Kessil A360WE
- Thread starter bif24701
- Start date
Received the answer! Yoo hooo!!! But while waiting for one, I couldn't resist and opened one up
I do not recommend opening them up due to immediate loss of warranty, but...
If someone needs (warranty expired or something else), it is quite simple.
1) At the bottom (where the lens is), you see supposedly 2 screw sites but they are hidden beneath black mesh-type sticky tape. Use sharp tweezers to take them out - only adhesion of glue holds them in place.
2) Beneath that you will find 2 TORX N10 screws - unscrew them.
3) At the top there are 2 click mechanism sites. The body itself is made from very soft plastic and use of screwdriver can result in some aesthetic damage
. So just lightly squeeze the body so that it deforms a bit and the mechanism will come loose (if need be - poke lightly with something to help this process). Repeat on the other side.4) Now you can pull all of the interior out.
5) To get to the fan you need to:
a) Take off knobs from potentiometers and unscrew the nuts holding them in place.
b) remove plugs from the 3.5mm jacks.
c) unscrew 2 screws on top
d) release the top circuit board (white distancers)
so now you can fiddle with the power cable and take it apart. The fan itself is mounted with 4 rubber feet at the top plastic panel - use force to release it.
So in my unit there was an Everflow fan, model: F126025SL. From looks of it, it is not quite well balanced, which is why it makes this annoying noise. The noise would be acceptable but it has this one particular annoying component to it which makes me crazy. So I think I will go with SSO bearings and similar specs.
GainesvilleReef
New member
I have 11 on 5 different tanks. They are over a year old and still silent. No failures either.
slief
RC Sponsor
Yup. I did and It works fine. Just choose the thickest or best quality ones you can find otherwise you might find that some light turn on or off sooner than others if you are ramping up or down. This is due to variences in millivolts as a result of resistance. Especially when daisy chaining more than one light.
cvcoda
Member
Nice! Thanks for chiming in.
reeferaddict
New member
I have a 360w over a 38gl Nuvo- Working on setting it up w my Apex jr-
anyone run their Kessil on a controller with good results?
anyone run their Kessil on a controller with good results?
So, I'm in the process of ordering everything for my new DSA100 48x20x25. I'm considering two A360WE's. It seems that the consensus here is that they will provide enough light for 2' deep mixed reef tanks, but I'm wondering if I can pull off just using these two for a SPS dominant tank. I'm not trying to grow acro's in the sand, but I would like to get my SPS to grow as low as possible. Also, keep a couple of Maxima's at the bottom.
I've considered using 3x NE models too, but they're longer then the WE's and I have some clearance issues. NE's would probably require that I drill through the canopy to mount those with enough clearance. I would like to avoid that.
Also, worried that 2x WE's may leave a lot of shadowing. That appears to be the case in some of the pictures and videos in the thread, or am I wrong? It's hard to judge based on the videos/pictures. Maybe I should just go with 3x WE's??? Ha.
Or do I just go with two WE's and supplement with T5s later if I need to?
At this point, I'm already in to this tank 5-6k without livestock, drilling through walls, ****ing off my wife, etc. I really want to nail the lighting right off the bat and not have to add/change fixtures 6-12 months in.
I would appreciate any feedback and opinions. Especially from those running Kessils over SPS.
I've considered using 3x NE models too, but they're longer then the WE's and I have some clearance issues. NE's would probably require that I drill through the canopy to mount those with enough clearance. I would like to avoid that.
Also, worried that 2x WE's may leave a lot of shadowing. That appears to be the case in some of the pictures and videos in the thread, or am I wrong? It's hard to judge based on the videos/pictures. Maybe I should just go with 3x WE's??? Ha.
Or do I just go with two WE's and supplement with T5s later if I need to?
At this point, I'm already in to this tank 5-6k without livestock, drilling through walls, ****ing off my wife, etc. I really want to nail the lighting right off the bat and not have to add/change fixtures 6-12 months in.
I would appreciate any feedback and opinions. Especially from those running Kessils over SPS.
Chrisjbarry
New member
I would say 3 to stop shadowing issues. That was my main concern.
rockryno
Member
Hi guys, Ive been reading this thread and have become more and more interested in the Kessil. I have an AI SOL right now, but Id like to clean up the look of the tank and I think the Kessil with a gooseneck would work well.
The question is - It's a 20g long tank (30x12x12), ALL SPS corals. Would one 350W/360W be the best choice? Im not going to have a lot at the edges, but Im guessing the middle spill would be a lot.
