NEW plumbing method for an ULTRA QUIET REEF TANK!!!! LONG !!!!
- Thread starter Herbie
- Start date
PowermanKW
New member
got ya ok. just was being confused with all the arguments about suction
How so?
darb85
New member
just after reading everything twice, I understand it now but the argument back and forth between you and someone else at first glance was extremly confusing. once i slowed down it was good, but when you answered that there was no siphon to a herbie, to a post on me asking if there needed to be a ball valve i started to second guess.
No biggie:bounce3:
PowermanKW
New member
Cool. Sometimes side tracks can get confusing. Certainly not the intention. Hope you are all squared away now. The Herbie is worth it.
d2mini
Premium Member
I've read most of this thread but then get confused by those trying to make improvements.
So what is the BEST way to go for the main drain? Just an open pipe? Or a pipe with cap and a bunch of holes drilled at the top 10" or so? Something else?
And how far from the water surface should the main drain be?
So what is the BEST way to go for the main drain? Just an open pipe? Or a pipe with cap and a bunch of holes drilled at the top 10" or so? Something else?
And how far from the water surface should the main drain be?
PowermanKW
New member
An open pipe is fine, but you have to keep crap out from clogging the drain. So you need a screen of some sort for insurance. You can do it a variety of ways, a pipe with holes and a cap on top being one of them.
It does not really matter how deep it is just as long as is it totally submerged. Also, the deeper it does, the more water you will drain out of the overflow box. I mean the system would work fine with no pipe at all, but you would drain the whole overflow box every time you turned off the pump.
Haxer
Member
Ive read through the thread several times but i am still concerned about one thing, If i have read right I will need to take my 2 1" drains and bring them together to one single 2" drain with a gate valve to properly tune my system... It is a 220 with 2 1" drains and 2 3/4 backups.
PowermanKW
New member
The water level in the overflow is set by the valve adjustment, it is not determined by main drain pipe height.
PowermanKW
New member
Yes, that how it seems to me too to work the best. I don't have duals though. Just remember, you don't tie two 1" lines into a 1" line. You use a tee with two 1" lines teeing to a 1.5" or even a two if you can get that. You just want to know that the two 1" lines can flow free. I'm sure you can google flow rates for 1", 1.5" and 2" pipe. Then just put your valve on the big line and you won't have to worry about matching each side.
d2mini
Premium Member
I'm setting mine up as two separate 1" drains, draining into the sump into one 7" filter sock. I know the chance of a 2" drain clogging is next to nil, but I don't see how it's better to T them together vs just leaving them as two separate drains, especially when the e-drain shouldn't be draining at all unless the first drain is clogged.
das75
New member
Found when playing around I got the height stable just with a bulkhead on the floor but still had the drop (noise). By adding a short standpipe, able to raise the water level up.
PowermanKW
New member
I'm not exactly sure what you mean. It does not make sense.
You set the height with the valve, all the way up to overflowing the tank. There is no drop noise, the pipe is completely full all the way to the sump.
PowermanKW
New member
Because then you need to adjust 2 separate valves and there is no way you are going to match them perfectly. Anything you do to one will effect the other. Seems most folks find it a night mare and never get it balanced. Tieing them together eliminates that. It isn't about clogging, it is about balancing two individual drains.
PowermanKW
New member
Yes, I said what I said to Haxer because he has dual overflows. You don't, I was just speaking of duals.
PowermanKW
New member
Absolutely. I love it. One of the best mods I've done.
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