Lets see those steel stands!

Great thread on steel stand construction but I'm surprised I don't see more ways that everyone is COVERING these stands?!?!? My project is not an in-wall so I've been trying to think of great ways to cover it.

What are some things people have done with covering their stands??? My fiancé wants wood but then I might as well just build a wood one!!! LOL

I have a wrought iron angle stand for my 180 and I'm in the middle of constructing the canopy and shell. I made a wood frame and I plan on wrapping it in 3/4 walnut plywood. I'm making two doors and two panels that attach by magnets so the whole stand can be wide open like I'm used to it being now.
 
That's exactly what I was wondering about. Not sure where I could get walnut plywood though! Keep us updated on your progress. I thought about the same type of idea and putting it on rollers to just roll away from the metal stand with the sides acting almost like doors on hinges and maybe some magnets. I've seen some people even use types of flooring as well.
 
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I am thinking of adding a Corian ledge to recess the sand bed like these photos I found online. I would use wood sides held on by magnets. The think I can DIY the Corian much like working working with acrylic but I can't find much info on that.
 

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Here is my recent stand, supporting a 4x4x2.5 / 300g tank

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The top hoop is 50mm x 50mm x 4mm as are the vertical legs, the rest is 50 x 50 x 2.5 - total weight of the stand is 85kg.

We should have doors / enclosure on it in the next few weeks.
 
Great thread on steel stand construction but I'm surprised I don't see more ways that everyone is COVERING these stands?!?!? My project is not an in-wall so I've been trying to think of great ways to cover it.

What are some things people have done with covering their stands??? My fiancé wants wood but then I might as well just build a wood one!!! LOL

I ended up using wood.

I used 1x material and faced both sides with 1/4" plywood. I filled the void with structural foam. I then embedded 1" magnets along the top edge of each panel. All 3 sides are held on with just the magnets. This allows me to pull all three sides off of the stand when I need to work on the equipment.
 
That's exactly what I was wondering about. Not sure where I could get walnut plywood though! Keep us updated on your progress. I thought about the same type of idea and putting it on rollers to just roll away from the metal stand with the sides acting almost like doors on hinges and maybe some magnets. I've seen some people even use types of flooring as well.

You can order it at HD if you really wanted it, or a local lumber yard. I'll definitely keep you updated. I painted the canopy frame the other day with white waterproof paint and got my lights back up until this is finished. I ordered a small piece of walnut ply that is coming on Monday to test different stains and practice cutting so I dont tear the veneer on the big sheets.

My 125 to 180 thread has a lot of the progress on the last page. i just didn't update it with the painted pictures yet.
 
I ended up using wood.

I used 1x material and faced both sides with 1/4" plywood. I filled the void with structural foam. I then embedded 1" magnets along the top edge of each panel. All 3 sides are held on with just the magnets. This allows me to pull all three sides off of the stand when I need to work on the equipment.

Can we get a picture?
 
I just changed out my 300g acrylic to 300g starfire glass. So I decided to pull out the wood stand and replace it with a steel stand. The top are 2x4 rails and most of the vertical supports are 2x2 on angle iron. It also has six leveling feet.
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We had a long delay and now my welder said he is free to do the welding this week, so I have to make a last minute call on the design. The tank is a 5'x2'x2' 150 gallon and it will sit on the furthermost right 60.5" of the stand (the stand is 72" total to give room for the peninsula plumbing and the 75 gallon sump). If using 2x2x3/16" steel, will this design work? I know there are some larger gaps between vertices, but I'd like to be able to fit the sump in parallel.
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Tanks only need to be supported on the ends. I'm not an engineer, but if I was going to build a stand longer than the tank, I would have vertical supports directly under the ends of the tank. In fact the guys over at Tidal Gardens have no center brace at all. They just stack up bricks on the ends.

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If your stand has more or better support in the middle than the ends of the tank, it has a high risk of breaking the tank. Glass is stronger under compression than tension.
 
Here is my recent stand, supporting a 4x4x2.5 / 300g tank



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The top hoop is 50mm x 50mm x 4mm as are the vertical legs, the rest is 50 x 50 x 2.5 - total weight of the stand is 85kg.



We should have doors / enclosure on it in the next few weeks.



Love those dimensions! A lot of flexibility with aquascaping.
 
leveling feet

leveling feet

how do these leveling feet look?

[URL="https://www.zoro.com/s-w-level-mount-swivel-stud-38-16-1-3764in-bsnyla13/i/G1905863[/URL]

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Thread Size: 3/8-16
Includes: Locking Nut
Leveling Mount Type: Swiveling Stud
Hex: 3/4"
Item: Leveling Mount
Bolt Length: 3"
Base Dia.: 1-37/64"
Load Capacity: 2500 lb.
Construction: Stainless Steel
Base: Nylon
Height: 4-1/16"
Finish: Stainless steel


They have a plastic base and the metal is stainless
I planning on using 9 of them for a 375g tank. They are about 12 bucks each.
Also should I use a fancy tee nut or captured bolt or just weld in a standard nut?
 

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I use those on my stuff (tables in garage, tank stands). I just drill a hole in a plate on the bottom of the posts just a little bigger than the thread, then center a nut on it and tack it in place. Welds mostly locate it and the plate being solid behind it takes load. Too much weld on the nut will distort it, but running a tap through can help clean it up.

They do have bigger pad sizes for those things too, if you need to spread the load a little more.
 
I use those on my stuff (tables in garage, tank stands). I just drill a hole in a plate on the bottom of the posts just a little bigger than the thread, then center a nut on it and tack it in place. Welds mostly locate it and the plate being solid behind it takes load. Too much weld on the nut will distort it, but running a tap through can help clean it up.

They do have bigger pad sizes for those things too, if you need to spread the load a little more.

Thanks for the help!
 
I said I would update you guys when I finished my wood wrap for my iron stand so here it is. I used 3/4 walnut plywood, edgebanded everything then stained and sealed it. I also painted the inside white with waterproof paint.
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