It begins... 345-gallon Starphire in-wall system
- Thread starter mrcrab
- Start date
mrcrab
In Memoriam
Need some maintenance suggestions from you experienced folks.
How do you vacuum the ditritus out of your sumps? The 1st compartment with the skimmer isn't a problem as that's the compartment I use for water changes, so when I dump the water I just shop vac it out. I do get a collection in what will be my grow out and also the return area. The sump is on the ground, so a siphon won't work. I have a 350 magnum, but that is a real PITA.
Do you folks use filter socks? If so what size micron? I'm afraid of loosing pods to the socks.
I've got a 2 - 2 1/2" sb that's collecting some junk. I'd like to vacuum this at times also. I'm thinking siphon with a sock will work fine here. Any other suggestions?
Blowing off the rock work. I used a RIO 1300 today and have one heck of a ditritus storm. I threw a 25 micron sock on the overflow so that It'd catch alot of that before it settled in the sump. I also think the RIO will be a bit too strong once the corals are in. Any other plans?
Thanks all.
How do you vacuum the ditritus out of your sumps? The 1st compartment with the skimmer isn't a problem as that's the compartment I use for water changes, so when I dump the water I just shop vac it out. I do get a collection in what will be my grow out and also the return area. The sump is on the ground, so a siphon won't work. I have a 350 magnum, but that is a real PITA.
Do you folks use filter socks? If so what size micron? I'm afraid of loosing pods to the socks.
I've got a 2 - 2 1/2" sb that's collecting some junk. I'd like to vacuum this at times also. I'm thinking siphon with a sock will work fine here. Any other suggestions?
Blowing off the rock work. I used a RIO 1300 today and have one heck of a ditritus storm. I threw a 25 micron sock on the overflow so that It'd catch alot of that before it settled in the sump. I also think the RIO will be a bit too strong once the corals are in. Any other plans?
Thanks all.
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
If there's a limited amount of detritus, you can use a large baster. Just don't get caught using the family turkey baster on Christmas
You can also use the baster to blast detritus out of your live rock. You'll be surprised how much comes out when you pump it a few times in the holes of your rock.
You can also use the baster to blast detritus out of your live rock. You'll be surprised how much comes out when you pump it a few times in the holes of your rock.
jnarowe
New member
Actually I used bilge paint on the walls and ceiling and fiberglass resin on the stand sans fiberglass.
As far as removing detritus from the sump, I would use a mag pump and appropriate sized vacuum tube with a filter sock for discharge. That way you can discharge back into the sump or into a bucket. Same for the display. You may lose a fe wpods but if you have a good system the losses won't amount to any appreciable percentage.
As far as removing detritus from the sump, I would use a mag pump and appropriate sized vacuum tube with a filter sock for discharge. That way you can discharge back into the sump or into a bucket. Same for the display. You may lose a fe wpods but if you have a good system the losses won't amount to any appreciable percentage.
mrcrab
In Memoriam
Ahhh...didn't think of that. Thanks Mr. Wilson.
Jonathan, I'll have to go back and reread. I thought he was talking about FGing the header.
I don't have a problem using the sock while vacuuming, it's not on there long enough. I was concerned about using a sock all the time on my overflow line to keep the detritus out of the sump completely.
Jonathan, I'll have to go back and reread. I thought he was talking about FGing the header.
I don't have a problem using the sock while vacuuming, it's not on there long enough. I was concerned about using a sock all the time on my overflow line to keep the detritus out of the sump completely.
jnarowe
New member
My tank is too deep and my python won't overcome the head pressure without a pump. Otherwise I get very little flow and it doesn't pick up much. Because of the size of my tank, when I vacuum the effluent goes into a sock and back into the system.
As you can see by the time I posted last, the odds are I was confused, and not you.
I can't imagine FGing the header unless it was left open over the tank. That doesn';t make a lot of sense to me, but I am not on-site to see what he is doing. Every install is a bit different of course, but I wouldn't use FG because it makes mechanical connections more difficult and I am always leary about it delaminating and trapping moisture in. If I felt there was an issue with my header, I would have oiled it to repel water.
As you can see by the time I posted last, the odds are I was confused, and not you.
