Potassium, Iron & Iodine (K, Fe, I2) Testing/dosing
- Thread starter ptreef
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Don Quixote
New member
Depends on how many water changes you are willing to do. Keeping macros requires Iron supplementation with or without water changes, dosing iodine will get you better coloration and growth from your corals. I don't dose potassium but I'm sure there are others on here who do.
Peter Eichler
New member
There's nothing scientific, nor even good anecdotal evidence to support the need to test for and dose those elements. Fairly regular water changes will take care of supplementing. In the case of iodine just feeding your fish will keep levels high enough.
Allmost
New member
oh there is, growth of corals, bacteria, algae and so on ... will take up elements.
regular tanks, with weekly or bi weekly water changes, do get replenished for those elements.
in ULNS systems, Bacteria use up Iron, hence it might deplete more.
if you use Zeoliths rocks, K+ is reported to be consumed more often.
iodine have to be carefull. it will poison every thing if overdosed.
Peter Eichler
New member
Saying a bunch of things in our tank take up some elements isn't actually support for the need to dose them. I've never heard of a tank being deficient in any of those elements and then showing adverse effects directly attributable to that depletion. Just wild speculation that one of those things may be a problem...
If you're growing massive amounts of algaes perhaps iron supplementation would be worthwhile, but in an average reef none of these are anything to be concerned about. The fact that remains is that there are MANY very successful tanks that don't worry about dosing and supplementing anything other than calcium, alakalinity and magnesium.
Allmost
New member
I respectfully disagree. check out carbon dosing tanks, like Zeovit, and Potassium [K+] depletion
but I agree with you partially, my first sentence was : "regular tanks, with weekly or bi weekly water changes, do get replenished for those elements." which is true most of the times
I dose pottasium and Iron in my SPS tank ... I test it as well of course, and dose when lacking
my weekly water changes are done also. 
trueblackpercula
New member
I respectfully disagree. check out carbon dosing tanks, like Zeovit, and Potassium [K+] depletion
but I agree with you partially, my first sentence was : "regular tanks, with weekly or bi weekly water changes, do get replenished for those elements." which is true most of the times
I dose pottasium and Iron in my SPS tank ... I test it as well of course, and dose when lacking
Stunning tank please lead me to your tank thread.....also can I have your clam? Will send cash
Arkayology
Active member
I disagree. I had a 20h that I could not keep a cleaner shrimp alive past a few months. It would always die around molting. I started adding one drop of iodine to my tank every week or two and I have had the same shrimps for 2 years. These shrimps were all coming from the same source.
Ok, so those of you sounding for these are you actually testing or just saying that it may be beneficial?
Seems like everything else in this hobby.....no one correct way.
I am currently only doing ~10% WC monthly, was only doing 10% every 2-3 mos.
So maybe I could benefit from testing these and dosing if needed. I may go back to longer WC pattern. As I haven't seen really any improvement from increased WC's??
Seems like everything else in this hobby.....no one correct way.
I am currently only doing ~10% WC monthly, was only doing 10% every 2-3 mos.
So maybe I could benefit from testing these and dosing if needed. I may go back to longer WC pattern. As I haven't seen really any improvement from increased WC's??
Allmost
New member
lol thanks guys.
Ptreef ... these elements, except for potassium [New salifert test kit] we cant really test them for sure, so testing is much harder than KH and CA++.
I go based on colours of Corals and their health. it takes some time to learn, but once you do, everything becomes easier. you no longer would need to test for CA++ or KH neither.
for example ... when K+ is lacking, you will notice dull color on orange corals, specially monti caps, less PE on most corals, pocilopora looks like it was just touched [retracted PE] and stylopora might even show tissue recession. if you see these, you lack K+.
Iron .... your green corals are the sign, if the green fades, you lack iron. if you dose it and your Yellow SPS turn green, you have overdosed. if algae blooms, you overdosed yesterday. lol
Iodine ... thats the last supplement for me ... I personally Believe it helps with purple and blues. I rarely use it though, as my blues are usually top notch. maybe once a month I add a drop.
