Lonelyreef
New member
What was the amount of peroxide that you were dosing during this period
pico reef pest algae problem challenge
- Thread starter brandon429
- Start date
Hi Brandon
Yesterday I took out the rocks that I was able to remove I poured peroxide on them then rinsed and put back. I also dipped my power head in the peroxide. The rocks that I treated look great. I tried the saran wrap method on part of my gravel but it kept floating up, I injected 9ml into the gravel then did a 20 gal water change. The peroxide didn't seem to affect my shrimp, however is there a better method in getting my gravel free of algae other then draining my entire tank?
Yesterday I took out the rocks that I was able to remove I poured peroxide on them then rinsed and put back. I also dipped my power head in the peroxide. The rocks that I treated look great. I tried the saran wrap method on part of my gravel but it kept floating up, I injected 9ml into the gravel then did a 20 gal water change. The peroxide didn't seem to affect my shrimp, however is there a better method in getting my gravel free of algae other then draining my entire tank?
Lonelyreef
New member
Where there any sps in your tank because my tank has quite a few id be scared to do a 5 day lights out
I tried Brandons method a little over a year ago per his recommendations on NR.
Let me just say, I'm a huge advocate. Out of tank topical applicatons work best. I found successusing a syringe of peroxide straight out of the bottle. Dip rock/frag in saltwater filled bucket, rinse with saltwater thoroughly (I save my last water change water for this) MYSELF? Works first time every time the algae bleaches and eventually releases into the water column. Realize this may not be typical
Kills pods, worms, snails, shrimp, etc. I've used safely on most all corals. Certain acros showed sensitivity.
I've successfully killed byropsis, gha, chaeto, bubble, and razor caulerpa.
Would wager to say it would also kill cyano and other algaes including macros such as cauerpa and dictoyta with controlled application at rhizoid bases which usually are insanely difficult to eradicate from a display.
My caulerpa experience was year of manual removal, lowered feedings, increased nute export, reduced photocycles, and various herbivores I thought may help (which were limited in ten-twenty gallons)
H2O2 remedied all of my headaches
Let me just say, I'm a huge advocate. Out of tank topical applicatons work best. I found successusing a syringe of peroxide straight out of the bottle. Dip rock/frag in saltwater filled bucket, rinse with saltwater thoroughly (I save my last water change water for this) MYSELF? Works first time every time the algae bleaches and eventually releases into the water column. Realize this may not be typical
Kills pods, worms, snails, shrimp, etc. I've used safely on most all corals. Certain acros showed sensitivity.
I've successfully killed byropsis, gha, chaeto, bubble, and razor caulerpa.
Would wager to say it would also kill cyano and other algaes including macros such as cauerpa and dictoyta with controlled application at rhizoid bases which usually are insanely difficult to eradicate from a display.
My caulerpa experience was year of manual removal, lowered feedings, increased nute export, reduced photocycles, and various herbivores I thought may help (which were limited in ten-twenty gallons)
H2O2 remedied all of my headaches
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Lowefx
New member
Tell me how you successfully killed Byropisi. After i used h202 almost a month ago, i have it making a comeback on my rocks. How many times did you tread each rock? Whats your secret?
brandon429
Active member
- the weakness of 3% compared to 35%, there is a reason I dont play w the easy stuff any longer. Im three years now on straight 35% fuel for my pico
kill ratios climb with percentage and so does the possibility of loss of eye lol
but thats one factor. bryopsis and dinos have a so so outcome when using 3% there are both complete kills shown in linked pics and complete growbacks. most in tank work is 3%, and out of tank work at 35% done ever so carefully is such a reward for the time invested. thats my take anyway...35% kill ratios will spoil you rotten and certainly expose any sensitives not considered lol./
the tolerance for 35% that my reef has developed is just amazing. it can take quite a bit, Im using a few mls now in a one gallon tank, in tank, but the actual contact time is so brief since I refill and change for a total export. my tank is always given the highest dose of peroxide Ive seen so that any losses or bad developments can be relayed to those using far less risky approaches.
kill ratios climb with percentage and so does the possibility of loss of eye lol
but thats one factor. bryopsis and dinos have a so so outcome when using 3% there are both complete kills shown in linked pics and complete growbacks. most in tank work is 3%, and out of tank work at 35% done ever so carefully is such a reward for the time invested. thats my take anyway...35% kill ratios will spoil you rotten and certainly expose any sensitives not considered lol./
the tolerance for 35% that my reef has developed is just amazing. it can take quite a bit, Im using a few mls now in a one gallon tank, in tank, but the actual contact time is so brief since I refill and change for a total export. my tank is always given the highest dose of peroxide Ive seen so that any losses or bad developments can be relayed to those using far less risky approaches.
