Islandoftiki
New member
Betty's dastardly plan to violate all of the loose frags in the tank has been thwarted by epoxy and super glue.
Ms. Peacock
- Thread starter Islandoftiki
- Start date
Kharn
MANTISMAN
Yes one must be careful with this I had to save an expensive Rhod recently from Megatron as he wanted to use it as a Door to his burrow...It is a Forest Fire Rhod and whilst I got it cheap ($70) I have seen them for a lot more (+$200)...So I leaped into action to save it...
I fixed down all my frags now with gum.
I fixed down all my frags now with gum.
Islandoftiki
New member
I've been working on building a set of brackets for my Maxspect Razor nano to move it forward to the center of the main display (or slightly forward of center). I finally got that project sorted out last night. Here's the build process, I'll start from the beginning.
I think I've posted this already, but the stock bracket that comes with the Razor Nano puts the light back too far for my liking when mounted on the back of the tank, which is the ideal place to mount the light for a number of reasons, I'll touch on some of those later.
The upside down shot glass is the center of the main display.
So, for $50.00 Maxspect sells an alternate stainless steel mounting bracket kit that lets you mount your light in myriad ways, attach multiple lights together, straddle the tank at 90 degrees, etc. Everything but extend the light forward an inch and a half.
I could have simply mounted the light sideways on the tank and removed the glass top, but I really do need the top on the tank, I didn't want to have the glass cut, and on top of that, the brackets are deep enough that they would touch the water surface at times when the MP10 goes through a pulse mode and gets some wave action going. That sounded like a salt creep hassle that I didn't want.
So, what I need to do is extend one of the L bracket rods using one of the straight rods that would be used to connect two lights together.
So, here's what I finally did after playing around with several different possibilities that didn't work out so well. I cut the straight rod down to about 5 1/2 inches long leaving the threaded set screw hole on the far end. I also cut down the L bracket rod a couple of inches. I then used a 5/16-18 die to thread the rods and a 5/16-18 stainless steel coupling nut to put them together. Because of the rod diameter, I was only about to get about 60% depth on the threads, but it's more than enough for this particular application. Additionally, I'll be epoxying the rods into the nuts to keep any saltwater out.
(Ignore the zinc plated nuts in this picture, I used stainless steel ones for the final product)
Here are the finished bracket rods:
The rods are epoxied into the stainless steel coupling nuts.
Here's the original rod next to my modified rod:
Here it is on the tank:
I think I've posted this already, but the stock bracket that comes with the Razor Nano puts the light back too far for my liking when mounted on the back of the tank, which is the ideal place to mount the light for a number of reasons, I'll touch on some of those later.
The upside down shot glass is the center of the main display.
So, for $50.00 Maxspect sells an alternate stainless steel mounting bracket kit that lets you mount your light in myriad ways, attach multiple lights together, straddle the tank at 90 degrees, etc. Everything but extend the light forward an inch and a half.
I could have simply mounted the light sideways on the tank and removed the glass top, but I really do need the top on the tank, I didn't want to have the glass cut, and on top of that, the brackets are deep enough that they would touch the water surface at times when the MP10 goes through a pulse mode and gets some wave action going. That sounded like a salt creep hassle that I didn't want.
So, what I need to do is extend one of the L bracket rods using one of the straight rods that would be used to connect two lights together.
So, here's what I finally did after playing around with several different possibilities that didn't work out so well. I cut the straight rod down to about 5 1/2 inches long leaving the threaded set screw hole on the far end. I also cut down the L bracket rod a couple of inches. I then used a 5/16-18 die to thread the rods and a 5/16-18 stainless steel coupling nut to put them together. Because of the rod diameter, I was only about to get about 60% depth on the threads, but it's more than enough for this particular application. Additionally, I'll be epoxying the rods into the nuts to keep any saltwater out.
(Ignore the zinc plated nuts in this picture, I used stainless steel ones for the final product)
Here are the finished bracket rods:
The rods are epoxied into the stainless steel coupling nuts.
Here's the original rod next to my modified rod:
Here it is on the tank:
Islandoftiki
New member
I now have plenty of adjustment fore/aft. With the shot glass in the center of the tank, you can see I now have the light mounted slightly forward of center.
I'm very happy with the final product, but it sure was a lot of screwing around just to have this light mounted the way I wanted it. The stainless steel rods are quite a bit more stout and the light doesn't wiggle around so much when changing settings or programming.
I'm very happy with the final product, but it sure was a lot of screwing around just to have this light mounted the way I wanted it. The stainless steel rods are quite a bit more stout and the light doesn't wiggle around so much when changing settings or programming.
Islandoftiki
New member
ATTACKED BY MY MANTIS SHRIMP!
