How to build a CO2 regulator for your calcium reactor.
- Thread starter alanle
- Start date
solitude127
Proud user of IO Salt!
I never thought about using a paintball tank. How big is it and how long do you think it would last?
salty joe
Active member
Is this check valve/bubble counter any good?
https://www.amazon.com/Metal-Bubble...520033569&sr=8-4&keywords=ista+bubble+counter
https://www.amazon.com/Metal-Bubble...520033569&sr=8-4&keywords=ista+bubble+counter
LQT
Active member
That Ista bubble counter is the one most commonly used. However, they should be swapped out every year IMO as I don’t trust the quality of it’s internal check valve. I’m not a fan of those and would rather use the bubble counter on my CaRx. Having that bubble counter fluid fluid that close to my expensive needle valve makes me nervous. Intead, I rely on the CaRx bubble counter and attach one of these, more reliable CO2 check valves inline.
https://www.marinedepot.com/Dennerl...or_Aquariums-Dennerle-DE1111-FICOCACV-vi.html
https://www.marinedepot.com/Dennerl...or_Aquariums-Dennerle-DE1111-FICOCACV-vi.html
LQT
Active member
On the Burkert 6011 solenoid valve, “P” is the inlet and “A” is the outlet. See post #1 in the beginning of this thread where Alan goes over the assembly of parts.
That's a handsome unit-I especially like the sky high shot.
Is the regulator two stage?
It's a single stage mini reg. It was designed for kegerator.
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salty joe
Active member
The little 'weatherhead' on my Burkert solenoid says, "0-250V AC/DC" which seems odd, seems like it should be either AC or DC. IDK. Anyway the cord has three wires- red, black and green. It was sold as AC. I need to connect a plug to the cord. Green is ground but I'm not sure about the black and red wires. Any help to sort this out would be much appreciated.
I couldn't find the answer when I searched this thread, hoping someone can help.
I couldn't find the answer when I searched this thread, hoping someone can help.
salty joe
Active member
Yeah with DC, but what throws me is this is supposed to be an AC solenoid. It has a ground wire and everything I've goofed with that was DC only had a red positive wire and a black negative wire-just those two.
With AC, the black is hot with a white neutral and green ground. So the three wire setup makes me believe it is an AC solenoid. If that's the case, maybe it doesn't matter how the black and red wires are connected to hot and neutral.
With AC, the black is hot with a white neutral and green ground. So the three wire setup makes me believe it is an AC solenoid. If that's the case, maybe it doesn't matter how the black and red wires are connected to hot and neutral.
I am having this same issue with sporadic bubble counts. I also have mine setup via my apex and programmed to turn the solenoid off when it reaches 7.1PH however even when the outlet is off bubbles still occasional get into the reactor and usually pushes the PH .1 lower than the Apex setpoint. Is this normal?
solitude127
Proud user of IO Salt!
Do you have a check valve on your CO2 line? If so, how old is it? Inconsistent bubbles may be due to a faulty check valve.
Yes, I do have a check valve, the one that came with my GEO 624 Calcium reactor, 3 months old.
Shall I assume that if the check valve is working and the Burket Solenoid is working properly and in the off state that there should be no CO2 Gas entering the reactor?
solitude127
Proud user of IO Salt!
What's the output pressure of your regulator? Also, what the breaking point of your check valve? If the output pressure of the regulator is close to the breaking point of the check valve, then you might get inconsistent bubbles as well.
When the solenoid closes, there is still gas in the line and still entering the reactor. For my Burkert, after the solenoid turns off, the bubble slow drastically and in about 15 - 20 seconds no bubbles at all.
Good to know, what should the output of the regulator be, I think I am at 50PSI right now. Out of town so can't confirm. Is that too high?
salty joe
Active member
I just talked to the people at Burkert and sure enough, it's a DC solenoid-it takes 24V. They said the ground doesn't need to be connected. I've yet to see a wall wart with a ground...Why the 'weatherhead' on the solenoid says 0-250V AC/DC is beyond me. I must admit the label on the weatherhead did say 24V DC but had some crud on it and was hard to read after I cleaned it...
This was sold as an AC solenoid. I sure am glad the person who ruined their solenoid posted and I found it when I searched the thread. Hooking this up to AC would be such an easy mistake to make.
Thanks all.
