PLEASE check out your intended fish purchases here first!

Status
Not open for further replies.
Getting closer:

Getting closer:

For generally 6' tank (either 24 or 27" width and height)

1. 2 small clowns (I'll look up how small is small enough that they aren't sexually mature)
2. Couple of min angles (flame and another that's a crap shoot with corals - I know).
3. Orange shoulder tang (OR chevron tang) but I assume both together are not compatible.
4. Tusk wrasse - I understand he'd be tough on the snails/shrimp. I'm thinking the tang(s) will keep the algae down. What are odds he'd wipe out the snails eventually?

As for the rest - man. I'm stumped. After this I'll have to figure out what corals I can plan for. The really neat fish are not reef safe it seems to me. I may change my mind and just go FOWLER so I can have butterfly fish as well and forget the corals.

I suppose I might be able to get away with a few more rounding errors for livestock without taxing the system - perhaps a gobie or damsel et. al. But I know once the tang and wrasse get full sized that's getting close to all I need to keep in there.
 
For generally 6' tank (either 24 or 27" width and height)

1. 2 small clowns (I'll look up how small is small enough that they aren't sexually mature)
2. Couple of min angles (flame and another that's a crap shoot with corals - I know). the odds are against, not just a roll of the dice
3. Orange shoulder tang (OR chevron tang) but I assume both together are not compatible.
4. Tusk wrasse - I understand he'd be tough on the snails/shrimp. I'm thinking the tang(s) will keep the algae down. What are odds he'd wipe out the snails eventually?

What are the odds you would consume a freshly made cheeseburger?

As for the rest - man. I'm stumped. After this I'll have to figure out what corals I can plan for. The really neat fish are not reef safe it seems to me. I may change my mind and just go FOWLER so I can have butterfly fish as well and forget the corals.

Pyramid butterfly (including zosters) and long nosed butterfly fish are as reef safe as it gets

I suppose I might be able to get away with a few more rounding errors for livestock without taxing the system - perhaps a gobie or damsel et. al. But I know once the tang and wrasse get full sized that's getting close to all I need to keep in there.

Avoid damsels due to aggression
 
75 reef for my pastor. 48.5 inches long
2 black and white clownfish
Blenny
Dragon goby

He can't decide between 3-4 anthias or wrasse.
Wrasse would be either
Longfin Fairy Wrasse or multicolor Lubbocks fairy wrasse
Anthias would be Bartletts anthias.

He would like both wrasse and the anthias, but I don't think there would be space. I know we would need a tight cover for the wrasse, but don't know a lot about anthias
 
75 reef for my pastor. 48.5 inches long
2 black and white clownfish
Blenny
Dragon goby

He can't decide between 3-4 anthias or wrasse.
Wrasse would be either
Longfin Fairy Wrasse or multicolor Lubbocks fairy wrasse
Anthias would be Bartletts anthias.

A grouping of anthias really needs a larger tank because of the social interaction of a group. Lubbocks is less aggressive and more desirable than a longfin.

He would like both wrasse and the anthias, but I don't think there would be space. I know we would need a tight cover for the wrasse, but don't know a lot about anthias
 
I pop on this thread time to time in order to further my education, thank you :)

I have a question regarding a post in which you advised to someone a few pages back to add the pair of 2 young ocellaris clowns first, then the firefish, & then whatever fish was last for a 30g. I thought firefish needed to go in first. In this particular case do the young clowns go in first so that the pair can establish who will be the dominant fish & eventually the female without any innocent bystanders?

Not trying to start an argument, only trying to further educate myself. I wish I could learn all of this by osmosis.
 
Blue ribbon eels: For anyone considering one:

1. They must have a long pipe to go in so they can completely hide. The pipe can just be laying on the bottom; 3/4 to 2" diameter is good.

2. Have several types of food available to offer, starting with live mollies or live feeder goldfish, then frozen silversides fed with tongs. Eventually, feeding a silverside once or twice a week is good. Pouring in a school of live feeder fish is a good way to get him to start eating.

3. All gaps and outlets must be covered or he will get out. The center of the top of the tank, however, can be open as long as there is a 2" rim around all of the sides.

4. He will eventually eat any small narrow long fish, so you probably can't have gobies, and certainly not firefish.

5. He won't eat corals, although when he swims around he might break off delicate sps branches.

6. Repeat: You must have a pipe for him to hide in. He won't eat without a pipe.

An easier to care for option (and smaller) is a white ghost ribbon eel.
 
I pop on this thread time to time in order to further my education, thank you :)

I have a question regarding a post in which you advised to someone a few pages back to add the pair of 2 young ocellaris clowns first, then the firefish, & then whatever fish was last for a 30g. I thought firefish needed to go in first. In this particular case do the young clowns go in first so that the pair can establish who will be the dominant fish & eventually the female without any innocent bystanders?

Not trying to start an argument, only trying to further educate myself. I wish I could learn all of this by osmosis.

Generally, I would advise putting in firefish early on (first). Two very small juvenile clownfish (A. ocellaris or A. percula) will not have any aggressive tendencies so deferring introduction of the firefish for a month or two would have no negative consequences. For a brand new tank, clownfish can deal with the pristine conditions slightly better than a firefish which is slightly more sensitive.
 
30 gallon nano
1 yellow prawn goby
2 purple fire fish
1-2 clown fish
and various snails and cleaner shrimp

Your stocking list is fine. BUT be aware that unless the firefish are a male and female (and there is no way to know in the short run), this will become one firefish. It could take months for this to happen, however.
 
so just for clarification young firefish are already male or female from birth unlike clownfish

No fish is male or female from "birth". As far as I know, all fish are "born" as juveniles. However when a fish is collected, it may already be sexually differentiated. I have had firefish be collaborative for months and then suddenly, one is intimidated by the other and then is intimidated and starves. Note that I am using "born" and "birth" very loosely.
 
