Ed Reef's '295-gallon Peninsular ZEOVit SPS tank'

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Hi guys....I think I found out the problem why my PO4 refuse to come down and instead went up.

Last night after work, I was thinking about increase flow and that makes me check my Ehiem 1250 fed pump to my Zeovit reactor and to my shock, there was a lot of gunk suck at the blue sponge inside the inlet of the pump so this has cause the pump to reduce the flow drastically :mad2:

After removing the blue sponge for a good wash, the flow is back to normal again.... :dance:

So, I think that's what happen, not enough flow to the Zeovit reactor, thus all the Zeolite not as effective as it should be for bac growth... anyway, let' see this weekend if it helps my PO4 result :spin2:
 
QUARANTINE TANK!!

QUARANTINE TANK!!

OK, nothing huge, but a friend of mine have a spare Acrylic Nano tank (34L) that he do not used anymore so I decided to convert it into my Quarantine tank. :rollface: A free tank is a free tank â€"œ can’t complain there :p

QuarantineTank1.jpg


QuarantineTank2.jpg


Fill it with my current tank water and some sponge from my current sump to start off a cycle.

Problem with this tank is I have to find a way to hook a skimmer in there as to remove the cover, I have to removed the whole top?? Alternatively to used a fed pump to fed the water from the tank to another container where I can place the skimmer. :rolleye1:

Now I need to get some terra-cotta pots and PVC pipes for this tank :lol: I know it’s not a big tank but since I’m not in a rush to add fishes anyway, so this will be sufficient for now. Plan to quarantine each new fishes for at least 4-6 weeks before placing them into the display.

Meanwhile, been busy tearing down my old tank over last weekend (yes was still standing as I’ve no time to tear it down completely yet)
 
I removed ALL sponges from my pumps and reactors after going pro-biotic. Detritus, mulm, etc. were clogging them up really fast, reducing flow and creating a real maintenance nuisance.

Right now I use only intake strainers on pumps and bulkheads to catch the big stuff, and my two fluidized reactors (containing GFO and GAC) are operated with only the diffusor plates. Active use of GFO and GAC obviously goes against the Zeovit recommendations. I previously used Rowaphos but have been much, much happer since switching to Phosar-HC, which is vastly easier to clean. It hardly leaches any fines after the initial rinse and stays in the fluidized reactor where it is supposed to, even without a sponge before the outlet. With Rowaphos, I'd wash time and time again, progressively losing a lot of (expensive) product down the drain via what seemed to be endless fines. And every bubble that would rise up the reactor would bring up new fines that would get through the sponge and then into the system, much to the dismay of my clams. I have also found Phosar-HC much more effective, as smaller quantities have reduced PO4 to undetectable which Rowaphos never did.

As for carbon, I disregarded the advice on using the K-Z product passively. With a lot of leather corals, nephthids, and gorgonians plus a sea apple (just a pentacta anceps for now, it's been doing well for almost a year which is tempting me to try one of the beautiful, deadly ones) I run active carbon 24/7. The E.S.V. product works well, it is cheap and doesn't leach any PO4 after an overnight soak in boiling RO/DI water. I only use two cups which is changed every other week.

I also have continued to run all top off water through a kalkwasser stirrer, against Zeovit recommendations This is mainly to combat low pH (mostly from a well sealed house that has high CO2 levels), by converting excess CO2 in the tank water into carbonates. This helps maintain alkalinity while directly adding calcium to the water, and I have been able to reduce calcium reactor CO2 injection to four hours per day.

Anyway use of GFO and kalkwasser reduce PO4 in my system may have prolonged the maturation of the Zeovit system. My nitrates run quite high as I feed heavily, partly because I'm a sucker and the fish take advantage of me (including a fuzzy dwarf lionfish and dwarf moray eel that need to be well fed for obvious reasons, and a dozen wrasses that are all gluttons), but also because I have a lot of sun corals and aposymbiotic soft corals and gorgonians that need a large amounts of zooplankton at least daily to maintain health. The mulm is great for SPS but isn't enough for the aposymbionts. But my nitrates are slowly coming down from 50ppm despite persistent heavy feeding, now in the 10-25ppm range. And my clams, fox coral, elegance corals, bubble corals, and others that like "dirty water" are doing fine, while SPS remains very colorful with light-medium tissue -- no browns -- and no signs of TN. Film algae accumulates slowly, which the chevron tang and blennies love to eat. I clean biofilm off the sides every two weeks or so, and use the magnet on the front class every couple days to keep it perfectly clear.

