LED'S need help can't choose.

Bluephish13

New member
Ok i know a lot of you are running all sorts of led fixtures. I am drowning in info trying to decide.

All i need to do is light a 20 gal 30x12x12 frag tank for mostly sps+zoas/palys.

I am willing to spend the 459$ for a sol and controller shipped. So that is my limit, but really do not need lightning storms over my frag tank.

All i am looking for in a fixture is to control blues and whites separately, both channels dimmable, GROWS SPS with good color.

What would you all do...?

What are the good chinese fixtures?

What about maxspect?

what about par 38's

What about a kessil350? (probably way to much power for a 20 with frags on eggcrate)

If diy What diy kit would you build for this app?how many leds? What spectrum & brand?, What length heat sink? What degree optics? What controller/dimmer?

Is the missing peaks in the red spectrum really a concern?
I know if i run my t5's 50/50 ati ABS/BLUE+ With no red bulb like a uvl or figi pink mixed in i get poor color in my monti caps, and most everything except blue corals. Also not really a big concern in the frag tank they just need to grow with a decent color.

so much to choose from!
Tank is setup waiting for frags and a light!

Thanks
 
Avoid the chinese fixtures and the par 38's. The pars tend to rust. My 2yr + chinese 120w spectrum just shifted so I get an algae breakout when I turn it on so it is now my winter indoor plant light. My par 38's are pretty intense and work but I would get a fixture with more spectrum like the (radions/AI's/custom).
 
what rapid led option sounds better

This one
http://www.rapidled.com/8-x-solderless-triple-puck-kit-with-dimmable-drivers/

Similar to the sol blue but no special effects. I believe it also has a more diverse spectrum than the sol blue with 2 different blue leds. Same leds as the ai nano.

But do you think i will have enough coverage with 60 degree optics, on 6x9 heatsink?

I have no limit how high i can mount them.


or

http://www.rapidled.com/24-led-plug-n-play-retrofit-kit-dimmable/ same color ratio 2-1 blue/royal blue - cool white. With 80 degree optics.

on this heatsink with fan.
http://www.rapidled.com/6-x-20-black-anodized-aluminum-heat-sink/
 
DIY would probably be the best for you if you have a budget. The new Ai vega colors just came out you could look at also.
 
I agree with Austin. I think that you'll want a little variety in the spectrum. I've seen a lot of SPS end up looking washed out under strictly whites and blues. If you're willing to go up to $450-500, I'd consider the AI vega. It's controllable and has color variety similar to the radions.

You could also do a rapidLED fixture with more variety. I researched that a while back and I think that it would have come out to $250-275. I believe that you would have to solder though.
 
You need to contact Nate aka der-wille-zur-macht. He is hands down the LED guru. PM him if you don't hear back, PM me and I'll text him for you. He's the absolute man with LEDs.
 
ai posted pictures on facebook of the truck leaving with the vegas on the 31st, But according to someone i talked to they are NOT on the way. Aquacave has them still as pre order also.

I would not be interested in the vega or radion for a 20 long frag tank. If i am buying a vega that will go on the display for sure. I do not really need storms and clouds and a disco party on the frag tank.


Thanks a lot flanders that took up a large portion of my day and now i just have another choice. lol
I think the multi chip may be too much for a 20 long with corals up on eggcrate. right?. The kessil is similar but that really seems best for deeper applications.

IM thinking just going rapid led with 24 leds. The 80 degree optics, 24inch heatsink, with fan, hanging kit, and shield. Programable controller+dimmer. 2-1 or something close blue-white. With blue, royal blue,cool white, and warm white. IF i order now 10$ off heatsink and a free driver. About $350

I will pm der wille zur macht now thanks capt_cully.
 
Thanks Mark for stroking my ego. :D

You may be able to get by on a 20g long with fewer than 24 LEDs, but it depends on the specifics. I wouldn't do a multichip, the tank's shape is not optimized for a small number of point sources (assuming you want even, consistent coverage to grow frags - if you want "drama" then that's another story) and they're generally not as efficient or flexible as single-chip LEDs.

The rapidled kits are OK as long as you are happy with the individual components. Things that don't seem significant at first glance (i.e. model or bin of LED, driver current, optics) can make a several-hundred-percent difference in the end result, so make sure you understand the specifics or ask questions if you don't.

Choose optics based on your height above the water and your desire for spread vs. intensity. With that many LEDs on a tank that size I would be careful with optics to avoid spotlighting.

I would definitely suggest diversity in spectrum, though again - with a smaller tank and a smaller LED count, TOO much diversity can cause spotlighting/uneven distribution of colors.

Be aware that DIY'ing LEDs can be simple if you've done other basic electronics DIY, but there are a lot of ways to mess it up, too - from both an immediate disaster perspective and an ongoing perspective. Read and ask when in doubt.
 
