Maxspect Mazarra.

I got my single unit kit yesterday. I thought i was getting a black one but turns out i got the silver limited edition....not happy because my plan was to try obe out and see if i like it before buying enough for my 280 build. The vendor i bought it from showed a picture of the black but in fine print it said it was for the silver one which i didnt see. Heres my issue....that was his last silver one, wont take a return and after playing around with it all day....I dont like it. I think the controls are not very user friendly and its overall feel us very cheap. Not what i would expect for $700. so im going to try and sell or trade this for some other equipment or its going to become the most expensive fuge light anyone has owned.

Steve
 
if anyone has this set up and is looking to add another module...contact me. I will make you an awesome deal on the module. The controller for mine fell in the water and while the screen is blank, all of the buttons do work but I am going to cut my losses on this one and move on.
 
I would just like to know what the power savings is compared to HQI Metal Halide setup?

I currently have two Current lamps on my two tanks. A three lamp setup on the 210 and a two lamp setup on the 72.

Trying to understand savings on electricity.

Are these powerful enough to provide the proper light spectrum for my tanks? What are the tradeoffs?

Edit: found the information I needed:

Electricity consumption is 60w and the power output is equivalent to 250W Metal Halide.
 
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It's been a few month already since the Mazarra came out. How has the lightset fare? Any electronic gremlin? I have not yet used mine but my G2 lightset has a few more led burnt out. I am of the notion that the 20000hr lifespan is not achievable. Also, the quality of light has diminished quite significantly, looking at the amount of algae appearing.

I do not have any equipment to prove what I've seen in my own tank. I believe it's time someone with the right equipment should monitor how long these led bulb should be used before the par output degrade and it's time to change the led bulb, just like how it was with the T5 and Mh bulb.
 
I have a 10 gallon. 20x10x12. Will 1 module s series be efficient or go with AI sol or AI sol nano. I don't like mount on the AI sol. I like to mount it on tank
 
After some careful consideration, I have decided to go with these lights. I've been researching and reading and reading more...and these won me over my other options. The Radions are too expensive and the AI Sol Blus colors didn't match up to the MMs in my eyes. Also, mounting methods weighed really heavy on my scale and the MMs were the most versatile. I can't mount via ceiling because I rent my flat and my ceilings are 11-12 feet high. I didn't want anything drilled into my walls behind the tank either.

I placed my order with Marine Depot today and they said the lights are expected in 1-2 weeks from today. I'm pretty excited but also VERY nervous over the purchase. I took a long time to decide on these lights....and I hope it's worth it. :bounce3:
 
chgoblknazn said:
After some careful consideration, I have decided to go with these lights. I've been researching and reading and reading more...and these won me over my other options. The Radions are too expensive and the AI Sol Blus colors didn't match up to the MMs in my eyes. Also, mounting methods weighed really heavy on my scale and the MMs were the most versatile. I can't mount via ceiling because I rent my flat and my ceilings are 11-12 feet high. I didn't want anything drilled into my walls behind the tank either.

I placed my order with Marine Depot today and they said the lights are expected in 1-2 weeks from today. I'm pretty excited but also VERY nervous over the purchase. I took a long time to decide on these lights....and I hope it's worth it. :bounce3:
Click to expand...

How big is your tank and what do you plan on keeping?

I got mine installed yesterday, 3 so far but I think I will need 4 after seeing them although I haven't turned them on over 30%. I am waiting on 2 more rails so I can hang the lights better as right now it doesn't look so hot.

Also, +10000000000 to those saying that the ball joints are worthless? I can't get them to even stay in a stationary position. What is the secret on that or do I need to call coralvue for a replacement part?
 
BeanMachine said:
How big is your tank and what do you plan on keeping?

I got mine installed yesterday, 3 so far but I think I will need 4 after seeing them although I haven't turned them on over 30%. I am waiting on 2 more rails so I can hang the lights better as right now it doesn't look so hot.

