JohnL's 20 Gallon Nano Reef

I don't understand the implication of this

It is important to use a mixed bed resin that has the color changing indicator contained within the opposite charge as the single bed. If you are going to use a cation single bed, you will need to use an anion mixed bed resin as the second stage.
 
Single bed resins do require the use of a cation and anion resin followed by a mixed bed resin, but produce much better results and are much more efficient!

 
Lol 😆 yes. So I would only need additional anion?
Silicates require anion for removal. They state 'silicon' (which silicates are molecularly comprised of) in your report, but I don't know if other silicon based elements would require cation instead. I certainly don't want to steer you wrong.
How do you know when the anion is exhausted @kharmaguru
Good question since colour indication is dubious at best and a TDS meter would still show a value since positive ions would still be in the water.
I don't understand the implication of this
Yep, the wording is a little confusing. Perhaps it relates to your above question of exhaustion but more likely is just telling people that running one without the other does not fully purify your water.
 
Perhaps just adding more mixed bed DI stages is the answer, but I would be sad if the silicates just continued to shred half your mixed beds, when pure anion would have done a better job. We should not forget that BRS has an agenda to sell you as much stuff as possible. There surely are some less financially motivated sources to glean this information from out there
 
So, I would need this added to my 4 stage with mixed bed?



 
I guess I'm not sure if adding an anion stage would require adding a cation.

Also, how harmful are silicates to an aquarium?
 
Interesting what he said about titanium heaters. I wonder if there is any literature to back that suggestion.
Years ago I have supported a customer with high metal readings in his report list. I was not able to identify the source, but told him that there is a metal source in his tank. He claimed that all of his components were new and clean. After the next analysis I told him again that there is a metal source in his tank. He said it is impossible.

His corals got problems with tissue necrosis. Guess what I told him? At a certain point he went crazy and opend the cases of the window cleaning magnet, pumps, the magnet holder of a fish feeding ring and the titanium heater. Only the pumps were fine.

The outside of the titanium heater was not the problem, but it was not water proof and inside he found rust/corrosion.

Since then I had a lot of customers with the same problem. Therefore I recommend to use glas heaters.





Mit freundlichen Grüßen / With best regards



Dr. Ben Funk

Laborleitung



b.funk@atiaquaristik.com

www.atiaquaristik.com
 
I guess I'm not sure if adding an anion stage would require adding a cation.

Also, how harmful are silicates to an aquarium?
I base my idea on what I said about silicate buster cartridges - they have extra anion. That tells me the quantity of resins do not need to be equal.

Silicates are fuel for diatoms and sponges and probably some other things. Not sure if they bother corals.
 
7 Stages of Filtration

Stage 1 - GE ROSave.Z 1 Micron Depth Sediment Filter NSF Certified

Stage 2 - BRS 1 Micron Universal Carbon Block NSF Certified

Stage 3 - BRS 1 Micron Universal Carbon Block NSF Certified

Stage 4 - Dow Filmtec Reverse Osmosis Membrane NSF Certified

Stage 5 - Pro Series Cation Deionization Resin

Stage 6 - Pro Series Anion Deionization Resin

Stage 7 - Pro Mixed Bed Cation Deionization Resin

 
I like that one.

Another option (because I'm frugal) would be a housing and cartridge filled with Phosguard. I used to get it in bulk back in the day and I used to run it after the RO and before the DI stage to catch any excess silicates from my well water. Only problem was it was quite dusty at first and I had to let it run for 1/2 hour the first time before adding in the DI. I did that for years but I was never testing for silicates, so I had no real idea that it was necessary for me anyway and just stopped doing it. Just mentioning it to show there are a few ways to skin a cat.
 

I like that one. It should help.
 
I ordered this and will run it after my 4 stage.
 
Hello John,

the water quality of your aquarium is terrible. There are a lot of elements elevated. There are several possible sources for them.
And here I thought it did not look that bad!
Shows how much I know about trace elements.

Here is a list of the most common:

- RO water. Yours is not ok. I recommend to install a mixed bed resin filter behind the RO system.
He is indicating that your DI resin is bad or assumed it is missing?

- Seasalt mix. I recommend to buy a high quality seasalt like Tropic Marin classic reef salt.
Curious if this really matters. Plenty of folks ICP test with everything from IO to exotics.

- Corroding metals. Remove the window cleaning magnet always after usage. Do not use heaters made of titan. Check all other metal parts in or around your tank fo signs of corrosiuon/rust. Replace affected parts.
Wondering what the titanium is all about, unless he is indicating the commonly leak. I was not aware they Ti was reactive.
 
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