Anyway, if high PO4 is causing trouble I would not hesitate running GFO. Disregarding some of the Zeovit instructions can definitely bring about disaster, but at the same time I wouldn't consider everything in the Zeo guide gospel, either. There are lots of ways to reach the end result :)


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13042048#post13042048 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ed Reef
Hi guys....I think I found out the problem why my PO4 refuse to come down and instead went up.

Last night after work, I was thinking about increase flow and that makes me check my Ehiem 1250 fed pump to my Zeovit reactor and to my shock, there was a lot of gunk suck at the blue sponge inside the inlet of the pump so this has cause the pump to reduce the flow drastically :mad2:

After removing the blue sponge for a good wash, the flow is back to normal again.... :dance:

So, I think that's what happen, not enough flow to the Zeovit reactor, thus all the Zeolite not as effective as it should be for bac growth... anyway, let' see this weekend if it helps my PO4 result :spin2:
 
Last edited:
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13051132#post13051132 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ekovalsky
I removed ALL sponges from my pumps and reactors after going pro-biotic. Detritus, mulm, etc. were clogging them up really fast, reducing flow and creating a real maintenance nuisance.

Right now I use only intake strainers on pumps and bulkheads to catch the big stuff, and my two fluidized reactors (containing GFO and GAC) are operated with only the diffusor plates. Active use of GFO and GAC obviously goes against the Zeovit recommendations. I previously used Rowaphos but have been much, much happer since switching to Phosar-HC, which is vastly easier to clean. It hardly leaches any fines after the initial rinse and stays in the fluidized reactor where it is supposed to, even without a sponge before the outlet. With Rowaphos, I'd wash time and time again, progressively losing a lot of (expensive) product down the drain via what seemed to be endless fines. And every bubble that would rise up the reactor would bring up new fines that would get through the sponge and then into the system, much to the dismay of my clams. I have also found Phosar-HC much more effective, as smaller quantities have reduced PO4 to undetectable which Rowaphos never did.

As for carbon, I disregarded the advice on using the K-Z product passively. With a lot of leather corals, nephthids, and gorgonians plus a sea apple (just a pentacta anceps for now, it's been doing well for almost a year which is tempting me to try one of the beautiful, deadly ones) I run active carbon 24/7. The E.S.V. product works well, it is cheap and doesn't leach any PO4 after an overnight soak in boiling RO/DI water. I only use two cups which is changed every other week.

I also have continued to run all top off water through a kalkwasser stirrer, against Zeovit recommendations This is mainly to combat low pH (mostly from a well sealed house that has high CO2 levels), by converting excess CO2 in the tank water into carbonates. This helps maintain alkalinity while directly adding calcium to the water, and I have been able to reduce calcium reactor CO2 injection to four hours per day.

Anyway use of GFO and kalkwasser reduce PO4 in my system may have prolonged the maturation of the Zeovit system. My nitrates run quite high as I feed heavily, partly because I'm a sucker and the fish take advantage of me (including a fuzzy dwarf lionfish and dwarf moray eel that need to be well fed for obvious reasons, and a dozen wrasses that are all gluttons), but also because I have a lot of sun corals and aposymbiotic soft corals and gorgonians that need a large amounts of zooplankton at least daily to maintain health. The mulm is great for SPS but isn't enough for the aposymbionts. But my nitrates are slowly coming down from 50ppm despite persistent heavy feeding, now in the 10-25ppm range. And my clams, fox coral, elegance corals, bubble corals, and others that like "dirty water" are doing fine, while SPS remains very colorful with light-medium tissue -- no browns -- and no signs of TN. Film algae accumulates slowly, which the chevron tang and blennies love to eat. I clean biofilm off the sides every two weeks or so, and use the magnet on the front class every couple days to keep it perfectly clear.

Anyway, if high PO4 is causing trouble I would not hesitate running GFO. Disregarding some of the Zeovit instructions can definitely bring about disaster, but at the same time I wouldn't consider everything in the Zeo guide gospel, either. There are lots of ways to reach the end result :)

Thanks ekovalsky - great write-up and advices....im considering to remove my filter socks and sponge filters?? Any thoughts on this?? :confused:
 
STOCKING LIST

STOCKING LIST

For those of you who have been following my thread, you know that with the recent Ich outbreak, I lost most of my fishes, which have been with me over a year and now that things have started to stable with the remaining fishes, it’s time to work on a new stocking list again:

Current fishes on hand:
TANG FAMILY
- Yellow Tang
- Pallet tang

TRIGGER FAMILY
- Niger Trigger

RABBITFISH FAMILY
- Masked Rabbitfish

DARTFISH FAMILY
- Purple firefish x 3

HAWKFISH FAMILY
- Long Nose Hawk

ANTHIAS FAMILY
- Randell Anthias

Future Stocking List Plan:
TANG FAMILY
- Powder Blue Tang
- Archilles’ Tang
- Yellow-eye Kole Tang
- Lipstick Tang

Anyone have any experience PBT and Achilles together as I heard they are sworn enemies?

