Pete's 110 build

[copnkilt]

Hi psteeleb,
Just joined this site today, and this is my first post. I am amazed by your tank, and am new to saltwater. I have plenty of experience with freshwater (have a 55 gallon with fancy goldfish). Anyway, enough rambling, I have the same tank as you, and want to setup the same way (mixed reef). According to your post a few pages back, this is your list of equipment correct
Avast ozone reactor
Avast media reactor
Avast CS1 protein skimmer (with swabbie)
Mag 12 return pump
Tunze nano wave box
2 maxijet 900 with sure flow kit
Apex controller
GEO ca reactor
TLF kalc reactor
30 gallon sump
I am planning to go 100% led for my lighting, and most of my stuff will be DIY. DIY led's, DIY stand, same protein skimmer kit, etc.

Is there anything I am forgetting, that I will need? This will be a slow build, and have tentatively planned to do it in this order.1, build stand 2, build sump/refuge 3, order dry rock from bulkreefsupply (how much I don't know yet), start cycling system with live and dry rock in tank, 4. build lights.
Am I doing this right? Any suggestions? Do I absolutely need to buy all four of the reactors before i start cycling the tank?

 

[psteeleb]

Hi psteeleb,
Just joined this site today, and this is my first post. I am amazed by your tank, and am new to saltwater. I have plenty of experience with freshwater (have a 55 gallon with fancy goldfish). Anyway, enough rambling, I have the same tank as you, and want to setup the same way (mixed reef). According to your post a few pages back, this is your list of equipment correct
Avast ozone reactor
Avast media reactor
Avast CS1 protein skimmer (with swabbie)
Mag 12 return pump
Tunze nano wave box
2 maxijet 900 with sure flow kit
Apex controller
GEO ca reactor
TLF kalc reactor
30 gallon sump
I am planning to go 100% led for my lighting, and most of my stuff will be DIY. DIY led's, DIY stand, same protein skimmer kit, etc.

Is there anything I am forgetting, that I will need? This will be a slow build, and have tentatively planned to do it in this order.1, build stand 2, build sump/refuge 3, order dry rock from bulkreefsupply (how much I don't know yet), start cycling system with live and dry rock in tank, 4. build lights.
Am I doing this right? Any suggestions? Do I absolutely need to buy all four of the reactors before i start cycling the tank?

thanks for the endorsement and welcome to Reef Central

I do have 3 TLF 150 reactors other then that it looks like your list is pretty complete

I'd start with getting the sump configured the way you want and pipe up the main tank to the sump with plans for adding the future reactors. I'd only start with one or two of the TLF 150 reactors for GAC (carbon) and maybe GFO. You can start with some basic lights and build them up as your system matures and you start adding corals.

Starting with dry rock saves some money and will avoid introducing some potential undesired hitchikers but I'd suggest you seed it with some live rock, preferably from a sorce that you can trust. High quality live rock is more then the rock and bacteria cultures, it will also introduce a plethrea of filter feeders and help establish a ballanced eco system in you tank.

The main thing is take your time and don't rush it.

Again thanks and welcome to RC

 

[psteeleb]

video of the strawberry tabling acro
<iframe width="853" height="480" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/ThBR5M5muTg?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[dsalomone]

Beautiful tank and great vids.
I have a 150 peninsula that I would love to have look like yours.
Quick question.
Are you still running biopellets? I saw your corals recovering and was wondering if that was from your mod or if you just ditched them all together.

 

[psteeleb]

Beautiful tank and great vids.
I have a 150 peninsula that I would love to have look like yours.
Quick question.
Are you still running biopellets? I saw your corals recovering and was wondering if that was from your mod or if you just ditched them all together.

I am still running the bio-pellets but on a very slow flow, and believe me I am considering ditching them all together. I need to get my ozone up and running to see if it helps any.

