to add cabinets on either side of the tank.
I'll be sure and post pics when I start this.

This thread is full of great ideas and help, thanks for keeping it going!

 

[TheFishMan65]

I think you would also need a support for the ends. Are you just trying to get a 6 foot opening in the front? I think you would be ok with 2x8, but I am not positive and don't know the formulas to use. Hopefully rocket will be along soon to answer.

The original post was using 2x8 for a 8 foot span, but had the ends supported. So I don't see why it should be a problem with what you are proposing.

 

[110galreef]

Papa....

I have a 55" free span on a 250g tank, w 2x8 top frame. (66x36 footprint.) I used 2x6 for the legs. I only have about 1/20" deflection or less if this helps.

I am not fully understanding your post, but hopefully this helps!

 

[canesfan44]

ok, heres what i came up with...hidden hinges and no knobs just spring loaded magnets on front and side doors

I still have a trim piece that will go around after the 210 gets set into place.
Art

Did you seal the wood on the inside of the stand?

 

[morrowss]

Did you seal the wood on the inside of the stand?

Yes i used the same sealer is used on the outside except i didnt stain the inside

 

[DML08]

what you guys doing for the overflow holes, should I use a hole saw or just cut a square out since I have 3 in a row in a center overflow??. thanks..

 

[canesfan44]

Yes i used the same sealer is used on the outside except i didnt stain the inside

Good, I figured you did, just wanted to make sure. I figured anyone that would build a stand that nice would remember to seal it.

 

[PaPa_Johnny]

Papa....

I have a 55" free span on a 250g tank, w 2x8 top frame. (66x36 footprint.) I used 2x6 for the legs. I only have about 1/20" deflection or less if this helps.

I am not fully understanding your post, but hopefully this helps!

Thanks 110 for the reply, if you look at the stand in morrows's post quoted just after yours there is and example of what I am trying to say. On the front of his stand he has 2 2x's moved in to hold up the top span. This is what I'm talking about and wondering if a 2x8 will take 72" under a 240. The thought is scary when you say it out loud but I imagine it is a non issue. This is all in the planning stages, just trying to gather information. Oh, I do have the tank and a pos petstore stand .'

Thanks!

Johnny

 

[110galreef]

Thanks 110 for the reply, if you look at the stand in morrows's post quoted just after yours there is and example of what I am trying to say. On the front of his stand he has 2 2x's moved in to hold up the top span. This is what I'm talking about and wondering if a 2x8 will take 72" under a 240. The thought is scary when you say it out loud but I imagine it is a non issue. This is all in the planning stages, just trying to gather information. Oh, I do have the tank and a pos petstore stand .'

Thanks!

Johnny

If I understand correct:

You will build the frame out of 2x8"s with the ends supported by say a 2x something" and also have another 2x4 (or such) in towards the middle on each side to make the open span only 72". Like this
_____<____72" span____>____(2x8) frame
|.....|............................|.....|
|.....|............................|.....|
|.....|............................|.....|
|.....|............................|.....|
---------BottomFrame-----------

That may be pushing it a tad much? Do you need the full 72" or can you go a bit less? Or could you go 2x10 for the frame?

Reason I say this is i have almost 1/20 deflection (much less than I thought when I built my stand) and my span is only 55". 72" is quite a bit more. However my footprint is a bit wider 36" as this will probably put a bit more weight on the span than your Longer and narrower footprint. Your tank Glass or acrylic? HOWEVER pg 1 & first post states a 2x8 should suffice??

 

[funnyguyMI]

ok, heres what i came up with...hidden hinges and no knobs just spring loaded magnets on front and side doors

I still have a trim piece that will go around after the 210 gets set into place.
Art

Awesome stand! Love the clean look. Do you have any pics of the progress from pic 1 to pic 2? I'm interested to see what you skinned it with, and how the trim fit in. Also, what are the doors made out of? Plywood with a veneer on the edges?

Thanks,
-Mike

 

[jeffreylam1132]

I love this thread. Lots of good info and ideas.

 

[Canoe]

max span 2.0x6.0 maple

max span 2.0x6.0 maple

I'm cutting my own pieces from dried 8/4 hard maple, so a 2x6 will be 2.0" actual x 6.0" actual, not 2x6 then dressed down.

If I've understood this stand design/method correctly, I should be fine with:

• 280G glass tank, 72" x 30" base
• corner supports will be two 2.0" x 6.0" maple verticals with 2 x 2 screw blocks
• 72" back is reduced to a 60" opening/span by the corner supports; 72" - 6" - 6" = 60"
• 60" back span is reduced to two 28" spans by a 2.0" x 4.0" vertical support in the middle; (60" - 4") / 2 = 28"
• after the corner support widths, the front span is reduced from 72" to a 60" span...

What I need to know, is:

• can I span that 60" front opening with a single 2.0" x 6.0" actual hard maple beam?
• if not, should I come in from the corners to make a ___" span, or can I double up the beam to keep the 60" front opening?

thanks!