brandon429
Active member
its also something to consider about the one off cure using any method
that happens less frequently vs raw work of repeats. bryopsis, if thats the case, has holdfasts that penetrate deeper into lr than most invaders, there are threads about it on here with macro pics i dont recall which forum but Bertoni in the chem forum was just discussing the threads the other day. if some 3% buzzed the top of the plant, and the essential root remained, imagine that comparison to dandelions in a front yard.
its helpful to see peroxide work in a different light...sometimes repeated events are required to handle an invader allowed to spread off one rock. to speed that up, higher dilutions can be applied, or, just use initial peroxide to mow the lawn and use one of the other guaranteed bryopsis methods to arrest the regrowth
the longest reef fight Id ever been part of was eradicating red gelidium algae from my bowl. 3% got to where it wouldnt harm it, so I knew the next step. and even the 35% was a solid year of repeats, it just killed the primary mass much faster than 3% and now if allowed to go un maintained, poor water quality, no red algae ever shows up its truly biomass eradicated and it took 12 mos of repeats. I knew one day it would fold, before I did.
this is much easier to accomplish in pico reefs where the keeper has instant and total control over the water column as compared to larger tanks. all I can say is, remove and external treat so you can get really mean. use elbow work to make up for careful in tank dosing when dealing with the most aggressive of invaders.
that happens less frequently vs raw work of repeats. bryopsis, if thats the case, has holdfasts that penetrate deeper into lr than most invaders, there are threads about it on here with macro pics i dont recall which forum but Bertoni in the chem forum was just discussing the threads the other day. if some 3% buzzed the top of the plant, and the essential root remained, imagine that comparison to dandelions in a front yard.
its helpful to see peroxide work in a different light...sometimes repeated events are required to handle an invader allowed to spread off one rock. to speed that up, higher dilutions can be applied, or, just use initial peroxide to mow the lawn and use one of the other guaranteed bryopsis methods to arrest the regrowth
the longest reef fight Id ever been part of was eradicating red gelidium algae from my bowl. 3% got to where it wouldnt harm it, so I knew the next step. and even the 35% was a solid year of repeats, it just killed the primary mass much faster than 3% and now if allowed to go un maintained, poor water quality, no red algae ever shows up its truly biomass eradicated and it took 12 mos of repeats. I knew one day it would fold, before I did.
this is much easier to accomplish in pico reefs where the keeper has instant and total control over the water column as compared to larger tanks. all I can say is, remove and external treat so you can get really mean. use elbow work to make up for careful in tank dosing when dealing with the most aggressive of invaders.
brandon429
Active member
http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/339351-hair-algae-experiment-successful/
our friend from nano reef.com experiments with a way to localize peroxide underwater
instead of just working with straight peroxide, he mixes it into a slurry that holds form a little better before being dissipated around the tank. his before and after pics are detailed. nice nice peroxide contribution sir
our friend from nano reef.com experiments with a way to localize peroxide underwater
instead of just working with straight peroxide, he mixes it into a slurry that holds form a little better before being dissipated around the tank. his before and after pics are detailed. nice nice peroxide contribution sir
Lonelyreef
New member
I used 3% peroxide dosing in my tank but a much higher volume combined with a lights out and killed dinos in three days. I used 15 ml three times every 24 hrs in about 110 gallons of water. Only very few sps took it tuff meaning they browned out a little. However my water was crystal clear my fish had better color and my corals had great polyp extension.
brandon429
Active member
amazing pics before and after thank you ponda! And all with a lysmata shrimp in tow that's great looking
ELGallerani
New member
Hello Brandon429
I would like to congratulate you for this very good topic.
Now I ask you, I can dispense 1ml to 10gal within the reef (directly). Every day?
My rocks are huge and I can not withdraw. And if I lower the water, I can not have local access.
I'll post pictures below:
Sorry for the poor image quality. It was a cell phone.
I have the reef 3 years ago mounted.
Parameters ok.
I would like to congratulate you for this very good topic.
Now I ask you, I can dispense 1ml to 10gal within the reef (directly). Every day?
My rocks are huge and I can not withdraw. And if I lower the water, I can not have local access.
I'll post pictures below:
Sorry for the poor image quality. It was a cell phone.
I have the reef 3 years ago mounted.