Randy explains Here about how water changes effect elements. again, Except K+ which is one of the main elements of seawater like calcium, others like iron and iodine are trace elements, present at very low concentration.
HTH,
Edit : I should add, the above is only true, if the system is stable and most parameters are in line and ... for example if your monti cap is turning white, cause salinity is super high, then doesnt matter how much K+ you dose, it wont bring it back ... just thought Id add this disclaimer lol
Ptreef ... these elements, except for potassium [New salifert test kit] we cant really test them for sure, so testing is much harder than KH and CA++.
I go based on colours of Corals and their health. it takes some time to learn, but once you do, everything becomes easier. you no longer would need to test for CA++ or KH neither.
for example ... when K+ is lacking, you will notice dull color on orange corals, specially monti caps, less PE on most corals, pocilopora looks like it was just touched [retracted PE] and stylopora might even show tissue recession. if you see these, you lack K+.
Iron .... your green corals are the sign, if the green fades, you lack iron. if you dose it and your Yellow SPS turn green, you have overdosed. if algae blooms, you overdosed yesterday. lol
Iodine ... thats the last supplement for me ... I personally Believe it helps with purple and blues. I rarely use it though, as my blues are usually top notch. maybe once a month I add a drop.
Randy explains Here about how water changes effect elements. again, Except K+ which is one of the main elements of seawater like calcium, others like iron and iodine are trace elements, present at very low concentration.
HTH,
Edit : I should add, the above is only true, if the system is stable and most parameters are in line and ... for example if your monti cap is turning white, cause salinity is super high, then doesnt matter how much K+ you dose, it wont bring it back ... just thought Id add this disclaimer lol
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Touring
New member
Thanks for that.... i guess ill be ordering more test kits....... :uhoh3:
Acronic
The Fifth Master
haha nice disclaimer Allmost.
I agree that observation is the best "test" for the elements in question. I do use the potassium kit from salifert and think it works quite well. I notice pale colours overall when K is under 300. (That said it could be a million and one reasons why colours are pale) The iodine/iodide test is garbage IMO. I do however dose lugols blind twice a week in very small amounts just for the sake of it. Cant tell if it is beneficial, its just part of the routine.
There was a thread about colours and the elements that affect them a while back. A good read if you can find it.
I agree that observation is the best "test" for the elements in question. I do use the potassium kit from salifert and think it works quite well. I notice pale colours overall when K is under 300. (That said it could be a million and one reasons why colours are pale) The iodine/iodide test is garbage IMO. I do however dose lugols blind twice a week in very small amounts just for the sake of it. Cant tell if it is beneficial, its just part of the routine.
There was a thread about colours and the elements that affect them a while back. A good read if you can find it.
I too have been blindly dosing a few drops of iodine or lugols.
Based on the "Color of Corals Guide" i would say in general these chems are atleast in line in my system:
Here is an synopsis I found and saved that some one posted somewhere. This may be what your referring to Acronic:
Yellows
Highly dependent on Nitrate and PO4 levels. Of course all SPS colors are highly dependent on lack of N and P so I wanted to start with probably the easiest color to get, yellow. Yellows are sort of you baseline; yellows will tell you a lot about what is going on in your tank, what is needed and what is overdosed. Nitrate and/or PO4 reduction is most important, either through technical means such as nitrate/phosphate reducers or biologically through DSB, Carbon dosing and/or water changes and fuges. Basically, if you want to do SPS, I would suggest starting with an acropora that is yellow. If you can get it to say yellow for several months, you should be ready for something else.
