My 748 Gal A.G.E. Aquaillumination SOL lit Texas Dream Tank Build!

[bullitr]

Sorry to hear sir
you might have velvet that's a killer that wipe out my tank for a year even with going fallow for a while and qt all my fish for 2 months

Also ozone really helps I have a cheap one right now works good on controlling the achilles ick but i want a better one to eliminate the ick all together so We are in communication with Ching chai manufacturer to ship some of the best ozone reactor in this hemisphere. It's only 204 dollars or 6500 bhat but shipping is around $ 125 but we are still trying to get a better deal on shipping .

PM me of your interested with ozone reactor.

 

[AJT]

I have a big ozotec ozone still in the box, just have not hooked it up yet.

 

[AJT]

 

[Dustin1300]

AJ, sorry to hear and we all have that fear...Especially since I'm stepping in the big tank arena with a large system I worry about having a setback like this. Losing the money is not fun but the devastation is that you put all that hard work in. You've got the right attitude about it. :thumbsup:

Regarding the UV, it's a hit or miss topic and honestly don't think your going to see much benefit from it. I would pick up a 75 gallon and put the living fish in the tank so you can observe and treat appropriately. After leaving your DT fallow for a couple months you can add the fish back in and start stocking it again. Sounds like a good deal on the source you have too so they can take the QT process out of the picture.

 

[david00061]

Sorry to hear this

 

[maxxII]

AJ, sorry to hear and we all have that fear...Especially since I'm stepping in the big tank arena with a large system I worry about having a setback like this. Losing the money is not fun but the devastation is that you put all that hard work in. You've got the right attitude about it. :thumbsup:

Regarding the UV, it's a hit or miss topic and honestly don't think your going to see much benefit from it. I would pick up a 75 gallon and put the living fish in the tank so you can observe and treat appropriately. After leaving your DT fallow for a couple months you can add the fish back in and start stocking it again. Sounds like a good deal on the source you have too so they can take the QT process out of the picture.

Andy,
I'm sorry to hear about your losses...I know how heartbreaking that can be.
In would agree with Dustin in that I dont think the UV is going to do much for your system. Its going to kill the bacteria and pathogens that pass through it, (especially if you slow the flow down), but in a system the size of yours, the bacteria or pathogen will most likely reproduce faster than the UV kills it.

How fast did the fish die? Was it a sudden loss or something more gradual. I'm not thinking velvet for the simple fact that you seem to a mixed bag of survivors. Velvet usually leaves very little alive behind it...and it works fast.

I would suggest trying to figure out what caused the losses. Determining what the bacteria/pathogen was that killed the fish is paramount to determining if the tank needs to be fish free for 30 days, or longer, or if it doesnt matter.

Once you know what it was, you'll be able to find out how to kill it and prevent it from coming back.

Nick

 

[AJT]

Pretty sure it was amyloodinium/ich.

Fish died pretty quick, 10 days. I am running a cycle if hick ich since it is the only med I can put in the reef. We will se what happens.

 

[BigOldReef]

I'm not going to say that this disaster could have been avoided. But I have been keeping saltwater fish for a long time, and ozone and UV have some great benefits for aquarium stability and fish health.

Since you already have the Ozone, I definitely would get it hooked up and running. But with a tank controller this is easy to control.

Your UV is probably too small for a system of your size. You just won't be getting enough contact time. But on your To-Do list, the cost of adding an appropriate sized UV to your system is really just a couple of fish.

Someone posted about the added heat by adding a UV. This is true they do add some heat. But it's easy to manage the risk of this by adding the UV to your aquarium controller.

 

[AJT]

I called emperor Aquatics & they reccomended this one:

150 Watt Aquarium SMART High-Output UV Sterilizer with 2" union inlet/outlets, a 5" diameter body, and a single 150 watt HO uv lamp and quartz sleeve. The 150 watt SMART HO UV offers a suggested flow rate of 5,040 GPH and a maximum flow rate of 6,360 GPH for aquariums of up to 1,060 US Gallons, and for targeting waterborne Algae and harmful Bacteria. Great for Fresh and Salt Water Aquariums.

About $ 1000.00. at fish tank direct

Dang this thing is 70" long. Wish I could find a more compact model.


What is the down side of a UV? Less food for corals floating around...

BigOldReef, any input is appreciated.

 

[geaux xman]

Sorry to hear about the fish issues, believe me I've been down that road before and can relate.