Thanks for your help.
here is the current setup:
The question is - It's a 20g long tank (30x12x12), ALL SPS corals. Would one 350W/360W be the best choice? Im not going to have a lot at the edges, but Im guessing the middle spill would be a lot.
Thanks for your help.
here is the current setup:
cvcoda
Member
Nice! Let us know how they work. Like any issues with some lights dimming sooner than others due to wattage variance between cables (as someone else pointed out in an earlier post). I think I'm going to do the same thing if no one is having issues with the cheap cables.
$20 per cable is ridiculous.
cvcoda
Member
One fixture is supposed to cover a 24"x24" space. If it were me, I would try one wide and see how it goes.Hi guys, Ive been reading this thread and have become more and more interested in the Kessil. I have an AI SOL right now, but Id like to clean up the look of the tank and I think the Kessil with a gooseneck would work well.
The question is - It's a 20g long tank (30x12x12), ALL SPS corals. Would one 350W/360W be the best choice? Im not going to have a lot at the edges, but Im guessing the middle spill would be a lot.
Thanks for your help.
here is the current setup:
thats silly. Your talking 10V over a distance of maybe 20ft (if you add up all the cables. I think total cable run for me with all the daisy chain is about 50ft? 6ft x 4 + 25ft cable (frag tank). I know the kessils are not digital and there maybe some losses due to voltage drop but its not significant. Its not something you need to worry about. Lights work perfectly and its been 4 weeks now.
Plus for $0.88 its not even worth thinking about. Just buy it and try it out. product number 644 from mono price. If your one of those that think your HDMI cable from monster cable looks better for your tv at $100 a piece vs $2.03 from mono price then they also have some "higher" grade cables , product number 11502 for $3.09
We can go thru cable resistance , power reflections, electro-magnetics equations all day long to prove why you need to buy the official cables, but at the end of the day, $0.88 from mono price! I suppose you can support your LFS and Kessil with the official kessil cables. I'll stick with mono price on this one.
Plus for $0.88 its not even worth thinking about. Just buy it and try it out. product number 644 from mono price. If your one of those that think your HDMI cable from monster cable looks better for your tv at $100 a piece vs $2.03 from mono price then they also have some "higher" grade cables , product number 11502 for $3.09
We can go thru cable resistance , power reflections, electro-magnetics equations all day long to prove why you need to buy the official cables, but at the end of the day, $0.88 from mono price! I suppose you can support your LFS and Kessil with the official kessil cables. I'll stick with mono price on this one.
FranktheTankTx
New member
Kind of thinking about these... Was thinking about putting (2) 360W on a 30" long.
I'm kind of stuck on lighting right now because there are so many options. Do I go with an ATI, Kessil - Do I wait for the AP700 to come out? Ugh!!
I really need something that mounts off the cabinet on the outer edges because I have an external overflow & empty space on the back of the cabinet in the center... So a 24" fixture or mounting (2) 360WE off the back edges of the cabinets. I just want a clean look.
I found some premium Kessil mounts that look a little better than the standard gooseneck. I could probably mount these & look pretty sharp.
But is the AP700 going to blow the 360WE out of the water?
Trying to find info on the AP700 is like searching for the holy grail.
I'm kind of stuck on lighting right now because there are so many options. Do I go with an ATI, Kessil - Do I wait for the AP700 to come out? Ugh!!
I really need something that mounts off the cabinet on the outer edges because I have an external overflow & empty space on the back of the cabinet in the center... So a 24" fixture or mounting (2) 360WE off the back edges of the cabinets. I just want a clean look.
I found some premium Kessil mounts that look a little better than the standard gooseneck. I could probably mount these & look pretty sharp.
But is the AP700 going to blow the 360WE out of the water?
Trying to find info on the AP700 is like searching for the holy grail.
slief
RC Sponsor
I've got mounts that are designed for the Kessils and canopy mounting. They allow 360* articulation too. They are available from Premium Aquatics and will be in stock there in a week or so. PM me if you are interested and I can provide you with additional info.
FranktheTankTx
New member
Wow! I am interested - how could I incorporate these into an open top setting? Could be used with Premium Gooseneck mount???
slief
RC Sponsor
You would have to come up with a strip of aluminum or plastic that could attach to the gooseneck and provide a 1.5" to 2" spot for the mount to attach to. There will likely be a gooseneck compatible version in the future but the issue is that different goosenecks have different thread sizes which makes the articulation mount attachment a bit more difficult.
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