jasonrp104
New member
Not yet. I just qt'd them last night.
Will do though.
Will do though.
Have ICH looky here!!!!!
- Thread starter WaterKeeper
- Start date
Aquarist007
New member
In lieu of Water Keeper's absence I'll accept the thank you from him
happy_valley
New member
okay, so if i have 4 fish in tank and 2 are showing signs of ich. will it be okay for me to use copper or salinity treatment in my main tank?
the only thing besides fish is live rock, one rock with small polyps, and the inverts....what ya thinkin?
just thinkin by the time i get my qt water out of my (40gallon a day ro/add on di sytem) then mix the salt for 24 hrs and get to right temp. it will be 24-48 hrs...can i just start whatever treatment you think is better for main tank, so then i can just start on the second step of treatment.
please just give it to me straight haha
oh also i have another suggestion i read in magazine. tell me your opinion.
i read that a marine biologist that works at the omaha, nb aquatic center does a very pre-tank treatment. they have i believe 1million gallon tank so may apply different cause of that, but he said that he prior to a new fish being added to tank. they at the zoo will drop the fish in 0tds water with 0 salinity for approx. 5-8 mins. pretty much when the fish starts teatering from side to side and really struggling. then they scoop out and acclimate to main tank. he said thats enough time to kill or get all parasites off saltwater fish without a long qt process.
you folks tell me what you think...honestly!
sorry to pester for the one millionth time and spelling/grammer errors lol
the only thing besides fish is live rock, one rock with small polyps, and the inverts....what ya thinkin?
just thinkin by the time i get my qt water out of my (40gallon a day ro/add on di sytem) then mix the salt for 24 hrs and get to right temp. it will be 24-48 hrs...can i just start whatever treatment you think is better for main tank, so then i can just start on the second step of treatment.
please just give it to me straight haha
oh also i have another suggestion i read in magazine. tell me your opinion.
i read that a marine biologist that works at the omaha, nb aquatic center does a very pre-tank treatment. they have i believe 1million gallon tank so may apply different cause of that, but he said that he prior to a new fish being added to tank. they at the zoo will drop the fish in 0tds water with 0 salinity for approx. 5-8 mins. pretty much when the fish starts teatering from side to side and really struggling. then they scoop out and acclimate to main tank. he said thats enough time to kill or get all parasites off saltwater fish without a long qt process.
you folks tell me what you think...honestly!
sorry to pester for the one millionth time and spelling/grammer errors lol
NO!!!!
Not unless you want a dead display tank! The threatment proposed at the start of this thread are for hospital tanks only.
FW dips may cause the parasite to release but others will emerge from the substrate and reinfect the fish. If you have ich, follow the treatment steps and use a H-tank.
Not unless you want a dead display tank! The threatment proposed at the start of this thread are for hospital tanks only.
FW dips may cause the parasite to release but others will emerge from the substrate and reinfect the fish. If you have ich, follow the treatment steps and use a H-tank.
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happy_valley
New member
okay just read the fine print....ha ha sorry bout that and thanx for the wake up call to reread.
you really experienced reefers are a lot of help to us new-comers and WE REALLY CANT THANK ALL OF YOU ENOUGH!
hospital tank setup and got my test and treatment=)
thank you
you really experienced reefers are a lot of help to us new-comers and WE REALLY CANT THANK ALL OF YOU ENOUGH!
hospital tank setup and got my test and treatment=)
thank you
Aquarist007
New member
if you have even one fish showing signs of ich in the display tank you need to treat ALL the fish in a qt.
The display tank needs to be fishless for at least 6 weeks.
If you qt the fish for 6 weeks then you should be okay to put them back in the tank at that point.
loyalrogue
New member
That will work on several other types of parasites, but will not work on Ich.
FW dips or baths do not affect the encysted Ich because they are not on the surface of the skin.
They are buried under the flesh where the FW cannot penetrate.
The Omaha Aquatic Center doesn't put the fish through a long quarantine period because in a tank of that size Ich is not a health concern.
In the wild (or a million gallon tank) Ich is a harmless parasite that bothers the fish no more than a single flea bite might bother you when you're walking thru a field.
Ich only becomes a dangerous problem when in the confines of a smaller area.
Since Ich has evolved to survive in the wild by reproducing in the hundreds in the hope that one or two might find a host, when they get into a small area, like your tank, dozens or even hundreds can find a host very easily.
This leads to a population explosion.