PS I have trouble talking about commercial fixtures and DIY in the same thread, there is clearly a fundamental difference between the two and choosing should be done based on your philosophy, skills, and true interest. If you try to compare DIY to commercial based on performance, cost, or other straightforward parameters you're may end up confused or making a bad choice. DIY is going to win on all those parameters anyways. :D
 
PPS - unless you REALLY need a lot of thermal management, I would not bother with the monolithic heatsinks most online vendors are selling. Go to Home Depot and buy a stick of aluminum u-channel and hack that up into strips. It'll be lighter and easier to mount, and more than adequate. The only time the gigantic heatsinks make sense are when you have a really thermally demanding application. Given that the light rigs on most frag tanks are hanging in clean air above the tank I'm guessing that isn't the case here.
 
:headwallblue:

I will be hanging the fixture and it will be in the basement so the air is always cool.

I have no problem with assembly. I already have a soldering iron. I more need a supply list, and were to get it all. Optics or no optics? What leds, what spectrums, and in what ratio?.

Say you have a 20 gal frag tank in basement. Light will be hung, so any height can be achieved. You want to keep sps in it. What would you build?

The guy from rapid led suggested two 1.4x24" heatsinks with 20 leds and 80 degree optics.

The rapidled kits are OK as long as you are happy with the individual components. Things that don't seem significant at first glance (i.e. model or bin of LED, driver current, optics) can make a several-hundred-percent difference in the end result, so make sure you understand the specifics or ask questions if you don't.

What should i know? What should i get to achieve the best results for my app?

If you have any good links to this info ill take those too.

Thank you very much!

I apologize if this comes of sounding demanding, not my intentions.
 
How does this setup look on a 20x6 heatsink, no optics. 3 drivers(UV on its own), blues and whites dimmable separately. Ill also order 80 degree optics just encase.

what would you change?
Is this color ratio and spectrum good?
do you think this pattern will give me a poor mixing of colors?

ledbuild.jpg
 
Got any idea on height above the tank, model and bin of LEDs, drive current?

Assuming typical models, bins, and drive currents, first impression is that will be too warm/white. Given the current selections, most typical builds probably end up skewed more towards 2:1 blue:white (or, more accurately, blue-ish vs white-ish).

With that many LEDs on tank that shallow, you'll probably want to err on the side of lower than typical drive currents.
 
I can hang them any height above the tank. I have no preference what ever will give me the best spread and intensity.

http://www.rapidled.com/24-ultra-premium-led-diy-kit-with-dimmable-drivers/

This was the kit i was going to get + 3 uv leds. With royal blue, blue, neutral white, and cool white. What ever cree leds they give me. Is this bad choice?

I was just expecting to get the controller and be able to dim them to the color i want. LOL like i said im clueless on what i need, the build will be a breeze. I Just got married,6yr old starting 1st grade, and wife prego with twins! Usually i put more effort into researching and the search function, But my mind is stretched right now.

thanks for the help


I will rework my design, and post another. I was worried using less leds at high intensities would give me a spot light effect and poor color blending. Thats why i opted for more leds on a dimmer. I may run the very low, but the fixture also leaves room for a bigger frag tank if i ever upgrade.
 
I can hang them any height above the tank. I have no preference what ever will give me the best spread and intensity.

http://www.rapidled.com/24-ultra-premium-led-diy-kit-with-dimmable-drivers/

This was the kit i was going to get + 3 uv leds. With royal blue, blue, neutral white, and cool white. What ever cree leds they give me. Is this bad choice?

I was just expecting to get the controller and be able to dim them to the color i want. LOL like i said im clueless on what i need, the build will be a breeze. I Just got married,6yr old starting 1st grade, and wife prego with twins! Usually i put more effort into researching and the search function, But my mind is stretched right now.

thanks for the help


I will rework my design, and post another. I was worried using less leds at high intensities would give me a spot light effect and poor color blending. Thats why i opted for more leds on a dimmer. I may run the very low, but the fixture also leaves room for a bigger frag tank if i ever upgrade.

That kit is fine. I, personally, might go something like 10 RB, 4B, 6 CW, 4 WW.

And your assumptions about lots of LEDs at a lower current being "better" than fewer at a higher current are pretty accurate for a situation like a frag tank. Luckily those drivers are very flexible, you can select a nominal maximum current via the internal trimpots, then use an external controller or signal source to "dim" below that point.

Speaking of, you probably don't NEED a controller for something like a frag tank. You could use a wall wart and pot (with the analog version of the driver) and probably save yourself $50 - $75 vs buying a controller. IMHO, controllers only really make sense where you care about the visual impact of the lights changing intensity automatically, i.e. to simulate sunrise, sunset, etc. If all you want is a static setpoint (which I would imagine is the case on a tank designed to grow out frags), a controller is a bit overkill.

One other thing to consider when you're doing your layout - do you really, truly, want 100% even and consistent coverage edge to edge? If you design the fixture for some areas to be slightly more blue or more white, or slightly more or less intense, you'll be able to position corals according to their own unique preferences. Given the smaller size of the tank vs. the number of LEDs this will probably happen to some extent anyways, so I guess my point is, don't fret about it.

If the kit comes with optics anyways, I'd go ahead and get the 80's. I'd probably put the fixture 12 - 16" above the water surface with them on.

Good luck with your new family members! Reef aquariums can be great for young kids. :)
 
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