Ok, not really. More like fondled...
By the way, DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME! Every mantis shrimp has it's own personality. This is not the usual interaction. This is why I'm sharing it. It's unusual.
Ok, not really. More like fondled...
By the way, DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME! Every mantis shrimp has it's own personality. This is not the usual interaction. This is why I'm sharing it. It's unusual.
Islandoftiki
New member
Well, as of today, it seems that Betty is going to be molting. The right side of her den is closed up tight. (unfortunately, I'm going to have to rescue my undata frag that she stole AGAIN. I'll be gluing it down and re-closing her burrow.
So, let's hope her molt goes well and maybe she'll have both of her raptorial appendages back to 100%. I'll keep everyone posted on her progress!
Now, if I can just get Chuck to molt!
So, let's hope her molt goes well and maybe she'll have both of her raptorial appendages back to 100%. I'll keep everyone posted on her progress!
Now, if I can just get Chuck to molt!
Kharn
MANTISMAN
How come you don't just gum down your frags ?
It's something that I simply must do to prevent the naturally made perfect sized plug becoming a door to the Stomatopods burrow...
Tanks really nice
I'm seeing a lot of people "over take" me in their setups getting to the final stages of their own layouts and asking me questions that I have not yet actually come to personally experience yet.
I think most forget or underestimate the overall size of what I am working with so it takes at least 8x-10x longer then a single tank setup xD
Either way I love what your doing with your tank and it speaks volume of keeping a species that can get Shell Rot in a tank with reef capable lighting, the fact that you have SPS and the SPS are growing can only mean that your water quality is at that level where shell rot simply cannot live within it, the water is too clean.
It's something that I simply must do to prevent the naturally made perfect sized plug becoming a door to the Stomatopods burrow...
Tanks really nice
I'm seeing a lot of people "over take" me in their setups getting to the final stages of their own layouts and asking me questions that I have not yet actually come to personally experience yet.I think most forget or underestimate the overall size of what I am working with so it takes at least 8x-10x longer then a single tank setup xD
Either way I love what your doing with your tank and it speaks volume of keeping a species that can get Shell Rot in a tank with reef capable lighting, the fact that you have SPS and the SPS are growing can only mean that your water quality is at that level where shell rot simply cannot live within it, the water is too clean
.
Kharn
MANTISMAN
And that's my opinion when it comes to water quality and shell rot...there ain't nothing in stone beyond, water quality, lighting, burrow...
But it is my personal theory and opinion that if you can maintain sps and they are growing healthy, then you need not fear the presence of shell rot in the water, it's the only thing I can come up with since we have no figures or anything else to work with...
Bit like, better be safe then sorry.
But it is my personal theory and opinion that if you can maintain sps and they are growing healthy, then you need not fear the presence of shell rot in the water, it's the only thing I can come up with since we have no figures or anything else to work with...
Bit like, better be safe then sorry.
Islandoftiki
New member
I have been bit by bit. I think I officially have 100% of the frags glued down now as of about 20 minutes ago. The reason I hadn't to date is that the remaining unglued frags were right at the entrance to her burrow and I didn't have the chance to get them glued as she is very vigilant when you're mucking around near her burrow entrances and it had to be done by hand.
Of course, she came out to see what I was doing in the tank as I glued them down, but she stayed in her burrow and left my hand alone. After yesterday, I was a little less concerned about what she would do to me. Just the same, I still have a lot of respect for the sanctity of her burrow and try to not poke around too close to the entrances.
Anyhow, I think we're good to go now. I gave her a few new pieces of rubble for the left side of her burrow so she can close it off completely. Which she is doing as I type this.
Islandoftiki
New member
I'd like to add diet to that list. Vitamin supplements such as Selcon and Vitachem should be included in their diet, IMO.
You're absolutely right though. I think it has to be a holistic approach to mantis keeping. You really have to consider all of their needs.
Islandoftiki
New member
Good news today. Betty has successfully molted. I can't see any more than just her eyes peeking out of the pile of rubble in front of the left entrance, but I can see the old molt shell through a little hole in the right side.
I think that explains why the skimmer cup is half full today. She'll be chowing down on that molt for the next couple days and hopefully I'll see her bright shiny new shell soon.
For now, this is the best picture I can get:
I think that explains why the skimmer cup is half full today. She'll be chowing down on that molt for the next couple days and hopefully I'll see her bright shiny new shell soon.
For now, this is the best picture I can get:
Islandoftiki
New member
I picked up a Jebao WP10 on Amazon prime for like 56 bucks and some change. The price was so good it was time to give one of these inexpensive powerheads a try!
My overall impression is that it brings a lot to the table for the price.
