seeliger_00
New member
also have there been updates to the svn site or another version of hydra. svn log shows that the last change was made on october 4th. Seems like a pretty active project to go a month with no changes.
Must-haves for EASY DIY controller?
- Thread starter der_wille_zur_macht
- Start date
MA70Snowman
New member
That's what I've been using the DS18B20 is very simple and the one-wire makes it a great choice. The china ones are what I've been using, i got mine for about 4$ each though.
Hey man, not knocking you or anything, and this is in no way in direct reference to you, but to everyone that stumbles on this thread or has been checking in.
These guys have done a great job at already putting as much as possible out there for us. Hell they're essentially GIVING us a controller, w/ no demands in return for their efforts or time.. The least you can do is learn to use Google. I can understand certain questions like "What's that [specific part] being utilized for in that [specific circuit]?" but when you're asking.. how does Microelectronics work? ... "Google".. take it as you will, This is an awsome project and yes 32 pages is a ton, but cleaning up some of the clutter, by removing questions that could be answered w/ a simple google search will definatly help out in the long run.
Seeliger, I was going to put an order in but if you want to organize it, please sign me up for 1.
I used the PN2222, and I think that's the same he used by looking at his picture.
Here's the top of the transistor board, I really need to make the schematic:
And the bottom:
Dustin, looks like you came to a very similar setup that I arrived at. (although your board looks MUCH simpler then mine)
Here's a quick schematic of how mine is wired up.
and a quick pic of mine wired up.
I pretty much pinned two serial connectors for mine similar to what you did. I didn't have any straight-through cables, but I did have two ends laying around so I just cut up some wire and made my own real quick lol.
I've got my arduino w/ the SR-8 and controllboard controlling my lights at the moment w/ the DS1307, and a simple code to turn them on/off when I want. looks like mines a little bit larger, due to using LED's and resistors, I like being able to tell which one is on for some reason. The problem i run into is for some reason I think i'm overloading it somehow. with two lights plugged in.. operates fine.. but once I plug in a 3rd light it kicks off shortly after kicking on.. and I can't figure out why. The A/C shouldn't be affecting the D/C circuit so I don't know what the issue is. How has yours been working for you?
I'm curious about your 317, and the 7805, it also looks like you're driving yours with 7.2v vs the 5volts I'm running. Would be interested in comparing and contrasting notes via PM if you'd be willing, but I figured I'd at least share my schematics for everyone else to get an idea.
DustinB
New member
Been sick today so I'll just comment real quick on your schematic. You have A2 & A1 grounded on the mcp23008. They are +5v on mine, that may have something to do with it.
Here's a schematic I was working on yesterday:
Basically I wanted to have one power supply, I made my own wall wart putting out 12v regulated. When it comes into the relay board the LM317 switches it to 7.2v to power the hydra board and the 7805 for the transistors. 12v is also allowed to power the relay strip. I'll try to comment some more on it tomorrow.
Here's a schematic I was working on yesterday:
Basically I wanted to have one power supply, I made my own wall wart putting out 12v regulated. When it comes into the relay board the LM317 switches it to 7.2v to power the hydra board and the 7805 for the transistors. 12v is also allowed to power the relay strip. I'll try to comment some more on it tomorrow.
MA70Snowman
New member
Been sick today so I'll just comment real quick on your schematic. You have A2 & A1 grounded on the mcp23008. They are +5v on mine, that may have something to do with it.
Here's a schematic I was working on yesterday:
Basically I wanted to have one power supply, I made my own wall wart putting out 12v regulated. When it comes into the relay board the LM317 switches it to 7.2v to power the hydra board and the 7805 for the transistors. 12v is also allowed to power the relay strip. I'll try to comment some more on it tomorrow.
Okay that sounds exactly where I was looking at going, I just didn't know enough to implement that properly. But I'm pretty sure I understand now.
btw the only reason ours differs on the MCP23008 is because A0,A1,A2 are used to set the addressing, all that affects is the coding.
seeliger_00
New member
Mouser Part: 810-FK14X5R0J106K
Would this be suitable through hole replacement to the SMD cap on C10?
Sounds like the current eagle files on the svn site are good to go. I will be putting the buy in for 10 boards tomorrow. TeraHz, DustinB or DWZM please confirm the subversion eagle files (revision 37) on the site are the best recommendation for build currently.
Here is the list of board requests I have so far:
Myself - 4 boards
Names - 1 board
5ft24 - 1 board
Fishman - 2 boards
snowman - 1 board
Would this be suitable through hole replacement to the SMD cap on C10?
Sounds like the current eagle files on the svn site are good to go. I will be putting the buy in for 10 boards tomorrow. TeraHz, DustinB or DWZM please confirm the subversion eagle files (revision 37) on the site are the best recommendation for build currently.
