Leopard Wrasse Primer

Leopard Wrasse Primer

  • Macropharyngodon bipartitus

    Votes: 67 28.4%
  • Macropharyngodon choati

    Votes: 12 5.1%
  • Macropharyngodon geoffroy

    Votes: 24 10.2%
  • Macropharyngodon meleagris

    Votes: 78 33.1%
  • Macropharyngodon negrosensis

    Votes: 29 12.3%
  • Other

    Votes: 26 11.0%

  • Total voters
    236
it doesn't have to be sugar-fine for most of these species. and the video kind of shows it but my powerheads as they are have moved my sand bed and left parts of my tank bb. there are large sections of anywhere from 1-6" of sand bed. all the critters tuck out nicely as the lights begin sunset - it's very natural and beautiful sight.



Sorry, but I Disagree, as I have used sugar sized sand for years, however, most, if not all Wrasse Experts recommend such use, including Kevin, director of LiveAquaria.
This help prevents these wrasses from shredding their scales and breaking their beak.
 
This lengthy thread has been incredibly informative from the selection and QT to the longterm care and it is very much appreciated. I have read most of it but have failed to come across specifics to sand bed granule size (i probably missed it). I plan on having some of these beautiful fish down the road and I want to make sure that my DT caters to them. I was looking at some caribsea products and am looking for the right mix of softness so the Leopards can safely burry themselves and as large as possible to avoid a sandstorm from a stray powerhead or simply stay put fairly well from the good amount of flow that this reef will have.

1. Aragamax Sugar-sized Sand .0.2-1.2
2. Aragamax Oolitic Select Sand 0.5-1.02mm
3. Aragonite Super Reef Sand 1.2-4.0mm
4. Aragonite Special Grade Reef Sand 1.25-1.95mm



I was thinking about a 3-4" sand bed with one of the Aragamax Sands would probably be best fit but would love to hear the thoughts of those with more experience.

Thanks
Mike


Number 1, only....

Use some larger size or crushed coral in the front center area to limit sandstorms...
 
I've got 60lbs of oolite in my tank. My blue star pair love it as does my melanurus

But it does fly around from tide to tide. Hahaha
 
Sorry, but I Disagree, as I have used sugar sized sand for years, however, most, if not all Wrasse Experts recommend such use, including Kevin, director of LiveAquaria.
This help prevents these wrasses from shredding their scales and breaking their beak.
ok - thank you for your input/opinion. please reference the kevin kohen interview or post where he provides this specific recommendation.
 
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ok - thank you for your input/opinion. please reference the kevin kohen interview or post where he provides this specific recommendation.

PM from Kevin to me about my pair Kuiter's Wrasse:

Putting them (my Kuiter's) , in a very old, well established tank is key with fine sandy substrate that is teaming with life. Plenty of established rock for natural food and stability ove we would definitely offer more Macropharyngodon and Anampses. Just need more roomalso. Dimly lit tank at first seems to help and flow, these fishes need flow to swim against as that is what they are accustomed too. Once you get them on your time zone stability and intensive feeding 10-15 times per day will get them past the collection, holding, transport, and acclimation stress. After 30 days they can be transferred into the display if they are acting like they should ie- constantly hunting for food.fficeffice" />>>ffice:office" /><O:p></O:p>
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Enrichment of foods is ideal as well. Selco boost, beta glucan, or the old Selco hatchery amino acid food soak all have worked well for me. If we had more dedicated holding tanks like I mentioned ...............
 
here is another....from someone that has numerous anampses femininus &
choati leopard wrasse for years....and, obviously, sells them....


here's a quote from Kevin Kohen:

But here is some great info on Leopard Wrasses by Kevin in that thread:

Like other Macropharyngodon spp. these fishes can and do suffer from improper handling along with a multitude of other stressors that can affect them down the road. This genus of Labroid fishes requires very delicate handling, as they are very skittish and highly sensitive to light upon arrival, and must be acclimated properly to temperature, specific gravity, and pH. They can go into shock very easily and are extremely sensitive to fluctuations in temperature, water chemistry and dissolved oxygen levels.

I have stated previously in numerous threads here on RC as well as in an article in the first ReefLife Magazine, this species surely is not for everyone. If one has the experience needed to properly acclimate and care for this species, as well as the proper environment to maintain them, and is willing and able to put the time in to feed these fishes relentlessly for several weeks until they are fully settled into their new home, they can do well long term.

