Lanthanum chloride

I've dosed 3 times now.
First two were from 1 gallon of RODi with 1 ml of SeaKlear commercial strength dosed thru an IV bag with a slow drip rate, into the overflow, feeding into a 5 micron sock.

Tested pO4 prior to dosing.
Using the ULR Hanna Checker, I tested at 13ppB. This is with a heavy amount of nuisance algae in the tank.

After dosing for two days, (did not fill the sock until 4 days of use), I tested again and showed a pO4 level of 0, (zero).

I discontinued dosing, and took a sample of water to the LFS which uses an older lab grade Hanna checker, that is not an ULR device. Its about the same level of resolution as the standard checker and I was told my pO4 was at 0.15 ppM.

Checked the water using the ULR checker and came out with a reading of 3ppB.

I just started another does of LC, this time with 2 mls of SeaKlear per 1 gallon of RO. It is being fed through the overflow, via IV using a drip rate of one drop per 3 seconds, and empties to a 5 micron sock.

I'm guessing that the nuisance algae is sucking the available pO4 up which is causing the low readings...

How long did it take you guys to notice algae die off after starting to dose LC?
 
I believe you're using far too little Sea Klear. I do just 1:1 and use a 1.1ml doser.

I used 1 ml of SeaKlear added to 1 gallon of water on my first dose. Unless I'm completely misunderstanding what you mean by 1:1, I used the same amount as you. The only difference is that I'm gravity dripping from an IV bag, vs using a 1.1 ml doser.


How long did it take before you started noticing algae die off/reduction after you started dosing LC?
 
I'm saying 1ml per 1ml of rodi. I then dose this 50% solution with a 1.1ml Doser about 3 times a day.

I saw algae start receding the next day and a week later almost all gone.
 
I have several 100 micron filter socks, that I rotate in and out.... If I used two or three and doubled or tripled up, by bagging a sock in a sock, would that be quasi equivalent to using a 10 micron bag for lanthanum dosing?
 
I have several 100 micron filter socks, that I rotate in and out.... If I used two or three and doubled or tripled up, by bagging a sock in a sock, would that be quasi equivalent to using a 10 micron bag for lanthanum dosing?

In short, no. Do yourself a favor, the 10 micron socks are cheap enough, and readily available, don't start this thing being already behind the 8 ball.
 
just read this thread...guys you ROCK. This is going to be an excellent addition to my anti PO4 arsenal. Gary where did you get the socks? Is there somewhere locally that sells the 10micron socks?
 
I'm saying 1ml per 1ml of rodi. I then dose this 50% solution with a 1.1ml Doser about 3 times a day.

I saw algae start receding the next day and a week later almost all gone.

Were you using the commercial grade SeaKlear? That is more concentrated than the regular SeaKlear...I ask because you were dosing ALOT of LC in a short time span.

I have a clam and several anemones that are recovering from a bleaching event and I really want to make sure I don't stress them out further.
 
On my 315 I am dozing 2 times a week. I dose 10 ml lc in 1liter drip over several hours and change the sock the next day. I am maintaining. 009 or less po4 measured with a Hanna Colorado meter.
 
I have 1/2 bottle and 6 of the 10 micron socks

I have 1/2 bottle and 6 of the 10 micron socks

I have 1/2 bottle and 6 of the 10 micron socks if your looking to try or need this.
$25
Shipping is actual cost and fee's if you want.
IMG_1324_zpsf648815a.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
 
I have a question. I made my filter socks from felt. How many microns do you think they are and would they be ok to use for the drip?
 
I don't think anyone could answer that question without knowing exactly what felt you used and it would still be difficult in determining what it's micron rating would be. There are different felts used in filter bags and come in different micron ratings.
PEMF - Polyester Microfiber Felt
This material is grown from raw microscopic fibers. Its long life and ultra-fine micron rating make it possible to use bag filters for applications that once required expensive high maintenance cartridges. It has a higher melting point than polypropylene microfiber making it ideal for hot oil and other applications up to 325° F.



