Protocol for using antibiotics to treat infected anemones ~Added to 7/30/14

[Daisybee81]

I have just taken a nem I bought last week from my DT as it spent more time deflated than inflated.

I placed it in the DT tank 2 hours ago and it loooks much much worse

is that normal? I'm worried I'm killing it

 

[Daisybee81]

This is it now

 

[sumtingwity]

thanks

 

[mandarin417]

I removed two ill gigs from the DT that also has bubble tips in it. They are being treated separately. After the 10 day treatment and if they look healthy, is there any other protocol I should use when returning to the display tank? If a gig was sick originally in the display tank, treated and then put back in the original DT, is it likely to get reinfected?

 

[OrionN]

If you have a well run tank, I would consider 1 week to be adequate for the amount of pathogen to be low enough to be acceptable for healthy anemone. Of course if you have an injured or sick anemone then just the normal bacterial flora can cause a problem.

As long as you consider the anemone is fine then it is OK to put him back to DT.

 

[Kinetic]

How are you able to achieve 100% water changes daily (and more than daily when there's discharge)?

Do you just totally drain the tank and then fill it back up with new RO/DI salt mix? Would that be stressful on the fish?

I'm considering getting something like a cooler or tub that has a spigot at the bottom. Protect the spigot area with eggcrate and use that to dump the water out completely.

Then with the new water pre-mixed and heated, slowly add it back in. But the nem would be exposed for that time. I'm guessing it should be OK?

 

[OrionN]

Well dissolved, heated and aerated water should not stress the anemone. Need to match the salinity and temp. Chemistry would be essentially the same since you use the same water source. This is if you use newly mixed water.
I use water from my DT to do water change and the newly mixed water go into the DT.

 

[Kinetic]

Well dissolved, heated and aerated water should not stress the anemone. Need to match the salinity and temp. Chemistry would be essentially the same since you use the same water source. This is if you use newly mixed water.
I use water from my DT to do water change and the newly mixed water go into the DT.

oh that makes sense. So pull water from DT for the treatment tank's water.

My other question was how do you remove 100% water from the treatment tank? Do you just siphon all of it out, leaving the anemone exposed out of water for a few seconds?

 

[OrionN]

I often move the anemone to a temp container, change the water then put him back. I almost always have anemone attach to a cup or something small

 

[Kinetic]

I often move the anemone to a temp container, change the water then put him back. I almost always have anemone attach to a cup or something small

That makes sense. So basically he'll still be somewhat submerged in a small container and easily lifted out?

 

[D-Nak]

I've treated both gigantea and magnifica many times and I just completely drain the tank with the nem inside. In the wild, during low tide, they are sometimes completely exposed to air, and are even in positions where they are hanging off of rocks.

It's important to remove as much water as possible to minimize the pathogen that's causing the infection.

I typically use freshly made salt water for my water changes. My main tank has gigantea in them and I prefer to use water that isn't exposed to any type of chemical allelopathy. It's likely that there isn't anything in the water to affect a sick nem, but I always try to remove any possible contaminant.

 

[Kinetic]

I've treated both gigantea and magnifica many times and I just completely drain the tank with the nem inside. In the wild, during low tide, they are sometimes completely exposed to air, and are even in positions where they are hanging off of rocks.

It's important to remove as much water as possible to minimize the pathogen that's causing the infection.

Good to know. I'll just drain all of it with a siphon!

 

[Kinetic]

I'm starting to plan a treatment tank for a H. Magnifica.

- Two 18 gallon tubs
- One basic T5 light
- 75 watt heaters, one in each tub (79* F)
- Probably 2x Hydor Koralia Nano (240gph), one in each tub
- Eggcrate to keep the powerhead from blending...

Plan:
1. I will always have the second tub ready with new salt water mixed (maybe just from my display tank, giving my display a bunch of nice water changes).
2. Every day: move the nem to new tub. move the light over too (probably will only have one) clean and restore old tub with new water.
3. Discharge during day: move the nem earlier than 24 hours, and restore old tub
4. Every day: dose cipro with the dosing guidelines

Do you think this is adequate?