Right now No3 is holding around 3-5ppm

 

[psteeleb]

Right before heading out for the weekend I noticed my Co2 bottle was low so I changed it out. I tested alk to make sure it was okay and it checked in at 7.24 dkh, I've been running it closer to NSW since starting bio pellets to prevent alk burn to the corals.

When I got back 3 days later I noticed my Turaki STNn'd on a couple branches and checked alk, ouch it was over 12 dkh. It looks like the bubble rate on my Co2 was enough to reduce the reactor pH and support the Ca and Alk demands but it never reached the actual set point of the solenoid. When I changed the Co2 bottle out and reset the bubble count it must have been just a little faster or enough to lower the pH a half point or so creating a richer effluent.

This chart shows the Ca reactor pH, the lower band indicates the reactor ON times. The first two and a half days being last Wed, Thu and Fri show the reactor pH around 6.7, it also shows for Wed, Thu and Fri no solenoid activity other then just turning on/off at the prescribed times (red line).

Starting Friday when I replaced the Co2 bottle you can see the reactor pH dropped to 6.5 or the set point and the solenoid activity increased to maintain the set pH. Results are as expected, lower pH = more saturation of Alk and Ca in the effluent leaving the reactor thus increasing the tank ALK, ugggg..., there's always something to stay on top of in this hobby.

 

[sahin]

Hey man, hope your corals pull through ok. Thats the thing with this hobby, its like a child...always need looking after and seeing to.

Keep us updated with recovery.

 

[drummereef]

Oh man, sorry to hear that Pete. I'm sure you are more than on top of it and hopefully the corals will pull through.

 

[sahin]

A couple of week ago I was away for 4 days. I tested all the water parameters and equipment 5 days ahead just so I wont be messing with dosages and or adjusting other equipment etc. I know this wont help you now, but I always get scared that I will mess with a piece of equipment by cleaning or adjusting the day before etc and cause something to go wrong or not having switch on my auto top off etc etc...

So my useful tip is get everything sorted at least 5 days in advance so during that 5 days you are at home and ensure everything is working as it should and is stable etc.

 

[IridescentLily]

Peter your reefkeeping skills iare so amazing because you had your previous tank for a long time, it was so beautiful and grown in and we all were in awe at your reefkeeping expertise at that time.
And then, devastatingly, you lost that tank.
Then you almost gave up.
Then you came back.
Now, your current tank is another example of your reefkeeping expertise.
Your case in particular shows that unfortunate things can even happen to the experts.
And if there are any newcomers to reefkeeping who run into something that makes them want to give up, your story will help them.
:fish1:

 

[psteeleb]

Hey man, hope your corals pull through ok. Thats the thing with this hobby, its like a child...always need looking after and seeing to.

Keep us updated with recovery.

thanks and will do, so far it just looks like the Turaki suffered some and not in total. the Turaki looked like it was weakened from the bio pellets so a sudden alk swing didnt help.

Oh man, sorry to hear that Pete. I'm sure you are more than on top of it and hopefully the corals will pull through.

thanks Brett - it's one of those things yuo feel you want to fix right away but i'll bring it down slow and redial the Ca reactor in as I test the waters

A couple of week ago I was away for 4 days. I tested all the water parameters and equipment 5 days ahead just so I wont be messing with dosages and or adjusting other equipment etc. I know this wont help you now, but I always get scared that I will mess with a piece of equipment by cleaning or adjusting the day before etc and cause something to go wrong or not having switch on my auto top off etc etc...

So my useful tip is get everything sorted at least 5 days in advance so during that 5 days you are at home and ensure everything is working as it should and is stable etc.

Very Sage advice that I try to live by, sometimes my wife will even ask, for example; "Why didn't you go ahead and finish hooking that up", I'll respond because I knew I was going to be out of town for a week and didn't want to start using it unless I was here to monitor it for potential leaks adjustments etc.

In this case I almost didn't change the Co2 tank but was convinced it was going to run out over the wekend.

