Kessil Club

Kessil Club

I am running 2x a360we and 1 a160we tuna blue above my sps dominated reef tank. Settings are 60% power 50 % color and everything is growing like crazy! My tank is 48x24x24


Comforting to hear J.A.C. Wester, i have same size tank but a bow front. Im running 2 A360we tuna blue for a few months. I came from running 2x 250 watt MH and i ran kessil in acclimation mode for 14 days. I raised it up to 100% and some acros bleached out so i lowered to 80 intensity then 70% now at 65% intensity and 35% color as my max outputs. I was worried it was not high enough but if ur having success with 60% intensity there may still be hope for me after all. Although u are using a kessil 160 too. Im hoping in time maxing out at 75 will be fine. I spoke to kessil reps and they said they run 100% intensity but going that high just hasn't worked for me.
 
I really wish these lights came with a UV warning. When I first set up my Kessil a360w, I, like many others, got out my trusty PAR meter and found the PAR to be super low at 100%. I included Apogee's LED compensation percentage and it was still super low compared to my 250 watt halides. So I went ahead and cranked them up to 100%, even though I've read countless threads of people doing this and frying their corals. I figured the PAR meter doesn't lie. Anyway, I fried all my corals. Killed at least half of them. I believe (and this is purely anecdotal) that Kessils are in a different class of LED's due to their true UV diodes. That's the only way I can explain such a powerful light registering so low on a PAR meter. Be careful with these lights. I still have zoas that won't open up. And before you ask, water quality is not an issue. All parameters are solid.
 
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I really wish these lights came with a UV warning. When I first set up my Kessil a360w, I, like many others, got out my trusty PAR meter and found the PAR to be super low at 100%. I included Apogee's LED compensation percentage and it was still super low compared to my 250 watt halides. So I went ahead and cranked them up to 100%, even though I've read countless threads of people doing this and frying their corals. I figured the PAR meter doesn't lie. Anyway, I fried all my corals. Killed at least half of them. I believe (and this is purely anecdotal) that Kessils are in a different class of LED's due to their true UV diodes. That's the only way I can explain such a powerful light registering so low on a PAR meter. Be careful with these lights. I still have zoas that won't open up. And before you ask, water quality is not an issue. All parameters are solid.

The issue is very common among LED fixtures but Kessils most particularly because of their spectral focus range. Lighting in the 420nm to 460nm doesn't register well on par meters let along to the human eye as far as intensity or brightness. This happens to be that gray area of usable spectrum that fosters the PAR vs PUR debates. It happens that most coral photosynthesis takes place in this range of spectrum and it also happens that Kessils are very strong in that range for that very reason.

Sadly, people aren't well aware of that. They judge by eye or by PAR and find that the numbers are low or the lights don't appear bright (enough) and crank them up resulting in burning their corals. The 420nm+ spectrum can be very misleading. What you experienced is all too common but also happens with other LED fitures as well. The deeper blues into the UV spectrums are really out of the range of our vision as far as being able to gauge the intensity. Same goes with PAR meters which is why they have a compensation factor but the accuracy of the compensation factor is questionable since different lights have different ranges of strength in terms of spectrum range.

The key which you learned the hard way is starting off low in the intensity and increasing it only a tiny bit each week and monitoring your corals closely. When they start showing a negative response, back off 3-5% and see if they respond well again. I always suggest bumping up the intensity no more than a couple points a week so you don't go overboard and can reverse the process if needed.
 
Better to run your new light at lower intensities and higher over the surface of your water till things acclimate than to blast the tank with light and bleach all your corals. Been there, done that. :crazy1:

I just realized that if you get the controller it has an acclimation program built in. I just need to find one. Looks like you're paying $99 no matter where you shop.
 
The spectral controller is worth it. You can customize on/off times as well as as ramp up and down the color and intensity.
 
I just realized that if you get the controller it has an acclimation program built in. I just need to find one. Looks like you're paying $99 no matter where you shop.

That's what I paid. I'm not pleased with their way of charging you for every single accessory. Oh, you want to mount your light? Pay up. Oh, you want a controller for your light? Pay up.
 
That's what I paid. I'm not pleased with their way of charging you for every single accessory. Oh, you want to mount your light? Pay up. Oh, you want a controller for your light? Pay up.

Or... Oh, you have an Apex, you are set & don't need anything.. Oh, you don't need sunrise or sunset, you are set. Oh you have a light rack, just hang them with the included hook or get an articulating mount. Seems you might have high expectations..

These aren't some cheap rebadged Chinese fixtures. If you compare the cost of Kessils to the other "high end" led's you will find their pricing to be very competive.. Even if you have to buy some accessories. They are great lights and very fairly priced IMO.
 
Or... Oh, you have an Apex, you are set, oh you have a light rack, just hang them or get an articulating mount.

If you compare the cost of Kessils to the other "high end" led's you will find their pricing to be very competive.. Even if you have to buy some accessories. They are great lights and very fairly priced IMO.

