DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[Trgiboney]

Stand in Diy Stands thread

Stand in Diy Stands thread

Here is a couple pics of the one I'm building, 48 x 18 x 32 All done with 3/4" and 1/4 Oak plywood

RJS8540 Nice stand, do you have a thread on this build and finish picks?

 

[RJS8540]

Trgiboney, Sorry I don't have a build thread. I have to laugh sometimes when I here people say you can't build a stand from plywood. That you have to make a 2 x 4 frame and then skin it.

 

[ScubaJ813]

Nice stand ScubaJ813 like you said you don't have to have a lot of tools to make a nice stand. When I built my first stand 30 years ago I had a electric drill, screw driver and a bar of soap ( so the screws would go in easier) I had the local hardware store pre HD cut all of my pieces to length. When I told them I was building a fish tank they were very helpful. It just takes a little more planning.

Jeeze! I thought I had it rough. Thank you though! My second stand ever. I was on a time crunch though, start to finish was 3 days of working, 1 day of drying. I am happy with my limited experience.

Trgiboney, Sorry I don't have a build thread. I have to laugh sometimes when I here people say you can't build a stand from plywood. That you have to make a 2 x 4 frame and then skin it.

This! I wish I did a little more research prior and found this out. Mine is way over built... at least knowing that gives me peace of mind though.

 

[turkey3]

Hi, I just built the base of my stand for a 40 breeder I picked up at $1 gallon sale. While gluing, the pieces set up a little too fast at its not really a perfect rectangle. I measured corner to corner and there is 5/8 inch difference. Do you think this would need to be redone or its good enough?

 

[supacharged21]

I have finished the frame on my stand, but want to get ideas to finish the outside. What thickness are you guys using for outer wood. I was thinking oak or birch. This cannot look "rigged" or my wife will not happy. Here is a pick to show you what I have done so far.

I have a miter saw and other tools also.

 

[Dseg]

I am looking at your diagram and wondering what is the bolded below. You can only go 7" high with a 2x4? I do not understand. I was going to do 2x6 to support my 180 gallon. Does this mean something else?


"(8) Purple - Uprights: Length varies:
- 2X4 Upper Rails: Length = H -7"
- 2X6 Upper Rails: Length = H-9"
- 2X8 Upper Rails: Length = H-10.75"
These 2X4s support the weight of the tank. The ones on the short sides of the stand provide a flat surface for attaching a plywood facing and while they do provide some strength, they are optional."

 

[supacharged21]

I am looking at your diagram and wondering what is the bolded below. You can only go 7" high with a 2x4? I do not understand. I was going to do 2x6 to support my 180 gallon. Does this mean something else?


"(8) Purple - Uprights: Length varies:
- 2X4 Upper Rails: Length = H -7"
- 2X6 Upper Rails: Length = H-9"
- 2X8 Upper Rails: Length = H-10.75"
These 2X4s support the weight of the tank. The ones on the short sides of the stand provide a flat surface for attaching a plywood facing and while they do provide some strength, they are optional."

I think it is total height -7 if you use 2x4. In your case the total height you want -9"
Sorry if this is not what you were confused on.

 

[Dseg]

Thank you.

Does anyone know if a 8x2 across a 72" span will hold on a 180 gallon tank WITHOUT the center brace? I have the tank now and its scary wondering it if will hold. The tank is 6x2x2. Would it help if I doubled-up on the 8x2s?

I want to be able to fit a big sump under it so I would need the front open. I tried to find a way to go from the side but the room just isn't there.

 

[Rhodophyta]

Thank you.

Does anyone know if a 8x2 across a 72" span will hold on a 180 gallon tank WITHOUT the center brace? I have the tank now and its scary wondering it if will hold. The tank is 6x2x2. Would it help if I doubled-up on the 8x2s?

I want to be able to fit a big sump under it so I would need the front open. I tried to find a way to go from the side but the room just isn't there.

I always double up the long spans, and put a full length strip of half inch plywood between them screwed and glued together with the plywood and inner 2by dropped down 3/4 inch so that a plywood shelf can drop in flush and prevent any wracking or horizontal twisting. I could stand up on the six foot span made of two 2 by 4's and the plywood sandwich, before bracing and shelf was added, and a laser level did not register any deflection. Of course I only weigh 275, but it was all concentrated at the center on one long span.

Here I am at a later phase in making five of these double tank or tank and sump stands. They would make a great skeleton for a cabinet style stand, and instead of being attached, if you want 100% access you could hang the cabinet front on with magnet latches and no hinges.

 

[RocketEngineer]

I always double up the long spans, and put a full length strip of half inch plywood between them screwed and glued together with the plywood and inner 2by dropped down 3/4 inch so that a plywood shelf can drop in flush and prevent any wracking or horizontal twisting. I could stand up on the six foot span made of two 2 by 4's and the plywood sandwich, before bracing and shelf was added, and a laser level did not register any deflection. Of course I only weigh 275, but it was all concentrated at the center on one long span.