Peter your reefkeeping skills iare so amazing because you had your previous tank for a long time, it was so beautiful and grown in and we all were in awe at your reefkeeping expertise at that time.
And then, devastatingly, you lost that tank.
Then you almost gave up.
Then you came back.
Now, your current tank is another example of your reefkeeping expertise.
Your case in particular shows that unfortunate things can even happen to the experts.
And if there are any newcomers to reefkeeping who run into something that makes them want to give up, your story will help them.
:fish1:

Thanks April - I think saltwater runs in my veins , or maybe I'm just stubborn but I love the hobby for all it's rewards

 

[feh]

Congrats on Tank of the Month.

 

[sahin]

Hey congrats on earning TOTM. Earning the ReefCentral TOTM in the reefkeeping world is like winning an Oscar Well done! :thumbsup:

 

[drummereef]

Woohoo! Congrats on April 2012 TOTM!!! :bounce2::clown::bounce1::spin3::celeb2::beer::celeb3::thumbsup::dance: You deserve it Pete.

 

[psteeleb]

Congrats on Tank of the Month.

Hey congrats on earning TOTM. Earning the ReefCentral TOTM in the reefkeeping world is like winning an Oscar Well done! :thumbsup:

Woohoo! Congrats on April 2012 TOTM!!! You deserve it Pete.

Thanks guys - I very much appreciate your endorsements and positive words of encouragement, without them I probably wouldn't post as often and therefore wouldn't have been considered for the honor of RC TOTM

The Turaki damage seems to be contained but there are a couple areas that look suspect. The skin looks thin in some areas, I'll see if I can get some pictures of them later tonight

Last night I went to our local clubs (DFWMAS) meeting fro the first time in about 2 years. They brought in a photographer that use to take pictures for Divers Den. I have to admit it's nice to belong to a club that can afford to bring in the speakers it does.

In the meantime here's some more eye candy from last night, they were taken later in the evening so probably are under the Cree Royal Blue LED's only

 

[feh]

Whats that 2nd pic? looks like a tube nem

 

[iwishtofish]

Congratulations, Pete!!

 

[mess7777]

Question about the nano wavebox. If you were doing it over, would you still go with the tunze wavebox, or would you go for an Mp40, or programmable tunze pumps etc?

 

[psteeleb]

Whats that 2nd pic? looks like a tube nem

thanks feh

Congratulations, Pete!!

thanks

Question about the nano wavebox. If you were doing it over, would you still go with the tunze wavebox, or would you go for an Mp40, or programmable tunze pumps etc?

good question, I considered both and for my situation and given a do over I would still use the nano wavebox.

The approach to water movement is different for each system, and my desires required more then just sucking and blowing water. I look at power heads versus wave box technology as something as different as DC versus AC power.

DC power, like power heads depends on moving all of the current from point "a" to point "b" this takes energy and results diminish the further away you are

AC power, like a wave box doesn’t move the current from point "a" to point "b", it moves the current back and forth for very short distances but due to the pressures and voids created by this back and forth movement it cascades across the whole tank including in and around rock work. Rock work can be a huge detriment to conventional water movement.
Furthermore the wave box approach utilizes a rebound effect (off the back wall so to speak) to magnify the results versus the power initiated. Typically rebounding waves crash into each other, this is good as it does create turbidity or chaotic water motion. But when the created wave and rebound waves are tuned to correspond or work together the results are significant and create the sloshing effect seen with tuned in wave boxes.

I actually run both the wave box and power heads (though not the expensive brands) the combined effects of the pump return, power heads and wave box do crash and cause the turbidity desired out side of the rock work but the wave box also creates the undulating currents that move water throughout the entire tank.

The more expensive DC controlled power heads some what mimic the back and forth motion and can be tuned to respond to the rebound wave but with out a box to create the void behind the wave you wont get as much over all motion for the energy used.

 

[psteeleb]

Whats that 2nd pic? looks like a tube nem

sorry feh, I must have of got distracted, yes that is a tube anemone