Here's what comes in the box:
And a free random photoresistor? Rumor has it this is for the WP25 and larger models and they just include it in the box. I still don't know. There doesn't seem to be anywhere to install it.
It doesn't take long to set up. Maybe 15 minutes. It's pretty self explanatory, thankfully. Wait 'till you read the instructions.
I set it up opposite of my MP10 and it's more or less directed at the MP10, but at an angle. I set it into one of it's random flow modes (W3).
The instructions are in "Engrish"...
First impressions...
The Good:
It's really low profile and small. Let's say about the size of a Koralia Nano powerhead only the bracket is lower profile. That part is awesome.
It has a magnetic base with a decently strong magnet. Also awesome.
You can rotate it to some extent. Maybe 35 to 40 degrees? (I don't have a protractor on hand) Extra awesome!
It's really powerful for it's size.
The pump is low voltage (24 volts) which leaves little chance for lethal stray voltage should something go wrong.
It has multiple setting!
It's adjustable!
The mediocre:
The controller has a very large ugly blue knob on it.
The instructions are poorly translated in broken English.
Build quality isn't amazing. It's not exactly poor, but it's not that of the MP10.
It's a little unclear what each of the modes really are. (See picture of instructions)
The bad:
Not much, really.
They provide double sided sticky tape to attach the controller. Velcro would be nicer. (I used my own Velcro to attach it)
Long term longevity unknown.
Ok, so my understanding of the different modes are this:
H1, H2 and H3 are basically just high medium and low settings, constant output. (I had already figured that out)
W1 is a short pulse mode that can be adjusted to make waves in the tank if you really want waves.
W2 and W3 are what I expect most people would want. These modes seem to randomly vary the output, like a Vortech reef crest or lagoon mode.
Else mode? I have no clue. You decipher it.
I have it in W3 mode, it's at the opposite side of the tank near the back angled at the Vortech MP-10 which is in Reef Crest mode. What does this do? Some really spectacularly awesome random flow in the tank. Nothing harsh, but really turbulent. Little bits of detritus and small particulate stay much better suspended until they go through the filter. I can't imagine that I'll be finding any dead spots in the tank now. Before the area under the MP-10 was pretty low flow.
Anyhow, it's a nice addition to my MP-10. The WP-10 has a pretty narrow band of flow, while the MP-10 has a really wide flow pattern. If I had to do it over, I would still buy an MP-10 first, but this is a good secondary powerhead if you don't want spend the cash on two MP-10's.
Now, we'll see how long it lasts...
My overall impression is that it brings a lot to the table for the price.
Here's what comes in the box:
And a free random photoresistor? Rumor has it this is for the WP25 and larger models and they just include it in the box. I still don't know. There doesn't seem to be anywhere to install it.
It doesn't take long to set up. Maybe 15 minutes. It's pretty self explanatory, thankfully. Wait 'till you read the instructions.
I set it up opposite of my MP10 and it's more or less directed at the MP10, but at an angle. I set it into one of it's random flow modes (W3).
The instructions are in "Engrish"...
First impressions...
The Good:
It's really low profile and small. Let's say about the size of a Koralia Nano powerhead only the bracket is lower profile. That part is awesome.
It has a magnetic base with a decently strong magnet. Also awesome.
You can rotate it to some extent. Maybe 35 to 40 degrees? (I don't have a protractor on hand) Extra awesome!
It's really powerful for it's size.
The pump is low voltage (24 volts) which leaves little chance for lethal stray voltage should something go wrong.
It has multiple setting!
It's adjustable!
The mediocre:
The controller has a very large ugly blue knob on it.
The instructions are poorly translated in broken English.
Build quality isn't amazing. It's not exactly poor, but it's not that of the MP10.
It's a little unclear what each of the modes really are. (See picture of instructions)
The bad:
Not much, really.
They provide double sided sticky tape to attach the controller. Velcro would be nicer. (I used my own Velcro to attach it)
Long term longevity unknown.
Ok, so my understanding of the different modes are this:
H1, H2 and H3 are basically just high medium and low settings, constant output. (I had already figured that out)
W1 is a short pulse mode that can be adjusted to make waves in the tank if you really want waves.
W2 and W3 are what I expect most people would want. These modes seem to randomly vary the output, like a Vortech reef crest or lagoon mode.
Else mode? I have no clue. You decipher it.
I have it in W3 mode, it's at the opposite side of the tank near the back angled at the Vortech MP-10 which is in Reef Crest mode. What does this do? Some really spectacularly awesome random flow in the tank. Nothing harsh, but really turbulent. Little bits of detritus and small particulate stay much better suspended until they go through the filter. I can't imagine that I'll be finding any dead spots in the tank now. Before the area under the MP-10 was pretty low flow.