Here I am at a later phase in making five of these double tank or tank and sump stands. They would make a great skeleton for a cabinet style stand, and instead of being attached, if you want 100% access you could hang the cabinet front on with magnet latches and no hinges.

One problem with the doubled rails idea is the drains from reef ready overflow boxes are often quite close to the plastic trim. If someone were to DIY the drains, both ideas work fine but for RR tanks, other considerations may take precedence.

With regards to Dseg's stand as it relates to your design, you used two 2X4 sandwich rails (each rail being two 2X4s and a 1/2" plywood spacer). In the picture your 275 pound weight is applied to the middle of a 72" span. Based on a 3.5" X 3.5" "beam" calculation, this point load deflects 0.086" (around 3/32"). On the other hand, a 180g tank weighs in at 1800 lbs distributed across the full 72" width and would sag 0.350" (slightly less than 3/8"). Personally, that is too much deflection for me. However, going to 2X6 sandwich rails just like your design would span the 72" without a center brace just fine. To do the same with my design would require a 2X8 top frame.

I will say that for smaller setups with owner drilled drains your 2X4 stand design is nice and ridged. In fact, as a stand without doors, making it from clear pine and coated with polyurethane it would look awesome. However, as the size increases the dimensions of the lumber needs to also increase to deal with the additional span and weight. Simple physics dictate that to keep the same deflection over increasing span and weight, the "beams" need to get bigger as well.

I will admit that my stand design is overkill. However, I'm an engineer by trade so being conservative is in my nature. I would rather have someone overbuild and be happy than have someone under build and end up with a leaking tank. Without knowing the particulars of each person's setup and their skills at woodworking, I can only provide advice based on the little information I have.

RocketEngineer

 

[Rhodophyta]

One problem with the doubled rails idea is the drains from reef ready overflow boxes are often quite close to the plastic trim. If someone were to DIY the drains, both ideas work fine but for RR tanks, other considerations may take precedence. RocketEngineer

I built these 1.5" bigger than the depth of the tank, so while the tank sits flush on the front, it only sits on the inner 2X4 on the back, with some tiny fraction of the weight distributed by the 3/4" plywood shelf. The stand is also 3" wider than the tank, and there is about an extra inch to allow for tank frames and the variation between different tank manufacturers so the span is 73" and the width of the tank is 76". Reef ready boxes should be fine, if not a deeper shelf could be designed for that model of aquarium.

With regards to Dseg's stand as it relates to your design, you used two 2X4 sandwich rails (each rail being two 2X4s and a 1/2" plywood spacer).
RocketEngineer

The plywood is a solid piece, extending 3/4" below the bottom of the front rail, and is a bit more structural than just a spacer. Spacers could be random scraps.

In the picture your 275 pound weight is applied to the middle of a 72" span. Based on a 3.5" X 3.5" "beam" calculation, this point load deflects 0.086" (around 3/32"). On the other hand, a 180g tank weighs in at 1800 lbs distributed across the full 72" width and would sag 0.350" (slightly less than 3/8"). Personally, that is too much deflection for me.
RocketEngineer

I don't have a picture of me standing on the center rail while it's being lit up with the laser level. The closest is this one several steps further in construction of me sitting near the end. However even 1/32" would have shown up and did not. A composite beam with a MDO waterproof plywood core would be stiffer than a solid 4X4. I had the luxury of being able to physically check deflection and not have to depend on a table of values.

Also there are two rails, front and back so only half the tank weight is supported by the front one. Your figures probably already take that into account. Corner braces are later added to the tank so the 73" span is significantly reduced before the tank is installed.

However, going to 2X6 sandwich rails just like your design would span the 72" without a center brace just fine. To do the same with my design would require a 2X8 top frame.
RocketEngineer

I would rather just make bigger corner braces, even have the plywood core extend down behind the corner brace, on with a cabinet front covering it extend it down as a triangle like a gable end inverted, leaving room for a sump to slide in and out.

I will say that for smaller setups with owner drilled drains your 2X4 stand design is nice and ridged. In fact, as a stand without doors, making it from clear pine and coated with polyurethane it would look awesome. However, as the size increases the dimensions of the lumber needs to also increase to deal with the additional span and weight. Simple physics dictate that to keep the same deflection over increasing span and weight, the "beams" need to get bigger as well.

I will admit that my stand design is overkill. However, I'm an engineer by trade so being conservative is in my nature. I would rather have someone overbuild and be happy than have someone under build and end up with a leaking tank. Without knowing the particulars of each person's setup and their skills at woodworking, I can only provide advice based on the little information I have.

RocketEngineer

I've built in the past and still see a lot of wood stand built for aquariums in the style of yours but without the automated values for calculating what dimensions to use. Some of them greatly exceed in the size and amount of wood you have calculated, but it's still common for them to accordion over because bracing is absent or pops free. :reading:Your plans help people put the lumber they bought where it does good.