Greens
Greens would be the next easiest color to tweak. Most green coloration can be achieved through the addition of an Iron Concentrate (Kents is what I use, however Iron is Iron). You must be very careful with Iron because it is also an Algae accelerator; this is why it is so important for you to get your yellows colors first (your N and P will be lowered). Additionally, I use my yellows as indicators for my greens and blues. You’ll notice a deficiancy if your greens are brown color or they are paling in color. I start off by dosing Iron at about 1 drop per 50 usg twice a week and take note of what happens, color changes, Algae growth, until my yellow acroporas display a green shimmer (it won’t be a solid green but a shimmer of a green/yellow). Please note, a sign of overdosing is a darkening of tissue, when this happens you have added too much iron or too much iron is being added. Another sign of overdosing is Algae growth, stop immediately and possibly do a water change if necessary. Like everything else reef, go slowly.
Blues and some purples
This is mainly for blues but I have found is can also have an effect on purples. The supplement for this is Potassium Iodide Concentrate or Lugol’s solution, ESV Potassium Iodide Concentrate will also work; don’t just get something that says Potassium because that is a little different. Dosing should be done when blue colors become less intense. Again, using yellow corals as indicators, stop dosing when yellow corals display a green shimmer.
Reds/Pinks and some Purples
Primarily for coloring reds and pinks in Montiporas, Pocilloporas, Birdsnest, other Stys and Seriatoporas. The supplement is Potassium (not potassium iodide). If you are using a high potassium salt mix such as Oceanic, Tropical Marine Pro and you are doing regular water changes, you are more than likely not going to need to supplement this much. For dosing you can use your monitporas, especially caps as indicators. Supplementing is required when Montiporas display slower growth and appear washed out to grey appearance. Indicators on Stys and Pocs are when they look like they have been exposed to air. Polyps are completely withdrawn and colors are light. Other indicators of potassium deficiency is when the pinks turn into a light brown and when acroporas loose their color and get lighter and pale. A major potassium deficiency is seen when tissue is lost, mostly starting from the base opposed to spotting (patchy look). And overdose can lead to tip burning so don’t mistake tip burn for new growth. Tips burns will be white with no polyps.
Purples
Probably one of the hardest coloration of all acroporas from my experience since it is a combination of several variables.
First and foremost is water clarity, which means Carbon and/or filter socks. I have also had good result from biological filters such as using cryptic zones, which produce seasquirts, sponges and other filter feeding animals. Zeo Sponge Power, which can be used in any system, feeds sponges. Sponges are great because they can filter a mass amount of water for better water clarity. From what I have noted, increased water clarify will first effect SPS tips but not the complete base. I have seen nana and valida with really nice purple tips but brown/tan/white bases. I have seen the same nana and valida in another’s tanks, which met all other parameters with a full purple from base to tip.
Second being lighting. From my observations of my own tank and others, purples seem to love 420-440nm range light spectrum, those found in actinics and 20K halides. Some of the best purples I have seen are in tanks that have 440nm blue actinics (ATI Blue+, Giessman Actinic) or 20K Halides (Radium, XM 20K).
Third, supplements such as Iodide and Potassium (see blues and Reds/Pinks). Again, make sure your greens are green and yellows are yellow. Your blue should be bright with depth. Iodide will also help if you have tip burn.
These are just my observations through testing and I am sure in the future other factors will be seen and added. Please feel free to comment with your own observations, data is very important to moving forward.
Based on the "Color of Corals Guide" i would say in general these chems are atleast in line in my system:
Here is an synopsis I found and saved that some one posted somewhere. This may be what your referring to Acronic:
Yellows
Highly dependent on Nitrate and PO4 levels. Of course all SPS colors are highly dependent on lack of N and P so I wanted to start with probably the easiest color to get, yellow. Yellows are sort of you baseline; yellows will tell you a lot about what is going on in your tank, what is needed and what is overdosed. Nitrate and/or PO4 reduction is most important, either through technical means such as nitrate/phosphate reducers or biologically through DSB, Carbon dosing and/or water changes and fuges. Basically, if you want to do SPS, I would suggest starting with an acropora that is yellow. If you can get it to say yellow for several months, you should be ready for something else.