Once acclimated properly, the best scenario is to maintain them in an old, very well established habitat that has a 2"-4" layer fine sand to meet their burrowing instincts so they feel comfortable. Keeping them stress free with no harassment from other tank mates or from their owner will allow them time to adjust to their new environment and settle in with the least amount of stress.

Assuming one obtains quality fishes that have been harvested, handled and conditioned properly; the next challenging step is feeding and proper diet. These fishes hunt for food almost constantly but will soon rely more and more on supplemented foods. Feeding these fishes throughout the day with the proper foods along with maintaining them in very stable, clean water conditions at temperatures of 76 to 77 degrees is a must, as they do not fare well at elevated water temperatures. Supplementation of small frozen mysis as well as live and frozen artemia is critical. This can be accomplished by enriching freshly thawed and drained frozen food in Amino Acid and other vitamin supplements. There are plenty of quality enrichment products available and their use at every feeding is extremely important to help boost the fishes' immune system and allows them to regain their strength.

Last but not least, and in my opinion the most critical, is having the proper time to feed them throughout the day for the first few weeks or even for the first month. Offering very small quantities of food ten or more times per day will provide them with the nutrition needed to get them through the critical first few weeks of their transition into their new environment.

These are the steps that have worked well for me over the years, and all of them are critical, playing an important role in determining how this species will fare long term in the home aquaria.
Regards,



__________________
Kevin Kohen
Director of LiveAquaria
Drs. Foster and Smith
www.LiveAquaria.com
www.DrsFosterSmith.com<!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
__________________
 
i've read that one before, yes. and thank you for your personal PM conversation. i do not see where recommendation specifically of sugar sand is being made as indicated in your retort to my initial comment nor of the damaged consequences of not using specifically sugar-sized grain substrate. i'll definitely report my findings and experience in this thread with experience. nonetheless, i also don't want to threadjack so i'll conclude by saying thank you for your input.

edit: after looking at measurements of approximate grain size of "sugar-sized" substrates, my substrate of mostly fiji pink sand actually falls right in the median despite not being advertised as such so this whole discourse has proven rather moot in not for the benefit of our fellow audience ;)
 
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The good news is that the majority of leopard wrasse future owners can read, and they will see that the recommendation of a sand bed is "fine" from one of the most expert in Leopard & Tamarin care.....

I recommend sugar sized, a keeper of Leopards since 2006.....and currently housing a pair of Kuiter's & a Tamarin....

any & everyone can always make their own choices in life, with their tank, their fish.....some are awesome, and some are not....some listen to the wisdom of others that have pioneered, some don't....
 
And some have healthy happy fat fish that like to bury under rocks and do just fine in an inch of medium coarse sand... My sand is actually a mix of medium and coarse...
 
And some have healthy happy fat fish that like to bury under rocks and do just fine in an inch of medium coarse sand... My sand is actually a mix of medium and coarse...

Sounds like an exception to the rule... and with live creatures there will always be those exceptions. I had a Volitan that was housed with 4 blue damsels (that cycled the tank). I left them in there as the Lion's first meals yet he only ate two during the initial week. The other two, that were no larger than the others, remained for about 5 years with him. Even though the lion could have fit both in his mouth at the same time and there was little rock work for them to hide, he never seemed to even try. Two more damsels were added during that first year and he immediately ate both (used acclimation box for a week). I can't attribute it to the lion being well fed because they are such gluttons.

So I chalk it up to just being a fluke and an exception that I, of course, would never recommend to another hobbyist.
 
The good news is that the majority of leopard wrasse future owners can read, and they will see that the recommendation of a sand bed is "fine" from one of the most expert in Leopard & Tamarin care.....

I recommend sugar sized, a keeper of Leopards since 2006.....and currently housing a pair of Kuiter's & a Tamarin....

any & everyone can always make their own choices in life, with their tank, their fish.....some are awesome, and some are not....some listen to the wisdom of others that have pioneered, some don't....

And that last line exemplifies my reason to search for this thread before posting my question. The information on here will make me a better owner to some future Leopards.

Thank you and others for the responses.
Mike
 
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