PLEASE check out your intended fish purchases here first!

[308systems]

Hi Steve,
Almost there, thanks for the outstanding insight!

"Two mandarins must be a male plus female or they will fight. The question is difficult because of the nature of your tank. I normally would recommend a 75 gallon with live rock for one, 125 gallons with live rock for two. That is assuming no competition for copepods such as leopard wrasses. Or alternatively, a producing refugium of at least 25 gallons for two in a 75 gallon with live rock. In my case, I have a mated pair in a 350 gallon tank with a 40 gallon refugium. "

We have no leopard wrasses, a 200gal cylindrical tank(no live rock currently, however 2" sand bed and lots of growth space on the central artifical reef material), with a 30gal refugium full of live rock, and a 100gal sump with more live rock. I don't know anything about copepods, however I heard we could add them to the refugium/tank and establish a colony??

Thus, for the Mandarin Dragonets:
1) if we add starter copepods to the refugium, will they sufficiently trickle into the DT to support the Mandarin's without any specific DT changes?
2) do we need to specifically add live rock to the DT, or will the copepods establish on the existing artificial reef surfaces?

 

[RJT]

Social acclimation makes a lot of sense if you want to avoid problems. I have used that for years and many on this board do it. I think bradleyj has a friend who makes them. I got mine off of ebay from a guy who built them to order.

Thank you. My lfs had a few for sale.

 

[snorvich]

Thank you. My lfs had a few for sale.

Definitely worth while purchasing. Best would have sucker cups to attach to the front of the tank. Also should have a top to keep jumpers in, and slits for water circulation. Best to insure that they are eating mysis or equivalent and not being harassed by existing occupants.

 

[snorvich]

Hi Steve,
Almost there, thanks for the outstanding insight!

"Two mandarins must be a male plus female or they will fight. The question is difficult because of the nature of your tank. I normally would recommend a 75 gallon with live rock for one, 125 gallons with live rock for two. That is assuming no competition for copepods such as leopard wrasses. Or alternatively, a producing refugium of at least 25 gallons for two in a 75 gallon with live rock. In my case, I have a mated pair in a 350 gallon tank with a 40 gallon refugium. "

We have no leopard wrasses, a 200gal cylindrical tank(no live rock currently, however 2" sand bed and lots of growth space on the central artifical reef material), with a 30gal refugium full of live rock, and a 100gal sump with more live rock. I don't know anything about copepods, however I heard we could add them to the refugium/tank and establish a colony??

Well, yes and no. Mandarins are accustomed to hunting the sand bed and live rock for copepods so I would suggest live rock in your display tank. Yes, you can seed the live rock in your sump and if you have chaeto in your refugium you should develop a good population of copepods.

Thus, for the Mandarin Dragonets:
1) if we add starter copepods to the refugium, will they sufficiently trickle into the DT to support the Mandarin's without any specific DT changes?

Probably. I have never really tried mandarins except in a true reef aquarium. They are considered difficult fish without live rock, etc, but easy if you have a sufficiently sized reef tank. I do not recommend ORA mandarins, especially in your circumstances

2) do we need to specifically add live rock to the DT, or will the copepods establish on the existing artificial reef surfaces?

I am leery of recommending that they will.

 

[ihavtats29]

i just set up a 120 rr that will be a SPS dominated with clams, possibly some zoas and lps acans, favia , favites . around 10 pep shrimp will be kept these just in case of some aptasia entering the system. equipment wise its currently set up with a single center mounted 400 w halide xm 20 bulb on a hex arc mini reflector , reef keeper jr ph probe and temp probe , will be adding a calcium reactor. there is about 150 lbs of live rock and more waiting to go in the sump about another 50 lbs or so. flow is set on the reef controller running 4) 1400 gph korilias and have a closed loop that i have not put a pump on yet but i am drilled and capped off for right now . im just starting the cycle , fish id like to do as many reef safe wrasses gobys and one or 2 of the smaller spec of tang . please give me your stock list recommendations . clean up crew will be tropheus and ast and nass snails 2 fighting conch a couple brittle stars

 

[ihavtats29]

leopard wrasse are not a option the rarely survive shipping and are too delicate to risk

 

[snorvich]

i just set up a 120 rr that will be a SPS dominated with clams, possibly some zoas and lps acans, favia , favites . around 10 pep shrimp will be kept these just in case of some aptasia entering the system. equipment wise its currently set up with a single center mounted 400 w halide xm 20 bulb on a hex arc mini reflector , reef keeper jr ph probe and temp probe , will be adding a calcium reactor. there is about 150 lbs of live rock and more waiting to go in the sump about another 50 lbs or so. flow is set on the reef controller running 4) 1400 gph korilias and have a closed loop that i have not put a pump on yet but i am drilled and capped off for right now . im just starting the cycle , fish id like to do as many reef safe wrasses gobys and one or 2 of the smaller spec of tang . please give me your stock list recommendations . clean up crew will be tropheus and ast and nass snails 2 fighting conch a couple brittle stars

I do not recommend stock lists but would be very happy to comment on your ideas as far as compatibility with your environment and each other. As to to your second post, I have kept leopard wrasses for years with no real issues. Initial selection and deworming is the key; if you get a healthy one, deworm it and have sand, you cannot ask for a better fish. But the tank should be mature before introduction. I also favor some fairy and flasher wrasses but they have different levels of aggression which I can comment on if you tell me which ones you want.

 

[308systems]

Thanks Steve, do you have a ballpark recommendation for #'s of live rock needed to support enough copepods for 2 Dragonets?

 

[snorvich]

Thanks Steve, do you have a ballpark recommendation for #'s of live rock needed to support enough copepods for 2 Dragonets?

That is difficult. I would "guess" about a 100 lbs total between refugium, sump, tank, but I am really guessing here.

