Leopard Wrasse Primer

Leopard Wrasse Primer

  • Macropharyngodon bipartitus

    Votes: 67 28.4%

  • Macropharyngodon choati

    Votes: 12 5.1%

  • Macropharyngodon geoffroy

    Votes: 24 10.2%

  • Macropharyngodon meleagris

    Votes: 78 33.1%

  • Macropharyngodon negrosensis

    Votes: 29 12.3%

  • Other

    Votes: 26 11.0%
  • Total voters
    236
i would say ignore the urge to coax her out of the sandbed, if she comes out on her own she will be likely to eat. of course, i am not the expert on chaotis, just my 2 cents. i hope they both pull through for you man. just from reading here in the thread i know youve had a rough run of it with leopards.
 
Tylt33 said:
I don't know what I'm doing wrong, but it's gotta be something. To get the healthiest choati that Diver's Den has ever had and to have it be dying six days later tell me that something isn't right. I don't know what the status on the female is, I'm assuming she has suffered the same fate or will be shortly. I'm frustrated, I give up. I'll take my surviving bipartitus and run.
Click to expand...

Tell me about the tank you are putting these in. What size? How old? What is in it? Lighting schedule? Feeding schedule? What are you feeding? How much and what kind of substrate? Aquascaping?
 
steve it sounds like they never came out . they just burried right off the start . i have two coming in on wed. gonna give them there own 90 gal tank that is full established . im taking all other fish out as we speak .
 
I was trying to figure out WHY they never came out. I am going to try another one in my larger tank. See Kevin Kohen's responses to my Choati thread.
 
snorvich said:
Tell me about the tank you are putting these in. What size? How old? What is in it? Lighting schedule? Feeding schedule? What are you feeding? How much and what kind of substrate? Aquascaping?
Click to expand...

Size: 120g + 30g Chaeto Refugium + 20g Live Rock Refugium + 20g Sump with 300g rated Life Reef Protein Skimmer.

Age: 14+ Months.

Lighting Schedule: 8 hours Daily (250w x2 MH, 54 x2 T5).

Feeding Schedule: I feed small amounts multiple times per day: Weekdays @ 7 a.m., 4 pm, 8 pm. Weekends ~4 times a day

Food type: A combination of PE Mysis, Rod's Food, and a small mysis brand, soaked in a mixture of Selcon, Vitachem, and Garlic Extreme

Substrate: Caribsea Aragamax- Approximately 2" in front of tank sloping up to 4"+ in the middle and back of the tank

Inhabitants: 1 M. Bipartitus, 2 Black Ray Gobies, 1 Magnificent Shrimp Goby, 2 True Perculas, Copperband Butterfly, Lavender Tang, 2 Mandarins, 1 Yellow Head Jaw

Aquascaping: 4 huge pieces of live rock (30lbs+ each)


I'll take any input I can get here.
 
Tylt33 said:
Size: 120g + 30g Chaeto Refugium + 20g Live Rock Refugium + 20g Sump with 300g rated Life Reef Protein Skimmer.

Age: 14+ Months.

Lighting Schedule: 8 hours Daily (250w x2 MH, 54 x2 T5).

Feeding Schedule: I feed small amounts multiple times per day: Weekdays @ 7 a.m., 4 pm, 8 pm. Weekends ~4 times a day

Food type: A combination of PE Mysis, Rod's Food, and a small mysis brand, soaked in a mixture of Selcon, Vitachem, and Garlic Extreme

Substrate: Caribsea Aragamax- Approximately 2" in front of tank sloping up to 4"+ in the middle and back of the tank

Inhabitants: 1 M. Bipartitus, 2 Black Ray Gobies, 1 Magnificent Shrimp Goby, 2 True Perculas, Copperband Butterfly, Lavender Tang, 2 Mandarins, 1 Yellow Head Jaw

Aquascaping: 4 huge pieces of live rock (30lbs+ each)


I'll take any input I can get here.
Click to expand...

While your mandarins and copperband will eat copepods, your refugium should supply plenty. You might consider a stack of live rock rubble some place as an in tank copepod mini-refugium.

I would worry, fish wise, about the A. percula and the jaw fish. If sexually mature, clownfish will be aggressive, and this is a very skittish fish which must be the boss of the tank. The yellow head jaw fish, may also be a disrupting factor.

Your lighting schedule and feeding schedule are somewhat inconsistent, that is 7 AM and 8 PM are greater than 8 hours. My leopard wrasses all go to bed when the lights start dimming (I have lights which simulate sunrise and sunset for the purpose of breeding and training). However, my leopard wrasses, always smell food, and if they are in the sand when the lights are on, will immediately come out.

Best I can do . . .
 
Thanks Snorvich for taking the time to think about this. I try and be pretty cognizant of bullying/aggression issues in my tank. My perculas have been a pair for about half a year now, but they have yet to spawn. They don't exhibit aggressive behaviors yet, and the yellow head jawfish is a big baby and just hangs out in his hole.

The female relocated again over night... I'm thinking about setting a 3 a.m. alarm or so and seeing if I can catch her in the act. Frustrating never to see your fish.
 
Tylt33 said:
Thanks Snorvich for taking the time to think about this. I try and be pretty cognizant of bullying/aggression issues in my tank. My perculas have been a pair for about half a year now, but they have yet to spawn. They don't exhibit aggressive behaviors yet, and the yellow head jawfish is a big baby and just hangs out in his hole.

The female relocated again over night... I'm thinking about setting a 3 a.m. alarm or so and seeing if I can catch her in the act. Frustrating never to see your fish.
Click to expand...

The perculas will become aggressive, which is why I do not keep clownfish in any of my tanks.

The leopards will try and match their biological clock to your lighting assuming that you have a day/night schedule. I do not think they will come out in the dark. Mine is on an 10 hour day.
 
snorvich said:
The perculas will become aggressive, which is why I do not keep clownfish in any of my tanks.

The leopards will try and match their biological clock to your lighting assuming that you have a day/night schedule. I do not think they will come out in the dark. Mine is on an 10 hour day.
Click to expand...

I read in Dr. Wilkerson's (sp?) book that true Perculas were one of the least aggressive and smallest clowns, which is why I went with them. It does make sense though that once they start spawning they will become more aggressive. I guess they'll go in a different tank if they get nasty.

I thought they would match my light schedule- my m. bipartitus does so, and others that I have tried did as well.

I'm going to change my lighting schedule to better fit the day- I have a Profilux 2 EX controller that I'm going to set up this weekend so that I can do dawn and dusk on my tank.
 
Tylt33 said:
I read in Dr. Wilkerson's (sp?) book that true Perculas were one of the least aggressive and smallest clowns, which is why I went with them. It does make sense though that once they start spawning they will become more aggressive. I guess they'll go in a different tank if they get nasty.

I thought they would match my light schedule- my m. bipartitus does so, and others that I have tried did as well.

I'm going to change my lighting schedule to better fit the day- I have a Profilux 2 EX controller that I'm going to set up this weekend so that I can do dawn and dusk on my tank.
Click to expand...

Yes, Perculas are the least aggressive, but that does not mean acceptably so. If you simulate dawn and especially dusk, it will eventually help with mating cycles.

Remember that this type of wrasse is especially sensitive to aggression, implied or explicit.
 
Gah... I think I'm going to let other people have a try this time, although I do get home from work early...

If anyone wants me to win them for them, send me a PM, I'm magic on the refreshing to checkout quickness ;)
 
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