WRASSE FAMILY
- Leopard Wrasse
- Fairy Wrasse x 3 (depending what I can get)
- 6 Liner Wrasse

ANGEL FAMILY
- Regal Angel
- Emperor Angel
- Bluegridled Angel (Majestic)
- Flame Angel

BUTTERFLY FAMILY
- Schooling Bannerfish x 5
- Pyramid Butterfly
- Tinker Butterfly (heard they are quite a safe bet â€"œ anyone with experience?)

What you guys think?? In my new stocking plans, intend to try some butterfly and more angels??

CLOWNFISH
- True Pecula Clown x 2 OR Saddleback x 2

Any experience with Saddleback?? Planning to get a Carpet one of these days so not sure which will be better choice?

ANTHIAS FAMILY
- Squarespot Anthias x 4
- Bartlett’s Anthias x 5

BLENNY FAMILY
- Redstreaked Blenny OR Biocolor Blenny OR Seaweed Blenny

DARTFISH FAMILY
- Lined Dartfish x 2
- Zebra Dartfish x 2
- Scissortail Dartfish x 2

Alternatively is to scrap the above list and simply get more Purple firefish to add on to the 3 firefish I already have?? What do you all think??

CARDINAL FAMILY
- Pajama Cardinals x 6

In my new stocking plans, really want to go for a greater variety of fishes and possibly at the same time some schooling fishes to make the reef look more realistic. If the bioload is too heavy, will cut down on the Tangs :p
 
Anyone have any experience PBT and Achilles together as I heard they are sworn enemies?

There are two guys local to me who have mixed Achilles and PBT together. However they have larger tanks....200+ gallons. Dont know what yours is offhand. They are not sworn enemies, they just occupy the same niche in the reef, and are the same family and shape, so they compete. If you're gonna mix them, I would reccomend getting the smallest similarly sized ones you can find, and add them together.

I would caution you on the Tinkerii butterfly....they can and will eat SPS polyps....

Any experience with Saddleback?? Planning to get a Carpet one of these days so not sure which will be better choice?

I would suggest going with the Perc's. Saddle's are notorious for being vicious snots. If you're going with a Gigantea carpet, go with the Percs and add a group. If you're going with a Haddoni carpet, then definately go with the Saddleback clowns. You'll want the snotty aggressive behaviour to keep your other fish away from the Carpet.

One final thought for you.....and I hate to say this, but....

Unless you remove the fish you have from your tank now and QT them, (while treating for Ich via copper or hyposalinity), and leave the main system free of fish for 6 weeks you will not have eradicated ich and can still get an outbreak any time your fish get stressed. So in that sense, QTing any new arrivals for disease is kind of pointless. I reccomend it nonetheless, but realize that you're still running the risk of another ich outbreak in your system.

Nick
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13065844#post13065844 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by maxxII
There are two guys local to me who have mixed Achilles and PBT together. However they have larger tanks....200+ gallons. Dont know what yours is offhand. They are not sworn enemies, they just occupy the same niche in the reef, and are the same family and shape, so they compete. If you're gonna mix them, I would reccomend getting the smallest similarly sized ones you can find, and add them together.

I would caution you on the Tinkerii butterfly....they can and will eat SPS polyps....

I would suggest going with the Perc's. Saddle's are notorious for being vicious snots. If you're going with a Gigantea carpet, go with the Percs and add a group. If you're going with a Haddoni carpet, then definately go with the Saddleback clowns. You'll want the snotty aggressive behaviour to keep your other fish away from the Carpet.

One final thought for you.....and I hate to say this, but....

Unless you remove the fish you have from your tank now and QT them, (while treating for Ich via copper or hyposalinity), and leave the main system free of fish for 6 weeks you will not have eradicated ich and can still get an outbreak any time your fish get stressed. So in that sense, QTing any new arrivals for disease is kind of pointless. I reccomend it nonetheless, but realize that you're still running the risk of another ich outbreak in your system.

