Ghetto Rig

I brought htis over from an old forum... thought it might be good to bring across some of this good old stuff.. besides, I wrote it so I am proud..

One issue many reefers battle in their tanks is a high level of Nitrates. Ammonia and Nitrites are processed by Aerobic (oxygen consuming) bacteria, but the bacteria that process the NItrates into Nitrogen gas only thrive in an Anerobic (oxygen deprived) envronment. While live rock, sump sponges and sand beds provide a place for some of these bacteria, in many cases it is just not enough to handle the bioload of the tank inhabitants.

there are several ways to reduce the nitrate levels in your tank.

One way to reduce Nitrates may include using microporus products such as Seachem's Denitrator. While these products may work, they are expensive and not necessarily long lived. From reading Seachem's website, the Denitrator product they sell is a highly porus granule that can be used for substrate or placed somewhere in the sump.

For those with lots of light in the tank, such as Metal Halide or even VHO lighting, clams are a great choice for reducing their nitrates. Clams feed of this chemical, but they are expensive and if you dont have sufficient light, they wont last long at all.

THe most widely used method of using nitrates is regualr water changes. The theory is that by changing a large volume of your tanks water, you are basically diluting the nitrates. while this is true, many here at FF dont believe in water changes. they are expensive, time consuming and at times Messy.

A solution to Nitrate issues that is starting to catch on in this forum. Many of us have started using De-Nitrator coils. there are several commercial units on the market ranging in price form $70 to $300+. While expensive, these products are effective. But wouldnt you rather spend that hard earned $$$ on fish or corals? De-Nitrator coils are basically a very long piece of tubing coiled up inside a tube or canister with a slow low pressure flow rate. the tubing provides a surface for which the bacteria can attach themselves. in the first third or so of the tubing, you have the Ammonia processing bacteria. these bacteria use some of the oxygen in the water to turn the Ammonia into Nitrite. the second third of the tubing houses the Nitrite processing bacteria. THis bacteria uses the remaining oxygen in the tubed water to process the Nitrite into Nitrate. By this time, the water has been depleted of its oxygen content and the NItrate processing bacteria are allowed to thrive and thus process the NItrate into soluble nitrogen gas which is then expelled at the water surface of the tank or sump.

Knowing these principals, you can build a coil for under $30 not including a pump. mine cost me $22! I bought a 60ft length of 1/4 inside diameter black pvc tubing at Tractor supply Company. it cost me $.22 a foot. I then took a 24" piece of 4" PVC pipe and purchased 2 4"endcaps. I drilled 2 holes just large enought for the tubing to fit thru in one of these caps. I rolled up the tubing neatly and stuffed it into the pipe and ran the two tag ends of the tubing out of the cap with the holes. I then purchased a inline air valve (like used with aquarium air pump) and placed in on one end of the tubing so that I could control the water flow. the other end I hooked up to an existing pump with a low pressure outlet, but several here have used a 4gph fountain pump. I have mine adjusted to about 3-4 drops per second. That is all there is to it.

it will take about 6 weeks or so for the unit to become fully functional (cycle), but from what we have discovered, these devices work wonders on reducing nitrates.

Parts List:
50-60ft 1/4" pvc (air hose) tubing
24" section of 4" pvc drain pipe and 2 end caps (have heard of some using a large coffee can)
1 adjustable air valve
4gph fountain pump
 
Stare at this for a while it will help.

optical-illusion.png

wow, it makes my eyes water!!
 
I did mine a touch differently and wrapped my tubing around the outside so that it was a long slow journey into the chamber and then filled the chamber with bioballs to get the anerobic bacteria a place to live.

I will tell you that if you have to open this up - it is putrid!! I used a screw cap for my base and a lot of teflon tape and silicone to seal it up. that way, I can take it apart if I ever needed to.

I can post pics if anyone needs them.
 
I did mine a touch differently and wrapped my tubing around the outside so that it was a long slow journey into the chamber and then filled the chamber with bioballs to get the anerobic bacteria a place to live.

