Lanthanum chloride
- Thread starter Gary Majchrzak
- Start date
I've had to scrape it off
I was scrubbing it and nothing was coming off. Didn't try a razor blade. Got a little worries scrubbing it and nothing was happening.
marinelife
Active member
I thought I read in this post about the Commercial Phosphate Remover version from SeaKlear. Is it ok to us?
From what I see, they are now selling the original version of SeaKlear as "commercial strength" It's safe to use, just follow the instructions from the beginning of this thread, before SeaKlear started to dilute the original version 2:1.
ampemployee1
Member
10 micron filter bags source online.
10 micron filter bags source online.
I picked up 2 - 4"x8" 10 micron and 2 - 4"x8" 200 micron filter bags including shipping for about $17 online at: waterfiltersfast.com. Most of the other online stores ask for a minimum quantity of 20 pcs...Going to get Seaklear next and use the recommended protocol. GFO is getting to be a pita, even with regenerating it.
10 micron filter bags source online.
I picked up 2 - 4"x8" 10 micron and 2 - 4"x8" 200 micron filter bags including shipping for about $17 online at: waterfiltersfast.com. Most of the other online stores ask for a minimum quantity of 20 pcs...Going to get Seaklear next and use the recommended protocol. GFO is getting to be a pita, even with regenerating it.
Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
Ampemployee1? Guitar amps?
You don't want to use a 200 micron filter sock with LC.
Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
Please
Please
Do NOT PM me with questions on this subject.
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Read this thread! Post questions to this thread!
Please
Do NOT PM me with questions on this subject.
I will not answer your PM.
Read this thread! Post questions to this thread!
Bling_bling466
New member
We'll I'm at page 20 so far in reading and I was wondering if there has been any I'll effects running this product with bio pellets
Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
I've never used any carbon source dosing regimen.
inktomi
Aviator
I know that when using LC in a tank we need to use a 10 micron sock - but what about when using it in a rock tank to leach phosphate?
I'd like to leach all, or nearly all, the available phosphate from some dry rock before curing it and adding it to a new tank. I figure.. the less I start with the less is available later on...
In this use case, I can rinse the rock of any particulate dust before adding it to my tank. Is it worth setting up a filter sock in a stock tank, or can I just drip the diluted LC into the tank and let the particulate settle to the bottom?
I'd like to leach all, or nearly all, the available phosphate from some dry rock before curing it and adding it to a new tank. I figure.. the less I start with the less is available later on...
In this use case, I can rinse the rock of any particulate dust before adding it to my tank. Is it worth setting up a filter sock in a stock tank, or can I just drip the diluted LC into the tank and let the particulate settle to the bottom?
I just did a rock LC treatment. My rock had a bad leaching problem, and was the 2nd time for me trying to resolve it.(real pita).This time around, I took my time,...making sure it was completely cured.:thumbsup:
I put the rock in a brute and ran a pump in the bottom that ran the water up and through a 10 micron sock hanging over the tub,...worked as intended! I than ran the water through some GFO to finish it off. I checked for PO4 several days with my Hanna,...all 0.00 :bounce1: I used RO-DI water (no salt).
I think you need to capture the LC in a sock, so its not left in your rock,...your just treating the leached water. My 2 cents,---Rick
I put the rock in a brute and ran a pump in the bottom that ran the water up and through a 10 micron sock hanging over the tub,...worked as intended! I than ran the water through some GFO to finish it off. I checked for PO4 several days with my Hanna,...all 0.00 :bounce1: I used RO-DI water (no salt).
I think you need to capture the LC in a sock, so its not left in your rock,...your just treating the leached water. My 2 cents,---Rick
I've treated leaching rock in a curing bin.
The procedure I used: put the rock in new salt water ;
a small power head in the bin for circlatltion and aeration;
wait a few days; test PO4 ; if near zero wait and test it again after a week or so;
if still near zero the rock is not leaching;
if it is leaching add lanthnaum chloride to the bin to get the water to near zero( say .15 ppm PO4 or less);
Dose daily until the water maintains a low PO4 reading for a week.
I don't bother with a filter sock in this application,probably wouldn't hurt ; I rinse the loose lanthanum phosphate and lanthanum carbonate off the rock before it goes to the aquarium.
For dead rock( dry rock) you may get even better results in the low range using fresh water since you will get less lanthanum carbonate precitant and more lanthanum phospahte, I think.
The procedure I used: put the rock in new salt water ;
a small power head in the bin for circlatltion and aeration;
wait a few days; test PO4 ; if near zero wait and test it again after a week or so;
if still near zero the rock is not leaching;
if it is leaching add lanthnaum chloride to the bin to get the water to near zero( say .15 ppm PO4 or less);
Dose daily until the water maintains a low PO4 reading for a week.
I don't bother with a filter sock in this application,probably wouldn't hurt ; I rinse the loose lanthanum phosphate and lanthanum carbonate off the rock before it goes to the aquarium.
For dead rock( dry rock) you may get even better results in the low range using fresh water since you will get less lanthanum carbonate precitant and more lanthanum phospahte, I think.
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