I can't imagine FGing the header unless it was left open over the tank. That doesn';t make a lot of sense to me, but I am not on-site to see what he is doing. Every install is a bit different of course, but I wouldn't use FG because it makes mechanical connections more difficult and I am always leary about it delaminating and trapping moisture in. If I felt there was an issue with my header, I would have oiled it to repel water.
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
I find that filter socks plug up too quickly for constant use. After a few days, they become merely a method of minimizing bubbles from the drain effluent, which isn't a bad second function. I use them to polish the water every week for a day. Polyester fiber fill works with weekly (or sooner) changing.
Back when we didn't have adequate means of importing nutrients for invertebrates, mechanical filters were taboo, as they robbed corals of suspended foods (primarily detritus). With todays viable foods like zooplankton, phytoplankton, Polyp Labs Reef Roids, Argents Cyclops, and DT's products we no longer need to rely on suspended detritus to feed our corals.
Modern flow patterns and rates also keep foods suspended longer so corals get a fair chance to utilize nutrients before they're exported or trapped. With these new flow dynamics comes a subsequent demand to mechanically remove an excess of suspended matter.
I use a flow rate of 20-40 times the volume of the tank, along with Oceans Motions 4-Way wave generators. The side effect is a snow globe appearance due to suspended detritus (marine snow of sorts). This is a good thing, as I no longer have detritus settling in the substrate. In the absence of a mechanical filter, detritus is exported by the protein skimmer, but it can only remove so much. As a result the refugium & sump becomes a mechanical filter by default.
Another practice is to use detrivores in you sump. Some people use hitchhikers like crabs and starfish (particularly the green ones that eat fish), while others use assorted benthic invertebrates like worms, squirts, and sponges. A conspecific zone can be maintained with xenia, anemones, or colonial polyps to reduce & remove detritus as it becomes available in the sump or overflow.
Regardless of how you set it up, your going to have to roll up your sleeves eventually, but we all want to delay that as much as possible.
Back when we didn't have adequate means of importing nutrients for invertebrates, mechanical filters were taboo, as they robbed corals of suspended foods (primarily detritus). With todays viable foods like zooplankton, phytoplankton, Polyp Labs Reef Roids, Argents Cyclops, and DT's products we no longer need to rely on suspended detritus to feed our corals.
Modern flow patterns and rates also keep foods suspended longer so corals get a fair chance to utilize nutrients before they're exported or trapped. With these new flow dynamics comes a subsequent demand to mechanically remove an excess of suspended matter.
I use a flow rate of 20-40 times the volume of the tank, along with Oceans Motions 4-Way wave generators. The side effect is a snow globe appearance due to suspended detritus (marine snow of sorts). This is a good thing, as I no longer have detritus settling in the substrate. In the absence of a mechanical filter, detritus is exported by the protein skimmer, but it can only remove so much. As a result the refugium & sump becomes a mechanical filter by default.
Another practice is to use detrivores in you sump. Some people use hitchhikers like crabs and starfish (particularly the green ones that eat fish), while others use assorted benthic invertebrates like worms, squirts, and sponges. A conspecific zone can be maintained with xenia, anemones, or colonial polyps to reduce & remove detritus as it becomes available in the sump or overflow.
Regardless of how you set it up, your going to have to roll up your sleeves eventually, but we all want to delay that as much as possible.
mrcrab
In Memoriam
Thanks Mr. Wilson. (Why do I feel like Dennis the Menace?)
I put a 25 micron sock on after the storm. It's cleared up very well.
I was thinking of getting a sand sifting cuke for the tank. Any recommendations? I'm not particularly fond of crabs, I think I'll just stay with a few varieties of snails.
Jonathan, I think the powerhead vacuum into the sock is the way to go on the tank. To tank care of the sump, I think I'll just throw a sock on, crank up the vortechs and stir up the sump.
I put a 25 micron sock on after the storm. It's cleared up very well.
I was thinking of getting a sand sifting cuke for the tank. Any recommendations? I'm not particularly fond of crabs, I think I'll just stay with a few varieties of snails.
Jonathan, I think the powerhead vacuum into the sock is the way to go on the tank. To tank care of the sump, I think I'll just throw a sock on, crank up the vortechs and stir up the sump.
