Join me for a strange one...

Local sign shops and plastic supply houses can get it as well, the problem is that MOST are not friendly to DIYers and will refuse to talk to you... It is a amazing how different they treat you when you tell them you have a business and want to open an account.
 
Personally, I'd cut out the plumbing and pour in gussets from WO 40. If that can't be done; as a last resort, glue in square bar using WO 40 - it'll most likely be ugly but effective. That said, Id highly advise not counting on this but rather doing these joints horizontally - which means cutting out the plumbing. You might want to place something on that corner to hide the area. The caveat to all this is is that crazing is a potential issue since you're adding a chemical stressor to a pre-stressed area.

From a strictly structural perspective, the above won't "make up" for the bad joints, but it will help reinforce the area and seal any potential leaks.

As a FWIW, I would avoid 16 completely, there is nothing it can do that #4 or 40 won't do better :)

HTH,
James
 
Thanks for your input James.

So you are not a fan of building a 3/4" tape triangle up that corner and filling it with #40?
 
The problem with the tape triangle is that the WO will capillary under the tape and likely cause crazing. What I understand James is saying is to actually pull the tank... tip it up on the edge and run a bead of WO 40 so that it "pools" into a bevel in the corner... I myself would repeat this on all edges as long as you have the tank out. It sucks that you have to take that step backward on the plumbing but in the long run... peace of mind. That is a lot of water and no matter how strong the stand is... your tank may experience some stress dynamics a static tank wont.
 
Well, I am going to join the cut the plumbing and remove the tank crowd. I think standing it up on each corner and gluing it may be time consuming but well worth it in the long run. Besides that, it may help you sleep better knowing your seams are good. With a name like Acrylics, how could you question him anyway?? :)
 
kcress said:
laverda; Thanks for the link. After being burnt royally on "flexibility" BS on site marketing I can't bring myself to assume any hose is very flexible unless a piece is in my hand. The customer reviews for that product profess: Not flexible, it bursts easily. :hmm2: Do you know if it's floppy flexible? Like will it bend a 90 on its own within a few inches? Like vacuum cleaner hose?
Click to expand...

It is way more flexable then Spa Flex. I use a 60' x 3/4" & 12' x 1" length of it with a MAg 9.5 for water changes on my 240. I was able to cut my water changes form 4 hours to 30 min for 60 gallons. I roll it up and hang it in the garage between uses. It was well worth the cost. Just dont try to use hose clamps with it. I have also used it to help people tear down and set up tanks and find it very handy. Using it for that I found out; it does not hold up well to being steped on. That will almost always cause a small leak. You can patch a leak with the new wonder tape or by gluing a short length of 3/4 PVC in it. It is as flexable as most garden hose, but larger in diameter. I do not think it would be a problem at all for your situation.
 
kcress said:
Leak is hardly even the correct term.. These locations all dribbled with great haste, actual streams of dribble. Note the hose clamps. They're all tightened with a WRENCH even. The hose site stated "if you have trouble with leaks on the EDPM hose, use our spiral hose clamps - they will stop the leaks.". They were selling the spiral hose clamps for 13+ dollars a piece!!! You are talking 50+ bucks for hose clamps. That's why I tried the standard hose clamps.

ok30bnt92q.jpg


I searched the web and found a plastics processing equipment company that had the same clamps for $2.5 a piece. That's all of them for less than the cost of one from Flexpvc.

p21m2t4g6j.jpg


Once I had the spirals on we tested again. Those four leaks were all stopped completely!

Moral of the story is don't even bother with big spiral hose if you aren't going to use spiral hose clamps.
Click to expand...

Where did you get the clamps? I bet those would work on the Super flex hose too.
Steve
 
hebygb said:
The problem with the tape triangle is that the WO will capillary under the tape and likely cause crazing. What I understand James is saying is to actually pull the tank... tip it up on the edge and run a bead of WO 40 so that it "pools" into a bevel in the corner... I myself would repeat this on all edges as long as you have the tank out. It sucks that you have to take that step backward on the plumbing but in the long run... peace of mind. That is a lot of water and no matter how strong the stand is... your tank may experience some stress dynamics a static tank wont.
Click to expand...

I don't understand how mere mortals are supposed to pull out a 320lb plastic box, (that has had seam delaminations while being handled with kid gloves), and balance it on those same seams while screwing with two part mixed chemicals.. I might as well walk to the moon right after DIY heart surgery on myself. :hmm4:

Thanks for the capillary point. :beer:

Why the concern for crazing here? None of the inside of the tank has ever been flame polished.. Just old acrylic shenanigans?
 
4adam12 said:
Well, I am going to join the cut the plumbing and remove the tank crowd. I think standing it up on each corner and gluing it may be time consuming but well worth it in the long run. Besides that, it may help you sleep better knowing your seams are good. With a name like Acrylics, how could you question him anyway?? :)
Click to expand...


Thanks Adam, but see my last response.. Ain't gonna happen. I don't love this tank enough to make that effort. I'm being bludgeoned by its depth constantly. Drop a fitting in the tank and it's five minutes of screwing around just to get it back. At this point I am essentially testing the ownership of a deep tank. I don't want to spend $2k to test it with a new tank.

I need to point out again that the corner in issue does not even leak. I just want to "help" it.
 
Last edited:
kcress said:
I don't understand how mere mortals are supposed to pull out a 320lb plastic box, (that has had seam delaminations while being handled with kid gloves), and balance it on those same seams while screwing with two part mixed chemicals..
Click to expand...

You've seen the various plywood build threads, where us nutcases balance the tanks on edge to pour fillets in the corners, right? Welcome to our world. :D
 
You can build a jig out of some 2x4s and plywood... A giant "V". Lay in a moving blanket and voila!. Set the tank in the jig, rotate the tank as required. The jig doesnt have to be perfect nor last forever... just needs to hold the tank in position for the application and the cure of each seam.

The hardest park is of course extracting the tank... Remember that game "Operation"?
 
need a forklift to move that thing around.......sheesh.

fingerlakes board? There's palm trees in that pic! There ain't no palm trees around the finger lakes! lol.
 
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