pico reef pest algae problem challenge

today..... about 2 weeks later I'm starting get some small brown algae blooms. mushrooms aren't looking great. Flowerpot is looking much better. SPS are done. :sad2: LPS are iffy. My annenome is hanging on by a thread but not getting worse. But as you can see, there is not a Neo in sight! I'm going to wait about a month or 6 to make sure it won't be back then I'll start rebuilding.

Lesson learned: patience! I don't know if there was any other way to get rid of these things but I didn't have the patience to find out. Unless you do not want anything in your tank or do not have anything to lose, DO NOT DO THIS "all in" treatment!!!!!. Read all the previous posts in this thread and determine what will work best for you.

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We will term this the say hello to my little friend treatment, biggest 35% nuke run I've ever seen wow is
understatement

There is still some really helpful testing to be done here-help us assess filter bed state

If there is any feed or bioload being placed back in the tank can you post tests for ammonia and trite

Even some of the benthic life lost will provide ammonia data

And we are getting to see/read about peroxide tolerant species being pushed to the max, now we will know true tolerance

35% melted the faux marble veneer on my counters, its strength compared to 3% is unimaginable

Despite the power of this run, the Metallica Slayer of in tank treatments, I still guess you have nitrifiers alive they are tough man...please post us ammonia data I'm happy to see it thank you!!
 
Any chemist, reefer or industrial, will certainly assume all bacterial life wiped but I don't think its like that

The highly mega-oxic state of the immediate water column might not have had time to permeate all the porosities in the rock before degradation of the peroxide began, then those leftover nitrifiers populate again from the dieoff of benthic life etc

Chemists would have guessed 3% in this volume would have sterilized the tank completely. The fact some of your corals will survive 35% 'geddon will force a change of consideration.

In its extreme this was valuable for simply watching someone take the time to document the limits of biology in our tanks
 
Again I'm shaking your hand and buying you a digital beer nacl that was gutsy.

CHEERS! Hopefully we are still celebrating in a month. I haven't been feeding the tank as there isn't anything left to feed but I will do an ammonia test here shortly. and report back. I took some really good pics but for some reason they aren't showing up and I am unable to edit the posts to try and fix them. there is light at the end of the tunnel, I forgot to post earlier that I did find a few living amphipods in my overflow sock and my fuge is teaming with what appear to be spaghetti worms (I'm not sure if thats a good thing)
 
On a far milder note, here is day 2 after a 3% treatment on the birdsnest. For those just joining us, I pulled the coral colony out of the tank and did some liberal direct squirting of peroxide onto the algae.

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Its hard to see in this photo, but the GHA is starting to turn white, and polyp extension on the coral is very good.
 
It pains me to say but only a day or two after my pics of gorgeous clean rocks free of any unwanted algea, this morning I have noticed a dozen or more new sprouts of neo. They are too small to manually remove at this time but this may be the final straw. With my tail between my legs I have lost a lot of interest in the hobby. I can't find the enjoyment through the constant frustrations and I can't afford to start over and hope to not have this issue again. It may just be time for me to hang it up :(
 
That stinks man, when I read people buying frags from lfs with this pretty little macro on it I cringe.

What about pulling the rock base, chipping off corals and keeping them in the tank, cooking rocks over and over in different container then starting again, or just getting new rock-bleaching this stuff and trade it back as base rock after its dried out? Easier said than done I know just brainstorming
 
That stinks man, when I read people buying frags from lfs with this pretty little macro on it I cringe.

