Fairy wrasse Photo Library

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Well good luck with the others! And my general rule of thumb is buy from a LFS so I can see the specimen or a reputable online vendor with large warrantys like LiveAquaria (14 days i believe)
 
"I am going to start treating with Garlic and if that doesnt work, I am setting up a QT."

Take the "if that doesn't work" out of that statment and change it to "and", then you have learned a great lesson. :)
 
I would not beat myself up too bad ghever.

Not all wholesalers are created equal. My experience with some is vastly different from others.

I would hope that you received a substantial discount for the purchase of the fish sight unseen. When you make this type of purchase you are essentially assuming the risk of the LFS. A lot of folks that post about purchasing from reputable online dealers or purchasing established fish at the LFS forget that some folks occasionally have the option of this type of purchase and the assumption of the risks.

Generally wrasses come in and do very well. The larger the wrasse, however, the lower the survival rate.

If you did not receive a substantial discount for this transaction, then it is another lesson learned.

In terms of online ordering, I agree with the recommendation for LiveAquaria. Their guarantee is second to none. Unfortunately, they sometimes have a reduced stock level compared to other options.

And of course, this was definietly the poster child situation for quarantine. Especially since you did not get to see the fish first.
 
thanks again..

thanks again..

i tried to see if they had pics of the fish, I asked to make sure the linneatus had the right coloration (male)...I got 10% off which is not a big break at all...and I agree, my guarantee on these fish sucked, since I they have none...Whether they follow through or not and help me out, we shall see...I tend to think they wont, but if they wanted repeat business they will help me out somehow.

I did further water testing... salinity still at 1.024 ..pH max is still at 8.3.... Ca was at 400 and Alkalinity was at 8.3... Nitrites were below 0.2 (pretty much undetectable levels, 0.2 is lowest resolution I have and solution was still clear compared to the 0.3 color) and Nitrate was less than 10 (again, lowest resolution I have...but again, the coloration was aboslutely clear compared to the 10, so I am assuming my Nitrates are much closer to 0 than they are to 10)....I didnt even bother with Ammonia because my tank is well cycled and I dont leave animals to die off inside the tank.

Soooooo, all these water params seemed to be pretty much perfect... I need to raise my calcium a little, but that should have no impact on fish health...the linneatus was pretty damn big... probably 3-4inches...I really dont know what to say.

Still no sign of the labouti....either he is in a deep sleep... or he is dead...I am leaning towards the latter...which sucks.. the two most expensive fish gone, and probably no money back for them.

Lesson learned indeed... I am going with LiveAquaria from now on for really expensive fish....most of the good online wholesalers are located close to where I live, so going there and checking the fish out is another option.

G
 
social fairy wrasse
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he wont spread his fins for me. he looks a lot better with his fins spread out.
does any one know how to tell male from female in this type of wrass
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=5577678#post5577678 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bronco7777
Crazylionfish,

The Solar is a perfect candidate. He's not a very large fairy wrasse. Really only medium sized even when full grown. Very Hardy. Feed lots of Mysis shrimp and cyclopeeze and he'll flourish in your tank.

Gunmoto,

My current roster of wrasses is the following. This is scattered over 3 tanks:

Orangeback Fairy
Labout's Fairy
Finespotted Fairy
Exquisite Fairy (2 Male & Female)
Solar Fairy (young male)
Yellowflanked fairy (Juvenile)
Yellowfin Fairy
Lineatus Fairy (Large Male)
Pink Margin Fairy (Large Male)
Scott's Fairy (Large Male)
Debelius Fairy Wrasse
Lubbock's Fairy
Flame fairy
Pyle's fairy (female)
Rhomboid (juvenile)
Mystery wrasse
Black Hat pencil wrasse
twin spot / sunset candy hog wrasse
cleaner wrasse ( close to two years now in my tank)


thats like $2000 dolars in fish:eek2: :eek1: :eek: :eek1:
 
Pyle_s_closeup_1.JPG
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One very distinguishing charateristic of a Pyle's are the ventral fins....VERY LONG. Almost look like a pair of legs.


[url]http://www.reefaquariumguide.com/gallery/data/500/Pyle_s_closeup_3.JPG[/url][/IMG]

Lots of people confuse this fish with a Rhomboid because they are both yellow in body color with blue-purple dots. The difference is the Pyle's has a bright red dorsal fin and the tip en of the tail has a metalic light blue margin...thus it's also called a Blue Margin fairy.
 
Pyle_s_closeup_3.JPG
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One last pic. These pics all demonstrate what I was explaining earlier in the thread. If you keep the fish in a specimen cup in the main tank prior to releasing him, he'll adapt better and he'll stand up better for himself when released. I do this now for all my new fish.
 
Nice bronco, looks like mine!! I just gotta find him a girl :) Do the males keep there colors or do they kind of fade without a girl.
 
Merry Christmas All!

Just thought I'd post a few pictures of my new prized fishy! Hope you like him.

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Here is a couple pics of my other Wrasse too!

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Hope you like them!

aidyb

:rollface:
 
Awesome pyles wrasse bronco!! Aweomse labouti wady!! Wady, what is that wrasse in the last picture. They had one at my LFS, but I wasn't sure about hardiness and reef compatibility because it was not a cirrhilibrus.
 
DeltecRules: Mine Pylie has faded only slightly in the last 8 months. The blue stripe on the tail is not as vibrant, but still a pretty cool looking fish.
 
question..

question..

Bronco, where do you get those isolation cups from?

Like others have asked, how long do you keep them in there? Do you put something on top to prevent them from jumping out?

Do you feed them inside the cup?

For a quarantine tank, I have a nano at work that is 18gal... I am getting tired of maintaining it so am thinking of turning it into a Q tank. Do you guys think it is big enough for a Q tank?

Obviously I would need to remove the live rock and any coral or invert I have inside.

thanks
G
 
ghever & tang man

How long I keep a fish in a specimen cup depends entirely on the fish's behavior. Typically about 3 days. What I look for is body language.

Is the fish eating well?
Does he display or flash if another fish comes close to him in the cup?
Does he swim and or move around....or does he just sit at the bottom not moving?
If I feed the rest of the tank first, does he try to eat through the holes of the cup (showing hunger and interest in food)?
If I get a "NO" answer to any of these I leave the fish in the cup until he can give me a "YES" with body language.
By the time I release him into the main tank. All the original fish are used to his presence and he is able to stand up for himself as some territory squabbles occur (and they always do!)

I kept this Pyle's in for only two days. He adjusted quite quickly after I brought him out of QT.

Cup: You can go to any Petsmart or Petco and purchase what is called a breeder cup. This is usually used to separate adults from babys. It's a cup with holes in it to let the tank water come through but it has a lid and has built in air pockets to allow the cup to float up top at the water surface. Yes, I have to feed the fish in the cup...a bit of a pain. But the payback of a healthy fish adjusting to a tank is worth it.

A 18 Gallon Nano is great for a QT. I use a 10 Gallon plain-jane glass tank with a cheap hang on filter from Petsmart. A decent heater and a lid to prevent jumping and I'm good to go. I've used this as my QT for 5 years and it's saved countless numbers of fish from poor shipping and handling by suppliers, distributors, and or ignorant LFS's.
 
Bronco,

Great info. Thanks!

I'm wondering if this approach could be used on larger fish as well using a custom made "specimen cup" of appropriate size... ie: small tangs, angels, etc...

Ofcoarse, the isolation area would have to be large enough for the fish, and the intended tank would have to have space for such a large intrusion, but nonetheless, this could be quite interesting.
 
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