I got a LUX meater, here are my readings.

[Wiskey]

I got a lux meater, and I took readings for my tank, what do you think? I keep SPS and I beleave these may be a little low.

Thanks,
Whiskey

 

[clkwrk]

I thinks is low IMO here is my readings same meter . 2 tanks both 14k phx Difference is the 120 has 3 and their in Reef optix pendants w/ice caps and the my others are ocean lights with magnetics. All lights are 6 inches off the water.

 

[Weatherman]

Re: I got a LUX meater, here are my readings.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6502601#post6502601 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Wiskey
I got a lux meater, and I took readings for my tank, what do you think? I keep SPS and I beleave these may be a little low.

I agree, they are low.

If the meter is accurate, you should be getting something in the 15,000 to 25,000 range at mid levels in your tank. This would convert to something around 200-350 PAR depending on the spectrum of the bulb.

 

[clkwrk]

Hey weatherman can you dirrect me to the info on how to convert or atleast make readable par from lux.

I was actually surprised with my readings considering my Phx 14k are 9 months old. To even make things more interesting I was really baffled at the reading I got over the softie tank . I was getting 12,000 lux in the top six inches while I was getting 10,000 dow at the bottom of my sps tank . Does water clarity make that bigg of a difference or do you think its just because Reefoptix pendants are so darn good

TIA

 

[Weatherman]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6503121#post6503121 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by clkwrk
Hey weatherman can you dirrect me to the info on how to convert or atleast make readable par from lux.

I was actually surprised with my readings considering my Phx 14k are 9 months old. To even make things more interesting I was really baffled at the reading I got over the softie tank . I was getting 12,000 lux in the top six inches while I was getting 10,000 dow at the bottom of my sps tank . Does water clarity make that bigg of a difference or do you think its just because Reefoptix pendants are so darn good

TIA

Here's the reference I use:

http://www.apogee-inst.com/conv_lux.htm


Reefoptix pendants are good. I get the same response with PFO Minis. The reflectors on both are very good at focusing light down into the tank.

 

[asnatlas]

If one was looking for a LUX meter, what would one be looking for ??

Here is a link I found, I was looking at the LX-1108 Lux / Footcandle Meter that is on sale (second from the bottom)...

ECONOMICAL LIGHT METER MODELS

 

[Pyrrhus]

looks decent if the probe is submersible.

 

[Pyrrhus]

The readings that you took definitely look low to me, the 150w 20k coralifes put out about as much power as what you have. Given, that is 3" off the water, but i would never keep SPS under that lighting.

 

[Wiskey]

Ok, due to these responces I made a couple of changes to my hood which aloud me to drop the bulb a full 8 inches, it is now sitting 8 inches off the water (half the hight). My hood looks like crap now, but here are my readings.

I would say I now have an average of about 10,000 LUX, or 140 par. If I can figure out how to use my reflector with this configuration I think I would be even better off.

Does it still need to get better? If so it involves a lot of money.

Thanks,
Whiskey

 

[clkwrk]

Thanks Weatherman

 

[Wiskey]

Ok, due to the lack of responces to the second set of numbers I take it that it still needs to get better . I might be able to borrow a second 250W MH fixture with a diffrent type of bulb (hamelton 14K) This should really make a diffrence.

The corals won't care that one half of the tank is 10K and the other half is 14K will they? (stupid question I know but I had to ask because I know I will care)

How should I acclamate to the new light? Do you think 2*250 over a 50G is redickulos?

Do you think my SPS will go into shock over all the new light?

Thanks,
Whiskey

 

[Weatherman]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6505804#post6505804 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Wiskey
Ok, due to the lack of responces to the second set of numbers I take it that it still needs to get better . I might be able to borrow a second 250W MH fixture with a diffrent type of bulb (hamelton 14K) This should really make a diffrence.

The corals won't care that one half of the tank is 10K and the other half is 14K will they? (stupid question I know but I had to ask because I know I will care)

How should I acclamate to the new light? Do you think 2*250 over a 50G is redickulos?

Do you think my SPS will go into shock over all the new light?

Thanks,
Whiskey

The challenge you have is your 50G is 48" in length. (My 120 is 48" in length, also.)

Over my 120, I have two 250-watt 10,000K bulbs in PFO Minipendants. The tank is 24" deep. With an 18" deep tank, I'd go with 14,000K bulbs instead, but still keep them at 250 watts.

I'd say, two 250-watt bulbs with a good reflector, is the minimum needed. You might be able to get away with 150-watt bulbs if you went with 10,000K, and lowered the bulbs closer to the water surface.

As for using one 10,000K bulb and one 14,000 bulb, it shouldn't matter, as long as you don't swap the bulbs back and forth frequently.

With the extra light, just raise the bulbs higher above the water and reduce the photoperiod. Gradually lower the bulbs and increase the photoperiod as your coral get used to the higher light.

 

[onthefly]

Whiskey - I know I've read this in another thread, but what was the lighting that you took the original reading? 10kK or 14kK? SE or DE? M58 or e-ballast?

 

[Wiskey]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6505975#post6505975 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Weatherman
The challenge you have is your 50G is 48" in length. (My 120 is 48" in length, also.)

Over my 120, I have two 250-watt 10,000K bulbs in PFO Minipendants. The tank is 24" deep. With an 18" deep tank, I'd go with 14,000K bulbs instead, but still keep them at 250 watts.

I'd say, two 250-watt bulbs with a good reflector, is the minimum needed. You might be able to get away with 150-watt bulbs if you went with 10,000K, and lowered the bulbs closer to the water surface.

As for using one 10,000K bulb and one 14,000 bulb, it shouldn't matter, as long as you don't swap the bulbs back and forth frequently.

With the extra light, just raise the bulbs higher above the water and reduce the photoperiod. Gradually lower the bulbs and increase the photoperiod as your coral get used to the higher light.

Thanks for the suggestions/comments/help. I still have not been able to get ahold of my friend with the extra light, but I will keep trying .

Thanks,
Whiskey

 

[Wiskey]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6506368#post6506368 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by onthefly
Whiskey - I know I've read this in another thread, but what was the lighting that you took the original reading? 10kK or 14kK? SE or DE? M58 or e-ballast?

I am currently running a single XM 10K, SE on a M58 magnetic balast. But there are a couple of problems with this, I am trying to streach this light over 4 feet, and the bulb is directally over a 2 inch BLACK centre brace.

Thanks,
Whiskey

 

[Wiskey]

I took my light and put it over 1/2 my tank, like there are 2 on it. I am getting a solid 10,000 or above in each spot I test, except for a couple of shadows. The highest is around 19,000 this is a lot closer to what my friends are running. Until I get the second light I am going to run the bulb over 1/2 the tank for 4 hours, and then over the other half for 4 hours, this will be a good way to acclimate anyway.

Thanks,
Whiskey

 

[Wiskey]

Btw, I would say 15,000 is the average, this is a par of 211, so this fits into Weatherman's recomendation.

Thanks,
Whiskey

 

[Wiskey]

I installed a second MH over my tank, the readings are now a lot closer to Clkwrk's. What do you think?

Thanks,
Whiskey

 

[clkwrk]

That looks better

 

[Pyrrhus]

definitlely looking better, make sure to watch your alk since calcification is probably gonig to increase once your corals adapt.