MH vs LED POWER CONSUMPTION

[fcmatt]

well now i AM confused.

 

[Brwestern]

Well this thread is disappointing. Wish I would've skipped this read.

 

[scuzy]

This does not make not sense. I have a Marineland Reef Ready LED system that uses 36 1 watt LED and even with the driver it was only pulling 50 watts from the wall. If you're pulling 145 watts for 12 leds something is wrong.

 

[reefmusic]

Just read through this thread. Something is very wrong here. This is a 35 watt LED driver that is claimed to be 85% efficient by Meanwell on their datasheet. If it really uses 154 watts or anything like it, something is not as claimed somewhere.

 

[Anemonebuff]

Jim, Jim, Jim, I know Bill very well. He lives by my place, I will talk to him as well tomorrow. In the mean time I will get the picture of my Kill-o-Watt & show you the power drawn by driver for 12 LED's.
Either case please understand AC input to the driver to DC output to drive the LED's.

So does that mean all AC to DC will draw more power?

Does this mean that my MP40 draws 2.5 and is using 300+ watts, not the 40 watts they claimed?

 

[reefmusic]

So does that mean all AC to DC will draw more power?

Does this mean that my MP40 draws 2.5 and is using 300+ watts, not the 40 watts they claimed?

There will be some inefficiency in any AC to DC conversion, but it should not as bad as that.

 

[Anemonebuff]

Here you go guys. This is the current consumed by

For

In case I did not mention earlier, I love the lighting everything set aside.

Your calculations are wrong and I have no idea what is drawing those watts, but it should not be that high. Looking at the meanwell driver it says that it will accept 100-240VAC and 1.1 amps. Looking below it puts out 48V at 700mA maximum. So if driven at full power 48Vx.700 Amps=34 watts. You only get charged for the watts going out, not the max volts and amps ratings.

This site has it down as 33.6 watts consumed:
http://www.trcelectronics.com/Meanwell/lpc-35-700.shtml

Here is a calculator:
http://www.jobsite-generators.com/power_calculators.html

 

[karsseboom]

Why would people not want the most efficient light source?

Cause look at the price of leds? 700 bucsk for a good one to light a decent tank. so now i have to take a big loss and sell my mh and spend MORE money on the new led fixture TO SAVE FREAKIN 6 WHOLE DOLLARS A MONTH? while people are prancing around about all the money they save and its olny 6 bucks? how many years is it gonna take the 700 dollar fixture to pay for its self?

 

[nanojg]

Cause look at the price of leds? 700 bucsk for a good one to light a decent tank. so now i have to take a big loss and sell my mh and spend MORE money on the new led fixture TO SAVE FREAKIN 6 WHOLE DOLLARS A MONTH? while people are prancing around about all the money they save and its olny 6 bucks? how many years is it gonna take the 700 dollar fixture to pay for its self?

For me the real savings is in the bulbs. No you don't have to switch.

 

[ForSaleByAndy]

I don't argue with anyone here that anyone wouldn't want the most efficient method. Yet, I do argue that many people want the "latest and greatest" to stroke their ego on here -- a "mine is bigger than yours" of sorts.

With the way technology evolves and how there are many ways to skin a cat, pick a method that works for you and your tank. I've personally tried both methods with a MH and Par 38 LED and much prefer the MH for my tastes and personal use, but it doesn't mean I need to flame people for their methods just to make myself feel better.

 

[nanojg]

I don't argue with anyone here that anyone wouldn't want the most efficient method. Yet, I do argue that many people want the "latest and greatest" to stroke their ego on here -- a "mine is bigger than yours" of sorts.

With the way technology evolves and how there are many ways to skin a cat, pick a method that works for you and your tank. I've personally tried both methods with a MH and Par 38 LED and much prefer the MH for my tastes and personal use, but it doesn't mean I need to flame people for their methods just to make myself feel better.

I agree LEDs do come with a cool factor

 

[James77]

James, you got to learn some patience buddy LOL

Sorry, but when the first several pictures you post are of current again, when we are curious about watss, that is what happens.

If those are the readings you are getting, either something is wrong on your end, or something is wrong with the dozens of people doing DIY build and showing different readings. Your buddy Bill shows 186 watts on the same meter, when you claim he should seeing 900+ watts(Im assuming 6 drivers because of the 72 LEDs). If people were consuming that much power, they would say something, they are not holding back on some conspiracy.

