It begins... 345-gallon Starphire in-wall system
- Thread starter mrcrab
- Start date
mrcrab
In Memoriam
Been busy lately and waiting for the cycle to finish.
Got some of the lighting on. Just running 4 X 54w T5's at the moment. After the lights were on I noticed 2 small scrathes in the glass! :furious: I'm sure I'll be the only one to notice though.
I'll be adding my Maristar unit to it after I move everything from the 120 into they're new home.
Got some of the lighting on. Just running 4 X 54w T5's at the moment. After the lights were on I noticed 2 small scrathes in the glass! :furious: I'm sure I'll be the only one to notice though.
I'll be adding my Maristar unit to it after I move everything from the 120 into they're new home.
mrcrab
In Memoriam
Sparkss,
I would think you could do what you suggest. The problem with an existing wall is that it's difficult to get straight cuts on the drywall. Shouldn't be a problem though if you'll be covering the seams with the framing. The cut to the existing drywall could be covered with and edge strip to protect it. I'd probably go with green board, it's actually purple now, for the insert or maybe even MDF. Just not sure abot the MDF with the moisture.
I would think you could do what you suggest. The problem with an existing wall is that it's difficult to get straight cuts on the drywall. Shouldn't be a problem though if you'll be covering the seams with the framing. The cut to the existing drywall could be covered with and edge strip to protect it. I'd probably go with green board, it's actually purple now, for the insert or maybe even MDF. Just not sure abot the MDF with the moisture.
I have a plan to try to get those straight cuts 
. I am going to use a trim router bit to cut the sheetrock for the opening, using the top of the stand for the bottom "line". I was also thinking about using 2x4s or 4x4s along the sides and bottom for the router bit to ride on to "box in" the opening a little, similar to what your end result was. The top cut will be flush with the bottom of the header since I still want to have the tank front accessible.
. I am going to use a trim router bit to cut the sheetrock for the opening, using the top of the stand for the bottom "line". I was also thinking about using 2x4s or 4x4s along the sides and bottom for the router bit to ride on to "box in" the opening a little, similar to what your end result was. The top cut will be flush with the bottom of the header since I still want to have the tank front accessible.
Modemagic
Premium Member
This is a thread I can relate too... I'm currently in the process of remodeling my diningroom, (I just finished flinging up drywall for the last 8 hours or so) in which I'm doing something similar.
I'm aiming for a 120 in-wall setup and want a picture frame look. I never thought of the matte-look though, although I don't have the room for it since my wall and door trim is too close to accomplish that. Mine is unique in the fact that I'm drywalling over the top of the lathe because i am keeping the baseboards and trim on without removing them. I would never be able to get them back on without breaking them and they would never look right.
My plan is to put a piece of 3/4 directly under the front of the tank so that it will sit on that and bring the drywall under it rather then having the front edge of the tank resting on the drywall. With the tank then flush with the drywall, i was going to take a trim of some sort, cut it like a picture frame such as you did, and instant picture.
While doing my research, people commented on with the 4" or so of the front of the tank covered, lighting may be an issue... have you ran into that? When i looked into it, i was thinking about running a 55gallon setup, then decided to bet the farm on a 120
I'm aiming for a 120 in-wall setup and want a picture frame look. I never thought of the matte-look though, although I don't have the room for it since my wall and door trim is too close to accomplish that. Mine is unique in the fact that I'm drywalling over the top of the lathe because i am keeping the baseboards and trim on without removing them. I would never be able to get them back on without breaking them and they would never look right.
My plan is to put a piece of 3/4 directly under the front of the tank so that it will sit on that and bring the drywall under it rather then having the front edge of the tank resting on the drywall. With the tank then flush with the drywall, i was going to take a trim of some sort, cut it like a picture frame such as you did, and instant picture.
While doing my research, people commented on with the 4" or so of the front of the tank covered, lighting may be an issue... have you ran into that? When i looked into it, i was thinking about running a 55gallon setup, then decided to bet the farm on a 120
DaCourtjester22
In Memoriam
looks really nice
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8769033#post8769033 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Modemagic
While doing my research, people commented on with the 4" or so of the front of the tank covered, lighting may be an issue... have you ran into that? When i looked into it, i was thinking about running a 55gallon setup, then decided to bet the farm on a 120
I have seen people slant cut the header to get around this, but we had another plan. Not sure if mrcrab needed to, but if we ended up needing it we are going to mount a T5 reflector to the header, over thr front of the tank, the size is just about right to fit into that space.
mrcrab
In Memoriam
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8769033#post8769033 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Modemagic
While doing my research, people commented on with the 4" or so of the front of the tank covered, lighting may be an issue... have you ran into that? When i looked into it, i was thinking about running a 55gallon setup, then decided to bet the farm on a 120
Your plan should work. I decided against doing it that way just because of the logistics of the stand and bringing it flush with the wall.
What are the dimensions of your 120? I would go a deep, front to back as possible. I was limited to only 30" because of an exterior door leading into the garage.
As far as the lighting, I decided to try and keep the perimeter shaded a bit so that I wasn't constantly cleaning coralline off the glass. I also wanted to use my existing 6' Maristar unit. My rock work is 6" away from the front and back glass and 8" away from the sides. I've supplimented the Maristar lighting with 4 X 54W T5's, 2 along the front and the back. Most of my light is cincentrated at the middle of the tank especially the MH's. The shadow effect also gives the appearance of greater depth.
mrcrab
In Memoriam
originally posted 8/30/06:
Tank's done and curing. Pickup the end of next week. Hopefully no more storms between now and then!
Here's some new pics of the completed build. Still needs to be cleaned up. And yes the cross bracing is not evenly spaced, that's by design. I'm putting my 6' Marisatr unit over it and didn't want the halides over the glass.
Tank Done Rear
Tank Done Front
Tank's done and curing. Pickup the end of next week. Hopefully no more storms between now and then!
Here's some new pics of the completed build. Still needs to be cleaned up. And yes the cross bracing is not evenly spaced, that's by design. I'm putting my 6' Marisatr unit over it and didn't want the halides over the glass.
Tank Done Rear
Tank Done Front
Modemagic
Premium Member
My revised solution is as follows for my lighting is as follows:
the 120 gallon tank I've chosen is a 48x24x24 standard configuration. For my 2x4 framework I've decided to go with a 2x6 on the bottom with it overhanging the thickness of the existing lathe plus the 1/2" for drywall. the sides will extend on up 12" or so above the top of the tank with a header across the top. Just above the tank running across use a 2x2 to give me a good secure edge to mount my drywall and trim for my frame around it. That will only cover a couple inches of the top of the tank and still give me plenty of room to work. I also considered fiberglassing the wood to help protect it from the water as well. With the header up 12" or so, that gives me plenty of room for my lighting, making height adjustments, etc.
the 120 gallon tank I've chosen is a 48x24x24 standard configuration. For my 2x4 framework I've decided to go with a 2x6 on the bottom with it overhanging the thickness of the existing lathe plus the 1/2" for drywall. the sides will extend on up 12" or so above the top of the tank with a header across the top. Just above the tank running across use a 2x2 to give me a good secure edge to mount my drywall and trim for my frame around it. That will only cover a couple inches of the top of the tank and still give me plenty of room to work. I also considered fiberglassing the wood to help protect it from the water as well. With the header up 12" or so, that gives me plenty of room for my lighting, making height adjustments, etc.
