Prisitine plumbing thread!

[Fishcrazy06]

I've cleaned up some things since these pics but I like the way mine has turned out so far.

Is your Manifold running off of the drain line? Or am I looking at it wrong?

 

[das75]

excellent topic

 

[aoc230]

that coast to coast overflow is sick!!! how does it drain from the tank to the overflow section?

Well, better late than never

 

[noobtothereef]

In terms of head pressure, two 45's is exactly the same as a 90. On a drain line, 45's will cause less turbulence than a 90 will.

Jim

2-45's are NOT the same as 1-90, its simple physics.............

 

[uncleof6]

2-45's are NOT the same as 1-90, its simple physics.............

Friction loss:

1 - 1.5" 90 = 4 equivalent feet of straight pipe.
1 - 1.5" 45 = 2 equivalent feet of straight pipe.

2 - 45's = 4 equivalent feet of straight pipe.

 

[Spssteven]

Looks the same haha

 

[10001110101]

Alright...here's a little one (800g)

i like this!

looks like a circuitboard.

 

[Rhodes19]

Why does everyone use 90 degree fittings instead of two 45's? Wouldn't it cut down on the head pressure? The difference in space used is negligible. Is it the cost?

In my case, lack of space. I used 90 deg to make turns in tight places where if I use 2 45 deg, I would run out of room to make the turn.

 

[Rhodes19]

In terms of head pressure, two 45's is exactly the same as a 90. On a drain line, 45's will cause less turbulence than a 90 will.

Jim

Hi Jim,

As far as turbulence goes, would going from a 1" bulkhead (drain)/1" pvc to a 1 1/2" or 2" drain to the sump help reduce turbulence? My 180 has 1" bulkheads and I'm running 1" pvc with 45 deg bends to the sump and it is louder than I expected. Would opening the 1" pvc to a bigger diameter help reduce the turbulence and noise? Thanks.

Chris

 

[ChknWing]

Rhodes,
is it loud at the overflow/drain... or is the water running throught the tubing actually loud? What kind of overflow and drain setup are you running, Durso, Bean anmial, etc?
I would bet it is your drain intake that is loud not the plumbing

 

[Rhodes19]

Rhodes,
is it loud at the overflow/drain... or is the water running throught the tubing actually loud? What kind of overflow and drain setup are you running, Durso, Bean anmial, etc?
I would bet it is your drain intake that is loud not the plumbing

Hi ChknWing,

Its loud in the sump where the drains empty. The drain line and overflow box/stand pipes are actually quiet. The tank was predrilled with 2 corner overflows. There is no noise in the overflows except for the occasional sound of sucking air in the air tube that goes into the stand pipe. I used Durso initially and am now using stand pipes that Frankie gave me. Its an end cap with holes on the underside on top of the stand pipe but there is no difference in the sound between it and the Duros.

Here is where the noise is at. Bubbling sound I think best describes it. I have put filter socks on them and that has reduced the noise some what but it still is loud and irritates my wife.

If its the intake, what can I do to rectify it? Thanks.

 

[uncleof6]

The flow rate is too high for the air/water mix standpipe. You can put band aids such as socks etc in the sump, etc. But the problem is in the stand pipe. The air and water are mixing rather than being laminar (water clinging to the walls of the pipe, with water in the middle.) The cure is to lower the flow rate, use much larger pipe size, or somehow convert to full siphon.

Jim

 

[Rhodes19]

The flow rate is too high for the air/water mix standpipe. You can put band aids such as socks etc in the sump, etc. But the problem is in the stand pipe. The air and water are mixing rather than being laminar (water clinging to the walls of the pipe, with water in the middle.) The cure is to lower the flow rate, use much larger pipe size, or somehow convert to full siphon.

Jim

Hi Jim,

Thanks. Do you think using a 1 1/2"-2" stand pipe, tapering it down to 1" to fit the bulkhead and then open it back up to 1 1/2"-2" pipe would work or would I have the same problem with the short 1" length being the choke point? For full siphon, is there a good HOB design I could do? I like BeanAnimal's system but the tank is in place and I'm not sure if the sides are tempered or not or if I could drill it while its set up. Is that doable?

Chris

 

[uncleof6]

Hi Jim,

Thanks. Do you think using a 1 1/2"-2" stand pipe, tapering it down to 1" to fit the bulkhead and then open it back up to 1 1/2"-2" pipe would work or would I have the same problem with the short 1" length being the choke point? For full siphon, is there a good HOB design I could do? I like BeanAnimal's system but the tank is in place and I'm not sure if the sides are tempered or not or if I could drill it while its set up. Is that doable?

