Durso standpipe?

[uncleof6]

Do not use any "blue," or otherwise, "hot" glue. That stuff is absolute garbage. The only place that has any use is underground, where a leak does not destroy your house. If you already glued stuff with this junk, you are taking a risk.

Use regular, plain ordinary pvc cement. Medium or heavy body, does not matter, gray or clear, does not matter. Primer is not required.

There is no point in soaking your plumbing in vinegar. Where did that come from? (I try to get to the original source of misinformation.)

Once cured, pvc cement is non toxic. It only takes little while to setup. Generally, if you can no longer smell it, it is safe to use. Some jump the gun on this a bit, "with no ill effects," however most would not know an ill effect from this.

 

[IUfan]

Ahhhh crap! I've already glued it now. I just googled reef safe PVC cement and saw a few people use this stuff, was at Home Depot at the time and forgot to research it until I was in the PVC pipe aisle and the PVC cement shelf took my eye.

I've glued it now though, taking apart is not an option. If I silicones around the edges of each joint, could this potentially help safeguard against any leaks? Not a brilliant idea I know, but it's the only one ive got now.

The vinegar thing was my idea, I always see how people reccomend vinegar soaking of new hardware that's going into the tank, and wasn't sure if it applied to the pipes too?

Any practical reasons to not glue the 90's that are inside the overflow? Just dry fit them so you can take out if you need to clean?

 

[IUfan]

P.S. I did mean siliconing the Joint edges on the outside of the pipe fittings. Not on the inside.

 

[uncleof6]

Ahhhh crap! I've already glued it now. I just googled reef safe PVC cement and saw a few people use this stuff, was at Home Depot at the time and forgot to research it until I was in the PVC pipe aisle and the PVC cement shelf took my eye.

I've glued it now though, taking apart is not an option. If I silicones around the edges of each joint, could this potentially help safeguard against any leaks? Not a brilliant idea I know, but it's the only one ive got now.

Silicone will not seal pvc.

The vinegar thing was my idea, I always see how people recommend vinegar soaking of new hardware that's going into the tank, and wasn't sure if it applied to the pipes too?

Fair enough. I don't see any reasoning behind soaking anything, going into the tank, in vinegar. Some folks soak their rock in vinegar also: no point. If you need an acid (acetic acid) to get something out of whatever you are soaking, it will not come out in salt water, at a pH of ~ 8.x (above 7.0)

Any practical reasons to not glue the 90's that are inside the overflow? Just dry fit them so you can take out if you need to clean?

Elbows inside the overflow (elbow to bulkhead that is,) do not need to be glued. However, if there is any chance air can enter the line (other than intentionally through the air vent) the standpipes should be sealed. E.G. glued.

 

[IUfan]

Just thought I would post an update.

Got the overflows out today, absolute PIA but there now out and the tank looks so much bigger and better. Thank you to @Kameleon23 for his helpful guide that he posted to do this, you can find it here: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1934188

I followed the guide to a T and it worked out really well. I originally thought I was going to be able to use a razor blade to just slice the silicone off and pull the overflow out.... After seeing how the overflows are attached, I'm glad I only wasted 20 mins slicing away, those suckers are attached soooo well, its actually pretty crazy how well they are attached.

I ended up leaving the pipes the way they were with the RainRShine cement. I actually caulked around the edges of the joint on the outside of the pipes, might not help but it can't hurt. actually made the joint look much nicer haha which is silly as they wont be seen.

I then sprayed the back of the tank where the overflows where, and also sprayed the white Sch 40 pipe black to help make them look better.

On tuesday I will have the new Overflow and then I can plan out where I want to put the holes on the back. the overflow box is 48" wide, and I'm thinking of offsetting the box 6" to the left, so I can make the pipes go straight down to the sump, rather than having the pipes have to go on a journey across the tank to the sump.

 

[IUfan]

Started drilling the back of the tank today.

Wow, very stressful! Was so worried the entire time.

Attached a few images. So far I've only drilled one hole, it took around 30 minutes, I have to ask, Is that how long its meant to take? It seemed like a long time, I wasn't sure if I was putting too much or not enough weight on the drill and whether I was running enough or not enough speed.

Just wondered if anyone had any input on this. I suppose it is .5" thick glass, so maybe thats just how long it takes?

 

[IUfan]

images

 

[IUfan]

So last night it took a bit over 30minutes to drill a hole, today it took me close to 90 minutes.

I still have 2 more holes to cut, is this holesaw blunt, do I need to get a new one to finish the next 2 holes.

Just worried that the next one will take 3 hours! and then the next one 6 hours.

The cut looks fine. just took forever.

Don't want to have to wait for a new bit to come in which will be wednesday, and I will have to wait until next week to finish it.

Thoughts?

 

[uncleof6]

Hole cutting in glass is not a fast process, unless you are using a water jet. 90 minutes is a bit much. Less expensive hole saws break down rather quickly.......

 

[IUfan]

Yeah, I think its probably ****ed, home depot and lowes dont carry diamond coated hole saws, will carbide do the trick? I'm guessing not.

