Lots of water, or What the heck are you thinking

Hello all,
Not a lot to show the stand is not done yet here is a picture of how far along it is.

Front,

stand2.jpg



Side,

standside.jpg



The battery needs to be recharged on my camera. it died while I was trying to get pics of the reservoirs. I will post them tomorrow.


I thought maybe you would like to see my tank bypass lol it ain't much but the camera went dead right after I took them so dang it I am using them.

in this mode water goes up the 2" pipe on the right and returns via the overflow through the two 1.5" pipes on the left.

ValvesVert.jpg


in this mode the water is diverted to bypass the tank and just recirculate water from the 2" pipe straight to the two 1.5" pipes.

ValvesHorz.jpg


I will be in this mode for awhile. Once I get everything plumbed and leak tested I plan use the system to cure the additional 200 LBS. of live rock I want to add.

Like I said I will post more pictures tomorrow, sorry about the camera.
 
I would like to add Special Thanks to Sidewinder as I used his stand design :)

BTW yes there will be more center braces for the plywood to sit upon for the tank
 
I have really been enjoying watching your progress, looks like it will be an AWSOME system cant wait to see it all come together...
 
WOW, tagging along, that puts my new plumbing I just did yesterday to shame. definately want to see some updated pics as you get er up and runnin!
 
qwuintus said:
6 large fuges?? why the overkill?

He has already answered this, "Why not". The more water volume you have the more stable your params. It has been stated by experts that for a fuge to really work you need to have a large volume, larger then the display tank. Somebody has the space and the means and they want to give it a try. I think it is a great idea.
 
That is pretty much what I want to do with my stand as well but I will need it 72x42x34. What are the specs on yours and would that work if its 42" front to back?? Is there going to be any corner braces or do you not need them?

Going to be a sweet setup!
 
AnnArborBuck said:
He has already answered this, "Why not". The more water volume you have the more stable your params. It has been stated by experts that for a fuge to really work you need to have a large volume, larger then the display tank. Somebody has the space and the means and they want to give it a try. I think it is a great idea.

so are what most reef keepers fuges even doing anything?
 
NOLACLS said:
That is pretty much what I want to do with my stand as well but I will need it 72x42x34. What are the specs on yours and would that work if its 42" front to back?? Is there going to be any corner braces or do you not need them?

Going to be a sweet setup!

The frame is .125 1.5x1.5 steel tubing except in the front where there is no support where the doors will be. There it is 1.5x3"

There will be corner bracing but my guy says I should put it on the bottom since that is where the side loading would be felt. I will get a pic when it is done.

42' deep I would think you would want vertical supports on the center cross braces or a center horizontal brace but I will ask the person doing mine what he thinks.

BTW there will be a door that swings in the front and the entire canopy hinges in the back. I am not sure if gas shocks will work for the canopy, we are playing with that now. Worst case I have to go to a scissors hinge with a locking center. I am hoping the gas shocks work because they will be exposed and I think they will look nicer.
 
Northside Reef said:
The frame is .125 1.5x1.5 steel tubing except in the front where there is no support where the doors will be. There it is 1.5x3"

There will be corner bracing but my guy says I should put it on the bottom since that is where the side loading would be felt. I will get a pic when it is done.

42' deep I would think you would want vertical supports on the center cross braces or a center horizontal brace but I will ask the person doing mine what he thinks.

BTW there will be a door that swings in the front and the entire canopy hinges in the back. I am not sure if gas shocks will work for the canopy, we are playing with that now. Worst case I have to go to a scissors hinge with a locking center. I am hoping the gas shocks work because they will be exposed and I think they will look nicer.