Instead of that single flea in the field, now think about locking yourself in the bedroom with a few thousand fleas. Not pretty is it?
That's basically what our fish go through when they get Ich.
The main difference is that fleas won't clog your lungs, but Ich will certainly attack the gills and if there is enough of them they can cause the fish to suffocate and die.
Aquarist007
New member
Lets put it this way he'd have a roaring good time in there to the dismay of the other fish.
alot of reefers add a few pieces of pvc pipe for the fish to hide in.
another solution is to setup two qt's
Aquarist007
New member
depends on the treatment method for eg:
Treatment Option 6: Hyposalinity
While hyposalinity is a frequently recommended treatment for Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans, against Marine Velvet/Amyloodinium ocellatum it is unlikely to be useful. Amyloodinium ocellatum can survive a much wider range of environments than can Cryptocaryon irritans.
A salinity of 16 ppt for 28 days
is usually recommended to kill Cryptocaryon irritans (Noga, 2000), but Amyloodinium ocellatum has been found in salinities ranging from 3 to 45 ppt (Noga, 2000), with its optimum range of salinity for reproduction at 16.7 to 28.5 ppt (Univ. of Florida). Clearly, lowering the salinity is not going to be effective.
from this article:
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-07/sp/feature/index.php
Aquarist007
New member
+1 on this answer
:thumbsup:
I have 4 fish in quarantine at present. Powder Blue Tang, Blue Hippo Tang, Lavender Tang and a six line wrasse. The Powder Blue and Hippo are brushing their sides up against PVC and heater cords. I have yet to see any white spots. These fish have been in quarantine for 4 days so far. If they are rubbing their sides because of ich, when will there be visible signs of the ich. And would it be ok to start lowering my salinity now in case they do develop the white spots.
I'd hold off awhile longer on the the salinity lowering. Slightly lowered salinity doesn't eradicate ich unless it is brought down to 1.009.
Fish do scratch and it can be for many reasons just keep an eye on them at present and see if more positive signs of an infection show up; i.e. spots, whitish vail, gill inflammation, refusal to eat, dashing about or other erratic behavior.
Fish do scratch and it can be for many reasons just keep an eye on them at present and see if more positive signs of an infection show up; i.e. spots, whitish vail, gill inflammation, refusal to eat, dashing about or other erratic behavior.
MarcB
New member
Ok, despite some diligence on my part, I may have ich in my tank now. My options are to wait and see if the fish can fend it off ( so far they are) or remove them and treat in a HT. I do still have my old 40 gal, so I theoretically can treat, but getting the fish out of a fully scaped 240 gallon tank will not be fun.
Doing some research, I ran across this product that says it is 'reef safe,' any opinions?
-----------
No-ICH Marine
Scientifically formulated Reef-Safe water treatment for Cryptocaryon irritans (marine “white spotâ€Â) and Ichthyopthirius multifiliis (freshwater ich). Engineered to attack the infectious free swimming stage of the ich life cycle and rid the aquarium of these harmful parasites. No-Ich is safe for all fish, invertebrates, corals, plants and biological filtration systems. 100% copper and malachite free solution. One liter treats up to 100 gallons. Self-Dosing bottle makes measuring and application simple and easy.
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Doing some research, I ran across this product that says it is 'reef safe,' any opinions?
-----------
No-ICH Marine
Scientifically formulated Reef-Safe water treatment for Cryptocaryon irritans (marine “white spotâ€Â) and Ichthyopthirius multifiliis (freshwater ich). Engineered to attack the infectious free swimming stage of the ich life cycle and rid the aquarium of these harmful parasites. No-Ich is safe for all fish, invertebrates, corals, plants and biological filtration systems. 100% copper and malachite free solution. One liter treats up to 100 gallons. Self-Dosing bottle makes measuring and application simple and easy.
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Taqpol
New member
This might be a long winded post, but I want to explain the whole situation as the events of the past few days have really caught me off guard...
I started a twenty gallon tank in May of last year, and after it had fully cycled added one bicolor blenny (yep, straight to the tank). About a month after him I added two clownfish to the tank, again with no quarantine. I didnt read much on the forums back then, but these three fish were the only residents of the 20 gallon for about four months and there wasnt a single sign of ich so I called that good enough for a QT.
