How to build a CO2 regulator for your calcium reactor.

whThat looks like a rebranded Airgas into an ABCO regulator. Unfortunately, aIm not familiar with ABCO’s numbers. Got a picture?

By the ABCO numbers, I’m guessing that the low pressure gauge is 0-200 psi and the nut and nipple is a 540 which is for nitrogen
 
Unfortunately no. The Airgas numbers I know are Y12 -denoting dual stage, then the letters A - D, denoting working pressure, followed by the number for the CGA fitting.
 
Better to use 1/8" or 1/4". Back in this this thread somewhere, there was an eBay guy building full regulators with 1/16" metering valves that Alanle didn't seem to like how delicate the 1/16" metering valves were and advised against them.
 
I am running a GEO 612 with a masterflex pump. The masterflex is pulling through the reactor. I have noticed that when I turn the co2 off, the water slowly moves up the co2 tubing towards the regulator. I placed a 5lb brass check valve right after the regulator needle valve. My concern is that the masterflex is creating a vacuum which opens the check valve with the co2 turned off. The water can then back flow through the vacuum. This only occurs when the co2 is turned off. (I am only turning the co2 off because I am trying to tune the reactor and when the Alk rises too high, I turn the co2 off until it drops then I turn it on and adjust it again.)

Also I am on metering valve #2 and can barely get any control over the bubble rate. I am using a Swagelok SS-SS4-A I can just barely crack the needle valve and it bubbles. If I move the meter 1/32 of an inch it changes the flow drastically. Its difficult to get the reactor dialed in because I am constantly messing with the metering valve. I am also not getting a consistent bubble rate. I will get a large bubble then a couple small bubbles, then nothing for a bit then a large bubble, and so on.
 
biglurr54 said:
I am running a GEO 612 with a masterflex pump. The masterflex is pulling through the reactor. I have noticed that when I turn the co2 off, the water slowly moves up the co2 tubing towards the regulator. I placed a 5lb brass check valve right after the regulator needle valve. My concern is that the masterflex is creating a vacuum which opens the check valve with the co2 turned off. The water can then back flow through the vacuum.
Click to expand...

I think that your check valve is too high actuation pressure. If there is a vacuum from the masterflex, and it is pulling, then there would never really be a reason for water to flow up the CO2 line. I would replace with a smaller plastic check valve, and/or double-check that you're using the check valve in the correct orientation. I had to ditch the first check valve I was using (that was the higher quality one) because I noticed it was allowing the slightest trickle backwards (when the masterflex was off and the CO2 was off).

biglurr54 said:
Also I am on metering valve #2 and can barely get any control over the bubble rate. I am using a Swagelok SS-SS4-A I can just barely crack the needle valve and it bubbles. If I move the meter 1/32 of an inch it changes the flow drastically. Its difficult to get the reactor dialed in because I am constantly messing with the metering valve. I am also not getting a consistent bubble rate. I will get a large bubble then a couple small bubbles, then nothing for a bit then a large bubble, and so on.
Click to expand...

Since these friggin valves cost ~$75 or more, I hesitate to suggest it, but people have suggested to me that some of the reason I have a hard time with mine, is because the pin in the valve may be bent or damaged from over pressure. That may be the case for you. I have a weird issue that in the bubble counter, which is filled with water, I get a small stream of microbubbles at low flow (where it is currently set), and then it will only start bubbling fully once it gets to a higher flow point than I need (I want to say >20bpm). But lower than that flow point, it's just a strange constant stream of microbubbles.

What pressure are you outputting from the tank? I try to keep mine below 15PSI (optimally 12psi) since that's the technical operating pressure for the Swagelock low flow valve.
 
I've been running mine at 8 psi. I might increase it to get the right psi.

Any proven check valves?

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Has anyone tried using one of the cheap hobby grade needle valves?

They are used on alot of other regulators and I'm wondering if they will suffice. I have over $100 on needle valves and don't have much control. If I bought a Milwaukee reg it would come with a cheap needle valve and plenty of people use them.

Also are the check valves in the bubble counters acceptable? I might add a bubble counter to the regulator

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I am struggling to get my Co2 regulator to function properly. My Regulator is an Air Gas B2-30 dual stage regulator my Solenoid is a Burkett 6011 and my metering valve is a Swalgelok SS-SS2-A. Its on a 10lb tank and it is regulated to 12lbs. I find the set pressure changes and it slowly drifts down over time. (2-3 days it will go from 14lbs to 10lbs) The same thing happens with my bubble count and my ph in the reactor. I set the bubble rate and keep an eye on it for 2-3 hours to make sure everything is stable. Then I let it sit for 24 hours with no adjustments. The pH always goes down. I have been trying to get it to hold a bubble rate and pressure since I set it up at Christmas. When I think I have it set up and working, the ph will rise up without any intervention.

I cant seem to get it balanced and my ph is all over the place. I am tempted to set it at a fast bubble count and let the solenoid do the work via the Ph controller.

I have checked the regulator for internal leaks. I have set the regulator at a certain pressure and then left it for a week at that setting (Started at 10lbs and ended up with under 5lbs which wasn’t enough to open the check valve.) The CO2 is food grade. Unknown what was in the bottle before. I have noticed that if I open the needle valve then adjust it down it seems to clear out and work for a bit. Another thing that I have noticed is every time I adjust the needle valve, the outlet pressure changes.
 
For your leak test procedure, did you follow the instructions on post #12 on page 1 of this thread?
 
Did you leak test it again after the regulator build was complete? Cuz with what you’re describing, it sure does sound like there’s a leak somewhere, maybe in a fitting perhaps?
 
I haven't tried a leak test after the build. I will do one tonight when I get home. I will also do a soap and water test.

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Found a leak on the compression fitting going into the check valve. Tightened it and the leak stopped. All other areas were leak free. I tuned it in and it is holding the pH and bubble count. We shall see how it does over the next few days. It also seemed to adjust better with the needle valve.
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