Got a Mitratus coming in... Need some butterfly experts advice on QT

[ghstrider]

Im not familiar w butterflies or whats the best QT techniques... He will be in my 55g qt solo w/o meds and i plan on spending the first week getting him feeding. But what after? Do i prazi then cupramine like i do my angels? Are BFs delicate to certain meds? I need some expert advice on the full qt for my new fish.

Thanks

 

[SDguy]

I don't have experience with that particular species, but I have successfully QT'ed several other species.

So far, all of mine have had ich, so first thing is cupramine. I use a very low dose, just enough that you can't really see it on the test. I think it comes to about 2-3 drops per gallon. The lasts for 6 weeks, with another two weeks without cupramine to confirm that the ich is gone.

For bacterial issues, which most of mine have also had (milky skin, red sores, etc etc) I've used FW dips and then Nitrofuracin Green Powder. I've been very happy with the results of this product. I've used it during copper, if need be, without issue.

I only do prazi after they are eating well, and all the other stuff is done with. Only exception... if flukes are obvious, and the fish is in major distress, I would prazi even if not eating well yet. Also, FW dips will alleviate immediate issue caused by flukes.

When I say FW dip, I mean like a good 10 minutes, BTW...not 2-3 minutes.

HTH.

 

[LobsterOfJustice]

I have a declivis that stops eating in cupramine, so be ready for that - might have to treat with hypo.

 

[RBU1]

I don't have experience with that particular species, but I have successfully QT'ed several other species.

So far, all of mine have had ich, so first thing is cupramine. I use a very low dose, just enough that you can't really see it on the test. I think it comes to about 2-3 drops per gallon. The lasts for 6 weeks, with another two weeks without cupramine to confirm that the ich is gone.

For bacterial issues, which most of mine have also had (milky skin, red sores, etc etc) I've used FW dips and then Nitrofuracin Green Powder. I've been very happy with the results of this product. I've used it during copper, if need be, without issue.

I only do prazi after they are eating well, and all the other stuff is done with. Only exception... if flukes are obvious, and the fish is in major distress, I would prazi even if not eating well yet. Also, FW dips will alleviate immediate issue caused by flukes.

When I say FW dip, I mean like a good 10 minutes, BTW...not 2-3 minutes.

HTH.

That low dose Cupramine seems to work for you? I was told that if you are not keeping the Cupramine at the proper level its not worth even treating with it. Would be nice to know if the low level does in deed work.

 

[SDguy]

Yes, it does. Perhaps the length of time (at least 6 weeks) is the reason.

 

[ghstrider]

Sd,

How exactly do you do your FW dips? Ive never done it so I could use a total walkthru. Im guessing ro water in a bucket the same temp as water fish comes in but then what? Do i remove him from the ro and put him back in the water from the supplier then acclimate to my tank. Im sorry but i just want to do it right.

 

[SDguy]

I used to do FW dips when I first got the fish, but have foun dthis to be too stressful. Since they are going into a QT anyways, I don't care if I introduce something with them. However, once settled, I have found FW dips to really help with general bacterial looking issues, as well as flukes.

Yup, I just drop them into temp adjusted DI water. I used to pH the DI water to 8.3, but have found this to not always be good, since sometimes QT water can be much lower in pH. If it is pure DI water, it will easily jump to whatever pH your salt water is once you drop the fdish in, with a small amount of its tank water, since DI water has basically no buffering ability.

 

[Yurivd]

Also have a look at the bucket method it takes white spot away in 7 days with out any chemicals

 

[ghstrider]

Unless I see anything wrong, Im gonna stick with my QT routine. And that is acclimation for 2 hours, get the fish feeding well over a week, start a prazi treatment for a week, water change, then a few days and lastly a cupramine treatment for a few weeks. I will then repeat the prazi then copper for another round before he sees my display.

 

[RBU1]

Unless I see anything wrong, Im gonna stick with my QT routine. And that is acclimation for 2 hours, get the fish feeding well over a week, start a prazi treatment for a week, water change, then a few days and lastly a cupramine treatment for a few weeks. I will then repeat the prazi then copper for another round before he sees my display.

Sounds like a plan....

Is it from NY Aquatic?

 

[ghstrider]

Yes, should arrive today.

 

[SDguy]

Unless I see anything wrong, Im gonna stick with my QT routine. And that is acclimation for 2 hours, get the fish feeding well over a week, start a prazi treatment for a week, water change, then a few days and lastly a cupramine treatment for a few weeks. I will then repeat the prazi then copper for another round before he sees my display.

Sounds good to me. I wouldn't cupramine unless you actually see ich, but that's just my opinion.

 

[ghstrider]

Fish is here and eating mysis one hour out of acclimation... all is well

 

[RBU1]

Awesome how about a picture?

 

[SDguy]

Fish is here and eating mysis one hour out of acclimation... all is well

Great! I've never heard of issues with feeding these types of butterflies. I'd be surprised if he doesn't take pellets in short order.

 

[ghstrider]

Awesome how about a picture?

Certainly! And I'll do better... Heres a video I took during acclimation in a reef crystals bucket

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid1030.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy364%2Fgarcia751%2Fada43d32.mp4">

I'll try to post a video of him zipping thru the QT tank tomorrow.

 

[ghstrider]

Great! I've never heard of issues with feeding these types of butterflies. I'd be surprised if he doesn't take pellets in short order.

Tried a few nori flakes and he was interested but didnt eat it. Will try pellets and some spirulina flakes tomorrow along with his mysis.

 

[SDguy]

Nice video... they have such a nice color pattern!

 

[ghstrider]

Heres the Mitratus in QT just cruising around after his mysis meal...

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid1030.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy364%2Fgarcia751%2Fb550a083.mp4">

 

[Sk8r]

piece of advice: ask your fish source the salinity they're shipping at: pre-set your qt tank to that salinity. WHen the fish arrives, float the still-sealed bag for 15 minutes to equalize temperature, then open the bag, check the salinity to be sure you're within .001 and then move the wish into qt with no drip.

when a shipping bag is opened, the pressure change releases the co2 from the water, which causes a ph shift AND the conversion of ammonium (harmless, odorless, built up in the water from fish bioprocess) into deadly ammonia. Too long an acclimation, as in more than 30 minutes, can kill a fish that has made it safely that far. Acclimation is about salinity adjustment: I would advise taking care of that by adjusting your qt tank, not the fish. That lets you put the fish straight over into qt virtually the moment the bag is opened. Have the qt lights out. The fish has been in the dark. Give it hiding places, like a PVC elbow. I would give it a day and encourage it to start eating first: myself I prefer to delay any treatment until you're have a clue whether or if you're dealing with parasite or bacteria. Just my opinion.