Soon I was moving up to a 38 gallon tank with a 20 sump. I made a somewhat spur of the moment purchase (bad) with a Coral Beauty angelfish, but this fish was properly QT'd for four weeks and also showed no symptoms of ich before spending a brief stint in the 20 gallon before all the fish were transferred to the fully cycled 38.
In January I picked up a Schooling Bannerfish (Heniochus diphreutes, the "reef safe" one) and started it in a QT tank. About three weeks later I picked up a GBTA and added it to the DT. Things went downhill with the nem and I think it had something to do with my clownfish harassing it before it was ready, so I decided to swap the Heni in QT (at three weeks...) with the clowns and let the nem rest. I did this because I had literally been watching the Heni at the LFS since Early December and he was eating great and showing no signs of disease. Eventually the clowns got moved back in.
About two weeks ago my bicolor blenny started looking bad (lost color in his black part, started looking grayish). Upon closer inspection he had a showering of white salt crystal sized specks on him (I always thought that ich's white spots were bigger, oops). A few days later the Heni started to appear the same (faded black parts, white spots). Both fish showed no odd behavior, still swam in the water column, ate food out of my hand, everything. I decided to keep up my feedings (Formula two flakes, mysis soaked in selcon) and let them fight the disease on their own.
Sunday I found my blennies half-eaten body on the sand. This morning (Tuesday) I found the Heni stuck to a powerhead, I removed him to the fuge for closer monitoring/ease of feeding and it died a few hours later. In both cases the fishes were swimming and eating as they always did, and then dropped dead so quickly! These are my first two fish losses, so I'm pretty bummed out.
My question is, what did I do wrong? In 6-8 weeks can i add new fish to this tank given that the CB angel and clownfishes look perfect? It almost seems that for a QT to be effective you would have to do Hypo every time...
I started a twenty gallon tank in May of last year, and after it had fully cycled added one bicolor blenny (yep, straight to the tank). About a month after him I added two clownfish to the tank, again with no quarantine. I didnt read much on the forums back then, but these three fish were the only residents of the 20 gallon for about four months and there wasnt a single sign of ich so I called that good enough for a QT.
Soon I was moving up to a 38 gallon tank with a 20 sump. I made a somewhat spur of the moment purchase (bad) with a Coral Beauty angelfish, but this fish was properly QT'd for four weeks and also showed no symptoms of ich before spending a brief stint in the 20 gallon before all the fish were transferred to the fully cycled 38.
In January I picked up a Schooling Bannerfish (Heniochus diphreutes, the "reef safe" one) and started it in a QT tank. About three weeks later I picked up a GBTA and added it to the DT. Things went downhill with the nem and I think it had something to do with my clownfish harassing it before it was ready, so I decided to swap the Heni in QT (at three weeks...) with the clowns and let the nem rest. I did this because I had literally been watching the Heni at the LFS since Early December and he was eating great and showing no signs of disease. Eventually the clowns got moved back in.
About two weeks ago my bicolor blenny started looking bad (lost color in his black part, started looking grayish). Upon closer inspection he had a showering of white salt crystal sized specks on him (I always thought that ich's white spots were bigger, oops). A few days later the Heni started to appear the same (faded black parts, white spots). Both fish showed no odd behavior, still swam in the water column, ate food out of my hand, everything. I decided to keep up my feedings (Formula two flakes, mysis soaked in selcon) and let them fight the disease on their own.
Sunday I found my blennies half-eaten body on the sand. This morning (Tuesday) I found the Heni stuck to a powerhead, I removed him to the fuge for closer monitoring/ease of feeding and it died a few hours later. In both cases the fishes were swimming and eating as they always did, and then dropped dead so quickly! These are my first two fish losses, so I'm pretty bummed out.
My question is, what did I do wrong? In 6-8 weeks can i add new fish to this tank given that the CB angel and clownfishes look perfect? It almost seems that for a QT to be effective you would have to do Hypo every time...
MarcB
New member
I wanted to add to this since I haven't got an answer yet, since I have some more info I want to check.
The fish in my tank are 2 Diamond Gobies, 1 Ocelaris Clown, 1 Flame Angel, 1 Coral Beauty, 1 Yellow Tang, 1 Powder Brown Tang, 1 Rainfordi Gobi.
First, only the Angels and the Powder Brown are showing any signs of ich. Are any of these fish considered 'immune' to ich?
Second, are any of these species sensitive to copper, or is copper or hypo safe for all these species?
That should cover all my treatment options, and I'll take it from there.
Thanks!!!
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