Anyhow, it's a nice addition to my MP-10. The WP-10 has a pretty narrow band of flow, while the MP-10 has a really wide flow pattern. If I had to do it over, I would still buy an MP-10 first, but this is a good secondary powerhead if you don't want spend the cash on two MP-10's.
Now, we'll see how long it lasts...
Fartin'Gary
New member
If you get bored with that I have a Hydor pump controller I no longer use for cheap.
Islandoftiki
New member
Betty greeted me for the first time in about a week as I was leaving for work this morning. I only saw the front part of her, but it looks like the molt went well and both of her raptorial appendages are finally back to 100% I'm sure she's going to be happy about that. Hopefully she'll be out and about and back to her daily shenanigans soon.
Islandoftiki
New member
So, we get our first look at Betty after her molt. What's new?
Well, for one, she's about 5% larger and for two, she's exhibiting a bit more fuchsia coloration in her front walking legs and the big muscly part (merus) of her raptorial appendages. It's pretty stunning and I haven't been able to get good pictures of it since she's only come all the way out of her den for just a few seconds so far.
Both of her raptorial appendages are back to 100% size.
Notice the walking legs in the picture, and you can see a tiny bit of the merus behind her antenna scale.
Here, the merus is totally covered by her antenna scale, but you can see her front walking legs which are pretty stunning.
The first discarded piece of molt sitting behind a rock. It's the telson.
She's still fairly shy at this point, but I expect she'll come out for dinner tonight or tomorrow night. I'm hoping to catch a few more pics then.
Well, for one, she's about 5% larger and for two, she's exhibiting a bit more fuchsia coloration in her front walking legs and the big muscly part (merus) of her raptorial appendages. It's pretty stunning and I haven't been able to get good pictures of it since she's only come all the way out of her den for just a few seconds so far.
Both of her raptorial appendages are back to 100% size.
Notice the walking legs in the picture, and you can see a tiny bit of the merus behind her antenna scale.
Here, the merus is totally covered by her antenna scale, but you can see her front walking legs which are pretty stunning.
The first discarded piece of molt sitting behind a rock. It's the telson.
She's still fairly shy at this point, but I expect she'll come out for dinner tonight or tomorrow night. I'm hoping to catch a few more pics then.
Islandoftiki
New member
First video of Betty after her molt. She wasn't interested in showing off, just grabbing dinner and eating it alone in her den.
I'm not expecting much interaction for another week or so.
I'm not expecting much interaction for another week or so.
Kharn
MANTISMAN
I did what you "asked" to get more interactive with my Stomatopods...
I hand fed Minos...and he impaled my finger xD!
Thanks a lot Islandoftiki....
It wasn't much it scared me more then anything hahaha xD I captured it all on record but too my girly scream out of the clip HAHAHA.
Morgoth on the other hand proved in his video why I shouldn't try hand feeding them yet, not only did the large spearer exit the burrow completely but he actually came up the tongs to take a shot at my hand, I proceeded to quickly drop the tongs and swiftly remove my hand.
I hand fed Minos...and he impaled my finger xD!
Thanks a lot Islandoftiki....
It wasn't much it scared me more then anything hahaha xD I captured it all on record but too my girly scream out of the clip HAHAHA.
Morgoth on the other hand proved in his video why I shouldn't try hand feeding them yet, not only did the large spearer exit the burrow completely but he actually came up the tongs to take a shot at my hand, I proceeded to quickly drop the tongs and swiftly remove my hand.
Islandoftiki
New member
I did what you "asked" to get more interactive with my Stomatopods...
I hand fed Minos...and he impaled my finger xD!
Thanks a lot Islandoftiki....
It wasn't much it scared me more then anything hahaha xD I captured it all on record but too my girly scream out of the clip HAHAHA.
Morgoth on the other hand proved in his video why I shouldn't try hand feeding them yet, not only did the large spearer exit the burrow completely but he actually came up the tongs to take a shot at my hand, I proceeded to quickly drop the tongs and swiftly remove my hand.
LOL. I consider myself crazy enough for even attempting physical contact with Betty, but I believe her personality to be on the less aggressive side of what I've seen of O. scyllaurs. What I can't believe are the videos on Youtube of the guy handling a pretty large L. maculata.
Of course, now everybody is trying it. Even people over on Nano-Reef are doing it. What's next? Dogs and cats living together? Mass Hystaria?
kegogut
Active member
lolz I got 2 dogs and 3 cats and they live together =P
Islandoftiki
New member
I couldn't resist using a Ghostbusters quote.
I used to have a retired racing greyhound who was afraid of the two cats in the house. Lol.Similar threads