Also, +10000000000 to those saying that the ball joints are worthless? I can't get them to even stay in a stationary position. What is the secret on that or do I need to call coralvue for a replacement part?
Click to expand...

My tanks dimensions are 36" x 12" x 18" and the waterline is a good 3 inches from the rimless top. My tank build is on reefcentral with pics of the setup with water in it last night.

Livestock is still up in the air, but I didn't want to be limited, so I wanted an LED kit that was top of the line and powerful. I'd rather spend the big bucks up front and start off with meager needs then have to constantly upgrade fixtures.

I do know that the clams interest me though. :smokin:
 

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BeanMachine said:
Also, +10000000000 to those saying that the ball joints are worthless? I can't get them to even stay in a stationary position. What is the secret on that or do I need to call coralvue for a replacement part?
Click to expand...

assemble the LED's to the ball joints UPSIDE DOWN (lights facing up)........Then they will work fine.

of course, this will mean you have to take down your lights and lay them on the floor to do so, causing you huge aggravation but it they will work fine afterwards.

there's a two piece mechanism that applies tension to the ball. Not the best design, but it works.
mines reticulated and stayed put after i did this, no problems.

i heard some grumblings on the plastic screws stripping out. dont use them to assemble the rails, thats not what they are for...and to be candid i dont know what they are for. i used them on the underside of the rails to keep the modules from sliding off the rail, which they will do...kind of like a stop. i dont know why they send a ridiculous amount of hardware/screws.

good luck!!

c
 
r-balljunkie said:
assemble the LED's to the ball joints UPSIDE DOWN (lights facing up)........Then they will work fine.

of course, this will mean you have to take down your lights and lay them on the floor to do so, causing you huge aggravation but it they will work fine afterwards.

there's a two piece mechanism that applies tension to the ball. Not the best design, but it works.
mines reticulated and stayed put after i did this, no problems.

i heard some grumblings on the plastic screws stripping out. dont use them to assemble the rails, thats not what they are for...and to be candid i dont know what they are for. i used them on the underside of the rails to keep the modules from sliding off the rail, which they will do...kind of like a stop. i dont know why they send a ridiculous amount of hardware/screws.

good luck!!

c
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips. I will try that for sure... I will have to take the lights down anyways to add two more extensions to the middle so it hangs better using the hangers I already had mounted to my stand. Funny you mentioned the plastic screws... I used them for the same purpose as you. The metal screws were used to assemble the rails but thanks for mentioning that anyways.
 
ok....Am I the only one who is not a rocket scientist that owns these....? They are very tricky/complicated to program...or is it just me??? They are not user friendly.
 
Steve S said:
ok....Am I the only one who is not a rocket scientist that owns these....? They are very tricky/complicated to program...or is it just me??? They are not user friendly.
Click to expand...

I agree with you I attempted to program for about :30 minutes and didn't really get anywhere but I plan to try harder tonight to get that figured out.

I need to re-read this thread for some pointers...
 
I have read, re-read, and read some more....I am ready to get rid of these things...It should not be this hard. At leat I know, I'm not the only one. I wonder if the Radions are this hard...???
 
BeanMachine said:
Hey Rballjunkie any tips for us guys that can't figure it out... like step by step hehe?
Click to expand...

yeah,

stop trying to figure it out, and put it in one of the two automatic modes :fun2::fun2::fun2::fun2:


i only programmed the on/off times and let her rip. my patience ran out when trying to set up percentages/times etc.

it does a good job of gradually coming up to full power, and ramping down at nite.

woudl be nice if they had a user interface for PC or iphone, verses standing at the controller attempting to scroll thru the options, not the best controller layout in the world but it gets the job done.
 
I love my 2-Module Kit. It's been on the tank a week. There's a learning curve with them but I can program these with my eyes closed now. Mounting wasn't as bad as I thought but I accomplished what I wanted to do with ordering the D kit as well as the A and E kits that come standard with the 2 module kit.



Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk
 
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