I probably won't start treatment on the nem unless the OrionN score on it is bad after the first 8 hours of putting it in the treatment tank. But I'll add it to the treatment tank when I bring it home and monitor before deciding if it goes into the DT or not.

Questions:
1. Will rubbermaid roughneck tubs be OK for the job?
2. How should I work the lighting schedule? The guide says to acclimate to the light over 12 hours, but then turn it off if you're treating with cipro?

 

[Rispa]

This is great info!

 

[OrionN]

I'm starting to plan a treatment tank for a H. Magnifica.

- Two 18 gallon tubs
- One basic T5 light
- 75 watt heaters, one in each tub (79* F)
- Probably 2x Hydor Koralia Nano (240gph), one in each tub
- Eggcrate to keep the powerhead from blending...

Plan:
1. I will always have the second tub ready with new salt water mixed (maybe just from my display tank, giving my display a bunch of nice water changes).
2. Every day: move the nem to new tub. move the light over too (probably will only have one) clean and restore old tub with new water.
3. Discharge during day: move the nem earlier than 24 hours, and restore old tub
4. Every day: dose cipro with the dosing guidelines

Do you think this is adequate?

I probably won't start treatment on the nem unless the OrionN score on it is bad after the first 8 hours of putting it in the treatment tank. But I'll add it to the treatment tank when I bring it home and monitor before deciding if it goes into the DT or not.

Questions:
1. Will rubbermaid roughneck tubs be OK for the job?
2. How should I work the lighting schedule? The guide says to acclimate to the light over 12 hours, but then turn it off if you're treating with cipro?

How did this anemone fares? Rubber maid tub is fine, but Petco have 1 dollar per gal sale often. I have several 10 gal tanks to use just for this

 

[Chad_P]

How does Cefdinir compare to Cipro? Think I have a sick anemone taking a dive and worried I can't get Cipro sooner than a couple of days. I have Cefdinir from a prescription for my sons ear infection (he never took it, dr prescribed in case he got an infection).


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[Chad_P]

When do you know to stop treatment? My haddonni seems to have better body control, haven't seen it deflate, but it still seems to be expelling brown pellets. Seems to be less each day but mouth is still open and anemone doesn't feel as sticky.

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[OrionN]

You need to give them good care and good water. If you can do it in QT then it really does not mater how long they are in there. Expelled zoos is really a sign of stress, not necessary infection. As long as they don't deflate for at least 3 days, and I have treated them for at least 7 days, I have good luck with them do well. I usually have my QT in optimal condition, with circulation just about right. Very good stable water condition and great light, stable temp so I can leave my anemone in it for a long time.

 

[Chad_P]

You need to give them good care and good water. If you can do it in QT then it really does not mater how long they are in there. Expelled zoos is really a sign of stress, not necessary infection. As long as they don't deflate for at least 3 days, and I have treated them for at least 7 days, I have good luck with them do well. I usually have my QT in optimal condition, with circulation just about right. Very good stable water condition and great light, stable temp so I can leave my anemone in it for a long time.

Thanks! That's helpful. I'm using water from my display so I know the water is ideal parameters and I'm using an MP10 turned down to circulate. Also have a heater in there and a 140 watt LED a few feet above for the lighting period. So I think I'm giving him good conditions but apparently not if he's still expelling zoos. Not sure what else I need to do.

I'll keep on treating through the 7 days and as long as no deflating I'll let him back in DT. I only saw him deflate once prior to treatment but the loose mouth made it seem enough to treat. Is it a concern that he doesn't seem as sticky?


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[Chad_P]

You need to give them good care and good water. If you can do it in QT then it really does not mater how long they are in there. Expelled zoos is really a sign of stress, not necessary infection. As long as they don't deflate for at least 3 days, and I have treated them for at least 7 days, I have good luck with them do well. I usually have my QT in optimal condition, with circulation just about right. Very good stable water condition and great light, stable temp so I can leave my anemone in it for a long time.

Sorry for all the questions but What are your thoughts then regarding the mouth being open?

First pic is while still in treatment, second pic was while in DT before I pulled out to QT. It looked like that a little bit tonight, even after 4 nights of Cipro treatment.


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