New Gigantea/Nitrofurazone

Ah, thx for the pointer on the tan gigs. I didn't see those on bluezoo earlier (need to click on the main "Anemones" link as opposed to just "Inverts on sale" - duh!). Totally reasonable on price.

I've been reading through a post started by user:Amoo on another site. In addition to Cipro, he also advises SMZ & TP which I'm guessing is this: http://www.fishmoxfishflex.com/inde...thoprim-fish-sulfa-forte-fish-antibiotic.html
(or am I not supposed to be linking this stuff?)

The protocol also calls for dimmable LED lighting at 14K. Loads of bulbs on eBay but tough to find something dimmable on Amazon. Any recommendations or alternatives?
 
You can start with a tan gig and get your feet wet treating gigs. Blue zoo has them in stock. Colored gigs can require patience. Tan gigs may not look as fancy but are still very enjoyable. When a blue one comes your way, you'll be ready. Try Cipro. They are easy to get on eBay.

Live Aquaria has them as well. Sometimes you get lucky with tan gigs and they are actually multicolor or have a rainbow sheen.

I don't see much conflicting advice here. Nitrofurazone isn't a good choice even if recommended by some dealers.

I would only use Ciprofloxacin with giganteas - it's the only one that worked for me.
Septra, the second choice, has worked for me with fish diseases, but so far not with anemones. And I wouldn't take any gamble if I have Cipro on hand. I
f you look for a source that doesn't require a prescription google "Fish flox"

I only use Cipro as well. I tried Septra a couple of times only to have the nems die. But others apparently have had success with it.

One dealer who recommended Nitrofurazone doesn't have a very good track record of shipping nems, particularly gigantea. He claims to treat his nems with Nitrofurazone for a month, but after the nems are shipped, they still die. Those of us with healthy gigs will probably agree that shipping a healthy gig won't kill it, which leads me to believe that the nems he shipped were still sick. It's possible that he did hold them for a month as he claimed, but maybe added other nems during that one month timeframe which could've introduced a pathogen.

Nitrofurazone is still commonly available, as one part of Furan-2. I've tried it in the past with a 0% success rate.

Ah, thx for the pointer on the tan gigs. I didn't see those on bluezoo earlier (need to click on the main "Anemones" link as opposed to just "Inverts on sale" - duh!). Totally reasonable on price.

I've been reading through a post started by user:Amoo on another site. In addition to Cipro, he also advises SMZ & TP which I'm guessing is this: http://www.fishmoxfishflex.com/inde...thoprim-fish-sulfa-forte-fish-antibiotic.html
(or am I not supposed to be linking this stuff?)

The protocol also calls for dimmable LED lighting at 14K. Loads of bulbs on eBay but tough to find something dimmable on Amazon. Any recommendations or alternatives?

For a first treatment, I wouldn't use anything other than Cipro. It's been proven to work. The other antibiotics don't have a success rate as high as Cipro.

Regarding lighting, I really don't think it matters. I've used everything from a small LED desk lamp sold at Ikea to a Kessil A150. IME Cipro appears to bleach nems, so depending on your belief it could make them less able to process light, or needing more light to help grow the zoox population.
 
One thing to add:

Treat for at least 7 days, regardless how good the anemone may look. Stopping earlier is recipe for disaster!
 
I'm a 100% Cipro believer. Why try anything else? Cipro is proven. People fail to remember/admit/realize, there's more than medication to blame when failure happens.
 
Thanks for the advice, all. Definitely excited to try things out and also attempt to do what's best for the anemone. While I'm frustrated with availability, I'm definitely remaining patient when it comes to transitioning these guys.
 
Question on the QT procedure... those of you that are using seeded bio-wheel HOBs, as you're switching over to a fresh tank (or wiping out the single QT tank each change) what do you do about the seeded material. Can't reuse it, right? Seems like it's kinda extraneous unless you're using multiple bio-wheels each time.

If you're not using this method of biological filtration, sponge filter? No bio necessary?
 
When you don't feed the anemone, they will not produce ammonia. Rather they will consume nutrients if you give him light.
If he is sick and you are treating him, daily 100% water change will take care of any ammonia produced from tissue break down of a sick anemone.
 
No feeding. Just good light.


I was reading a post from someone on another forum that suggests sterilizing the tank after every waterchange. Do you find this to be neccesary? I have been draining all the water but not actually cleaning the tank itself.
 
When I do a 100% water change I usually also clean the tank and equipment - not necessarily a full scale disinfection, but a thorough cleaning.
 
When I do a 100% water change I usually also clean the tank and equipment - not necessarily a full scale disinfection, but a thorough cleaning.
I almost always have the anemone attach to something. Take him out with his attachment (cup) and clean the tank, fairly well, but not scrub or disinfect or anything like that. I cleaned the algae on the side and bottom of the tank. Do not clean the PH or heater. If the egg crate is significantly discolored I replaced it with another clean one, and thoroughly clean it and dry it for next time. I have several egg crate pieces that I use.
 
Like OrionN, I like having my nems attach to a plate or live rock, just nothing too deep where it traps dead zoox and detritus. As soon as I see anything expelled from the nem, I try to remove it.

I took advantage of Petco's $1/gallon sale and bought two 10 gallon tanks specifically for anemone QT. Right before lights out, I drain the water from the dirty tank, remove the nem and place it in the new tank, then siphon in clean water. I feel as though this simulates the tide coming in, but it's probably not needed. I've seen a lot of photos of gigantea exposed to air, so having it out of water isn't a concern.

While the tank is filling, I remove the heater, eggcrate and power head and wipe them down with a paper towel. When the tank is full, I add the heater and fire up the powerhead, then add the Cipro. I add the light back the next morning. Just remember that Cipro is light sensitive, which is why we add it at night.

Also, get yourself a cheap pill grinder. It makes a nice, fine powder that will quickly disperse in salt water.
 
Like OrionN, I like having my nems attach to a plate or live rock, just nothing too deep where it traps dead zoox and detritus. As soon as I see anything expelled from the nem, I try to remove it.

I took advantage of Petco's $1/gallon sale and bought two 10 gallon tanks specifically for anemone QT. Right before lights out, I drain the water from the dirty tank, remove the nem and place it in the new tank, then siphon in clean water. I feel as though this simulates the tide coming in, but it's probably not needed. I've seen a lot of photos of gigantea exposed to air, so having it out of water isn't a concern.

While the tank is filling, I remove the heater, eggcrate and power head and wipe them down with a paper towel. When the tank is full, I add the heater and fire up the powerhead, then add the Cipro. I add the light back the next morning. Just remember that Cipro is light sensitive, which is why we add it at night.

Also, get yourself a cheap pill grinder. It makes a nice, fine powder that will quickly disperse in salt water.

Thanks. Ive been letting the pill sit in a few ounces of water for a few minutes and then using a milk frother to blend it. Definitely seems to blend it well.
 
I like ceramic dishes as substrate:

attachment.php


It seems the anemones like it as well as they usually stay put there.
 
I like ceramic dishes as substrate:

attachment.php


It seems the anemones like it as well as they usually stay put there.

That's a good idea. I have been using a dinner plate but maybe the plant terra cotta type would be better since it's Has a little texture to it.
 
Back
Top