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
The caribbean cucumbers are less toxic and won't kill anything if/when they die. I really like having a pair of sleeper gobies with a corresponding pistol shrimp.
Couldn't agree more about hermit crabs. Snails are the way to go. Emerald crabs are still good though. Fighting conchs are another good one.
You can bleach the filter sock then dechlorinate it, to re-open the pores. Have a few of them around so you can swap it a couple times a week.
Yeah, I love hearing that "Oh Mr. Wilsonnnn!". I don't think it will be funny anymore when I am an old guy.
mrcrab
In Memoriam
Okay...Sparks is making me look bad here. Time for an update.
I wasn't happy with some of the pillars, wanted more and bigger shelves and I came across some wormrock locally. Pretty cool stuff.
No weight at all to this stuff and very easy to drill, it is a bit fragile though.
Everything is here to move the lights so that's tomorrows job. Don't mind the spaghetti cords and mess in the following pics as that will all be tidied up once the lights are on.
I've got the water top-off system running ala Melev. Nice and simple setup and in the current weather is lasting 5-7 days before I have to refill the top-off reservois (sp).
I wasn't happy with some of the pillars, wanted more and bigger shelves and I came across some wormrock locally. Pretty cool stuff.
No weight at all to this stuff and very easy to drill, it is a bit fragile though.
Everything is here to move the lights so that's tomorrows job. Don't mind the spaghetti cords and mess in the following pics as that will all be tidied up once the lights are on.
I've got the water top-off system running ala Melev. Nice and simple setup and in the current weather is lasting 5-7 days before I have to refill the top-off reservois (sp).
mrcrab
In Memoriam
Frag tank is all set. Put the lights on today. Those are 36" T5's. I had some 48" reflectors I was going to cut down but after trying for awhile decided I'll order the right size on Monday.
Water changes are now a breeze. No more water boy for me. Hook up a hose, turn a few valves and presto...10% water change. The longest thing is waiting for it to drain fom the sump. I'll have to ad a pump there too. Once the sump's empty, only takes 10 minutes for 38 gallons.
50 Gal Salt water holding tank
50 Gal RO/DI holding Tank
Last but not lest some shelve for storage.
In the beginning I thought I would have plenty of room for everything. Now...I don't thing you could ever have enough room.
Off to move some corals to the frag tank to get ready for moving day.
I'll take lots of snaps tomorrow of the lights and evrything so I can update again.
Water changes are now a breeze. No more water boy for me. Hook up a hose, turn a few valves and presto...10% water change. The longest thing is waiting for it to drain fom the sump. I'll have to ad a pump there too. Once the sump's empty, only takes 10 minutes for 38 gallons.
50 Gal Salt water holding tank
50 Gal RO/DI holding Tank
Last but not lest some shelve for storage.
In the beginning I thought I would have plenty of room for everything. Now...I don't thing you could ever have enough room.
Off to move some corals to the frag tank to get ready for moving day.
I'll take lots of snaps tomorrow of the lights and evrything so I can update again.
very cool rock and I like how you are setting everything up . Sorry for making you look bad about the updates , but you will likely be smoking my thread as now I get to wait on the cycles to subside . Although I am going to be aggressive about using as much matured water, LR and LS from our current tanks to get it through the cycles and "over the hump" post haste . We will also be revamping our plumbing and sump setups, so I am going to be taking notes on how you set it all up .
. Sorry for making you look bad about the updates , but you will likely be smoking my thread as now I get to wait on the cycles to subside . Although I am going to be aggressive about using as much matured water, LR and LS from our current tanks to get it through the cycles and "over the hump" post haste . We will also be revamping our plumbing and sump setups, so I am going to be taking notes on how you set it all up .
mrcrab
In Memoriam
Hopefully I'll be done in a few days. I've got redbugs in my current system so I'm going to move all the corals first and treat the big system to get rid of the little buggers. Then I'll move the rest of the livestock after the treatment.
I know it's hard but whatever you do, don't rush it. If you do only bad things will happen.
How do you guys and gals quarantine/dip your corals before you add them to your main sytem?
I know it's hard but whatever you do, don't rush it. If you do only bad things will happen.
How do you guys and gals quarantine/dip your corals before you add them to your main sytem?