I get what Scorpius is saying but I agree with you 100% on Kessil. I have been very happy with my a150 and never missed my T-5's. I am really looking forward to the controllable a160we.
 
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^^^^ I think you are fine with the two 150's you can always look out for a used one for cheap and add the third. I used to put my 150 over my 120 gallon tank and my ric's would move move because it was too bright.
 
First question, anyone hear anything on a hard date for the ap700?



Second question is, has anyone added t5's to their kessils and run them for a while? Reason I ask is cause my previous tank did well and looked great with two 350's on it, but then I added t5's to it and it took off. Unfortunately I had to break it down after just a few months so I never really got to see how it would do long term.

I'm kicking around doing a ap700 for my next build and hanging a t5 off each side.
 
First question, anyone hear anything on a hard date for the ap700?



Second question is, has anyone added t5's to their kessil and have run them for a while? Reason I ask is cause my previous tank did well and looked great with two 350's on it, but then I added t5's to it and it took off. Unfortunately I had to break it down after just a few months so I never really got to see how it would do long term.

I'm kicking around doing a ap700 for my next build and hanging a t5 off each side.

I actually did add T5's, to my Kessil 360 (even a pair of dimmable T5's) , and love it for the lighting combo's I'm get. Kessil does the shimmer shows. (Now, one of my favorite times of day).

Been running the Kessil T5 mix for a couple of months.

Here is my Custom Lighting Canopy build thread (One Kessil, 2 T5's, 2 T5 Dimmables, and Accent/Moon Led's) on a 90 Gal LPS/Soft tank.
★Ultimate DIY Lighting Canopy★ (T5,Kessil, T5 Dimmable, LED, LED) Combo: THE JOURNEY

Took me a while to figure out overall settings (intensity, color and photoperiods) mixing the Kessil with T5's, but I'm finally getting there. At first I overpowered the tank slightly and many sensitive coral's wouldn't open up.

I didn't burn any badly since I worked my way up slowly.

Still working upward on intensity and photoperiod to wake up my Finger Leather fully, as I'm reaching a point where my Acan's, Zoo's and Racodia's have acclimatized. Even the LPS Frogspawns got shocked at the beginning. Now they are fine and colors better than before on MH lights.

I can share my Current Apex Programming for all lights if anyone is interested (still "work in progress" for Final Higher Settings).... (Just ask on that thread).
 
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I really wish these lights came with a UV warning. When I first set up my Kessil a360w, I, like many others, got out my trusty PAR meter and found the PAR to be super low at 100%. I included Apogee's LED compensation percentage and it was still super low compared to my 250 watt halides. So I went ahead and cranked them up to 100%, even though I've read countless threads of people doing this and frying their corals. I figured the PAR meter doesn't lie. Anyway, I fried all my corals. Killed at least half of them. I believe (and this is purely anecdotal) that Kessils are in a different class of LED's due to their true UV diodes. That's the only way I can explain such a powerful light registering so low on a PAR meter. Be careful with these lights. I still have zoas that won't open up. And before you ask, water quality is not an issue. All parameters are solid.

Kessil fixture is weak. Two low power UV leds won't help much on light intensity. PAR meter only read 20~30% lower on blue. If i read 50 on the sand bed, add up 30% error, that is 65. it is still too weak.

I have a350, a360we, and I will order AP700. I love these lights, my lps love it. I just want to say, you need more units to run, 60cm tank need 2, 90cm tank need 3, 120cm tank need 4, every 30x30cm need 1 unit to run. otherwise you will get very low par.

For those reefers using 50% intensity or lower, -> Corals need time to adapt a new light source. It's not wrong to start at low intensity. Check your corals especially zoa, it will stretch for chasing light. It is a sign that PAR is too low.
 
I have a question everybody>>>
I just installed 4 360we over 250 mixed reef. Man, I really love these lights, mainly the shimmer…when I see other tanks without the kessils, they look boring to me :(. The shimmer really adds that special touch. Now for the question, I like my tank on the blue side, also for the corals to pop. I have mine at 65% intensity, and 25% color. Question is , is the 25% blue ok for sps ? I know they have the Kessil Logic, so am I safe running at 25% color.
Thanks :) here is a pic..

Beautiful tank....congrats on joining the Kessil Club!! The SPS currently in my tank are a pink birdsnest, Yellow Stylo, and a GARF Bonsai. I have read guys pushing the color upwards of like 45-60. For the deep water Acros like my GARF, I can go no higher than 40 color on my tank before they start to bleach them. I think if you stay between like 25-40, you will be ok.
 
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Guys I have a question, I know when you add LEDs you have to slowly ramp up to avoid scorching your corals. So my question is, how do you know what intensity to stop at? When the corals seem to grow well? When it looks good to your eye?
 
Anyone have an issue with the Kessil Controller display? My controller works, but the display goes blank, Kessil indicated that it was an issue with the cord or the USB converter, so i tried several other generic cords and converters and it seems to work for a short period of time ultimately blanks out and won't wake up again...
 
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