Then it comes down to the energy that your watt meter is saying is being pulled from the wall...145 watts. If the LEDs are receiving their 3 watts each...36 watts.....then that would leave 111 watts that that driver is consuming by stepping down the power. That energy is going somewhere, which is why I asked you how hot it was before. How hot is it? At that much wattage uses, it should be hotter than a 100 watt light bulb or aquarium heater, you would not be able to keep your hand on it without screaming in agony . Either that or you are sending much higher wattage through to the LEDs, or a combination of the two. Something is not right here, many, amny others are showing different readings.

 

[tangstank]

With the posted links I now feel skeptic something could be wrong on my driver. I'm not sure, I have 3 gadgets confirming the same numbers. The driver certainly gets hot, but not screaming hot. I will be picking up new drivers for the other 2 sets this week, & I will be able to truly compare. Thank you for all the supporting links.

 

[chadfarmer]

With the posted links I now feel skeptic something could be wrong on my driver. I'm not sure, I have 3 gadgets confirming the same numbers. The driver certainly gets hot, but not screaming hot. I will be picking up new drivers for the other 2 sets this week, & I will be able to truly compare. Thank you for all the supporting links.

it the driver partually grounded to a heatsink via a wire ?

 

[Tenor]

Your calculations are wrong and I have no idea what is drawing those watts, but it should not be that high. Looking at the meanwell driver it says that it will accept 100-240VAC and 1.1 amps. Looking below it puts out 48V at 700mA maximum. So if driven at full power 48Vx.700 Amps=34 watts. You only get charged for the watts going out, not the max volts and amps ratings.

This site has it down as 33.6 watts consumed:
http://www.trcelectronics.com/Meanwell/lpc-35-700.shtml

Here is a calculator:
http://www.jobsite-generators.com/power_calculators.html

Hi,
I have been working in power supplies almost 25 years and never see any fly-back switching power supply (or call buck driver) used that much input current (1.33A) at 110VAC to driver 34watt load. The input current normally increase per output load usage but it also increase by output shorted. Please check your LEDs solder carefully to make sure you don't have any shorted from + or - to the chassis ground (MH reflector). The best way is using ohm meter to check at each LED from + to MH reflector and from LED - to MH reflector.
Goodluck

 

[ast]

sorry, mis-post

 

[ast]

LED fixtures

LED fixtures

What are you paying for an electric rate and are you in a hot area?

For comparison, my halides and led actinics cost less than $12/month to run and my skimmer costs less than$2 a month. An AI fixture would save me $60 a year in electric and $120 in bulbs, for a total of $1260 over 7 years. Even buying all my equipment new at $800, an AquaIlluminations setup still comes in more expensive at at least $2100.

LEDs can save a good amount of people alot of money, but blanket statements that they will save everyone money and pay for themselves in a few years cannot be made. In a few years, when that AI comes down by half? Then it will apply to alot more people.

There are many 120 watt (119x1 watt, 112x1 watt) imports on the market for around $200. What's the price issue? AI is currently <$600 to cover around 24" x 24".

 

[Anemonebuff]

Hi,
I have been working in power supplies almost 25 years and never see any fly-back switching power supply (or call buck driver) used that much input current (1.33A) at 110VAC to driver 34watt load. The input current normally increase per output load usage but it also increase by output shorted. Please check your LEDs solder carefully to make sure you don't have any shorted from + or - to the chassis ground (MH reflector). The best way is using ohm meter to check at each LED from + to MH reflector and from LED - to MH reflector.
Goodluck

If that were the case wouldn't the LEDs get full blast and get fried?

 

[Anemonebuff]

There are many 120 watt (119x1 watt, 112x1 watt) imports on the market for around $200. What's the price issue? AI is currently <$600 to cover around 24" x 24".

AI=better set up that has changeable LEDs with optics that create the PAR of a 250-400 watt MH. It also has a controller so you can customize intensity and white to blue ratio. Reported to have superb customer service.

 

[reefermad619]

One of my LFS sells their own version of the import 120watt led fixtures. These are the 1 watt led versions. They tested par with a highend 250 watt halide and par was similar and for the most part better with the LEDs. Plus they also offer a 3 year full warranty. Sounds like a sound investment to me. Like I said... A friend of mine cut his electricity consumption by over half by switching to led. We're also lucky because we live in San Diego and the weather is pretty much the same all the time. So tank temp will usually not be affected by weather. His estimated saving on electricity will be about $15/month. But he'll save a buttload more by not replacing bulbs for at least 3 years. I would say if your running a lighting system that's not high consumption, stick with what you already have. Meaning if you're only running 4x54watt T5s, is probably not worth it to change your lighting.