Yep 42" is a lot :D I would like to keep the sides open so I can slide my sump in. I want to make a big sump like 66x30x18 so the sides need to be open. I can do some angle supports on the sides. The tank is 36 front to back but it has external overflows. So that makes it 42" total. Take a look in my gallery on the 2nd page. I have a quick draw up of what I was thinking for the stand and canopy...take a look and talk to your guy :cool: This is holding me up from building it because I want it to be built right. Once I nail down a idea im going to get it built! Then I can finally get my tank off the floor :lol:
 
I noticed you posted in my thread and I have one thing to say- "linear actuator". Gas struts may be good but I got a linear actuator for $60 and it has up and down controls allready attached with a 1300LB rating. The front of my canopy will be done this way and it will also have 4 doors that open the regular way as well.

Looks good so far and I'll be sure to watch your progress to see if I can steal any of your ideas as well :)

Best of luck!
 
sidewinder770 said:
I noticed you posted in my thread and I have one thing to say- "linear actuator". Gas struts may be good but I got a linear actuator for $60 and it has up and down controls allready attached with a 1300LB rating. The front of my canopy will be done this way and it will also have 4 doors that open the regular way as well.

Looks good so far and I'll be sure to watch your progress to see if I can steal any of your ideas as well :)

Best of luck!

So your going to hit a button and your doors are going to open and close?
 
The linear actuator is a cool idea, I think I am going to try the shocks though, if I get the load balance right it will be easy enough to open the top.

I would love to see the actuator in action though :)


NOLACLS, I spoke to my welder he said that he would most likely do the top in 1.5x3" tubing and then use 1.5x3" cross bracing (front to back on the top) as well as 1.5x3" in the front corners.

The rest can be done in 1.5x1.5ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚

I told him your tank will outweigh mine by a bunch as it is glass.
He tends to overbuild but, better safe then sorry :)
 
sidewinder770 said:
I noticed you posted in my thread and I have one thing to say- "linear actuator". Gas struts may be good but I got a linear actuator for $60 and it has up and down controls allready attached with a 1300LB rating. The front of my canopy will be done this way and it will also have 4 doors that open the regular way as well.

Got a link or a picture?
 
Northside Reef said:
The linear actuator is a cool idea, I think I am going to try the shocks though, if I get the load balance right it will be easy enough to open the top.

I would love to see the actuator in action though :)


NOLACLS, I spoke to my welder he said that he would most likely do the top in 1.5x3" tubing and then use 1.5x3" cross bracing (front to back on the top) as well as 1.5x3" in the front corners.

The rest can be done in 1.5x1.5ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚

I told him your tank will outweigh mine by a bunch as it is glass.
He tends to overbuild but, better safe then sorry :)

I can live with 1.5 x 3. Will that not need any corner braces then? Also what about the front center and rear center brace. Would that need 1.5 x 3 or just 1.5 x 1.5?

I would LOVE so see the auto doors on a tank :lol:
 
NOLACLS said:
I can live with 1.5 x 3. Will that not need any corner braces then? Also what about the front center and rear center brace. Would that need 1.5 x 3 or just 1.5 x 1.5?

I would LOVE so see the auto doors on a tank :lol:


the front center on my stand is 1.5x3 the rear wont because there you have all the 1.5x1.5 braces in the back.

I would be afraid of side load myself not as much front to back but end to end. I would have corner braces there for sure.

corner braces can be bolted in place just have him weld feet with through holes so you can bolt them on after you slide your sump in place.

Also if you bolt be sure he welds a bolt plate on the legs and cross brace you are bolting to because the .125 tube wont be strong enough to hold the bolt if there is any weight on it.

(the bolt plate would be something like .25" flat stock that you will drill and tap to hold you corner braces)
 
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Northside Reef said:
OK I am going to get another RO/DI unit but I have a question about these ones on ebay for $90.00.

But I donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t want to go cheap if there are other factors that I should consider.

Any help would be appreciated.

I ran my RO/DI for quite a while on regular water pressure. This was at best 55 lbs. Finally got a booster pump hooked up and now run at a min of 70lbs. Output is significantly better and more consistant.

If you do not have good water pressure, run(do not walk) and get a booster pump. You will not be sorry.


Great looking setup, btw
 
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