New Reef Octupus Skimmer Thread (Pacific Coast Imports)

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6918742#post6918742 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nikonosis
Do you have any idea if it looks the same as the oceanrunner needlewheel?

I'm sorry if someone has already clarified this, buti t looks nothing like an OR needlewheel and for those who have said so, I don't think they have actually ever seen one on an OR 3700. The OR 3700 needlewheel has 4 rows of radial spokes that have no little pins on them. They look a lot like Gen-X needlewheels though. :)

Peace,
John H.
 
Using the OR3500/OR3700 pump (3700 has needlewheel, 3500 does not). I'll find out later today, but I think the OR3500 will fit right up, just use the needlewheel from the octopus. The OR3700 has to be moded slightly to work because Aqua Medic adds an outlet fitting to be compatible with the Turboflotor 5000.

We have yet to see if the OR3500 w/ octopus needlewheel will work as good as the OR3700, but I'm betting it will be close.
 
i am using the 3700 which is a t5000 shorty replacement,
and modification is reqiured a bit. scroll back to page 28.
 
I think most of the benefit seen would really be from the OR having a proper venturi as opposed to the stock one.

As far as the OR impeller I have seen both style come out of OR models. One of my friend has a Turboflotor T1000 mutli and his impellor is EXACTILY the same as the pacfic coast impeller.
On the other hand I've seen the ones rufio is talking about too. I Think the ones that are coming stock in the skimmers are the new style.

Anyway again I think any add benefit would come from the venturi not the NW per say. As the stock impeller can chop FAR more air than is being drawn thru the stock venturi.

Have either of you guys hooked the Or pumps to a air flow meter yet?
 
another source

another source

Nice pic, mr.pluto. thanks for posting that.

I'd also be interested in seeing any air flow numbers if people have that available for the different variations on the OR pumps.

Also found another supplier for these skimmers, Ameka Aquatics:
http://amekaaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=AMEKA&Category_Code=PAC

Looks like they have the recirc models (1000, 2000 and 3000) in stock. I've bought from them before, and would do so again- good overall service
 
covey, I think mr. pluto is using the PCI venturi with the OR, according to the infor on page 28. Much easier, since the Octopus and OR have the same volute.

I have a Sedra volute and venturi, but it's going to take a few mods to hook them up to the skimmer.
 
i don't want to do any creative plumbing yet unless i have another for backup. so it is stock venturi. it is a little stronger than
the stock pump. my meter had 10 lpm in a 5 gal bucket. but dropped to 7 lpm when hooked up and flowing. a very noticable increase in skimate incured but not spectacular enough to proclaim the switch a major break thru in science :) the original pump is good enough! i have a clean tank so i don't get buckets of black soup, so it's hard to say how much it is working, but my
sps are getting lighter so i know i have to add more organics.
this skimmer is ahead of my tank which is a good thing.
 
I just swapped my OR3500 (with the Octopus needlewheel) for the Octopus 3000 pump. Not really a big differene...maybe even a slight drop in the air draw. Could be that the Oct wheel isn't optimized for the OR. I'll probably try an OR needlewheel once Custom Aquatic gets them back in stock.

Mr. Pluto, I tend to agree. I'm not going to bother with the Sedra venturi at this point. If I want to increase the air any more, I'll just use and air pump. I know the pump can handle more without cavitating.
 
I just ordered the 2000 for my new 58 gal sps tank, I was thinking of feeding it fresh off the overflow. Good idea? Also, does anyone have any experience with the 2000? I am sure someone has, but I can't see reading through all 32 pages to find it. Thanks.
 
tripstank, if you can minimize surging from the overflow, than a direct hookup will give you better skimmer performance. However, if your plumbing setup allows for surging, the performance will suffer, since the skimmer water level will be constantly changing.

There are a lot of threads in the Deltec USA forum about how to hook a skimmer up to an overflow (this is the way Deltec recommends). Your other option is to put a "bucket" of some sort in your sump that the overflow water drains in to before going into the sump. Put a small skimmer feed pump in the bucket, and you have almost the same raw water with steadier flow and less plumbing work.
 
Well, either increasing the skimmer feed rate (~180 gph now), decreasing the sump level (more concentrated nasties), or switching to the OR pump seems to have helped. I've collected about 2 cups of medium-dry skimmate (olive green) since Sunday.
 
tripstank, not sure if this is the best way to plumb it direct from the overflow, but my buddy just got a 2000 (today) and hooked it up direct...used a T with a gate valve on the side that went to the skimmer and nothing on the part that went to the sump.

He just got it, so it's premature to say how well it preforms but it sounds very promising from what he said. I want to see some action before I decide on the 2000 or 3000...I'm leaning towards the 3000 though...

BLockamon, what kind of improvement? darker skimmate? more skimmate? both?
 
what about this

what about this

i had a MJ 1200 feeding rps-2000 and that was way to much flow.i could see the turbuence.im trying a rio 800 w/venturi on it for flow to thw skimmer.is this a bad idea?i read that these put out about 170 gph on CA website.if thats true then i should be at optimial flow for a 65g tank right?i just had it laying around and i wanted to use it.i figured anything would be better than the MJ.
 
I have probably 110gph or so going to my 2000 on a 60g tank. I'm not too sure if it's enough, or too much. My skimmer cup has this really odd chemical smell, which I'm not sure is from the manufacturing process or something sick it's pulling out. Speaking of "pulling out", How long was the break in period for you guys? I decide to cut the airflow back quite a bit as I was getting HUGE bubbles and alot of turbulence in the neck.
I'll try to post some pictures tommorow, but frankly I'm getting worried.
 
Hang in there Nebraska, mine took almost a week to get great foam. Remember that these skimmers have a huge area of acrylic and if like me you didn't give it a good rinse first, it will take a while to clean itself up. The odd smell is just the acrylic glue -- it will go away.

First up though it looks like you have too much flow into the skimmer 1.5x tank volume max but closer to 1x is better. The high flow is what is causing the turbulence.

Cut back the flow and run the water further down in the neck (just below the top of the grey collar) and leave the air wide open for the time being -- don't worry about the bubble size it will fix itself.

Tone :)
 
So here are the pics. This is about the bubble size I get when I have the air cranked way down with a crappy MJ airline controller.

38042DSCN0501.jpg


The bubbles SEEM small enough, but the bubble density in the chamber sucks.

If I don't restrict the air at all, I get this.

38042large_bubble.jpg


I wonder if something is wrong w/ my pump.

This sure does suck.

any suggestions?

:(
 
55kfog, I'm getting more skimmate now. The consistency is the same as before. I tend to run it medium-dry, but I suspect it would be easy to vary from wet to dry now that it's fully broken in. I'll also mention that the 3000 on the tank at my chruch seems to be doing fine with no mods at all (not even the gasket mod). I only take care of the tank every third week, so I don't see it that often, but the last time I was in there it was pulling out fairly nice skum.
 
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