 

[PaPa_Johnny]

If I understand correct:

You will build the frame out of 2x8"s with the ends supported by say a 2x something" and also have another 2x4 (or such) in towards the middle on each side to make the open span only 72". Like this
_____<____72" span____>____(2x8) frame
|.....|............................|.....|
|.....|............................|.....|
|.....|............................|.....|
|.....|............................|.....|
---------BottomFrame-----------

That may be pushing it a tad much? Do you need the full 72" or can you go a bit less? Or could you go 2x10 for the frame?

Reason I say this is i have almost 1/20 deflection (much less than I thought when I built my stand) and my span is only 55". 72" is quite a bit more. However my footprint is a bit wider 36" as this will probably put a bit more weight on the span than your Longer and narrower footprint. Your tank Glass or acrylic? HOWEVER pg 1 & first post states a 2x8 should suffice??

Glass, not sure of manufacturer. I probably can get by with lesser, Head room makes me want to avoid 2x10 if possible. I'm going to have either a 90 or 75 for the sump, still haven't gotten that far in the planning/decision stage yet. Thanks for the reply, maybe one of the train drivers (engineers ) will chime in with the most official answer.

Oh, almost forgot, yes that is exactly what I was talking about on insetting the 2 x's and leaving a 72" opening. Which is just plain scary even thinking about

 

[jasoncw]

1x Stand

1x Stand

Hi guys,

I hope someone can help with my build, even though it doesn't directly relate to the 2x method. I would like opinions based on experience and/or structural knowledge, rather than just guessing.

I plan to build a stand for my standard glass 120g (4x2x2) that looks similar to what many others have built using the 2x method (marino420td's tank shown):

However, I would like to build it using all 1x hardwood (maple or cherry) rather than 2x's. One great example I found was ChemE's 190g stand. It appears he built it around 4/2009, but he hasn't been on RC since 1/2010, so I can't ask how it is holding up unfortunately. Here is a thread on his stand:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=14896174#post14896174

TIA for any input!
Jason

 

[morrowss]

Awesome stand! Love the clean look. Do you have any pics of the progress from pic 1 to pic 2? I'm interested to see what you skinned it with, and how the trim fit in. Also, what are the doors made out of? Plywood with a veneer on the edges?

Thanks,
-Mike

Sorry Mike...i was in a hurry and didnt take more pics....my wife wanted to get her car in the garage so i only had a week working at night to get it done. I used gorilla glue in between all boards and screwed & glued an extra 2x4 across the bottom front. The top i glued and penny nailed 3x3/4" runner across and then glued and nailed the trim.All the other pieces were solid wood 3/4" planks cut to fit and make doors, home depot had then cut in 18" and 24" sections. The front doors i glued and clamped the routed trim on the edges. As for the corners they were glued with the smaller wood pieces and glued to the stand. It turned out to be pretty heavy when i got done but solid.

 

[RocketEngineer]

Canoe,
Because you are using maple vs pine, the boards are stiffer. Based on a 60" span, the 2" X 6" is plenty strong enough for supporting the tank without a center brace.

jasoncw,
The problem with that stand is that the rails are not directly supported by the legs. The rails are supported by the screws in shear which is something I personally feel is asking for trouble. Now, if you were to install the legs between the top and bottom rails and use pocket screws, you would have no problems with support. If you choose to go with the 1X maple or cherry, be sure to use clear pieces for the two rails. Being thinner, you will need to go with a 1X6 (.75 X 5.5 actual) to properly span the front and back. The rest can be 1X4.

RocketEngineer

 

[jasoncw]

jasoncw,
The problem with that stand is that the rails are not directly supported by the legs. The rails are supported by the screws in shear which is something I personally feel is asking for trouble. Now, if you were to install the legs between the top and bottom rails and use pocket screws, you would have no problems with support. If you choose to go with the 1X maple or cherry, be sure to use clear pieces for the two rails. Being thinner, you will need to go with a 1X6 (.75 X 5.5 actual) to properly span the front and back. The rest can be 1X4.

RocketEngineer

Thanks very much for the reply. Great point on the top rails, and thanks for the tips! Wonderful thread you started too!

Jason

 

[spllbnd2]

I remember marino420td's tank design. I based mine off of his as well as Will16's tank design too.

Here's the stand that I'm finishing up on for my 65H AGA.

 

[Canoe]

Canoe,
Because you are using maple vs pine, the boards are stiffer. Based on a 60" span, the 2" X 6" is plenty strong enough for supporting the tank without a center brace.
RocketEngineer

Thank you for your response!

The maple was chosen for stiffness, but I didn't know if it was enough.

 

[attaboy]

560g tank stand

560g tank stand

Mr. Engineer,

I'm looking to setup an in wall tank with the following dimensions:

72"w X 60"d X 30"h

I'm going to have a contractor build the stand, but am struggling to figure out what is required to support this type of weight. After reviewing the thread I don't see tanks with these dimensions. Also, the garage floor has a VERY slight slope so that adds a trick to the stand.

Would you please advise on the stand build?

Thanks!
Patrick