Tank: 65g with 20g sump/refugium, skimmer. Mostly SPS.

Current livestock:
2 x a. ocellaris clownfish
Macropharyngodon negrosensis (juvenile)
Synchiropus picturatus

I'd like to add 2-3 more fish to this list. I'm wondering about the following:
Single Pseudanthias bimaculatus
flasher or fairy wrasse- possibly Paracheilinus mccoskeri, Cirrhilabrus rubrisquamis, or Paracheilinus octotaenia.
Liopropoma mowbrayi or Liopropoma swalesi

Thoughts?
 
Last edited:
Fish List Revision 80

Fish List Revision 80

Here's my stocking list for my 300 DD (72X36X27) w/75 gallon sump and 30 gallon refugium, all of these fish will be added slowly over time as I only have one twenty gallon to QT with.

Schooling Bannerfish x1-2 (Really want a Moorish Idol, but they're better left to the ocean)

Desjardini Tang x1

Kole Tang x1

Blue Throat Trigger (Male) x1

Snowflake Clowns x2

Watanabei Angelfish (Male) x1 (possibly a pair for the health of the fish)

Coral Beauty/Flame Angelfish x1 (would like to experiment with one of the two and see how it does with my corals)

Copperband Butterfly X1 (Same thing with the corals, definite add in the event of an Aiptasia outbreak

Diamond Goby or similar sand sifter x1

Mandarin Goby x1 (down the road 6-8 months after my tank matures)

A few random wrasses as well, however I don't know much about their compatibility at this point so I'll have to "œdive into the books" before adding any of these to my list. Always open to suggestions though ;)

I would like to add another tang a little ways down the road, but I'm not sure what it'll be or what would work best with this current grouping. I really want a Unicorn Tang and have a larger 600 gallon aquarium to throw him in when he outgrows the 300, but I'm still at odds as to get one or not :(
 
Tank: 65g with 20g sump/refugium, skimmer. Mostly SPS.

Current livestock:
2 x a. ocellaris clownfish
Macropharyngodon negrosensis (juvenile)
Synchiropus picturatus

The two fish above compete for copepods and the tank is marginally sized for copepod eaters

I'd like to add 2-3 more fish to this list. I'm wondering about the following:
Single Pseudanthias bimaculatus
flasher or fairy wrasse- possibly Paracheilinus mccoskeri, Cirrhilabrus rubrisquamis, or Paracheilinus octotaenia. The eight line flasher wrasse is the only aggressive flasher wrasse and I would be concerned adding it to the fish you are considering especially in a smaller tank with a leopard wrasse which does best with peaceful tank mates
Liopropoma mowbrayi or Liopropoma swalesi both are somewhat aggressive and I would be concerned adding either to the existing mix as leopard wrasses tend to like peaceful tank mates.

Thoughts?
 
Here's my stocking list for my 300 DD (72X36X27) w/75 gallon sump and 30 gallon refugium, all of these fish will be added slowly over time as I only have one twenty gallon to QT with.

Schooling Bannerfish x1-2 (Really want a Moorish Idol, but they're better left to the ocean)

Desjardini Tang x1 while your gallonage is fine for this fish, it ultimate length may make your tank appear smallish since it exceeds a foot when mature

Kole Tang x1

Blue Throat Trigger (Male) x1

Snowflake Clowns x2

Watanabei Angelfish (Male) x1 (possibly a pair for the health of the fish) males tend to ship poorly

Coral Beauty/Flame Angelfish x1 (would like to experiment with one of the two and see how it does with my corals) meaty LPS corals are most at risk

Copperband Butterfly X1 (Same thing with the corals, definite add in the event of an Aiptasia outbreak can be risky with corals and especially with clams and may not touch aiptasia; best option is the Australian collected which is more likely to survive

Diamond Goby or similar sand sifter x1

Mandarin Goby x1 (down the road 6-8 months after my tank matures)

A few random wrasses as well, however I don't know much about their compatibility at this point so I'll have to "œdive into the books" before adding any of these to my list. Always open to suggestions though ;)

I would like to add another tang a little ways down the road, but I'm not sure what it'll be or what would work best with this current grouping. I really want a Unicorn Tang and have a larger 600 gallon aquarium to throw him in when he outgrows the 300, but I'm still at odds as to get one or not :(

a unicorn tang is a wonderful fish but I would not even start one in less than a ten foot tank.
 
Ok was thinking about this list for my 225. 55 gal sump w/ refugium. this is just the first run so let me know what is a no no. thanks for the input!

1. Blue Throat Trigger
2. Niger Trigger
3. Mated Clown pair
4. Blue Dot Jawfish or Lawnmower Blenny. I read you cannot have both please advise...
5. Naso Tang
6. Purple/Yellow/Scorpas Tang...one of those not all.
7. Pajama Cardinals or Lyretail Anthias. I want a schooling fish and would like it to be one of these
8. GDM
I also was thinking about a Flame Angel or Coral Beauty but do not want crazy overcrowding and unhappy fish...Let me know what you think..Thank you
 
4. Tusk wrasse - I understand he'd be tough on the snails/shrimp. I'm thinking the tang(s) will keep the algae down. What are odds he'd wipe out the snails eventually?

What are the odds you would consume a freshly made cheeseburger?

=========

I REALLY like hamburgers...I get it. :D
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top