DIY "Stream" Style Pump
- Thread starter thunt
- Start date
millzhouse... i like to help you with your problem. had some of the same in the start... I experimented with different solutions.. and found out that you can trim your motor... basically you place a plastic spacier in the bottom of the motor module. so that the magnet will be moved a little out... that makes a bigger magnetic field... i use it on all my dey Tunze( i now called it the jessen pump) when i got some bateryes for my camera i can place a picture.
I had the hardest time finding a titanium rod. At first I couldn't find one so I went with a stainless steel welding rod and it worked well. The only problem was with that much friction around it the rod began to rust within 2 weeks. Then I was fortunate enough to find a welding shop near my home that did a lot of titanium welding. They were nice enough to give me a titanium welding rod.
Otherwise, I couldn't find one unless I wanted to order a whole package of the welding rods for over a hundred bucks. Or there was a couple online places where I could have bought the rod for around 10 bucks.
Otherwise, I couldn't find one unless I wanted to order a whole package of the welding rods for over a hundred bucks. Or there was a couple online places where I could have bought the rod for around 10 bucks.
luceneck
In Memoriam
thx for the info
I have looked in so many places for this rod, and have heard the same thing as mentioned above about the steel rods. Now to find a prop. Local hobby stores don't carry any rc boat parts so I may have to broaden my search a bit. What size are peole using for props again? Blade tip to Blade tip?
I have looked in so many places for this rod, and have heard the same thing as mentioned above about the steel rods. Now to find a prop. Local hobby stores don't carry any rc boat parts so I may have to broaden my search a bit. What size are peole using for props again? Blade tip to Blade tip?
This might help. I'm 95% sure the stock MJ shafts are 316 S.S.
I've been working with metals for over 20 years and have used alot of stainless. Also mine has been running for months with no rust.
Here's what i'm using for my shafts:
http://www.smallparts.com/shoppingcart/shopping.cfm
Here's what I'm using for props:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXE472&P=0
The prop needs to be trimmed down to fit in the gaurd. I've had trouble locking the prop with the rest of the assembly so I also make a shaft sleeve that the prop presses onto. And I put a teflon washer behind the mag assembly to reduce friction for easier starts.
I've been working with metals for over 20 years and have used alot of stainless. Also mine has been running for months with no rust.
Here's what i'm using for my shafts:
http://www.smallparts.com/shoppingcart/shopping.cfm
Here's what I'm using for props:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXE472&P=0
The prop needs to be trimmed down to fit in the gaurd. I've had trouble locking the prop with the rest of the assembly so I also make a shaft sleeve that the prop presses onto. And I put a teflon washer behind the mag assembly to reduce friction for easier starts.
luceneck
In Memoriam
I wanted to find out if it was possible to make a new write up of the final parts and steps to creating this DIY project. There are a lot of pages and I know that the project was redone a few times.
What is the shaft length and diameter?
1/8" diameter? At what length?
Did you find that 2 props are better than 1 and at what length in the shaft was it used? Position for 1 and 2?
Rigid airline tubing was used to cover the rod at bot ends before and after prop and what was used to hold the tubing?
To make sure the shaft rotated in the correct direction a stopper was created and fitted on the end of the MJ but how much distance was the shaft allowed to move forward before it hit the stopper?
Wow that is a lot of questions so any help, or a copy paste would suffice.
Thanks and I hope to start this mod with the links provided above.
Titanium rods
http://www.smallparts.com/products/descriptions/zrtt.cfm
Prop
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXE472&P=0
What is the shaft length and diameter?
1/8" diameter? At what length?
Did you find that 2 props are better than 1 and at what length in the shaft was it used? Position for 1 and 2?
Rigid airline tubing was used to cover the rod at bot ends before and after prop and what was used to hold the tubing?
To make sure the shaft rotated in the correct direction a stopper was created and fitted on the end of the MJ but how much distance was the shaft allowed to move forward before it hit the stopper?
Wow that is a lot of questions so any help, or a copy paste would suffice.
Thanks and I hope to start this mod with the links provided above.
Titanium rods
http://www.smallparts.com/products/descriptions/zrtt.cfm
Prop
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXE472&P=0
Sorry about the bad links. They work when I try em????
Anyway... the 3/32 316 S.S. shaft Small Parts part # zrxx-015-36.
Dumas prop manufacturer # 3003, Tower Hobbies special stock # LXE472
(I've used several different Dumas props by pressing them on the shaft sleeve)
Niko5- there is many different S.S. alloys. the ones with more carbon rust easily. The ones with more nickel and chrome are much more resistant. Eventually, like in a year or two you might get a slight haze of rust on the shaft but it should wipe right off.
If you can find titanium, use that instead.
luceneck- I can tell you exactly how I do it, but I use my machine shop for most of the parts, so that won't help most people.
I think everyone makes their's slightly different. Also, I don't use a
stopper to reverse. if you leave out the rigid airline spacer after the assembly, the prop will pull itself out if going backwards then reseat and start the right way. Oh and I use one prop, but I know Nicko5 uses two.
Anyway... the 3/32 316 S.S. shaft Small Parts part # zrxx-015-36.
Dumas prop manufacturer # 3003, Tower Hobbies special stock # LXE472
(I've used several different Dumas props by pressing them on the shaft sleeve)
Niko5- there is many different S.S. alloys. the ones with more carbon rust easily. The ones with more nickel and chrome are much more resistant. Eventually, like in a year or two you might get a slight haze of rust on the shaft but it should wipe right off.
If you can find titanium, use that instead.
luceneck- I can tell you exactly how I do it, but I use my machine shop for most of the parts, so that won't help most people.
I think everyone makes their's slightly different. Also, I don't use a
stopper to reverse. if you leave out the rigid airline spacer after the assembly, the prop will pull itself out if going backwards then reseat and start the right way. Oh and I use one prop, but I know Nicko5 uses two.
luceneck- also go back to page 11 of this thread (not sure if everyones browser shows the same page count?) Look for ReefWerkes posts. I think you'll have the best luck with his examples and pics. He did a real nice job and used common wood working tools and hardware store materials.
Are these new designs lasting very long ??(more than a few months)
I thought the issue was that the motors were not designed to handle the extra torque from the propeller and therefore burned out early ??
I thought the issue was that the motors were not designed to handle the extra torque from the propeller and therefore burned out early ??