If you dont mind, what all fish you ended up losing?

 

[SPS_77493]

Pretty sure it was amyloodinium/ich.

Yup, marine velvet disease. It happened to me a year ago, lost about 14 fish in less than 3 days. Some of my tangs were more than 5 yrs. old.

 

[BigOldReef]

AJT,

I have heard compliments about the Emperor UV. I have not used one myself. Look for an ASM UV unit. It's made by All Seas Marine, who distributes them but does not sell them directly. It might be less of an expense and not quite so large.

I think the flow rates you cited from Emperor may be a little high for effectiveness.

The downsides of the UV are:
1) It can add heat to the tank
2) It's another item that requires regular maintenance to function optimally - This means breaking it down and soaking the quartz sleeve in vinegar, as the calcium in your system will love grabbing a hold of the hot quartz sleeve. These sleeves are very fragile and you can expect to break one at some point in time.
3) A properly installed UV will Zap everything that passes through it, good and bad. This means your pods that flow through will not be swimming on their way out. Now in my opinion in a well established aquarium this is not going to be a 'critical' issue. And having seen all the different food products my fish and critters eat, I'm not so sure that zapped pods are not still a food source for them.

Now as far as the biology lesson as to what it does or does not do to particular viruses in our aquarium, I'll let others who may or may not have actual knowledge and experience boast/vent about that.

I will say that I have had the opportunity to visit most of the major wholesalers in the industry, and UV is a component part of their systems. As is ozone. I have also toured public aquaria across the country, and you can find UV installed on their systems as well.

UV has been around a long time, and it is certainly not a 'fad' item.

If you have more specific queries, feel free to ask.

Dave

 

[AJT]

Sorry to hear about the fish issues, believe me I've been down that road before and can relate.

If you dont mind, what all fish you ended up losing?

10 anthesis, 2 triggers, 3 clown fish that were 12 yrs old , 2 yellow tanks, clown tang, 1 manderin.

These seem unafected: Flame hawk, 3 bar gobies, 3 wrasses, 6 chromis, a few others.

 

[AJT]

I think the flow rates you cited from Emperor may be a little high for effectiveness

I think the effective flow rate was about 850 GPH. Kind of hard to figure out what is 850 gph with a baracuda pump. If I remember right it was about 5600 gph which is divided into 4 outlets.

I would like to plumb it just before the chiller which is outside in an enclosure, that would be the easiest place to install.. At least the water would go straight into a chiller when it is running. Also thought of just running it at night when the water temp drops & heaters run.

Not sure if it can just be run for instance 12-18 hrs a day or does it need to run 24/7?

 

[AJT]

Anyone know of a model that can be put outside? Most the UVs I have looked at are too long to fit into my 34" enclosure so it would be a plus if the unit could be set up on my patio. Ballast could be put inside my enclosure.

 

[BigOldReef]

The ASM units are weatherproof with the ballast in a waterproof enclosure. Mine has been sitting outside and coated in saltcreep for about 6-7 years. Just make sure that you mount it so you have access to get the bulbs and the glass tubes out for cleaning and replacement.

 

[danfeig]

I am very sorry for your losses. It is a painful experience that happens to the best of us.

The UV will definitely help your system. It won't remove the ich from your fish, however, when the ich goes through its cycle in your tank (I believe there are 3 stages), the UV will kill the swimming bacteria before it can find a new host.

I would continue to add garlic and selcon to the fish in your existing system.

Again, I am sorry that you are having to go through this.

 

[AJT]

Thanks everyone, first time this has happened to me in 35 yrs. I'm just sorry for the fish. We kind of take an oath when we buy them to give them the best life possible & I failed.

BigOldReef - I am having a hard time finding ASM UV's online. i sure do not want to buy a unit that I will be having problems buying parts for later on. I am sure none of the companies engineer their own bulbs, they just buy them from a UV manufacturer. I wonder who uses the best bulbs.

Think I will start another thread on this forum getting everyones opinions & ideas.

 

[coondog]

Aqua Ultraviolet(UV) is a uv reactor that is made for outdoor ponds and they come in different styles and sizes. I used a 25 watt on my little 72 gallon b/c of an algae bloom and it was clear in two days. These uv reactors are built to be outside in the elements.

 

[Crazy_Beaver]

Sorry to hear about the problem!!

As I just have caught up with this thread let me just say you have an amazing tank and two amazing rides!!!:inlove::inlove::inlove::inlove: