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Being new to the hobby I am curious what kinds of interesting behavior you're talking about?

I am open to other options if there are behaviors that are more captivating to watch than others.

Well mating behaviors, social interaction, commensalism, and so on. As a long time diver, eels for me are boring (sorry) as they simply sit there breathing, not to mention they use a lot of bioload. Obviously tank size limits the options, but even relatively small tanks can have a goby pistol shrimp combination. Dwarf angels are colorful, and interesting with great movement as an example.
 
Well mating behaviors, social interaction, commensalism, and so on. As a long time diver, eels for me are boring (sorry) (No need to apologize; that actually makes perfect sense.) as they simply sit there breathing, not to mention they use a lot of bioload. Obviously tank size limits the options, but even relatively small tanks can have a goby pistol shrimp combination. Dwarf angels are colorful, and interesting with great movement as an example.

Well I am convinced; the eel is off the list. The Goby/Pistol Shrimp relationship sounds like a very interesting thing to observe and will likely take it's place. I know you don't make suggestions due to taste or budgetary differences; so I'll ask what are some other interesting behaviors and interactions to research?
 
A symbiotic relationship can take on many forms, which are classified depending on how the creatures share their living space or use each other. Understanding what sorts of relationships may exist in the natural world between species will help you to better understand the type of aquarium inhabitants you might acquire. The specialized defenses of certain species are often used by those that have little or none of their own, and is called inquilinism. A defenseless little reef fish would want to take advantage of the natural protection provided by a sea-urchin neighbor’s razor-sharp, and sometimes venomous, spines. In our aquaria an example would be Bangaii cardinalfish and long spine sea urchin. Clownfish, having covered themselves in mucus that makes them invisible to their host anemone are able to dance among the battery of the anemone’s stinging cells without harm. Some animals like the Carrier Crab, are highly creative in locating their defenses.

Some creatures use others as camouflage. Decorator crabs snip pieces off of sponges and other nearby organisms and embed them into their shells, sometimes even carving the sponge into a cap that neatly fits on their carapace. Other crabs plant sea anemones onto their shells devising a built-in self-maintaining shield of stinging cells – or hold one in each claw, and like a boxer, attempt to punch the offender with its borrowed battery. Scientists believe inquilinistic relationships merely evolved from creatures living in close proximity with one another.

Endoecism refers to animals that live in the shelters created by their host, most typically burrows. Proximity is also a likely reason for such a relationship to grow over the millennia, combined with a frequent hunt for shelter by what eventually becomes the symbiont. The arrow goby of North America is commonly found in the burrows of various invertebrates, favoring crab holes. The symbiont usually benefits the most in this relationship; however having a little visitor has its advantages. Should the goby find a chunk of food too large for it to handle, it will give it to the crab. The crab chops it up as it devours its free snack, allowing the goby to take a few shredded pieces back. Sometimes the live-in symbionts feed on the hosts’ waste products, earning their space as housekeepers. In the goby and blind shrimp relationship, the goby is unable to dig a burrow and the blind shrimp is unable to see potential predators.

The two most obvious symbiotic relationships involve food associations (commensalism) and associations in which both host and symbiont benefit (mutualism). These two are very close, but in commensalism, the issue is only food and it’s usually only the symbiont that benefits directly. Many shrimp, crabs and copepods, for example, live on the surface of corals and other cnidarians, eating their mucus coating, dead skin or any adhering organic particles. The crustaceans usually cause no harm to their coral hosts – and may even pluck off an occasional parasite.

Mutualism is the most well-known type of symbiosis, and is marked by an interdependence of host and symbiont. In most mutualistic relationships, one could not survive without the other, which makes these sorts of relationships among the most fascinating. Hermatypic (reef-building) corals and their algal symbionts, zooxanthellae, are a common example of such crucial interdependence. The zooxanthellae live inside the coral’s tissue, taking advantage of its waste products and transforming them into substances the coral can use to grow and maintain its calcium carbonate home. During times of high stress, such as prolonged high temperatures, the coral will eject zooxanthellae into the water column. Although the coral can live with a small amount of algal symbionts over short periods of time, a long absence of their usual population of symbionts spells certain death.

Cleaning symbiosis is similar, but the symbionts don’t live within their hosts’ tissues. A large fish will literally pull into a “cleaning station,” which is nothing more than an area where cleaner shrimp and fish live. Like Indy 500 pit mechanics, the cleaners scramble from their crevasses and overhangs, picking off parasites such as isopods (not ich however), algae, and detritus for the fish, while scoring an easy meal. Often times the fish signals it willingness to be cleaned by its sidewise positioning.

Many reef species are relegated to settling on a surface before adulthood, where they remain and live out their life. But these “sessile” organisms can sometimes become mobile should they settle down on the right spot. When one animal uses another for transportation, the symbiotic relationship is called phoresis. Barnacles, for example, may settle on a crab carapace, snail shell, or on the back of a whale. I call this the “hitchhiker relationship”.

Coleman shrimp are normally found in pairs on the toxic sea urchin (occasionally available from Drs. Foster and Smith and others), Asthenosoma varium, also called a fire urchin, with the female being the larger of the two. Coleman shrimp move amongst the poisonous spines and pedicellaria without incurring harm but they usually clear an area of these obstructions where they perch.

The white and dark brown striped Urchin crab is another guest of the fire urchin often occurring on the same animal as the Coleman Shrimp. Whereas the Coleman Shrimp only lives on the fire urchin, Urchin crabs live in association with a variety of urchins. The last segment of its leg forms a hook to hold onto the spines of the sea urchin. It can be found singly or in pairs.

Often found on the sea cucumber Actinopyga, the swimmer crab is commensally associated, receiving transportation and protection. It is often found with the Emperor Shrimp discussed below. While the swimmer crab benefits from the relationship, the sea cucumber does not.

Emperor shrimp hitch rides on various partners; I have seen them on sea cucumbers of various species and nudibranchs of various species including Risbecia tryoni, Ceratosoma trilobatum, and Spanish Dancers. Their coloration varies according to the “transportation partner” they ride on, but I am uncertain if they are able to change coloration if they happen to change transportation. Not content merely to relax and enjoy the ride, they are constantly on the move, normally perched near the substrate looking for food to pass by; I guess this is the marine version of “meals on wheels”?



Hopefully this discussion of relationships, relationship types, and especially hitchhikers on the reef will give you an idea for interesting aquaria subjects.


 
75 Gallon reef tank. with a sump.

1 Paraglyphidodon oxyodon

2 percula clownfish

1 Pseudochromis diadema

1 Zebrasoma flavescens

1 Siganus unimaculatus

Just exploring other options, these are the fish I really want. Minus a hippo tang.
 
I am new to the forums and have been out of the hobby for a while. I had a 55 gal FOWLR about ten years ago and have decided to start a new tank for the family but mostly for my 2 y/o son to enjoy.

I recently purchased a 75 gal tank and am building a 20 gal sump/refugium. I plan to have LR and LS. Currently have 70 lbs of dead rock but plan to purchase much more live rock. We would like a reef tank with fish, inverts, and some of the "easier" to maintain corals. I still have a ways to go before the tank is ready but would like to hear some fish/invert/coral suggestions. I also am not sure the type and quantity of snails/hermits/clean up crew etc that I would need. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
75 Gallon reef tank. with a sump.

1 Paraglyphidodon oxyodon

2 percula clownfish

1 Pseudochromis diadema

1 Zebrasoma flavescens

1 Siganus unimaculatus

Just exploring other options, these are the fish I really want. Minus a hippo tang.

You have two grazers, one of which, Zebrasoma flavescens, which really needs a larger tank, will likely become aggressive towards Siganus unimaculatus and, of course that pseudochromis, while pretty, can be a terror.
 
I am new to the forums and have been out of the hobby for a while. I had a 55 gal FOWLR about ten years ago and have decided to start a new tank for the family but mostly for my 2 y/o son to enjoy.

I recently purchased a 75 gal tank and am building a 20 gal sump/refugium. I plan to have LR and LS. Currently have 70 lbs of dead rock but plan to purchase much more live rock. We would like a reef tank with fish, inverts, and some of the "easier" to maintain corals. I still have a ways to go before the tank is ready but would like to hear some fish/invert/coral suggestions. I also am not sure the type and quantity of snails/hermits/clean up crew etc that I would need. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Welcome to Reef Central. This thread is focused exclusively on marine fish compatibility: with each other and with the environment you are providing. While we do not make recommendations, we will be quite happy to provide commentary on a stocking list you provide. If you post your other questions as a separate topic in New to the Hobby you will get a lot of help!
 
Stocking list

Stocking list

My 29 gallon biocube has been up in my home for about a year and a half. Before that it belonged to two other people for a total of about three years.

It has stock ballast and new corallife bulbs; a 50/50 and an actinic. Stock pump, intank brand media baskets with suggested filter media, a tunze protein filter, live rock in the sump.

I have a wheelers goby and a firefish, a skunk cleaner shrimp and some snails and scarlet hermets.

I want to add a royal gramma that is in my quarantine tank but I've heard they can be aggressive. I want a peaceful tank. I just traded my sixline wrasse because he was picking on my wheelers goby.

My goals for the tank are to also add a barnacle blenny and a black clown goby and a yellow clown goby. I know that's a lot of gobies but they are all so different and inhabit different areas of the tank usually. I'm most worried about the clown gobies getting along and about the royal gramma picking on everyone.

Any thoughts?
 
OK I am at the end of my stocking of my 90G mixed reef, here is what I have so far:

4 B/G Chromis (almost a year in the tank w/o too much aggression)
1 Melanarus Wrasse
1 Yellow Eye Kole Tang (follows the wrasse around the tank everywhere)
2 Oc. Clowns (one normal one B&W)
1 Royal Gramma Basslet (in QT)
1 Purple Firefish (in QT)

What I want to finish off with is a group of Dispar Anthias. Would 4 of them be appropriate for a tank my size? Would one of them assume a male role? Would it be risky to proactively treat them with copper?
 
My 29 gallon biocube has been up in my home for about a year and a half. Before that it belonged to two other people for a total of about three years.

It has stock ballast and new corallife bulbs; a 50/50 and an actinic. Stock pump, intank brand media baskets with suggested filter media, a tunze protein filter, live rock in the sump.

I have a wheelers goby and a firefish, a skunk cleaner shrimp and some snails and scarlet hermets.

I want to add a royal gramma that is in my quarantine tank but I've heard they can be aggressive. I want a peaceful tank. I just traded my sixline wrasse because he was picking on my wheelers goby.

My goals for the tank are to also add a barnacle blenny and a black clown goby and a yellow clown goby. I know that's a lot of gobies but they are all so different and inhabit different areas of the tank usually. I'm most worried about the clown gobies getting along and about the royal gramma picking on everyone.

Any thoughts?

I would only do one clown goby because your tank is small. The gramma loretto should be fine.
 
OK I am at the end of my stocking of my 90G mixed reef, here is what I have so far:

4 B/G Chromis (almost a year in the tank w/o too much aggression) Yet
1 Melanarus Wrasse
1 Yellow Eye Kole Tang (follows the wrasse around the tank everywhere)
2 Oc. Clowns (one normal one B&W)
1 Royal Gramma Basslet (in QT)
1 Purple Firefish (in QT)

What I want to finish off with is a group of Dispar Anthias. Would 4 of them be appropriate for a tank my size? Would one of them assume a male role? Would it be risky to proactively treat them with copper?

I would not add a group of anthias to a 90 gallon tank with chromis. Tank transfer is a better prophylactic treatment and anthias should be treated with prazipro.
 
want to add a pair of clowns and a bi-colored blenny along with cuc. What should I go with first? And is this a good choice for a 55 gal.
 
want to add a pair of clowns and a bi-colored blenny along with cuc. What should I go with first? And is this a good choice for a 55 gal.

If you like clownfish interaction, they should do fine. Depending on the species of clownfish, they may effectively take over the tank once sexually mature and mating. If the clowns are juvenile, order makes no difference, otherwise the blenny should be added first. But keep in mind tank maturity.
 
I would not add a group of anthias to a 90 gallon tank with chromis. Tank transfer is a better prophylactic treatment and anthias should be treated with prazipro.

Is this a matter of aggression or just too many fish in a given space? Would a single Anthias be doable?
 
Is this a matter of aggression or just too many fish in a given space? Would a single Anthias be doable?

anthias and chromis occupy the same ecological niche and chromis (which are damsels) can be aggressive. Moreover, anthias in a group have a defined social interaction that really would be better in a 125 gallon or larger tank. Depending on which anthias, they may also require multiple feedings per day.
 
Thanks for the educated opinion snorvich, I will forego the Dispar pack. The other option I was thinking of was a Flame Hawkfish. Would this work well with my other stock?
 
Thanks for the educated opinion snorvich, I will forego the Dispar pack. The other option I was thinking of was a Flame Hawkfish. Would this work well with my other stock?

Flame (and long nosed) hawkfish are excellent fish but they preclude having shrimp.
 
Rookie

Rookie

Research Time. I will be getting a 65 gallon red max. Plan. Please tell me when to add plus any other advice. Thank You!!!

5 Astraea Conehead Snail
3 Electric Blue Hermit Crab
2 Electric Orange Hermit Crab
Fancy Vivid Ocellaris Clownfish (Pair)
2 firefish
1 Flame Hawkfish
1 green mandarin (Add in 6 months)
1 orangestripe goby
1 Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp (Should I get 2)
2 Scissortail Dartfish
1 Snapping Shrimp
1 yellow watchman
1 Coral Beauty
1 Bulb Anemone

1 Evergreen Starburst Polyp - Aquacultured
1 Glove Polp
1 Maxima Clam, Blue - Aquacultured (Add 1 year)
1 Ricorda Mushroom Blue Green
1 Turquoise Staghorn
1 Birdsnest Coral, Green
1 Blue Acropora Millepora (Add 1 year)
1 Bubble Coral, Pearl
 
75 Gallon reef tank. with a sump.

1 Meiacanthus grammistes

2 percula clownfish

1 Nemateleotris magnifica

1 Nemateleotris decora

1 Gobiodon citrinus

1 Gramma loreto

1 Siganus unimaculatus, if I can have this guy and one tang below, that would make my day.

or one of these three,

Acanthurus pyroferus ,
Ctenochaetus tominiensis, or
Ctenochaetus truncatus
 
6 line wrasse or ?

6 line wrasse or ?

Hi. Fairly new to the saltwater reef tank game so any advice appreciated. I have a 90 gal tank with 95 lbs. live rock, remora pro skimmer. 5 months old with no real serious issues yet. At present, I have a small yellow tang, tomini tang, 2 banggai , 2 clowns and a 4 "mag. Foxface. All get along fine. I am noticing all kinds of small critters on the rock including some bristleworms. Would you add a 6 line wrasse or maybe a bicolour dottyback to keep them under control? Thanks, Bill
 
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