What about pulling the rock base, chipping off corals and keeping them in the tank, cooking rocks over and over in different container then starting again, or just getting new rock-bleaching this stuff and trade it back as base rock after its dried out? Easier said than done I know just brainstorming

And I appreciate the brainstorm. its kind of the direction I'm headed already. I have a friend out from TX who has followed my troubles for a while. He has a different set up than I do and offered to keep anything that's left and take it home with him today when he heads home. (willing to risk his own outbreak against my stong suggestions) I've shared frags with him before and nothing has ever taken off in his tank. My thought was to break everything down and bleach it. set up a trashcan in my garage with heavy ratio of bleach and a powerhead to soak the rocks and sand in for a month or so. Then I'll dry it all out for another month once our temps start hitting 110+ again. I'll pick up a couple small pieces of LR and some Livesand to reseed everything and run it after all that for 3 or 6 mo to make sure there aren't any issues That should give me some time to get some cash together for a couple corals and some critters to start over. I have enough friends that I've coral banked with over the years that are willing to share the wealth. now if I could just muster up the drive to do it all again hahahaha
 
Here is day 3, significant improvements. I suspect that my snails were at the algae during the night. My observation is in line with others, such that algae, once "cooked" with H2O2, seems to be more appetizing to snails...

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And remember, it used to look like this:

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I just did a water change on my tank and i used it on my glass and power heads.. I am seeing good things from using this stuff. i will keep u up to date on how my corals and fish do..
 
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Here's a few pics of some hydrogen peroxide treatment. The rocks turned fluorescent pink for about a day and a half after dosing then turned completely white. One of the rocks got a "bath" and the other a "shower". Green algae turned white and disappeared but I can start to see it is coming back. Bubble algae is completely gone. Dinos are back. No effect on pest anemones.
 
Sunday I drained my tank down as far as I could and ripped out as much of the algae as I could. Pulled out the smaller rocks and some frag plugs and treated them externally. I then treated all the exposed patches in the tank and a few that were still submerged. So far so good some of the algae is starting to lighten and all tank inhabitants look healthy. I took pictures along the way and will take some every day. In a few days I will post all the pictures in one spot with the results.
 
They have pros and cons. If any system worked for all tanks, everyone would just set up that system and have no troubles.

Some of our tanks here are ex ATS.

One of the cons of an algae scrubber is the messy algae from the screen getting cast around the tank...ie the ATS made things worse.

One of the problems with a refugium (variation on ATS, same plant binding action) is it didn't work to control non nutrient based invaders like red turf algae/bryopsis

Additionally, you've never seen a long term pico reef with an ATS in the classic sense because smaller tanks will become wrecked with the green slime and mat algae that proliferates on the screen due to small physical volume.

The peroxide system is closer to using clean up crews...an after the fact approach mentioned in the first pages. This is an option for simply killing algae, never having it in the tank option.

In my systems that are incredibly small I don't want plumbing and HOB clutter an ATS would require, so that's why I'll never use one.

Having seen most aspects of pico reef design, I've never seen a better method for algae control than a drain and treat. One day there will be a better method that makes a gallon reef last longer than 7 years...when that technique comes, peroxide will be a technique of the past!

Yellow, doc-laden water is another tenet of the Adey ATS system in some tanks, charcoal counter filtration has its own issues for some keepers (hlle is one)

ATS have many success stories, they are valid options to try at any time.

All the large tank work we do is a branching off that, the initial focus was pico reef longevity.

I do believe ATS systems have success in larger tanks, any one here with red brush algae or bryopsis is welcome to set one up and post before and after pics while we compare cure and sustain timelines!
 
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The longest running 3 gal pico reef using a refugium we have a thread on to review was el fabs pico reef the nano reef.com pico forum

We have no examples of a years-old one using the natural gha and slime mats found on a conventional ATS screen/wash plate to analyze. Ive seen a few attempts on new ones however.

Old pico reefs feature an interesting bottleneck where all the things new pico reefs have tried simply didn't work...after 5 years running without major revision, all bells and whistles have been shown unhelpful typically
 
^interesting.

At the end of May I added an "ATS" to my system. I used a 4x2 inch screen and it is cleaned every Sunday. It sits at the overflow of my aquaclear and is lit by my par38 from light spillage. It isn't the normal K that ATS use but it grows algae each week and is starting to grow the green hair algae that people want.

I decided to give it a try and believe in using all available space.

Last week I hit another patch of gha with H2O2 and 99% is gone but I will hit it again sometime this week.

The tank will turn 2 (water added) around August 20.
 
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