DIY Stands Template and Calculator

Is it ok to make the fram 1/2 " smaller all the way around so that when you put a 1/2" plywood top on it the 1/2" skin will then be flush? Then, all I have to do is use some decorative wood molding to hide the tank frame. In other words, the outside edge of the tank frame would not be sitting directly over top of the stand frame but it would be sitting on the plywood top. I think this would still work.

How big is the tank and how thick is the rim? This is probably ok, if you use a piece of plywood for the top.
 
I have been skinning my stand today. I have a bean animal overflow, how do you hide all the plumbing? And still make it accessible to the plumbing?
 
I am currently getting all the pieces together for a 120 gallon peninsula tank. I am to the phase where I'm going to start building the stand and I have some questions.

Here is my current design with the tank on the stand.

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The tank is 4' long and the stand is 5.5' long.

First question, can I move the middle braces to the left side of the stand, so I have no center support, or are they needed to transfer the load to the base of the stand? I plan to use a 2x6 for the top part of the stand.

I live in earthquake country and I'm concerned about bracing the stand against shear forces.
So my second question is do I need to brace the stand against shear forces? I would like to leave the stand as open in the front and on the right as I can.
 
The formula says you do not need the center brace, However if it does bow it will all be at the left end since the right end is supported (as pictured). I would put them in unless there is a real strong reason not to. I made my center leg removable. Just the stand and it was a piece of cake. Add tank and water a little tough. A year later I have to kind of jack it up to get it out. $0.02

Sorry don't know enough about earth quake forces. However I would think that screw strips (as in the original design) would be enough.
 
Would this template (rocketengineer's) work for a 4' cube tank weighing 4,130 pounds (480G)? I see the 300G tank above me, but I've never dealt with this kind of sized tank before and would like to make sure. :)
 
Would this template (rocketengineer's) work for a 4' cube tank weighing 4,130 pounds (480G)? I see the 300G tank above me, but I've never dealt with this kind of sized tank before and would like to make sure. :)

I'm not sure I'd scale this up to hold a 48" tall aquarium. Instead I would look toward a concrete stand or at least a cement block or brick stand. At 48" height, you will only have a stand about two feet all or less, and that is not much room for wood.
 
I'm not sure I'd scale this up to hold a 48" tall aquarium. Instead I would look toward a concrete stand or at least a cement block or brick stand. At 48" height, you will only have a stand about two feet all or less, and that is not much room for wood.

Hmm... you know of anywhere I could get info on building something like that? Also, what if I cut the tank down to 36inches high instead?
 
Hmm... you know of anywhere I could get info on building something like that? Also, what if I cut the tank down to 36inches high instead?

Slightly different question...How long are your arms? The reason I ask is you will be reaching into the tank and even with a 6" sand bend you are looking at 30" straight down. You may need scuba gear to retrieve something that falls to the bottom.

With reference to the stand, If you start getting too tall a tank, the corresponding stand height is short enough that access becomes a problem. However, if there isn't anything under the stand to access, you can build it more like a wall which means it can support a higher load. At the end of the day you will need to decide on the tank dimensions and accessibility before a stand design can be finalized.

RocketEngineer
 
Slightly different question...How long are your arms? The reason I ask is you will be reaching into the tank and even with a 6" sand bend you are looking at 30" straight down. You may need scuba gear to retrieve something that falls to the bottom.

With reference to the stand, If you start getting too tall a tank, the corresponding stand height is short enough that access becomes a problem. However, if there isn't anything under the stand to access, you can build it more like a wall which means it can support a higher load. At the end of the day you will need to decide on the tank dimensions and accessibility before a stand design can be finalized.

RocketEngineer

I have given some thought to that (And some groans) but like all spouse reefers, I am not alone on what *I'd* like to see apparently. If I were to cut down the tank to 30 inches (I think I can convince her of this), would that work better towards the stand template?

Thanks again y'all for helping me on this. It's just awesome that people put forth the energy and work to do this and help others!
 
I kind of like 42". It is deep enough to see some behaviors in cichlids that they don't normally have vertical space for, although not quite enough to fully exhibit them.