Here is the list of board requests I have so far:
Myself - 4 boards
Names - 1 board
5ft24 - 1 board
Fishman - 2 boards
snowman - 1 board
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
seeliger_00, The current files will work but as we mentioned before U11 is reversed. Other than that, there are some things that should be fixed but do not affect any functionality (C14 and C30 have been removed since the first board but the board caps have not been renamed; all resistor packages are 0204/7 but all resistors in the bom except R23 are 0204/5; C37 is a tad too close to C35... things like that). Also I will be testing the board with a through hole ferrite bead and if that part works we will eliminate the tiny SMD ferrite.
If you want to order, go ahead. You will have a working Hydra. If you can wait a few more days, the board will be ready.
EDIT: cap part number should do for C10 btw.
If you want to order, go ahead. You will have a working Hydra. If you can wait a few more days, the board will be ready.
EDIT: cap part number should do for C10 btw.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
I second terahz's suggestion. Wait a few days until the final rev is out. 
PS - thanks to terahz and dustin for maintaining the momentum during my hiatus.
PS - thanks to terahz and dustin for maintaining the momentum during my hiatus.
seeliger_00
New member
Roger that DWZM. Impatiently waiting! Thanks for the update and keep up the good work.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
There is a potential for conflict with hard-wiring address pins on the MCP23008's since we're using them so prolifically on this project. On the mainboard, we've hard-wired an address of 111 (all three are high).
I would strongly suggest anyone making an "expansion board" to design the board with either jumpers or solder bridges to set the address pins. This way, we can mix and match address boards with zero concern for conflict, and we don't have to maintain a register of which expansion board has which hard-wired address.
This may be obvious, but I'd also suggest expansion boards be designed with communication header(s) pinout(s) (i.e. I2C) in the same order as the pinouts on the mainboard, so a "straight" cable or direct plugging can be used to connect. It would also be nice if expansion boards were made with a "spare" connector for whichever bus was used. This way, if you were using two or three I2C breakout boards, you could just use a few straight cables to connect them, instead of having to do a messy custom wiring harness.
These are just a few thoughts. We are probably getting near to the point where we need to come up with either a reference design for breakout boards, or at least some sort of informal guideline. I'd like the open spirit of the project to be carried through peoples' own customizations or expansion modules such that people can mix and match without worry of conflict.
5ft24
New member
Put a diode in series with the power from the FTDI... if the laptop is less than the voltage from the 7805, then the 7805 is trying to pass current to the laptop via the FTDI.
nauticac4
Baby Fish Wrangler
DustinB
Been trying to learn eagle and get a board together for the relay setup. Did the schematic and working thru a few of the errors also had a fun time finding a few of the parts so had to download some libraries from Adafruit and Sparkfun.
Is there any easy way to go from schematic to the board without having to redrop all the components?
Been trying to learn eagle and get a board together for the relay setup. Did the schematic and working thru a few of the errors also had a fun time finding a few of the parts so had to download some libraries from Adafruit and Sparkfun.
Is there any easy way to go from schematic to the board without having to redrop all the components?
DustinB
New member
I wish I could tell you, I'm a little new to eagle myself. I have been unable to edit the schematic without having to do the board over. Maybe DWZM or TeraHz will comment on this. I didn't find much on google.
MA70Snowman, now that I can see straight again for the first time in 2 days, if your board is the same as your schematic, then I "may" see your problem. On the output pins of the port expander you have it going pin->resistor->LED->transistor. You are dropping the voltage going into the base of the transistor. Try having the base wired parallel to the LED instead of in series with it. You need a full 5v on base of the transistor.
IE: (LED) = EXP PIN -> Resistor -> LED
(Transistor) = EXP PIN -> Transistor
MA70Snowman, now that I can see straight again for the first time in 2 days, if your board is the same as your schematic, then I "may" see your problem. On the output pins of the port expander you have it going pin->resistor->LED->transistor. You are dropping the voltage going into the base of the transistor. Try having the base wired parallel to the LED instead of in series with it. You need a full 5v on base of the transistor.
IE: (LED) = EXP PIN -> Resistor -> LED
(Transistor) = EXP PIN -> Transistor
MA70Snowman
New member
dustin, just a quick side comment as you and me are running similar setups. but wouldn't it be possible, instead of taking a 12V and stepping down, but taking a 5V and stepping UP? (I.E. use the exsting 5V comming off the Hydra/arduino and stepping it up to the 12v required for the relays?)
ah ha, I see what you're saying about the wiring. I believe I went that route but Can't remember why I didn't. I will try and resolder for parrallel. Actually I think I tried the LED in parallel with the transistor but STILL had the resistor before both of them. I'll give that a shot.
and DWZM, I totally understand where you're comming from and those are some GREAT suggestions/ideas and they would simplify things as well.
ah ha, I see what you're saying about the wiring. I believe I went that route but Can't remember why I didn't. I will try and resolder for parrallel. Actually I think I tried the LED in parallel with the transistor but STILL had the resistor before both of them. I'll give that a shot.
and DWZM, I totally understand where you're comming from and those are some GREAT suggestions/ideas and they would simplify things as well.