Is there anywhere else I can try that might carry diamond coated hole saws? Thanks for the help

 

[uncleof6]

Glass fabrication shop/supplier may have them.

 

[IUfan]

Got the last hole drilled tonight, I looked everywhere for a diamond coated hole saw in my area but couldn't find one, so just stuck with the one I had and struggled on.

It was really strange, the 1st hole took 35m, 2nd took 90m, 3rd took 45m, and 4th took 80m, no idea why the 3rd hole only took 45m, I actually ran a timer to keep track of where I was at, that definitely helped keep me sane on the 3rd n 4th cut.

When I pulled the masking tape off it pulled some of the black paint off, so I had to put the bulkeads on loosely and tape them off to re-spray those areas on the back. The new paint doesn't look pretty but I dont think it will matter.

Get the overflow tomorrow.

Question, how is best to mount the overflow? with the tank on its back or straight up? if its on its back it would be much easier, but if its straight up I can use a 'level' to make sure I get it level across the top?

Also, is there a way to edit the threads title? I feel like this is turning into a build thread, and Durso standpipe doesn't fit anymore.

 

[IUfan]

images

 

[IUfan]

Update.

Got the Overflow box siliconed on, Marc at Melevsreef did an absolute amazing job with the box, looks incredible and super pleased with it.

Got the drains built. Uncle, how does that all look, think I've followed everything pretty closely, but if there's any mistakes let me know.

Got the sump built, and painted the back and sides, I messed up and used black silicone so I decided to paint the front where the baffles are to keep it looking clean.

 

[IUfan]

Painted sump.

 

[IUfan]

I also plumbed the return, I've used locline inside, was stumped on how to connect the locline fittings, but by dipping the ball end in ice cold water and the socket end in boiling water, they fit together super easy.

I made the return line split inside the tank with a ball valve on the line that goes to the surface. I plan on dialing the surface line back to have very little flow, mainly just using that line to draw in air to break the siphon when the pump is off.

Does the above sound like it will work, I'm pretty sure, but not certain, that if the surface line sucks in air, it will break the siphon on the main line. that it connects to?

The last picture is the finished product. Relieved!

 

[uncleof6]

Melev does superb acrylic work, no arguing that. I don't agree with his material choice, extruded acrylic rather than cast, and there should not be teeth in an overflow. Great box, superbly executed, nicely installed--and only using half of it.....ummmmm......

You are not quite done yet. Throw away the loc-line, it is "juvenile" gimmickry, never put a return outlet more than 1" below the water surface, (siphon break or not--because the siphon break will break)--unless you want the water all over your floor instead of in the sump; make sure water coming from the return breaks the surface tension of the water--agitates the water surface, and put power heads in the tank to do what their job is: distribute the water to all parts of the tank. That loc-line pointing down is not going to do anything for you at all.

 

[Gandolfe]

May I ask who made uncleof6 such an overflow expert? It seems he has an opinion of a system that "he " Likes and says all others should be discarded. He is against "reef Ready" tanks yet millions have purchased them for years. IMO you need to evaluate many options before accepting this one members opinions as the standard. I have ran a 1" Durso pipe in a single corner overflow before with a mag 8 pump and it hardly made any noise and definitely had more than 50 GPH flow. That Dorso's are oversized above the 1" bulkhead to increase flow if you ever notice. They can be adjusted up and down to change water level in the overflow. On my 125 I drilled 3 holes and made an inside overflow box and ran a Bean animal type. It is quiet also. It all depends on what type you want and how much effort you want to put into incorporating it. Just because 1 person says to do something doesn't mean they are right.

 

[uncleof6]

May I ask who made uncleof6 such an overflow expert? It seems he has an opinion of a system that "he " Likes and says all others should be discarded. He is against "reef Ready" tanks yet millions have purchased them for years. IMO you need to evaluate many options before accepting this one members opinions as the standard. I have ran a 1" Durso pipe in a single corner overflow before with a mag 8 pump and it hardly made any noise and definitely had more than 50 GPH flow. That Dorso's are oversized above the 1" bulkhead to increase flow if you ever notice. They can be adjusted up and down to change water level in the overflow. On my 125 I drilled 3 holes and made an inside overflow box and ran a Bean animal type. It is quiet also. It all depends on what type you want and how much effort you want to put into incorporating it. Just because 1 person says to do something doesn't mean they are right.

35 years in the hobby, and an educational background that was heavy in physics, chemistry, biology, including marine biology, and aquaculture; coupled with a great deal of common sense, logic, and a hestitance to endorse advice that is merely repeated without a good understanding of the underlying science of a given topic and is predominantly anecdotal, especially when the physics contradict the assertions made.

With logic in mind, it would seem to me, that if you don't like the information I post, or the way it is presented, you don't have to read it, and perhaps putting me on ignore would be a better solution than jumping threads to post things such as this.

Incidentally, it is not just one person saying these things you object to, it is far more than you think; simply put, saying these things rocks the 'status quo,' which can create a controversy...Just for perspective, the majority of folks said the world was flat. Just 'one' said no it is not flat it is round (acutally it is spheroid, and more than one actually said it, but still,) turns out the minority were right...the masses were very much wrong...