You don't need scuba to reach the bottom, although you may get your hair a little wet ending down into the tank.

The taller the tank, the more expensive the glass or acrylic it has to be made from. If a 3/4" thick plywood tank, 42" is the tallest practical. The wood bows too much and puts too much strain on the lowest seams.

A concrete tank with a glass or acrylic front is another possibility. In that case you dispense with the stand, build the tank from the ground up and put the viewing front a couple feet or so higher than the tank floor.
 
I kind of like 42". It is deep enough to see some behaviors in cichlids that they don't normally have vertical space for, although not quite enough to fully exhibit them.

You don't need scuba to reach the bottom, although you may get your hair a little wet ending down into the tank.

The taller the tank, the more expensive the glass or acrylic it has to be made from. If a 3/4" thick plywood tank, 42" is the tallest practical. The wood bows too much and puts too much strain on the lowest seams.

A concrete tank with a glass or acrylic front is another possibility. In that case you dispense with the stand, build the tank from the ground up and put the viewing front a couple feet or so higher than the tank floor.

I have a really good acrylic connection, which is why I am able to make a tank so long as it's within the 4'x8' sheet possibility. My wife would not be crazy about a concrete tank, unfortunately. :(
 
I have a really good acrylic connection, which is why I am able to make a tank so long as it's within the 4'x8' sheet possibility. My wife would not be crazy about a concrete tank, unfortunately. :(

I would side with your wife on that one. Concrete has price on its side and that's it.
 
I am downsizing tanks to a 36 x 24 x 20 aquarium. I would like to keep my 40 gallon sump. 36 x 18 x 17 tall.

So with that said. The sump has to be under the stand. Is there a design that shows how to build a stand bigger then the tank, but for the stand to still support it?
 
I am downsizing tanks to a 36 x 24 x 20 aquarium. I would like to keep my 40 gallon sump. 36 x 18 x 17 tall.

So with that said. The sump has to be under the stand. Is there a design that shows how to build a stand bigger then the tank, but for the stand to still support it?

Well this one is designed so that small tanks can be placed on it, with larger ones beneath if you wanted. Or vice versa, or all big tanks.

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_stand2.php

The rails are doubled, with a plywood sandwich in between and dropped so that a plywood shelf is well supported and prevents twisting. 3/4" plywood would be good if you have some bigger tanks.

Good luck with your downsize. I hate when that happens but sometimes it has to.
 
This is gorgeous. How did you make the little square trims?


Hey guys, just wanted to introduce myself, not sure if this is the right spot for that or not...But since I just finished a stand for my brother in law ( who got me into saltwater ) I thought I might show his stand off. His only requests were that it didn't have a middle divider, and that the stand covered up the plastic trim of the tank.

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I told myself as soon as I'm done building his stand, I'll start on my own 75gal tank. I'm just piecing the equipment together right now, but someday I'll have an up and running tank. Let me know what you guys think, or changes I should have/could have made.
 
What 2 x 4's should I use? Pressure treated or Premium Kiln Dried whitewood, standard/ better kiln dried dimensionial lumber?

You should NEVER use pressure treated wood around a saltwater setup because the pressure treatment uses copper based chemicals (that's why its slightly green). Instead, use kiln dried lumber of the highest quality you can afford and hand select for the straightest boards. Once the stand is built, paint the exposed wood to protect it. In my case, I used Kilz primer in two coats but others have used appliance enamel with good results.

RocketEngineer
 
You should NEVER use pressure treated wood around a saltwater setup because the pressure treatment uses copper based chemicals (that's why its slightly green). Instead, use kiln dried lumber of the highest quality you can afford and hand select for the straightest boards. Once the stand is built, paint the exposed wood to protect it. In my case, I used Kilz primer in two coats but others have used appliance enamel with good results.

RocketEngineer

So right! Treated wood is for exterior use only, and not around children or pet areas outside. Using it inside is illegal in many areas. Plus because the wood was soaked under pressure, it has a high moisture content and warps and bends more than kiln dried lumber.

Hand pick a few extra boards and stack the lumber in the area the stand will be used, if you can, for a few days or weeks.
 
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