 

[308systems]

Super! We will ensure we have approx. 100#+ of seasoned live rock prior to introducing the Dragonets.

When we start introducing new fish through our new QT system, other than the typical Ich and Fin Rot, are there "typical" diseases should we be looking out for in the following animals?:

New Inverts: (do inverts typically have diseases and need QT?)
Venus Anemone Shrimp
Peppermint Shrimp(2)
Pincushion Urchin, Needle
Blue Tuxedo Urchin
Bumble Bee Snail

New Fish:
Bluehead Fairy Wrasse
Dwarf Flame Angel
Foxface
Kardens Cardinal(2)
Raccoon Butterflyfish
Neon Blue Goby(2)
Tiger Watchman Goby
Mandarin Dragonet(2)

 

[snorvich]

Super! We will ensure we have approx. 100#+ of seasoned live rock prior to introducing the Dragonets.

When we start introducing new fish through our new QT system, other than the typical Ich and Fin Rot, are there "typical" diseases should we be looking out for in the following animals?:

New Inverts: (do inverts typically have diseases and need QT?)

No inverts do not carry disease/parasites that can affect fish
Venus Anemone Shrimp
Peppermint Shrimp(2)
Pincushion Urchin, Needle
Blue Tuxedo Urchin
Bumble Bee Snail

New Fish: Fish can have ich, velvet, or brook. Copper can treat the first two, formalin can treat the third. Read my blog or the stickies in the fish disease forum for details. Mandarins can carry velvet but are effectively immune to ich because of the nature of their slime coat. Butterfly fish and angels are somewhat more highly susceptible to parasites
Bluehead Fairy Wrasse
Dwarf Flame Angel
Foxface
Kardens Cardinal(2)
Raccoon Butterflyfish
Neon Blue Goby(2)
Tiger Watchman Goby
Mandarin Dragonet(2)

 

[308systems]

Amazingly, I have learned more in the last 2 days of emailed messages, than the last 1.5 years of learning the aquarium keeping business.

You are a remarkable resource, and much appreciated!

THANKS!

 

[snorvich]

Amazingly, I have learned more in the last 2 days of emailed messages, than the last 1.5 years of learning the aquarium keeping business.

You are a remarkable resource, and much appreciated!

THANKS!

You are most welcome. Check back if any questions come up.

 

[tangs_tank]

@snorvich

I only have a 20gal QT, what would be the process IF POSSIBLE to put in 2 Tangs, White Tail BristleTooth and Regal Blue Tang for example. Since it is said to put these fish in at the same time for compatibility. DT is 180. Thanks

 

[tangs_tank]

@snorvich

I only have a 20gal QT, what would be the process IF POSSIBLE to put in 2 Tangs, White Tail BristleTooth and Regal Blue Tang for example. Since it is said to put these fish in at the same time for compatibility. DT is 180. Thanks

 

[snorvich]

@snorvich

I only have a 20gal QT, what would be the process IF POSSIBLE to put in 2 Tangs, White Tail BristleTooth and Regal Blue Tang for example. Since it is said to put these fish in at the same time for compatibility. DT is 180. Thanks

A 180 is a six foot tank (if I recall correctly) which is not really enough for a hepatus tang which grows rather quickly. Even if you had a larger tank, I would recommend adding the bristletooth first and the hepatus later. I would not keep both of these in your 20 gallon QT since you should really keep them there for 9 weeks. I applaud your quarantining fish.

 

[cbm369]

Just a quick question Steve,

In general, will damsels reduce themselves down to 1 or 2 like chromis do?

Thinking of doing a smallish species only tank for my kids. I have a few tanks laying around and thought of one with just damsels, (to keep the costs down )


By the way, my new Dispar Anthias have started eating finally. Having the best luck with the Cyclopeeze. Going to try and get some Ova this weekend and see how they like it.

 

[snorvich]

Just a quick question Steve,

In general, will damsels reduce themselves down to 1 or 2 like chromis do?

Not necessarily. Depends on number and tank size.

Thinking of doing a smallish species only tank for my kids. I have a few tanks laying around and thought of one with just damsels, (to keep the costs down )

For a small tank for kids, I would suggest (I hate making suggestions) a tank with a goby pistol shrimp, a pygmy wrasse and one damsel


By the way, my new Dispar Anthias have started eating finally. Having the best luck with the Cyclopeeze.

All anthias seems unable to resist clycoppeeze and nutramar ova. Also masago, (capelin fish roe, which is available at most asia markets), will be appealing to them.

Going to try and get some Ova this weekend and see how they like it.

 

[jws0318]

Hi Steve,

Quick question: is a 4 line wrasse's disposition similar to a 6 line? I have a 30g with a tailspot blenny and a small yellow assessor right now. I would like to add a small wrasse and a flame angel. I'm really trying to find a wrasse that is more in the blue/purple color rather than red or Orange. I assume a mystery wrasse, although gorgeous, needs more than 30g (?) and I don't want a bully like a 6 line, but what about a 4 line wrasse? Are they of the same disposition as the 6 line? Other than the mystery and the 4 line, are there any other options based on color requirement and tank size?

Thanks in advance for your help

 

[jws0318]

Hi Steve,

Quick question: is a 4 line wrasse's disposition similar to a 6 line? I have a 30g with a tailspot blenny and a small yellow assessor right now. I would like to add a small wrasse and a flame angel. I'm really trying to find a wrasse that is more in the blue/purple color rather than red or Orange. I assume a mystery wrasse, although gorgeous, needs more than 30g (?) and I don't want a bully like a 6 line, but what about a 4 line wrasse? Are they of the same disposition as the 6 line? Other than the mystery and the 4 line, are there any other options based on color requirement and tank size?

Thanks in advance for your help