My journey using Chloroquine Phosphate begins...

HumbleFish said:
Don't do that. Just learn from your mistakes and move on from them. Mistake #1 was not QT'ing your fish before putting them in the DT. Mistake #2 was getting bad advice & CP from Fishman (not really your fault).

I also suspect you are dealing with Velvet here; not Ich. Usually when fish start dropping like flies... it's Velvet. Sorry for your losses.
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Hehe thanks for the words of encouragement. I don't think its velvet. (not to be arrogant) I have been in this hobby for over 15 years and dealt with all kind of diseases.

But recently, these wholesalers are shipping fishes with all kind of weird diseases that I have never seen.

After doing the 50% water change, the tank got cloudy afterwards.

Yesterday, I pulled out my yellow belly regal that was eating. That was literally the last straw. I think I am going to take a break. I decided to take down the tank this weekend and give my remaining hooded/nahackyi, regals, and barletts to my friend....

too depressing.
 
Psionicdragon said:
So I emailed fishman as I was a bit ticked. I do believe they know what they are selling, but still not sure about their quality:

"We have thousands of customers who have used this same material with satisfactory results. Are you positive it is ich, and not fungus. Fungus can be mistaken for ich quite easily, and can only be treated with Acriflavine Neutral. Please also be sure you are dosing as follows. 25 grams per 1000 gallons daily for ten straight days. Administer a dose after doing a minimum 20% waterchange. After administering medicine, all filtration should be turned off, including skimmers and UV, for the first 6-8 hours. After this period, all activity of the Chloroquine is spent due to oxidation, so then turn all filtration back on high. You are now trying to remove all medication and dead parasites from the water before administering the next days dose. Chloroquine is also very unpalletable for fish, so if they refuse to eat, this is the reason. Treatment must continue."
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based on my experience and what I have read this does not make sense to me...

again, I have had excellent results from using their products over several years, no issues whatsoever

also, keep in mind there are many ways to reach the same result in this hobby, regardless of what is considered "usual and customary", they may indeed have had good results with their approach
 
Quick questions, does CP affect ammonia tests? I setup my qt put a large amount of live rock in since I have a lot of fish going in, added 60g of saltwater then added 2 ounces of CP solution, the next morning I tested and the test shows 1.0-1.5 ammonia. I did a 33% water change and added more CP for the amount lost and I'm still have ammonia of around 1.0, my DT shows 0 and RO water shows 0. I did notice a die off of bristleworms and suck out the ones on the bottom.

Also do you have to ramp up CP or can I add fish to the QT with it already at treatment level .75mg/gal.
 
The ammonia spike is likely from the invertebrate die off you noted. I have noticed some loss of biofilter efficiency when using CP. I always have Prime at the ready, and it can be used with CP with no ill effect IME.

You do not have to ramp up CP. It is a "one and done" medication.
 
zland1 said:
Quick questions, does CP affect ammonia tests? I setup my qt put a large amount of live rock in since I have a lot of fish going in, added 60g of saltwater then added 2 ounces of CP solution, the next morning I tested and the test shows 1.0-1.5 ammonia. I did a 33% water change and added more CP for the amount lost and I'm still have ammonia of around 1.0, my DT shows 0 and RO water shows 0. I did notice a die off of bristleworms and suck out the ones on the bottom.

Also do you have to ramp up CP or can I add fish to the QT with it already at treatment level .75mg/gal.
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Yes, CP does affect certain ammonia test kits, giving false positives...API in particular. It has been noted before on the UK chloroquine thread as well.
 
ironwill723 said:
Yes, CP does affect certain ammonia test kits, giving false positives...API in particular. It has been noted before on the UK chloroquine thread as well.
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I assume this includes the Seachem Ammonia Alert badge as well. I have noticed that it seems to hover between the green and yellow color consistently. I dose Prime once a day just to make sure.
 
Does anyone else know if its ok to use products like prime I thought I had read that it messes with the treatment or maybe that was copper something about bonding with molecules needed by the other?
I need to get my fish in the qt asap I lost my powder brown tang yesterday but I'm afraid that if I put them in qt now they will die to ammonia in there weaken state and I only have api tests that I can't trust...
 
I have used Prime with CP with no ill effect. You can't use Prime with Cupramine, as it breaks the amine complex, increasing the Cu concentration.

I've also used Prazipro with CP on occasion, but the preferred method is to treat with prazi before CP, since prazi's effectiveness is supposedly reduced by CP.
 
Deinonych said:
I assume this includes the Seachem Ammonia Alert badge as well. I have noticed that it seems to hover between the green and yellow color consistently. I dose Prime once a day just to make sure.
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IME; it seems to take a few days for those Seachem ammonia alert badges to "settle in" sometimes. Mine sometimes won't stay consistent until they've been in the water for 3 or 4 days. Then they stay white/yellow unless the ammonia spikes. With or without medication (including CP).
 
I measure the dry powder with a milligram scale, then dissolve in a small amount of RO/DI. Then dump it into the HOB filter.
 
zland1 said:
I mixed my 10gram bag with 4oz of distilled water, then added 2oz to my 60g of water for a 75mg/gal treatment.
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I think you used too much. 75mg/g in 60g comes out to 4.5 grams dry powder. If you mixed 10g in 4 oz of water, you should have used 1.8 oz of solution. 2 oz of solution comes out to 83.3mg/g, which is above the recommended maximum dose. I would do a 10% water change to get it back down below the max level.
 
Deinonych said:
I think you used too much. 75mg/g in 60g comes out to 4.5 grams dry powder. If you mixed 10g in 4 oz of water, you should have used 1.8 oz of solution. 2 oz of solution comes out to 83.3mg/g, which is above the recommended maximum dose. I would do a 10% water change to get it back down below the max level.
Click to expand...
wow thanks for that you're right I went by what the guy said that sold it but he did say approximately 2oz for 60g, I should have double checked. My original math I did was for 55g which came to 4.125grams so it was close enough to where I didn't check. I don't think it's quite at 83.3mg/g snice when you add 10g to the 4oz of water it becomes 4.35oz (I think) so 2oz has 4.59g which is 76.6mg/g(could someone check my math lol its been awhile) so it's not that far off but is over. sorry I started to type as I did the math.
 
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