I will tell you that if you have to open this up - it is putrid!! I used a screw cap for my base and a lot of teflon tape and silicone to seal it up. that way, I can take it apart if I ever needed to.

I can post pics if anyone needs them.

pics please
 
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Took an old street light and replaced the high pressure sodium ballast with a metal halide ballast and a couple of 2x4's later its over my tank. This picture was a year ago when i first started my tank light still works great.
 
I will have some pics up tomorrow. Took them tonight but not sure how clear they will be.

I'll also post my diy ghetto 6 light 48" t5ho used shop light into a 36" 4 light setup for my frag tank. The other 2 are going in my other 90g for Actinic supp with my new mh.
 
Pickupman66,

Thanks for sharing. It sounds like an easy and inexpensive build. I'd like to try and make one for my 180. What length tubing would you recommend? Is the diameter of the coil important? Thanks. :thumbsup:
 
I used 4" PVC with 1 round cap and one flat cap with a scew in lid for the base. I used the sprinkler drip hose from Lowes and wrapped it around the outside nice and tight. I think it took about 20+ feet. I bought a 50' box and made one for each of my tanks. I did put media in mine (in theory to give the bacteria a home).

I used suction from the main tank down into the reactor, then used a airline knob to adjust flow. It needs to be a slow drip for a couple months and then you can open it up and let it run. Pics are coming if photobucket will get them uploaded.
 
Sorry about the pics, they are from my iphone and in a dark aquarium room. I might be able to get better ones if needed.

Side pic - notice that the coil wraps nicely around tube from the overhand of the caps.

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I want to make sure this works before adding rest.
 
As is sits down by the sump -
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inflow comes from the tank, around the tube and in through the bottom.
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( is is shown upside down)

Here is the bottom I used for ease of filling and maintenance if ever needed. I hope I haver have to open this thing up.

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Water flows throught the chamber then out the top to the sump.
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I hope this helps.
 
Here is my ghetto t5h0 cutdown pics. took a 48" t5h0 refub light and cut it to 36" for my frag tank - 40B.

at 48" notice the cut - I will overlap it 12" to make it fit to 36"
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Overlapped.
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With reflectors
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Lights on
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frag stands
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Pickupman - where do you find 4gph pumps? I have looked but had no success. I have my just feeding on vacuum from DT through coil and into sump but if I could have it pump that may be better.

Or what pump do you have that has a low pressure output or option.
 
usctrack.....
what did you use to seal the places where the tubs went into the PVC ... i used Weldon #16 and its leaking a bit, is that silicone?
 
Yes, I siliconed mine on both side since I was able to get a hand inside with the open bottom. I also siliconed the top inside before I mounted the top cap to the tube body. I used a drill size guide to find the right size bit and then it barely fit in there - lots of twisting and turning. Then sealed it up. Its air tight!
 
wish i had thought of putting silicon on the inside before i sealed mine up cause just having it on the outside blows. so fare it wont stop leaking. the good thing is if i wanted to redo it , it would be easy. the most expensive part of the whole setup is the end caps lol
 
Pickupman - where do you find 4gph pumps? I have looked but had no success. I have my just feeding on vacuum from DT through coil and into sump but if I could have it pump that may be better.

Or what pump do you have that has a low pressure output or option.

The Tom Aquatics Aqualifter is ~ 3GPH.
 
It's about time I contributed to this thread.

This morning I saw something on my sandbed that looked interesting. It was much too far away from the glass to see clearly, and behind a rock stack anyways. What to do? "I know! I need a lookdown box!"

Big PVC repair coupling: 98 cents
Two big zip ties: 10 cents
Piece of plastic wrap: 1 cent
Seeing that weird thing on the bottom of the tank with your new lookdown "box:" Priceless.

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I stretched the plastic wrap tightly over the fitting and zip tied it on. It's stretched tight enough to provide a perfectly flat viewing pane. It's rather small, but plenty big enough to work very well. Also, it's light enough that it floats when upright, so you don't have to worry about it sinking if you let go for a second.
 
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