I also see stands made of plywood only, just this last weekend at an aquarium show about 500 tanks set up that way on plywood stands that interlock like Christmas tree ornament compartmentalized boxes without any nails or screws. There are things I like about both designs, so framing lots of plywood with 2by stock appeals to me. I get the stability of the plywood and the "beef" of the 2by.

 

[Dseg]

Does anyone know were I there is a stand template calculator so I can make my stand on it? I want to make something like the original RE posted but mine is a little different and I want to make it on the computer.

 

[Jdev]

How thick of a sheet of plywood do I need to use for a 40B to build my stand?

 

[SNAKEMANVET]

I just got finished with my stand,when I placed the tank on top there is a 1/8'' maybe a little smaller gap thats about half the front and back.I was thinking about placeing either 1/4'' foam or rubber under the whole frame.Would this be a wise or stupid idea.

 

[reefermad619]

Thank you.

Does anyone know if a 8x2 across a 72" span will hold on a 180 gallon tank WITHOUT the center brace? I have the tank now and its scary wondering it if will hold. The tank is 6x2x2. Would it help if I doubled-up on the 8x2s?

I want to be able to fit a big sump under it so I would need the front open. I tried to find a way to go from the side but the room just isn't there.

This is a 6'x2'x2' 180. Made with 2x8 top frame. Single 2x8 not doubled up.

 

[nivram]

240 cube stand

240 cube stand

As I debate over whether to go steel, wood or even aluminum. A friend did a sketchup of a wood stand for me. It would be built out of 2x6. Please critique. If possible I would like to keep at least three sides open. Do you think this is possible?

 

[active]

aluminum is nice but will oxidize, steel is too raw looking for me anyway. wood has so many endless options. 3 sides open shouldent be a problem. i think the stands we build are way over built, i know the ones i have built are. look at the ones that are press board that come with tanks, the elcheepo ones.
cross bracing is important i think more then the thickness of the wood being used, making it level on all 4 corners is also very important.

 

[SquigglyFrog]

So, to prevent me from overthinking and redoing this.. Im upgrading from a 37g to a 90g.. The plan on the front page of this thread, unskinned.. all 2x4's.. should hold a 90g fine... right?

I did skin it, its just not with plywood.. more like 1/4" paneling.. I did think about skinning the back in 1/2" plywood, but it would be more a frame with a big square cut out to get plumbing and all into it..

I just want to make sure this is going to hold up before i get the tank and put it up there and fill it up..

Heres another question too.. this is an OLD tank... by OLD I mean its got 1/2" glass.. it has plastic trim as well, which is broken in some spots.. (it is fine, no leaks, etc.. just cosmetic on the trim) .. I believe the bottom glass was 3/4" or 1" thick when we looked.. Now, would it be better to set that directly onto the 2x4 frame, or put it on foam? or plywood top? or foam and top? or ? =D

Here's a shot of what I have so far..

*Edit.. really wondering if I should go grab a 2x4 or so and since its made all with 2x4's, just add some extra support right in the middle on the front and back...

 

[RocketEngineer]

As I debate over whether to go steel, wood or even aluminum. A friend did a sketchup of a wood stand for me. It would be built out of 2x6. Please critique. If possible I would like to keep at least three sides open. Do you think this is possible?

First question: What is the footprint of the 240g tank? This will allow folks to give you advice accordingly.

The legs and bottom frame can be 2X4, only the top needs to be adjusted according to the load.

Also, given the images, I don't think you will need center braces as the spans don't seem to be that long. A properly sized top frame would suffice.

So, to prevent me from overthinking and redoing this.. Im upgrading from a 37g to a 90g.. The plan on the front page of this thread, unskinned.. all 2x4's.. should hold a 90g fine... right?

I did skin it, its just not with plywood.. more like 1/4" paneling.. I did think about skinning the back in 1/2" plywood, but it would be more a frame with a big square cut out to get plumbing and all into it..

I just want to make sure this is going to hold up before i get the tank and put it up there and fill it up..

Heres another question too.. this is an OLD tank... by OLD I mean its got 1/2" glass.. it has plastic trim as well, which is broken in some spots.. (it is fine, no leaks, etc.. just cosmetic on the trim) .. I believe the bottom glass was 3/4" or 1" thick when we looked.. Now, would it be better to set that directly onto the 2x4 frame, or put it on foam? or plywood top? or foam and top? or ? =D

Here's a shot of what I have so far..

*Edit.. really wondering if I should go grab a 2x4 or so and since its made all with 2x4's, just add some extra support right in the middle on the front and back...

The original plan can hold a 90g tank without anything additional added. The plywood back with the single square opening is plenty.

If a tank has plastic trim it should either be placed onto the frame of the stand or a plywood top. Only when there is no plastic is foam used.

RocketEngineer

 

[nivram]

First question: What is the footprint of the 240g tank? This will allow folks to give you advice accordingly.

The legs and bottom frame can be 2X4, only the top needs to be adjusted according to the load.

Also, given the images, I don't think you will need center braces as the spans don't seem to be that long. A properly sized top frame would suffice.

RocketEngineer

Thanks for the quick response. It is a 4'x4'x2' glass tank.