Nick

Thanks Nick. Removing the remaining fishes is going to be tough. What I was planning to do is to let the remaining fishes 'ich free' over 2 months and start stocking up slowly again.

I know ich will always be there but once those fishes are establish, the risk is less...in my old tank, I do have ich attack also and I used this similar tactics
which works well for me then having it ich free over a year.

Your comments on the Perc and Saddle makes complete sense. Will decided what type carpet I get but at this moment I'm leaning towards a Gigantea so looks likes a few Perc might be in order :rollface:

As for the butterfly, agree Tinker could post a risk and most probably I will give it a skip especially when corals are only frag size. For the Tangs, my tank is 300g so should be fine but will see how it goes.....not easy task to find a similar size for these two fishes :mad:

Anyway, it's a slow road up ahead so plenty of time to decided. Planned is to start stocking up on hardy fishes first - cardinals, etc and move upwards onto the more sensitive fishes, i.e. PBT and Archilles
 
EXCHANGE TRANSISTOR BOARD FOR SOLARIS LED LIGHTING

EXCHANGE TRANSISTOR BOARD FOR SOLARIS LED LIGHTING

Today I finally got time to replace the faulty Transistor board.

Switch on the lighting fixture and adjust the timing to 2am and hold and behold….my problem is worst than before â€"œ more DW lights refuse to off…now it’s spread to all section of the lights. So I change back to the old board. :furious:

Day White Lights on with new board refuse to off:

SolarisLEDDWRemainON01.jpg

SolarisLEDDWRemainON02.jpg


Day White Lights on with old board refuse to off:

SolarisLEDDWRemainON03.jpg

SolarisLEDDWRemainON04.jpg


Looking at the board design, I still think they send me the ‘Control Board’ instead of the ‘Transistor Board’ as the design are the same as the control board??

I think this is what they should have to send me!!

SolarisTransistorBoard.png


:mad2: :mad2: :mad2:
 
MORE LIGHTINGS WOOS

MORE LIGHTINGS WOOS

I got another issues, 2 section of my LED is down !! I think it's the Ballast issue so I swap them around and yes, it's confirm one of my Ballast simply quit working?? Will write to them again. :sad2:

Solaris2SectionLEDNotWorking.jpg


I remove the defect ballast and open up inside. One of the transistors is burn :eek2:

SolarisBallastNotWorking.jpg

SolarisBallastTransistor.jpg


I know there are a lot of people will be saying "I told you so" well, yeah I was an a** and should have listen and used tested technology instead. :hmm1: But overall I still must say it's a cool light fixture, if and when it works :inlove: Only thing is the build quality that is questionable !! :worried:

Seems I'm experiencing all the issues with the fixture from the H-series. Honestly I'm getting a little frustrated but not sure if I'm just one of those unlucky folks to get a bad unit as my friend's unit work fine since day one :sad1: What's worst is the risk of a fire with the poor build quality??? :furious:

Will be exchanging some e-mails and see how it goes!!
 
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WATER PARAMETER UPDATES….

WATER PARAMETER UPDATES….

Water parameter results for this week……

➢ Temperature â€"œ 26.8 degree C
➢ Salinity â€"œ 1.026
➢ Ph â€"œ 8.11
➢ NO3 â€"œ 2 (using Salifert â€"œ lower than last week)
➢ dKH â€"œ 8.0 (using old Salifert test kit â€"œ drop from last week)
➢ dKH â€"œ 8.0 (using new Salifert test kit â€"œ drop from last week)
➢ dKH â€"œ 8 (API test kit â€"œ same as last week)
➢ Ca â€"œ 470 (using Salifert test kit â€"œ my Ca went up high â€"œ need to reduce my Reactor as I now have very little corals)
➢ Mg â€"œ 1440 (using Salifert test kit - increase with my increase in Ca)
➢ PO4 â€"œ 0.1 (using Salifert â€"œ same as last week)
➢ Potassium â€"œ between 370 to 380 (same as last week)

Don’t understand why my PO4 is still not coming down? Will give it one more week and then decided what to do!!