♦ POMF - Polypropylene Microfiber Felt
This material is grown from raw microscopic fibers. Its long life and ultra-fine micron rating make it possible to use bag filters for applications that once required expensive high maintenance cartridges. Its oil absorbing properties make it ideal for removing trace lubricants from water based products.



♦ PE (PENG) - Polyester Felt
Polyester has a higher melting point than polypropylene making it ideal for hot oil and other applications up to 325° F. This felt material can come plain (untreated felt) or glazed (high heat applied to exterior surface fibers.
 
I don't think anyone could answer that question without knowing exactly what felt you used and it would still be difficult in determining what it's micron rating would be. There are different felts used in filter bags and come in different micron ratings.
PEMF - Polyester Microfiber Felt
This material is grown from raw microscopic fibers. Its long life and ultra-fine micron rating make it possible to use bag filters for applications that once required expensive high maintenance cartridges. It has a higher melting point than polypropylene microfiber making it ideal for hot oil and other applications up to 325° F.



♦ POMF - Polypropylene Microfiber Felt
This material is grown from raw microscopic fibers. Its long life and ultra-fine micron rating make it possible to use bag filters for applications that once required expensive high maintenance cartridges. Its oil absorbing properties make it ideal for removing trace lubricants from water based products.



♦ PE (PENG) - Polyester Felt
Polyester has a higher melting point than polypropylene making it ideal for hot oil and other applications up to 325° F. This felt material can come plain (untreated felt) or glazed (high heat applied to exterior surface fibers.

Thank you for the in depth response!
 
I've been skimming through this thread looking for some advice. My aquarium is just a few months old and I started with dry rock. Obviously I'm running into leaching issues with my rock or I wouldn't be here. Is this a good option to try to deal with leaching issues?

Also, just to be clear, is this the right stuff?

With these Filter Socks

Thank you @mgrmax for recommending this thread.
 
I have a quick question.
I'm curing some live rock with LC. and have run two doses of LC so far. My question is the filter sock is saturated with the water filling to about 4" from the top,...should I change the sock out or leave the water continuing to run through it as long as its not overflowing? I'm going to ck with my Hanna for a few days until the reading remains near 0.

Just not sure if I should change the sock or not? Thanks,---Rick
 
I have a quick question.
I'm curing some live rock with LC. and have run two doses of LC so far. My question is the filter sock is saturated with the water filling to about 4" from the top,...should I change the sock out or leave the water continuing to run through it as long as its not overflowing? I'm going to ck with my Hanna for a few days until the reading remains near 0.

Just not sure if I should change the sock or not? Thanks,---Rick


I would just change it out, better than it possibly overflowing with LC precipitate, you can turn the sock inside out and rinse under the sink with warm water, then reuse.
 
Thanks Elliott,...I have more socks, was not sure if I would still get some LC benefits from running through the sock. I'm going to keep a close eye on this as it is the last time I want to pull all my rock (going to be about 4 batches) :crazy1:
Its on the 2nd dose,...after the first the Hanna was 0.02. I'll check in the morning and see what it is. I know when I have used LC on my DT the PO4 drops, but creeps back up in a few days. My PO4's have never been horrible but enough to let GHA hang on and I really don't have anything in the tank so I'm not feeding it. The tank dose get natural sun light.

I'll post the outcome here.---Rick
 
Phosphate will continue to leach out of the LR so run the LC a bit longer or until little or no precipitate forms in the sock
 
Oh yeah!! like I said, that rock is not going back in until its PO4 free. I screwed it up in the first place,...feeding a bunch of large puffers that were like keeping pigs in an aquarium, and then I got some Aiptasia that spread like the Black Plague.
I had the all rock in bins, in my basement, in the dark for more than a year,...well no more Aiptasia critters, but the rock is still leaching Phosphate.:headwally:... My fault again as I didn't change the bins water as often as prescribed.(I didn't know anything about LC at the time especially for live rock curing)
Buuuuuttttt and this is a big butt,....this time it WILL come out PO4 free! :bounce1:

I keep watching your videos for inspiration....love #2 looking forward to 3 :lmao:---Rick
 
Back
Top