Jeremy's 250g build - Take II
- Thread starter jtarmitage
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jtarmitage
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Well, I tinkered with the drain lines, and while they are much better, it's not an ideal fix. A few issues have come up over the last few days that make the likelihood of selling the house more certain, so I think I'll just leave the sump and plumbing the way they are for now. I'll have new plans whenever we finally do move.
I'm still proceeding with the tank for now, but time will tell.
I'm still proceeding with the tank for now, but time will tell.
jtarmitage
Active member
Thanks guys. It's not a question of if, just how much crap I'm gonna have to deal with in between.
It would also be much easier to deal with without all the non-reef related things going on at the same time.
It would also be much easier to deal with without all the non-reef related things going on at the same time.
kdblove_99
New member
Jt, That is a huge bummer. Sorry to hear. But, I did see you get on the next buy for them
Hope i get my female then. My big boy needs a mate.
Might be getting a sweet tank. will know more after this wekend
Hope i get my female then. My big boy needs a mate.Might be getting a sweet tank. will know more after this wekend
kdblove_99
New member
Wont know until after the weekend wont be a large tank thread. But a little bigger than i have now
jtarmitage
Active member
Jim, one of the ideas that I'm playing with is using a ball valve on the overflow drain to quiet things down. The problem with this idea is that it is possible for the BV to clog and cause the tank to overflow. With my external overflow and the guard, I think it's highly unlikely, but still possible.
What do you think of using on of these:
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/waterwatcher.html
Like what you're using, but mounting the sensor near the top of the overflow box? I've got about 5" above the water line where I could mount it. If the water started to rise, it would cut the power to the return pump. Thoughts?
What do you think of using on of these:
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/waterwatcher.html
Like what you're using, but mounting the sensor near the top of the overflow box? I've got about 5" above the water line where I could mount it. If the water started to rise, it would cut the power to the return pump. Thoughts?
jtarmitage
Active member
I'm also consider splitting the return line at the sump and using dual ball valves, just in case one clogged. As it happens, I've got a couple of BV's that went unused, so at least it wouldn't cost me anything to try this.
Jim_S
Timo Boll
yeah, you should be able to do that. It might be kinda tricky to mount, but nothing you can't accomplish
If you want to stop by and take a look at mine to if it'll fit your needs, just let me know
Quick question, is the overflow loud because the water is dropping far? Or is it your durso "things" (not sure what yours are called)?
jtarmitage
Active member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12734513#post12734513 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Jim_S
yeah, you should be able to do that. It might be kinda tricky to mount, but nothing you can't accomplish
If you want to stop by and take a look at mine to if it'll fit your needs, just let me know
Quick question, is the overflow loud because the water is dropping far? Or is it your durso "things" (not sure what yours are called)?
I'll take you up on the visit, just not sure when.
It's not the CJ standpipes, nor the water falling into the overflow, as the standpipes minimize the drop. It's the water and air mix tumbling through the drain pipes and exiting into the sump. A reverse durso setup mostly worked on the water entering the sump, but not totally, and a filter sock did almost nothing. I'd still like to be able to use filter socks as I please, which is essentially impossible with a reverse durso setup in the sump.
Also, using dual BV's and throttling them back will slow down the water velocity entering the sump, so that's what I'm planning for now. Got to play with it and see what comes of it. The water cut off would just be my backup.
Underwaterparadise
New member
Sounds like a very nice set up. Well thought out as well!!
jtarmitage
Active member
Thanks Rob. I've been planning for quite some time, but I've found a few little details that I would've changed if I had it to do over again. First would be a much less complicated closed loop
and the second major one would have been to locate the sump in the garage like I had originally planned. That would have taken a bit of creativity, but I already see how I should have done it, but I'm not sure I want to go there with the likelihood of selling the house still overhead.
jtarmitage
Active member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12735861#post12735861 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Marko9
How are your levels Jeremy? Are you ready for a school of chromis' yet
Haven't bothered to test yet. I'll see about getting to that tonight. If we go, I'll have to drag the kids with us. Wouldn't mind going up to Marysville as I've yet to make the trek yet.
jtarmitage
Active member
Ooooo, sounds like a fishy trio? Nice!!!!
jtarmitage
Active member
Well, too bad I couldn't make it up to Rob's, but I did pick up 10 chromis for the tank. I've been using a couple of different products to help speed up and lessen the impact of the cycle, and so far all of the readings look pretty good. Amm was detectable, but barely, as it only just registered on the Salifert color chart. Nitrites were undetectable, and everything else was in line.
I did go ahead and install a dual drain with ball valves on the drain line, and the noise is vastly improved. I put a single on the fuge return, and while quiet, produces copious bubbles in the sump, which will give me issues with salt creep on the back wall. I'm thinking of trying essentially a stand pipe on that line, where the water will be forced up a pipe protruding just out of the water, and will spill over the sides to help minimize this issue.
The 2 TLF reactors are also online now, one with carbon and the other with GFO. I'll get pics of the sump as it is now in a few.
On another note, I posted this in the FinsReef forum, as well as sent them an email: This is 2 1/2 days worth:
I'm having this problem every couple of days:
I have to take the lid and clear the air vents really well as the crud keeps clogging them. I've got an A200-2x1260. It seems as though the air vents in the lid should be enlarged, but I hesitate to take a drill to it. Should I enlarge the holes?
I did go ahead and install a dual drain with ball valves on the drain line, and the noise is vastly improved. I put a single on the fuge return, and while quiet, produces copious bubbles in the sump, which will give me issues with salt creep on the back wall. I'm thinking of trying essentially a stand pipe on that line, where the water will be forced up a pipe protruding just out of the water, and will spill over the sides to help minimize this issue.
The 2 TLF reactors are also online now, one with carbon and the other with GFO. I'll get pics of the sump as it is now in a few.
On another note, I posted this in the FinsReef forum, as well as sent them an email: This is 2 1/2 days worth:
I'm having this problem every couple of days:
I have to take the lid and clear the air vents really well as the crud keeps clogging them. I've got an A200-2x1260. It seems as though the air vents in the lid should be enlarged, but I hesitate to take a drill to it. Should I enlarge the holes?
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