I also order Elos Ca, Mg and Kh test kits, which should arrived within the next 10 days to compare against my Salifert test kits results. :p

Oh yeah, tested my Quarantine tank also and shows zero NO2 and NH3 with NO3 standing at 2 using Salifert so I thin k it’s good to go :D
 
REVISED STOCKING LIST

REVISED STOCKING LIST

After the many suggestions from everyone, below is (I think) my final stock list

Current fishes on hand:

TANG FAMILY
- Yellow Tang
- Pallet tang

TRIGGER FAMILY
- Niger Trigger

RABBITFISH FAMILY
- Masked Rabbitfish â€"œ will have to go back to LFS one of these days

DARTFISH FAMILY
- Purple firefish x 3

HAWKFISH FAMILY
- Long Nose Hawk

ANTHIAS FAMILY
- Randell Anthias

Future Stocking List Plan:

TANG FAMILY
- Archilles’ Tang

WRASSE FAMILY
- Leopard Wrasse
- Fairy Wrasse x 3 (depending what I can get)
- 6 Liner Wrasse

ANGEL FAMILY
- Regal Angel
- Bluegridled Angel (Majestic)
- Flame Angel

BUTTERFLY FAMILY
- Pyramid Butterfly x 3
- Tinker Butterfly

CLOWNFISH
- True Pecula Clown x 4

ANTHIAS FAMILY
- Squarespot Anthias x 6
- Bartlett’s Anthias x 6

BLENNY FAMILY
- Redstreaked Blenny OR Biocolor Blenny OR Seaweed Blenny

All this hopefully over a period of 1year or so...what do you guys think of my new list?? :rollface:
 
LIFE IN QUARANTINE!!

LIFE IN QUARANTINE!!

This came in and I simple could not refuse, a 2in Juv Majestic Angel…. :p after the usual acclimation process…

MajesticAngelJuv.jpg


I started off with a SG level of 1.022-.23 in my QT tank and monitor from there. If something develops, then I will drop the SG level slowly or if everything is fine after a couple of weeks, I will raise it to my display tank level slowly once it’s ready for the main display.

Still need to get a skimmer for my quarantine tank but temporary just do vacuuming the BB as much as possible.
 
Ed, I am positively sorry to hear about your lights.:(
how are your corals appearing with the light not working conscientiously?

I have read about the identical problems with that light here on RC as well as other forums, It's not just you. I think PFO continues to have QC problems. That light is way too $$$$$$$$$$$ to have that frequent problems.

I would be afraid of a fire starting.

When you are ready, you will send it back and order a AI :D
Good luck!
 
Ed

As you know I have had the same problems. Do yourself a favor and get rid of the solaris. SPS cant take all that lighting change. You are going to loose your corals if you keep the solaris, trust me.

Has anyone seen a successful SPS tank with LED lighting?????? Anyone????

I can see PFO is still doing it cheap to make a buck. By the way that is a capacitor that blew, not a transistor. That would be correct since they dont power the LEDs properly. Also might be a short somewhere. And they are not ballasts. They are regular computer power supplies, that are black and someone crudely installed a 3 pin plug on it. When I got mine it was missing all the screws on one of the jacks.

Im just trying to save you the misery.... Good Luck Buddy!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13084916#post13084916 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by edandsandy
Ed, I am positively sorry to hear about your lights.:(
how are your corals appearing with the light not working conscientiously?

I have read about the identical problems with that light here on RC as well as other forums, It's not just you. I think PFO continues to have QC problems. That light is way too $$$$$$$$$$$ to have that frequent problems.

I would be afraid of a fire starting.

When you are ready, you will send it back and order a AI :D
Good luck!

Yeah it's sad Sandy as previously I also read about all these problems but t was more related to their earlier model series and I would have thought that all have been resolved in their latest model but apparently not !!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13085162#post13085162 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by buck50bmg
Ed

As you know I have had the same problems. Do yourself a favor and get rid of the solaris. SPS cant take all that lighting change. You are going to loose your corals if you keep the solaris, trust me.

Has anyone seen a successful SPS tank with LED lighting?????? Anyone????

I can see PFO is still doing it cheap to make a buck. By the way that is a capacitor that blew, not a transistor. That would be correct since they dont power the LEDs properly. Also might be a short somewhere. And they are not ballasts. They are regular computer power supplies, that are black and someone crudely installed a 3 pin plug on it. When I got mine it was missing all the screws on one of the jacks.

Im just trying to save you the misery.... Good Luck Buddy!

Thanks buck50bmg. I'm going to give them a last chance to fix this issues. Overall I still think it's a cool light fixture but the QC is questionable :mad:

Hehehe..thanks for correcting the power supply and capacitor - it only shows how much I know about electronics :p
 
Thanks Lunabud74 but will be a few weeks in quarantine for this little guy before he gets to play with the other boys :lol:
 
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