Not sure why you would need that, but I've never heard of that exisiting.Are there any lanthanum test kits available
Not sure why you would need that, but I've never heard of that exisiting.
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Clorox Phosphate Remover Trip Report:
Curing some cycled rock in a rubbermaid, phosphate tested at .5ppm.
Got the Clorox, dosed 4tbsp 3 times over 8 days. (it is ~1/3 the strength as SeaKlear)
It has been 2 days since my last dose and I tested the phosphates today at .058ppm.
I am going to wait 4 more days before testing again without dosing to see if that is stable. If so, it will be good to go in a new display.
For dosing, it was very easy not being in a tank. I would just dump 4tbsp in without any socks or dripper.
Following this thread and good to see it has been 9 years old. A question is that I'm running GFO but PO4 keeps at around 0.16, the tank is with GHA issues so I want to keep the PO4 lower so I'm starting with lanthanum dosing as well. But I heard there could be issues with lanthanum dosing vs. GFO as lanthanum will strip PO4 from GFO. Any thoughts on that?
Tell me about it. That doesnt even include the actual rock pieces im using, that I took out and hosed before this picture. This is just the bottom barrel rubble.Greetings from the ghost of posts past, I was playing with lanthanum on page one, now use carbon dosing to keep phosphate down. It had a remarkable effect on my last reef, rescuing it from "œold tank syndrome", whatever that actually is, with a remarkable transformation of crud covered rock to near pristine.
Makers Marc.....whoa! If anybody needs proof that you need to get the precipitate out, have a look at that pic!
John
Is it showing at an alarming quantity? Maybe you can dilute a little more
results are in: this works
reason I tried it: heavy feedings of fishes and anemones in an SPS reef aquarium result in high PO4 levels. GFO is an expense.
quick summary of the methodology I used: lanthanum chloride was diluted in RO water (5ml to 1 litre for treating roughly 300 gallons of water) then slow dripped into water to be treated as it enters a 10 micron filter sock (in place of a sand filter that is often used on larger systems). My protein skimmer also processed this treated water.
Lanthanum chloride acts as a flocculant and binds to phosphates upon contact. This stuff can clog a 10 micron bag in no time!
If you dose too fast or too much the water will get cloudy and sensitive Tangs will start breathing heavy. (Dose it really heavy and I've heard it can cloud up the surfaces of an aquarium.)
regrets: I don't have a way to test low range phosphates so results are based on anecdotal observations (for now. Wanna give it a try, Tom?)
results after one month (two treatments per week equaling eight treatments) SPS coloration, growth and polyp extension much improved. Algae eating Blenny getting skinny due to lack of food.
Orly- I've not used my bottle of LC for several years now. (It's still sitting here in my sump room!)
Several things have changed in my reef husbandry since this (old) thread.... but that's another story.
LC is still a low cost viable method to reduce P if you follow the guidelines posted !
Go slow with it!
Like anything else, abuse can cause disasterous results.
I prefer to use LC in conjunction with 10 micron and/or sand mechanical filtration.
Good luck!
I used it for a long time. It does lower phosphate, however if you use too much and lower phosphate below 0.1 it will cause some of the fish to die. My large Sohal was on its side
and almost dead. Threw it into a tank without lanthanum and it recovered almost immediately. Other tangs had the same symptoms.