Greens
Greens would be the next easiest color to tweak. Most green coloration can be achieved through the addition of an Iron Concentrate (Kents is what I use, however Iron is Iron). You must be very careful with Iron because it is also an Algae accelerator; this is why it is so important for you to get your yellows colors first (your N and P will be lowered). Additionally, I use my yellows as indicators for my greens and blues. You’ll notice a deficiancy if your greens are brown color or they are paling in color. I start off by dosing Iron at about 1 drop per 50 usg twice a week and take note of what happens, color changes, Algae growth, until my yellow acroporas display a green shimmer (it won’t be a solid green but a shimmer of a green/yellow). Please note, a sign of overdosing is a darkening of tissue, when this happens you have added too much iron or too much iron is being added. Another sign of overdosing is Algae growth, stop immediately and possibly do a water change if necessary. Like everything else reef, go slowly.
Blues and some purples
This is mainly for blues but I have found is can also have an effect on purples. The supplement for this is Potassium Iodide Concentrate or Lugol’s solution, ESV Potassium Iodide Concentrate will also work; don’t just get something that says Potassium because that is a little different. Dosing should be done when blue colors become less intense. Again, using yellow corals as indicators, stop dosing when yellow corals display a green shimmer.
Reds/Pinks and some Purples
Primarily for coloring reds and pinks in Montiporas, Pocilloporas, Birdsnest, other Stys and Seriatoporas. The supplement is Potassium (not potassium iodide). If you are using a high potassium salt mix such as Oceanic, Tropical Marine Pro and you are doing regular water changes, you are more than likely not going to need to supplement this much. For dosing you can use your monitporas, especially caps as indicators. Supplementing is required when Montiporas display slower growth and appear washed out to grey appearance. Indicators on Stys and Pocs are when they look like they have been exposed to air. Polyps are completely withdrawn and colors are light. Other indicators of potassium deficiency is when the pinks turn into a light brown and when acroporas loose their color and get lighter and pale. A major potassium deficiency is seen when tissue is lost, mostly starting from the base opposed to spotting (patchy look). And overdose can lead to tip burning so don’t mistake tip burn for new growth. Tips burns will be white with no polyps.
Purples
Probably one of the hardest coloration of all acroporas from my experience since it is a combination of several variables.
First and foremost is water clarity, which means Carbon and/or filter socks. I have also had good result from biological filters such as using cryptic zones, which produce seasquirts, sponges and other filter feeding animals. Zeo Sponge Power, which can be used in any system, feeds sponges. Sponges are great because they can filter a mass amount of water for better water clarity. From what I have noted, increased water clarify will first effect SPS tips but not the complete base. I have seen nana and valida with really nice purple tips but brown/tan/white bases. I have seen the same nana and valida in another’s tanks, which met all other parameters with a full purple from base to tip.
Second being lighting. From my observations of my own tank and others, purples seem to love 420-440nm range light spectrum, those found in actinics and 20K halides. Some of the best purples I have seen are in tanks that have 440nm blue actinics (ATI Blue+, Giessman Actinic) or 20K Halides (Radium, XM 20K).
Third, supplements such as Iodide and Potassium (see blues and Reds/Pinks). Again, make sure your greens are green and yellows are yellow. Your blue should be bright with depth. Iodide will also help if you have tip burn.
These are just my observations through testing and I am sure in the future other factors will be seen and added. Please feel free to comment with your own observations, data is very important to moving forward.
jroovers
New member
There are numerous TOTMs who have unreal corals and colours that don't test for these elements. I know dvanacker (December 2012 TOTM, almost all SPS) doesn't test for these elements, and no one would challenge him for not doing so. He uses IO salt. I don't think he doses anything other than Alk, Ca and Mg, does water changes and feeds his tank/fish. Can you see some benefits for testing for these elements? Maybe. Is it necessary to test for these things to have a healthy, thriving, colourful, TOTM worthy system? No.
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