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der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
I left any sort of "power select" logic out because I figured the FTDI header would only be for very occasional use once in "production" mode. Regardless of if you program your Hydra "in circuit" (i.e. installed on the fish tank) or take it out and bring it to a PC to program, IMHO it is very bad practice to program it while connected to anything "live" i.e. relays, sensors, or other hardware, as the behavior of these devices can be unpredictable during programming. In other words, I feel that it is good practice to pull the device when programming, hence I don't really think that "power select" hardware is strictly required.
Just my thoughts though, it would be easy to add if people wanted it there.
Go through the sparkfun tutorials. It will give a good basic grasp. If you are starting from scratch with a new schematic, once you've drawn it up, all you have to do is switch to the board for that project and it'll put all the appropriate packages on the board with airwires (the thin yellow lines). Then you just move them around and connect the pins by routing the wires. There is an auto route function but it's "dumb" in the sense that it doesn't follow "good practice" unless you teach it to. And if you know enough to teach it good rules, you can probably route by hand faster than setting all the rules up.
As far as editing an existing project, you shouldn't need to re-do the board after tinkering with the schematic. If you're adding parts you'll just get those parts on the board with airwires that you have to replace with traces. If you're swapping parts you can use the "swap" tool (instead of removing the old one and adding the new one) and it'll connect it right back up on the board, assuming the package is the same. If you guys get stuck with something specific, post up here and I am sure someone will help.
Also, You guys might want to put base load resistors between the MCP23008 output pins and the base of the transistors. I'd check current there when they're on and add a resistor if it looks too high. It's possible that you are exceeding the max current draw of the device and it's shutting off. You don't need THAT much current to turn those transistors on.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
There's no such thing as a dirt simple boost circuit. You're always talking switching (you can't use a linear device to step up) and that means you're going to have a diode and inductor and some noise to deal with. Cheap linear regs like the 7805 or LM317 are dirt simple to use. And, since we're all using 120v AC as a source (instead of a low voltage battery) it's a little simpler to feed your entire circuit via a a DC power source that's equal to or higher than your highest voltage requirement, and then step down from there with simple linear regs.
Plus, the 5v supply onboard the Hydra mainboard is certainly not without limits. We're all probably going to be pretty close to overloading it in fact. In other words, I don't think it's good practice to use the 5v "source" from the Hydra mainboard to power other stuff. Adding a 12v boost circuit to supply a bunch of 12v relays would almost certainly fry something.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
When you're on the schematic view, the "switch to board" button is the 4th or 5th button over just under the menus. It looks like a little logic gate over a PDIP package. The very first time you switch on a new project, it'll prompt you that a board does not exist, and ask if you want to create one - just hit yes, and it'll drop all the packages, connected by airwires, on a blank canvas.
Note that the Lite version of Eagle has a board size restriction, so if any of your parts are outside this region it'll give you a cryptic error message. The sad part is that it often drops new parts outside the region, so you can't do anything with them until you move them to "safe" coordinates.
You'll also want to sketch a board outline on the appropriate layer(s) to give yourself a canvas to work on. After that, I typically group components according to purpose (put power supply stuff in one pile, ICs and related parts in other piles, and so on. Then I put the piles in appropriate spots on the board outline. Then I lay out each pile, adjusting position and orientation to get the best routing.
Note that the Lite version of Eagle has a board size restriction, so if any of your parts are outside this region it'll give you a cryptic error message. The sad part is that it often drops new parts outside the region, so you can't do anything with them until you move them to "safe" coordinates.
You'll also want to sketch a board outline on the appropriate layer(s) to give yourself a canvas to work on. After that, I typically group components according to purpose (put power supply stuff in one pile, ICs and related parts in other piles, and so on. Then I put the piles in appropriate spots on the board outline. Then I lay out each pile, adjusting position and orientation to get the best routing.
MA70Snowman
New member
hey DWZM, not sure if I"m following you on this one. I AM running resistors in line to my transistors, very similar to what you're recommending. so not to sure where you're going with this. you also say "too high" of a current.. what would be too high?
sanddune600
Premium Member
Dustin you mention something about a certain order for soldering for the battery what do I need to know