Chris

Reducing to 1", will cause some turbulence and enhance the air/water mixing. 1.5" all the way, would work better, but that means opening up the bulkhead hole That is not a good idea, with the tank running, even if the bottom is not tempered. I don't recommend drilling the back with the tank running, although I have done it, and a couple other brave souls have also.

Anecdote follows:

I am not certain of HOB overflows. On the surface it seems that it should work fine. I have seen one problem recently, where the flow rate was fine for the drain line, but was too much for the overflow itself. It is a question of getting enough linear length for the weir, and then the pipes up over the back, large enough and plentiful enough to supply your drain system in the external box.

The design would be similar to the internal/external coast to coast that is up in a couple places, however it uses holes in the back of the tank, instead of pipes up over the back. With some patience I think it could be made to work. The HOB overflow has been around a long time. It is just getting the flow rate you want out of it.

Jim

 

[Rhodes19]

Reducing to 1", will cause some turbulence and enhance the air/water mixing. 1.5" all the way, would work better, but that means opening up the bulkhead hole That is not a good idea, with the tank running, even if the bottom is not tempered. I don't recommend drilling the back with the tank running, although I have done it, and a couple other brave souls have also.

Anecdote follows:

I am not certain of HOB overflows. On the surface it seems that it should work fine. I have seen one problem recently, where the flow rate was fine for the drain line, but was too much for the overflow itself. It is a question of getting enough linear length for the weir, and then the pipes up over the back, large enough and plentiful enough to supply your drain system in the external box.

The design would be similar to the internal/external coast to coast that is up in a couple places, however it uses holes in the back of the tank, instead of pipes up over the back. With some patience I think it could be made to work. The HOB overflow has been around a long time. It is just getting the flow rate you want out of it.

Jim

Thanks Jim, I appreciate it. I agree with you about not drilling the bottom of the tank and I don't think I am advanced enough (too chicken ) to drill the back at this stage. I think what I will try to do first is to replace the 1" pvc with 1 1/2" pvc and see it that helps. I'll try to keep the 1" pvc attached to the bulkhead short as possible. If that don't work, then I'll try adding a HOB overflow in addition to the 2 standpipes/drain lines I already have in place. As a last resort, I'll just have to back the pump down (I have it set up so I can divert flow back into the sump).

Chris

 

[FFrankie]

Chris, If you join the two out going lines together in a "T", add a gate out of that and extend the line a few inches under the water, back it off a bit until the drain pipes fill up and you should hear zero noise.

 

[Rhodes19]

Chris, If you join the two out going lines together in a "T", add a gate out of that and extend the line a few inches under the water, back it off a bit until the drain pipes fill up and you should hear zero noise.

Hi Frankie,

I was just thinking about that over the weekend. I found a thread talking about that. It might be my best option with my current set up. I'll have to collect the parts an play with it.

 

[evsalty]

Not a huge setup and I still need to get my drains better, as well as installing T5HO's for the mangroves and build more rows for the free leaning mangroves. But here goes.

From the pump flex tubing to prevent added vibration.

At the tee - to the left goes to the middle of the stand then goes straight up to top of tank. To the right goes to 4 way.

From 4-way - to the right is thru unioon ball valve then on to water change output. To the left (upper 1/2" line) splits after union ball valve and feed the rear mangrove tank and feeds the BRS gfo reactor (not pictured) over on the other side of the stand. The bottom of the 4-way feeds the bottom 1/2" line and feeds my frag tank on the far other side of my DT. That line has the open union ball valve shown in the second pic then further down the line goes to another union and then to flew tubing to the frag tank then on thru a gat valve and yet another ball valve directly before the bulkhead into the frag tank (for ease of turning off the tank).


<a href="http://s662.photobucket.com/albums/uu343/evsalty/?action=view&current=CIMG1020.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i662.photobucket.com/albums/uu343/evsalty/CIMG1020.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

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[noobtothereef]

I've cleaned up some things since these pics but I like the way mine has turned out so far.

Is your Manifold running off of the drain line? Or am I looking at it wrong?

it looks like his pump is mounted remotely and that is the return line going to the manifold and down to the overflow area to bleed of unante flow with that valve at the end

 

[kc350twin]

Oh Man!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Nice thread....................

I really hope I can make my plumbing half as clean as these.

I am building a 112g tank. I have a 1.5" drain and a 3/4" return. I know it's over kill but should I stay all 1.5" drain plumbing? I like my tanks and drains quiet. I will be running about 500gph through the sump.

Thanks for any input and keep the photos coming. They are great inspiration. I will post when I plumb mine.

Kc3