Parameters ok.
brandon429
Active member
Hello El Gallerani!
thank you for posting, that condition is something we can work with. primarily standard green hair algae. since Im at work I have to type fast and be brief so brainstorm with me before we start:
-read the last 10 pages only so you can read about how underwater spot treatments work, thats how we get around having to remove your rock
-be sure and upload a full tank shot standing back so I can see other details not mentioned (cleaner shrimp, anemones etc)
-the prior few pages hold information about how to do a single test rock first, before we proceed. its a test rock done underwater explained in good detail on prior pages.
-all tanks have some rocks that can be removed, for testing externally. pull one of those, treat outside the tank as listed, rinse off and put back in and lets see how fast these test rocks die off before we undergo a whole tank treatment
based on the underwater spot tests, we can proceed with your tank running full after test reports are updated...we simply want to see how the target responds to both external and internal treatments before we take hours and hours to do your whole tank in one pass
nice to meet you
B
thank you for posting, that condition is something we can work with. primarily standard green hair algae. since Im at work I have to type fast and be brief so brainstorm with me before we start:
-read the last 10 pages only so you can read about how underwater spot treatments work, thats how we get around having to remove your rock
-be sure and upload a full tank shot standing back so I can see other details not mentioned (cleaner shrimp, anemones etc)
-the prior few pages hold information about how to do a single test rock first, before we proceed. its a test rock done underwater explained in good detail on prior pages.
-all tanks have some rocks that can be removed, for testing externally. pull one of those, treat outside the tank as listed, rinse off and put back in and lets see how fast these test rocks die off before we undergo a whole tank treatment
based on the underwater spot tests, we can proceed with your tank running full after test reports are updated...we simply want to see how the target responds to both external and internal treatments before we take hours and hours to do your whole tank in one pass
nice to meet you
B
ELGallerani
New member
Ok Brandon429
How to use synthetic rocks will lower the water until the top of the rock with algae. Play h2o2 on it and hope three minutes and then return it to the water on site.
I'll shoot over to you to have an idea of how my reef.
We talk more tomorrow.
See you.
How to use synthetic rocks will lower the water until the top of the rock with algae. Play h2o2 on it and hope three minutes and then return it to the water on site.
I'll shoot over to you to have an idea of how my reef.
We talk more tomorrow.
See you.
brandon429
Active member
I am interested in seeing full tank shots of the 5g with cyano, its possible to beat even if not this method. depending on the details the pics show we can run this method hard and it too could knock it out. what we pride ourselves on in this thread is not causing unintended harm, or unpredicted harm, to non targets and then if the peroxide happens to cure something thats always good for the follow up pics.
Regarding the pre treatment of rock I would have to vote no. its my opinion that even perfectly algae free rock can become colonized at any time, in any reef, by one of the most adapted reef organisms so a clean start means nothing other than good tank habits. always keep the rock clean, allow no algae, even if not using peroxide.
the intention for the single focus of the entire thread is the tenet that if you disallow algae to grow, physically, it will overtake nothing even if your phosphate levels are not low. If you can balance your coral health with low nutrients, you'll be manually removing less, but actually having any invader in a reef tank is purely the result of allowing it, and not nutrients. This is opposite to current knowledge, there is room for rule breaking in reefkeeping
I must recommend reading at least the last 10 pages for in tank dosing ideas, there are lots of details that can save your tank and id miss some if I tried to summarize all in one take here. am interested in seeing any tank pics you may have brob22
Regarding the pre treatment of rock I would have to vote no. its my opinion that even perfectly algae free rock can become colonized at any time, in any reef, by one of the most adapted reef organisms so a clean start means nothing other than good tank habits. always keep the rock clean, allow no algae, even if not using peroxide.
the intention for the single focus of the entire thread is the tenet that if you disallow algae to grow, physically, it will overtake nothing even if your phosphate levels are not low. If you can balance your coral health with low nutrients, you'll be manually removing less, but actually having any invader in a reef tank is purely the result of allowing it, and not nutrients. This is opposite to current knowledge, there is room for rule breaking in reefkeeping
I must recommend reading at least the last 10 pages for in tank dosing ideas, there are lots of details that can save your tank and id miss some if I tried to summarize all in one take here. am interested in seeing any tank pics you may have brob22
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thanks alot for your reply brandon, ill definately read the first 10 pages of the thread.
my tank isnt that bad as far as algae, but i just can't seem to cure all of it.
id love to post pics but i dont have a camera and not sure how to post pics online.
thanks again for the help
my tank isnt that bad as far as algae, but i just can't seem to cure all of it.
id love to post pics but i dont have a camera and not sure how to post pics online.
thanks again for the help
ELGallerani
New member
First day:
Second day:
Third day. Satisfactory end result.
Second day:
Third day. Satisfactory end result.
