mcbaes72
-Aidan's Daddy.
If I could re-do my stand, I'd go over-built like this:
Plenty of space in the front, lots of extra support in the back.
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Lets see those steel stands!
- Thread starter MeuserReef
- Start date
If I could re-do my stand, I'd go over-built like this:
Plenty of space in the front, lots of extra support in the back.
jason.frew
New member
If I could re-do my stand, I'd go over-built like this:
Plenty of space in the front, lots of extra support in the back.
Hi. there was nothing linked in your post. :rollface: very interested to see what your looking to do
mcbaes72
-Aidan's Daddy.
That's strange, I could see picture in my post on my phone.
Other than scanning through all the pages in this thread, try this website to get a few ideas on steel stand designs.
Steel support frames
I'm genuinely curious as to why so many people are angle gusseting their corners. That's way overkill IMO and takes away from working space.
Here's my stand, its 2" x2" x1/4" wall steel square tubing powder coated matte black. It is 7'-6" long x 38.5" wide x 36" high, and yes I had the numbers run it tops out at 10,000lbs capacity before any failure.
I am designing a fastener system to adhere the hardwood panels to it but make them removable. Kind of a clip style system.
With plywood on it and sump in place (FYI that is a 100gal 4' long acrylic sump lol)
Hello ThisGuy12
Interesting design; kind of exactly what I was looking for. Why did you design it out of 3 different sections bolted together? How strong has it been since put to use? Are these bolts holding everything in a rigid fashion; ex. no frame twist etc. Do you have leveling feet for each section? Please answer, I need to have a stand that is roughly 72x34x40h in the basement but the staircase is only 30" wide. HELP!!!
Does anybody else have any ideas how much issue can be addressed?
ThisGuy12
New member
No twisting what so ever. I designed it as 3 sections because the full length and width wouldn't fit through my door so each section slides in sideways down the stairs and bolts together using 4 carriage bolts with lock washers and nuts per section.
It has worked just fine for the year and a half it has been running for.
Prompt answer really appreciated.
Did you use special stainless steel fasteners or did you just paint them to resist corrosion?
What means did you use for leveling of the whole thing?
One last thing, was there a build thread? I'd love to see it.
scchase
Premium Member
Here is the new one for my 1200g build, had to be built in place due to size
20170930_102609 by Scott Chase, on Flickr
20170930_110254 by Scott Chase, on Flickr
20170930_110300 by Scott Chase, on Flickr
There will also be a secondary standard that is integral to the plywood build
20170930_102609 by Scott Chase, on Flickr20170930_110254 by Scott Chase, on Flickr20170930_110300 by Scott Chase, on FlickrThere will also be a secondary standard that is integral to the plywood build
WLachnit
Active member
Here is the new one for my 1200g build, had to be built in place due to size
There will also be a secondary standard that is integral to the plywood build
Wow...what are the dimensions of your tank? Do you have a build thread?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Starting to consider my design for a 84" long by 32" wide stand. I picked up a bunch of 2"x2" 1/8" wall tubes 22.5" long that I will be using for the uprights. Would 14 gauge 2x2 tubes work for the long spans or do I need 1/8" for that as well. I have enough of 2x2s for uprights and 45 degree gussets to strengthen it up.
zachrabbit15
New member
chris.viner87
New member
I just changed out my 300g acrylic to 300g starfire glass. So I decided to pull out the wood stand and replace it with a steel stand. The top are 2x4 rails and most of the vertical supports are 2x2 on angle iron. It also has six leveling feet.
Looks tidy - I want to paint mine white, what paint did you use? Cheers Chris
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pfoxgrover
New member
To add Drain holes or not to add drain holes?
To add Drain holes or not to add drain holes?
Does anyone have any words of wisdom regarding whether or not to drill drain holes in the bottoms of the HSS steel tubing runs in my steel stand?
I attempted to seal all the tubing ends mostly for aesthetic reasons but I worry that if I have a tank overflow or something, water may find it's way into the tubing somehow and get trapped there and rot the stand from the inside out over a long time frame. I considered drilling rain holes on the bottoms of the horizontal tubes before I get it powder coated but I hate to drill holes in my work unless there is a good reason.
Any feedback would be appreciated!
To add Drain holes or not to add drain holes?
Does anyone have any words of wisdom regarding whether or not to drill drain holes in the bottoms of the HSS steel tubing runs in my steel stand?
I attempted to seal all the tubing ends mostly for aesthetic reasons but I worry that if I have a tank overflow or something, water may find it's way into the tubing somehow and get trapped there and rot the stand from the inside out over a long time frame. I considered drilling rain holes on the bottoms of the horizontal tubes before I get it powder coated but I hate to drill holes in my work unless there is a good reason.
Any feedback would be appreciated!
BigDave
Premium Member
Not sure if anyone ever responded to you.
I use 1/4" flat stock and put angle mount points in the 4 corners of the top of the stand. I then drilled a hole and screwed up through it to hold the plywood in place.
Honestly, once the tank is on it, the plywood isn't going anywhere, but it helped to hold the plywood in place while sliding the tank onto the stand.
For sealing, I did 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of enamel spray paint.
pfoxgrover
New member
anyone with a steel stand that can weigh in on this?
Gorgok
New member
I have holes all over my stand, most are 'plugged' with screws and whatnot for stuff attached to it... So i didn't even bother capping the tubes knowing that would happen.
Unless you are flushing the insides of the tubes with inert gas while welding you will have rust forming inside anyway, eventually. It is probably 'much faster' with holes drilled in or uncapped tubes, but realistically it will fall down sometime after the silicone gives out anyway. Unless you are doing something stupid like 'washing' it with salt water daily (hello snowy north, sorry about your cars)... Even then it will take time.
Unless you are flushing the insides of the tubes with inert gas while welding you will have rust forming inside anyway, eventually. It is probably 'much faster' with holes drilled in or uncapped tubes, but realistically it will fall down sometime after the silicone gives out anyway. Unless you are doing something stupid like 'washing' it with salt water daily (hello snowy north, sorry about your cars)... Even then it will take time.
azsoccerpop
New member
Anyone know if the Flux Core 125 amp welder at Harbor Freight is enough to do the job of welding 1-1/4" 16 gauge square stock. I am trying to decide new steel stand for a 60"x24"x24" 150 gallon tank verses trying to refurbish the used home made wood one that came with it. I have Mig welded sheet metal a long time ago using shielding gas. I plan on 45 angles around the top to seal. 3-4" triangle gusset plates 1/8" thick at the 4 corners and 3/4" plywood top and sump shelf. Any suggestions or tips are very welcome. Also I am debating powdercoat costs vs other coatings if anyone has used anything else please let me know what has worked.
Gorgok
New member
It would do the job technically, especially if you properly prep the mates with bevels and such. I don't know how well it will work (how smooth it works and how forgiving it is). The biggest thing is its only a 20% duty cycle machine.... It again may be enough, especially for someone not very proficient at fabricating, but it means you really should only weld for about 2 minutes every 10 minutes. It may actually work out that you don't weld more than that even if you hurry with adjusting all the joints up and such.
Get some proper welding wire though. Crap wire will really frustrate the whole process no matter how well the welder or machine works.
Get some proper welding wire though. Crap wire will really frustrate the whole process no matter how well the welder or machine works.
