DIY Stands Template and Calculator

so your building the stand to the tank dimensions and then attaching a counter top to it.
get the back as close as you can to where the back of the tank will sit. if i remember correctly the last counter top i got from lowes had a piece in the front that hung down to where you couldent go right to the front edge of the bull nose. it kept you back about 1 to 2 inches
 
Kass you stated that your tank is actually a 1/4'' wider than the tank. The plastic rim is what hold the wait of the tank. I would put some 1/2 to 3/4'' trim on the side of the stand to support the wait. I would use nails there like finishing nails heavy duty type, nails bend screws break with sheer force.
 
the 1/8 on an inch on either side i dont think would matter too much but would look better with a trim glued and nailed
 
Well Im not really builing the stand to the tank dimensions because it has to fit inside the countertop so it would have to be 45 1/2 inches long by 23 1/2 inches wide.
I want the tank to sit next to the backsplash in the back so I dont know how we should build the frame?
I dont think that 1/4 inch should matter. I cant ad on to the countertop without it looking like crap.
The countertops only come in 4 ft or 6 ft or otherwise I would just go with a 5ft one.
Even if I get it custom made I have to pay for 6ft so Id rather just go with the 4ft one if I can. I was going to buy the 6ft one and cut it down but after I read about cutting it decided against that. You have to have a special blade and it isnt easy.
I already have the front boards for 4 ft so any bigger Id have to start over and maple wood isnt cheap.

Actually my hubby just said we dont have to use the 1 inch pieces on the bottom of the countertop so we can make the stand 48 inches and glue the side strips to the plywood.
The frame would have to be 47 inches and then I have 1/2 inch plywood for the sides.

kass
 
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What I really need to know is how to build the frame with 2x6's so its 48 inch by 24 inches and the tank is sitting about 4 inches from the front of the stand?
3/4 inch boards on front and 1/2 inch plywood on sides. The front boards will go over the plywood on the sides.

I dont really need trim on the sides cuz I bought the laminate side pieces.

kass
 
Take the stand with the space in the back and turn it around. You want boards under all sides of the tank, front or back doesn't really matter. As long as the tank is fully supported, the rest is just window dressing.
 
Ok thanks.
I just didnt know if there was an easier way to make it 24 inches rather than building it 18 and adding on the rest cuz I have to put 2 inches in the back and the other 4inches in the front of the 18 inch frame.
I didnt know if we could build it 24 inches and just add more boards in the center instead of the 1 board you have.

I also have another question. The countertop I bought is somewhat warped a little.
My hubby thinks it will just go straight once we put the tank on it. Do you think it will be ok? Its just going to sit on top the frame.
I could have just made it easier and built it all wood but I spill alot of water around my tank lol so thought the laminate would be alot better and I like the look better.

I bought a used 150g 16 years ago with a stand. Its old and heavy with like 3/4 inch glass. If you saw that stand you'd die lol its about 6 inches wider than the tank all the way around. I dont think any of it is sitting on the frame.
Its been set up 16 years and I never really thought about it till now reading this thread.
I keep picturing Deuce Bigalow where the tank crashed. It scares me now lol.

Thanks
kass
 
I think I figured it out where we only have to put an extra board on the front corners of this stand and let 2 inches extra in the back.

StandWithbackgap90g.jpg


kass
 
with the drawing above if you put the counter top on it and then the tank toward the back with a 4 inch lip toward the front you will be fine. there is also extra support coming from the thickness of the counter top and the lip it has on the back that is glued and screwed into place. plus the laminate glue from the formica holding everything together. i personally would trust it from the looks of things
 
Yes thanks everyone for helping .
I think we can just build it according to that drawing reversed pretty much. I thought the splashguard took some of the space in the back but it actually doesnt.
I set the countertop on my coffee table and we put the tank on it just to see the measurements. Its only off the sides a hair to which shouldnt matter.
The countertop does bow down in the middle though so Im gonna call around and see if I can find another one that isnt warped.

kass
 
Stand from design in post 2337 and rebuilt from 2350, without PT lumber.

Hopefully I will be faceing this/next week.

Thanks all for the help with this. I'll run a seperate thread, in a few weeks, for the finished product with the canopy.
 

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Hey guys,

I slightly modified the basic design and am wondering if you think it will be structurally sound. It will be built to 36" tall and will support only a 20 gallon quasi-cube (20x18x14), so we're not talking major tonnage here. My main concern (and reason for posting) is the fact that the tank will be "overhanging" the front uprights by 3". This design is intentional so that I have room for door hinges and can attach an "accessory panel" just inside the stand on the face of the uprights. I figured this "overhang" may not be a big deal as the tank is only 20G and as the overhang is only 3".

Please let me know your thoughts. I know a picture is worth a thousand words so I attached my SketchUp model below. Just FYI the majority of the stand will be built with 2x4s with the screw strips being 2x2s. It will be skinned with 3/4" birch in a minimalistic/modern design.
 

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Do you guys think I can get away with anything smaller than 2x4s in order to cut down on weight? After all, the tank is only 20 gallons and will be skinned with 3/4" birch plywood. Thanks.
 
For 20g, I would just use 3/4" plywood. As long as they are solid panels, pocket screw the edges will be fine. If you go the internal frame route, 1X3 would be the smallest I would go and I would use clear pine or poplar. Face that with the plywood and you will be good to go.

RocketEngineer
 
prolly a dumb blonde question but I dont understand the purple boards according to the calculator.
I want my frame 37 inches high. It says if your using 2x6's to take the heighth and deduct 9 inches. 2x6's are 5 1/2 inches each so wouldnt you deduct 11 inches?
So do I cut them 26 or 28 inches?

Thanks
kass
 
Thanks Rocket, you and you're thread have been a HUGE help throughout this process. I do plan on going the internal frame route, simple because I think it will be slightly easier to build, not to mention I already have my SketchUp plans made. I will indeed switch the design to 1x3s in order to save weight however. THANK YOU!
 
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